View Full Version : Kennedy exhaust install is done!!!
Finished the install this morning.It sure has a nice tone,not to loud but a powerful sound.Only driven it around today about 10 miles but sure do like it.
Turbo spools up quicker and the truck feels much more responsive.
I'm hoping for a little mileage increase as well since I've been averaging 12 to 12.5 mpg.I only live 7 miles from my business and high idle every morning for 5 to 10 minutes.Speed to and from 25 to 35 mph.What do ya think? Blake
Oongawah
01-02-2003, 01:59
When I did my first test drive after installing mine, I got sideways on dry pavement when making a fast left. Took me by surprise. Do you notice the torque increase or what?
polaris800
01-02-2003, 07:57
Why would you take your new stainless steel exhaust off and put an after market one on. I would really like to see a dyno test to show what if any increase this change does. I called Edge and they told me it does nothing but cost extra money. EGT's I know is a concern but I have yet to see a major change in temps with any ones exhaust change... It sounds like a lot of work and an extra cost for so little
Seems to me I read where JK posted that the Duramax exhaust isn't actually stainless...don't quote me on this I do read a lot... smile.gif . I've also read where others have posted a nice increase in the pulling power seat of the pants feeling after the new exhaust install. Then again after spending that type of money it could be mind over matter.
That "seat of the pants" feeling is exactly that.... it's the acceleration improvement that results from less weight..... in your wallet ;)
The stock exhaust is 409 stainless steel. I've researched this type and found it barely qualifies as stainless, especially in automotive exhaust applications. We all expect stainless to last forever but in reality it all depends on the formulation. I believe chrome is the key ingredient that gives stainless it's corrosion resistance. But with a lot of chrome, it becomes expensive to produce and manufacture. 409 is a compromise.
If and when I do upgrade my exhaust... I like the idea of the 5" full tailpipe. Kennedy is my choice.
[ 01-02-2003: Message edited by: hoot ]</p>
Silver Bullet
01-02-2003, 09:16
Is there anything to be aware of on the install? Any tricks or gotchas?
That "seat of the pants" feeling is exactly that.... it's the acceleration improvement that results from less weight..... in your wallet ;)
LMAO
DMax_Doug
01-02-2003, 11:11
NWDmax (or others w/KD 4" exhaust)
From looking at the pics on JD's website, it looks like the path of the new pipe is within 1-2 inches of the stock spare tire. Would this create a problem if you had a 33" spare tire?
SoMnDMAX
01-02-2003, 12:26
Dmax Doug, a 285 spare will fit with 1-1.5" room to spare, even on a short box pickup. When we set up this exhaust that was a major concern.
Hoot, gas powered GM vehicles get the 409 stainless exhaust up to the muffler. The stock diesel exhaust looks like and acts like aluminized mild steel tubing when it's cut and welded. 409 "works" differently than the MS tubing, but only a metal analysis (spectrography??) would tell us exactly what we've got.
IMHO, the diesel stainless exhaust is just like our "platinum tip spark plugs" that are OEM installed. Just a blanket statement on the window sticker applied to all trucks.
[ 01-02-2003: Message edited by: SoMnDMAX ]</p>
polaris800
01-02-2003, 12:50
Maybe you feel that it's faster because you are that much lighter in cash that was in your pocket. My thoughts are very clear.. show me DYNO testing to prove that you get a better power curve or a gain in horsepower. Also provide a report on egt's from stock exhaust settings to aftermarket settings and see for yourself if you really gain ANYTHING from the changes. I just dont want to put a new item on to have very little to no benifit to us.
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Hoot, gas powered GM vehicles get the 409 stainless exhaust up to the muffler. The stock diesel exhaust looks like and acts like aluminized mild steel tubing when it's cut and welded. 409 "works" differently than the MS tubing, but only a metal analysis (spectrography??) would tell us exactly what we've got.
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Well it's not aluminized for sure but it doesn't rust like plain mild steel. When I had mine straight piped there was a big difference between the stock steel and the aluminized piece we welded in. I believe our diesels are 409 SS except for the muffler which is aluminized and the pieces at the manifolds which I think are 304 SS.
I could be wrong but that's what it looks like to me.
SoCalDMAX
01-02-2003, 13:04
polaris800,
I think John Kennedy has always been very clear about what an upgraded exhaust will or won't do. IIRC, it basically will not net you any power gains, but is one of the fundamental building blocks which helps control EGTs when the motor gets modified.
If one were to try to generate 400rwhp (easy to do with just a screwdriver and adjustable wrench), EGTs would go up drastically with a stock exhaust. A larger, free flowing exhaust would help the other modifications to generate more usable power while keeping EGTs lower than if using the stock exhaust.
I've not seen dyno sheets or actual before/after EGT comparisons on a modified engine, probably since most people change their exhaust before or in conjuction with adding more fuel. This is pretty much standard accepted results from all of the Ford and Dodge tuners as well.
Besides, imagine the look on a RiCeB0y's face as he's sitting at a light, looking eye-level at a 5" PIPE (not a fart can with a megaphone tip). It's just priceless! :D
Regards, Steve
Ditto what SoCal said.
Performance increases are sometimes difficult to measure on the dyno because they cannot simulate on the road testing.
The turbo does spool up quicker(more responsive)and my egt's will drop some which is a good thing.
I like my trucks to sound good as well and this exhaust sounds great.That alone is worth the money I've spent on the exhaust.
My truck is one of my hobbies and if you think its a good investment in fun it is.From a strictly money point of view it isn't.Its like trying to explain to my wife why I get so much satisfaction making improvements and upgrades.She doesn't get it and probably never will.
Engines are nothing more than an air pump and anything you can do on the intake or exhaust side to allow the air to move more easily will result in an improvement.Yes its sometimes difficult to measure but its the cumulative effect of the whole system that we are after.
Air box mod is next(you ought to like that Polaris800 since it doesn't cost anything lol)JK has given me some advice where the openings should be.I'll let you know how it turns out.
Silverbullet:The only prob I had with the install is the location of the rear pipe hanger.It runs into my sway bar vertical support.I'm going to relocate that hanger a couple of inches to the rear and reinstall the support.No big deal at all.
I'm very happy with the fit and finish and highly recommend John Kennedy and his products.
Blake smile.gif
Polaris800 said:
"Why would you take your new stainless steel exhaust off and put an after market one on." tongue.gif tongue.gif
I'm of the opinion that there are many OEM components that come installed on autos and trucks that can be improved upon. One of them is the exhaust system. Shall I go on??????????
Silver Bullett:
I'll be at the gathering on the 25th and you can see and I'll discuss with you first hand, the installation of the Kennedy exhaust. :D :D
I agree with most that it sounds great and runs better, but I too had a problem removing that stainless system. I had a dynomax pref core muffler welded in place of the old oem muffler. Great sound, better breathing, etc. Bought the muffler on e-bay for 20.00 bucks. Dont get me wrong I want a 5 inch system and will get one some day (for those macho diesel truck looks and egt's) but for now egt's are fine and I think I am breathing easy. Not sure on the techno garb ref 3.5, 4, and 5 inch exhaust capabilities but would like to know. Anyone?
just my .02 worth
chuntag95
01-02-2003, 16:36
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My truck is one of my hobbies and if you think its a good investment in fun it is.From a strictly money point of view it isn't.Its like trying to explain to my wife why I get so much satisfaction making improvements and upgrades.She doesn't get it and probably never will.
----------------------------------------------
AMEN BROTHER!! :D
I think Silver Bullet is coming over to the house on Saturday to help me install mine.
As far as diameter, remember it is a sqare function. For a 2 inch to 3 inch diamter change, you get 2.25 times the area for flow. The heat has to go somewhere and out is the best place. I think that the throtle response and lower EGT is what you get. I think JK said he dyno'd it and said there is very little if any HP or torque increase. Better response from the turbo is the most consistance and liked part of this mod along with the better sound. I used the response and the fact my father-in-law talked to someone who had done it to win her over. Hard to argue with Daddy. ;)
The DMax exhaust pipe connects in such a manner that there is a bottle neck created before the 3.5" oem pipe or any other aftermarket sized pipe.
The Ford and Dodge pipe attaches in a manner that eliminates the bottleneck and maintains the same pipe diameter from connection to tip.
Regardless of the size pipe, you still have a bottleneck to force the exhaust gas through on the DMax.
I too have a 4" exhaust but I suspect the benefit is minimized by the bottleneck.
Larger diameter exhaust pipe can be a hinderance to performance in some cases. I started a thread some days ago and John Kennedy was the only person to reply the last time I checked. The question was- "Can you overscavenge diesel exhaust, like you can gasoline exhaust"? I don't think so.
Conversely, improvement in airflow which improves turbine performance (gas or diesel) can only be accomplished after the bottleneck where it probably doesn't matter much. The straight pipe add-on probably is as effective, at least for the DMax.
Might be good having a bit of restriction to help the turbo heat up and spool?
Hoot, I'm not being a smart@55 here, but I kind of think the turbo itself may be a pretty good plug in the exhaust as it is. Wouldn't ever think of squeezing exhaust threw there if it didn't have a compressor on the other side to make a benefit out of doing it. :rolleyes:
Steve
I really don't know the dynamics of it myself but I read elsewhere that some restriction just after the turbo helps it build heat/boost. There's a line of restriction -vs- boost that give you the best overall performance. Yes the turbo itself is a restrictor but the more heat it gets, the faster it spins because the hot expanding gases is what really makes that sucker whine.
I guess you would need some real before and after testing. One company actually restricts it's exhaust post turbo for this reason.
I believe this is a controversial subject, one that I am in no position to argue.
Hoot, I see your point. I wonder if anyone knows the point of balance between some restriction to create heat to then getting it out before it does harm. (High EGTs) Perhaps a venturi effect of some sort. Some turbo's seem to have this as the exhaust is connected to a bell shaped exit on the turbo creating a negative pressure as it goes into the pipe of larger diameter. (Or less positive pressure anyway.)
Steve
On edit: I'll agree I am in no position to state facts on this either. ;)
[ 01-02-2003: Message edited by: YZF1R ]</p>
Blackwheel
01-02-2003, 23:50
I don't believe you would want a restriction in an exhaust system AFTER the turbo. That would be reducing the efficiency of the turbo. For maximum turbo performance, you would want a free flowing exhaust with the lowest possible backpressure past the turbo as possible.
Oongawah
01-03-2003, 02:46
You all doubting the JK Exhaust. I as well as others have posted our results several times. As for me I'm gonna keep on enjoying it. Peace.
I don't believe most here are doubting Kennedy's exhaust. J/K's exhaust is similar to most all the aftermarket exhausts out there so criticizing his would be criticizing them all.
J/K has the full 5" tail pipe from the muffler back and the price is probably the most competitive.
I agree with Blackwheel.
The point of my earlier post is that there is an inherent restriction (regardless of pipe diameter after) in any DMax exhaust system due to the way the down pipe connects.
Check out the two web pages below, there are clear pictures of the flanges on the down pipes.
GM- http://www.bankspower.com/System.cfm?appid=AC08&sysid=SC13
Ford- http://www.bankspower.com/System.cfm?appid=AF01&sysid=SF18
A turbo doesn't need back pressure like a normally aspirated engine, in fact the opposite is true. Less is better. Therefore, I believe larger diameter exhaust systems are less beneficial to DMax applications because of the bottle neck at the connector.
But, I could be wrong. It happens.
Idle_Chatter
01-03-2003, 09:07
I just got back from a trip "home" to Florida and back. Just before heading out, I cut out my factory oval muffler and welded and clamped in a 4" Magnaflow straight-through muffler. While having no dyno or documented before and after tests, I can say unequivicably that my egt's are down 100 to 150 degrees, my boost is up 3 to 5 pounds, my turbo spools up faster, my acceleration is quicker and I just drove over 2,500 mostly interstate miles at an average of 68 mph and an economy of 19.8 mpg. When I mentioned the fact that I was installing the muffler, many people immediately said "oh, that will really make her sound tough!" to which I replied that I don't care about the sound, I want to reduce backpressure. The sound is very agreeable and there's a definite reduction in system backpressure and that's nothing but beneficial to our engines. Any aftermarket exhaust that offers a flow-through muffler will do nothing but good things for our trucks. I had a Kennedy 4" exhaust on my '99 6.5TD Tahoe that was great! I'm pretty pleased with my current "mufflerectomy" too! tongue.gif
chuntag95
01-03-2003, 09:22
From a pure flow dynamics standpoint, the shorter the smaller diameter pipe is, the better the overall flow. There is a drag associated with the length divided by the cross sectional area. The 4" vs. 5" when it is at the muffler is a good example. There is less restriction in the 5" assuming the same overall length of pipe, period. That being said, what do you get for it? The difference appears to be so small that you get little if any benefit performance wise. By going from the 3.5" to the 4" (31% increase in area) you do get less back pressure (drag) and as a result more flow. Same with 4" to 5". Do you get your money's worth? That is up to you to decide, but from a pure engineering standpoint, even with the bottleneck, you get more flow from the 4" vs the stock exhaust. Also, with larger pipe being closer to the turbo, which compresses the exhaust, the gases can expand more and therefore result in lower pressures. Given a fixed volume of gas, the bigger the space you give it, the less pressure there is in the system (pv=nRT ring any bells?). I could go on talking about boundry layers and surface roughness of the pipe, but that is beyond the scope or needs of this thread. This concludes today's flow theory class. tongue.gif :D
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From a pure flow dynamics standpoint, the shorter the smaller diameter pipe is, the better the overall flow. There is a drag associated with the length divided by the cross sectional area. The 4" vs. 5" when it is at the muffler is a good example. There is less restriction in the 5" assuming the same overall length of pipe, period. That being said, what do you get for it? The difference appears to be so small that you get little if any benefit performance wise. By going from the 3.5" to the 4" (31% increase in area) you do get less back pressure (drag) and as a result more flow. Same with 4" to 5". Do you get your money's worth? That is up to you to decide, but from a pure engineering standpoint, even with the bottleneck, you get more flow from the 4" vs the stock exhaust. Also, with larger pipe being closer to the turbo, which compresses the exhaust, the gases can expand more and therefore result in lower pressures. Given a fixed volume of gas, the bigger the space you give it, the less pressure there is in the system (pv=nRT ring any bells?). I could go on talking about boundry layers and surface roughness of the pipe, but that is beyond the scope or needs of this thread. This concludes today's flow theory class.
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Now that, my friend, is the whole ball of wax, in a nutshell ;)
I THOUGHT I WAS THE ONLY ONE WITH PV=nRT STILL BOUNCING AROUND IN SOME DEAD BRAIN CELLS...... :D DAVE
Idle_Chatter:
You posted a lot of numbers but you really didn't supply any useful information. What kind of load did you have when you made these observations? At what RPM and throttle were the boost and EGT's recorded? What criteria did you use to determine the turo was actually "spooling faster"?
chuntag95:
Thanks for the refreser course in fluid dynamics. Unfortunately you didn't give me anything I can use to make a decision to modify the exhaust or not. The criteria here is not theoretical improvement but useful improvement. It's obvious to even non engineering type folks that a highly modified engine will need a larger, more efficient exhaust. I don't think there has ever been any question about that.
The question I have (and probably many of the "silent majority") is if there is any real performance improvement for a stock engine. I would like to believe there is, just like I would like to believe I would win the lottery if only I'd buy a ticket! JK's dyno test says there is no improvement and I don't buy the argument that it would only show up on the road.
There are many subjective reports posted here. As many say no improvement as there are saying there is. None of them supply any objective data, without which they are meaningless.
IDLE_CHATTER: Did you see a mileage improvement after your muffler install?
What was before and after?
Blake
WillowCreekStable
01-03-2003, 12:42
Banks has told me their 4" system adds 18 hp and 30 ft lbs of torque at the rear wheels. Are they yanking my chain????????
chuntag95-
You obviously know more about flow dynamics than I. Furthermore, I neither can nor want to dispute any point you make.
Having said that, the point I was (am still) making is that I believe larger diameter exhaust systems are less beneficial to DMax applications than Ford or Dodge because of the bottle neck at the exhaust system connector.
This has to be a detriment.
Idle_Chatter
01-03-2003, 14:10
LarryM: As I stated in my post, I don't have dyno or *critically* documented results, however:
Gauges installed 11/29/02
Observation of egts and boost have been continuous since that time (not logged to infinite detail)
Magnaflow muffler installed 12/23
Left for Florida 12/26 and returned to Maryland yesterday - 01/02. Entire trip was running unloaded (except for luggage).
Dates and mileage for last 11 tanks of fuel:
11/15 - 19.5
11/16 - 19.7
11/20 - 18.4
11/27 - 18.3
12/05 - 17.7
12/11 - 17.2
12/26 - 17.5
12/27 - 18.8
12/28 - 19.8
12/30 - 20.3
01/02 - 19.3
I'm running a Juice box, version 3.61c on level 3
Prior to the muffler swap, my "normal" boost was not only slower to build with throttle as observed on the boost gauge, but only peaked out at 16 to 20 psi. Now the boost gauge moves up noticably faster and I'm peaking at 19 to 26 psi.
Prior to the muffler change, my egt's were 100 to 150 degrees higher across the board, even at idle. The increase in egt under load is also noticably slower with the reduced exhaust restriction and egts drop off very quickly when load is reduced (as in climbing and cresting a grade in cruise control). Cruising on the interstate now at 75 mph/2250 rpm, my boost cycles between 3 and 4 psi and my egt runs 550 degrees where the same conditions yielded 4 to 5 psi and 700 degrees before the muffler change. Prior to the muffler change, my highest egt reading (accelerating to pass a truck on an uphill) was 1100 degrees, since opening up the exhaust, I have not exceeded 900 degrees. Your opinions, your choices and your truck are your own. I'm certain of all three in my case and removing the tremendous backpressure produced by the factory muffler is as I said before, nothing but good for our trucks, been great for mine.
Idle_Chatter
01-03-2003, 14:19
NWDmax, mileage gains and losses are hard to quantify. See the 11 tank range in the post above. I have been getting very good mileage in my truck, and at 42,000 miles it has been gradually improving overall for the last 15,000 or so. Notice the "slump" in my numbers in December and that may very well have been the "winterization" (mixing #1 and #2)of fuel up here in Maryland. Conversely, my increases on the trip may be due to buying "southern" (all #2) fuel in Georgia and South Carolina on the trip. All I know is that a few hours of chain-cutting, welding and clamping in $250 worth of parts has made a noticable improvement in my trucks feel, performance, egts and maybe even economy! :D
SoCalDMAX
01-03-2003, 14:31
WillowCreekStable,
Banks has a history of making claims that can't/won't be backed up. They've been absolutely DRAWN and QUARTERED on Dodge and Ford diesel sites for their advertising claims and misrepresentation of the Magnusson-Moss Act. No other mfr of aftermarket diesel exhausts claims what they do, which is warning enough for me.
Back when people bought normally aspirated diesels and added a Banks Turbo kit, the performance boost was great, as it should have been. IMHO, one could produce more power with just as much reliability at a much lower cost by going to another vendor, based on posts elsewhere.
TraceF,
Based on the pics at the ATS site, I see exactly what you mean. I'm hoping that ATS does some dyno runs and towing with a 10,000lb trailer; measuring times, speeds and EGTs.
1. A baseline run on a totally stock Dmax
2. Their turbo and outlet with stock exhaust.
3. Fueling enhanced truck with stock exhaust.
4. Fueling enhanced truck with their turbo, outlet and stock exhaust.
5. Fueling enhanced truck with their turbo, outlet and 4" exhaust.
6. Fueling enhanced truck with their turbo, outlet and 5" exhaust.
Of course, I don't ask for much, which is why Santa doesn't even bother to come by my house anymore... I *THOUGHT* I was a good boy. ;)
Regards, Steve
Silver Bullet
01-03-2003, 14:58
I wonder if JK has thought about selling the modified manifolds like his to get rid of the bottle neck???
Idle_Chatter:
Thanks for the very informative reply. That's the kind of stuff I want! Unfortunately there wasn't quite enough there for me to make a decision with. Not your fault, since you were not operating under the conditions that I am most interested in.
95%, or more, of my driving is done at 1900RPM/65 MPH with a cargo trailer, typically 15,000 to 16,000 pounds with a high wind load. I care little about gains, either real or imagined, at higher RPM/speed.
I agree that improving the flow on your exhaust does only good things. The question still remains, however, if the improvements *I see* will offset the expense incurred and the disruption of a perfectly good OEM system. I want to believe, I really do, but prior experiences cause me to be very cautious.
SoCalDMAX
01-03-2003, 17:11
LarryM,
I noticed in your sig you've got an Allison but wish it was a 6 speed. You also stated that you're pulling 15-16,000lbs with a high wind load. I'm just curious, do you have any mods to your truck? Juice, or something like that? Do you feel the Allison is downshifting to 4th too much when the wind or a hill comes up? Is that why you'd prefer the manual tranny?
The only reason I'm asking is that if you added a bit more power (say 60hp and 100ft-lb) I'm positive the Allison would stay in 5th better thus measurably increasing fuel economy. I'm towing maybe half of what you are (if I can believe the trailer mfr's label) and I couldn't live without the extra power.
If you already know all this or have a box or don't want to consider it, I apologize in advance.
Regards, Steve
Idle_Chatter
01-03-2003, 18:41
No problem, LarryM, I understand your caution - especially since you are working your truck. Egt's are the critical item, especially under load and if you add any fuel with a chip or other modification. Gauges are vital to closely monitor egt's and stay out of trouble. That being said, reducing exhaust restriction (the greatest restriction on the stock exhaust is the oval muffler) is the simplest and cheapest method to gain lower egt's. My egt's across the board have gone down with the straight-through muffler - at all speeds and under all conditions, as observed on my gauge before and after the muffler change. I was leary of adding a chip, as my truck seemed fast and powerful enough without one, but the major gain from the Edge Juice was not only some additional power, but better utilization of that power. The stock programming is very stingy in the low range, both for emissions and torque managment. The Edge makes significant improvements in the low and mid range power, making it very smooth and linear and modifies shift points which adds to the smoothness. I would be willing to bet cash money that you would be extremely satisfied with an Edge box in level 2 and a free-flowing exhaust in your application. Running on rolling hills in cruise control, I can really see the Edge programming allowing the truck to work through the rpm band that would have it down and up shifting without the box. Good luck and stay safe.
Blackwheel
01-03-2003, 19:28
Try this logic guys. I bet 90% of the folks in this discussion are using some sort of synthetic motor oil. Am I right? Maybe not? OK being that a quart could cost $3-4 more than regular oil, you have to ask yourselves, Is it worth it? Am I seeing and performance gains? Probably a minimal gain in performance but in the LONG RUN, yes, very much worth it in durability. Same with a more free flowing exhaust. You may not see any performance gain, but in the long run, the ware and tare on mechanical parts will surely be extended with less heat and stress. With what Idle Chatter has shown is that there IS less heat and could help this beast in the LONG RUN.
LONNY
I think the hidden factors as stated above are where the gains are...Forget actual numbers but it's the volume of escaping gasses to lower EGT'S,in addition higher flow is resulting in a faster spool up....When your enhancing your truck it's a must IMO....Sounds excellent TOO!!!!!
And lets not forget,
I got a 4" exhaust CAUSE all the KOOL kids GOT one !!!!!
MAC
:D :D
[ 01-04-2003: Message edited by: mackin ]</p>
Yeah I'm just tryin to keep up with the Mackin's of the world,thats it LOL.
I/we don't have to justify what we do to our trucks to anybody.I'm having a ton of fun with the thing and isn't that what its all about? :D
chuntag95
01-04-2003, 17:30
Trace F
__________________________________________________
"The point I was (am still) making is that I believe larger diameter exhaust systems are less beneficial to DMax applications than Ford or Dodge because of the bottle neck at the exhaust system connector."
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If we take the whole Furd, Doge and Cheby thing out of it, and just base the answer on engineering principles, the restriction does hurt the flow, but not as significantly as you might think. Due to the fact that the down pipe is a smaller diameter, the restriction to the flow is seen as less. From just looking up the down pipe (I put my JK 4" on today with Silver Bullet's help), there is not much of a restriction there. If you cut that joint out and weld in a convertor or put a joint similar to the one that was on down the line, you will get better flow. It is my opinion (because I haven't run the numbers) that the actual flow gain you get from that exercise will not get you very much. That is based on looking at the system and looking at the interior.
On a different note, we cranked my truck after we pulled the rear section of the factory exhaust off. It was actually quiter than with the new exhaust. I was tempted to just leave it that way, :eek: but didn't want to waste my money and not have the polished SS tip. :D Engineers want to be cool too, it is just harder for us. tongue.gif
Oongawah
01-04-2003, 21:02
Hi LarryM,
I tried to be suttle earlier. If you do a search on this site for posts regarding this issue, you will find detailed information I, and others have posted. Have you read the thread where I posted doing 75 up the Cajon Pass with my 5ver fully loaded with power to spare in 5th gear Juice set at level 2? There's quite a bit of info from a lot of us in that one.
I have noticed one thing. The only ones dogging the improvements are people who don't have the ones in question. Makes me feel good that you don't hear negatives from those that do have the improvements. I don't mean to stir much here, but it really upsets me when there is so much info here, and it's completely ignored. Sorry, I'll go take a pill(hehe). Chuck
Chuntag95(Chris)
Kind of off topic but how much clearance did you have between the tailpipe and the bottom of the rear quarter panel?I had about 5" so I relocated the rear hanger(not the only reason)and now have about a 3" space.I also cut 2.5" off the tailpipe to get the length just right.
That stainless tip looks pretty cool huh!!
Blake :D
NWDmax,
I know you didn't ask me regarding the tailpipe position but thought I would share anyway. ;) ;)
I cut about 3 inches off the tailpipe where it connects to the muffler. I also cut about two inches off the other end. The tip slid right up to the end perfect. I found through rotating the tailpipe I was able to obtain about two inches clearance from the bottom of the quarter panel and had ample clearance to the spare tire as well.
BTW, I secured my stainless tip via two small screws through the tip and then into the tailpipe itself...after predrilling of course. How did your secure your tip to the tailpipe?
Just curious.
In order to maintain proper clearances and keep the hanger rubbers off the pipes, the hangers have been set up semi neutral. The factory rods that weld to the frame may be adjusted by bending upwards or downwards as needed.
I generally will start with the crossmember offset pulled right up tight against the crossmember so that when the weight is applied it will give me the minimum clearance. I try for 1/4" as this dimension can really only grow with time, and my goal is to NOT see the exhaust system from the side.
As for stainless, look at the ATS turbo pics and you will see the brownish OE turbo outlet pipe. This is 409 SS. The next pipe in the system has a galvanized appearance. This is aluminized mild steel. The gassers use 409 SS right through the cats and then go to aluminized. Crawl under one and have a look...
RVGUY,I just slipped the stainless tip over the tailpipe and let friction hold it in place.
I think JK said that is how he did his.It hasn't moved one bit and as JK said it's easier to clean when you can pull it right off.
Blake tongue.gif
chuntag95
01-08-2003, 13:33
I also cut off a little here and a little there (3 places in all) to get a perfect fit. Thank the lord for 18V DeWalt Recip Saw and air tools! I could get about any angle or distance I wanted off the back of the fender as I got everything in place before tightening anything. I made it level and made sure I had a half inch or so from the rubber hanger. I also predrilled and put in 2 small screws to hold on the tip in place. Don't want it to grow legs and walk.
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