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StephenA
09-25-2003, 09:15
Does anyone have any tips on radiator rodding? I figure it's time to pull mine and have it rodded, although I have no experience on how to tell if it's needed or verify if the price or job from the radiator house is good. Suggestions?

ucdavis
09-25-2003, 09:35
The best way to get great rad service is find the shop locally that the hot-rodders use. These guys are usually the hobbyists & artisans, and learn their trade cuz they love it, not cuz its a good way to skin the public. The shop I use is honest & does lots of custom work. If they are not the lowest $ around, they don't miss it by much, and I know they know its right when its done.

StephenA
09-25-2003, 10:07
Excellent advice, UC. Would you recommend a back flush first to see what the flow is like or is 170k time for rodding regardless?
-s

ucdavis
09-25-2003, 11:23
Rodding is more a function of specific type of antifreeze, amount of contamination in water added initially & since, & frequency of service. The "permanent" coolants like DexCool w/distilled water should be A-OK @ your mileage. Old style coolants &/or minerals in H2O crud up the passages. But a good shop can do a series of tests for coolant flow, etc. & tell for sure.
Biggest single prob w/6.5's seems to be the space between radiator & AC condenser that never gets cleaned cuz you can't see it. Many have died young for lack of said cleaning, even after abundant attention to cleaning back of rad & front of condenser.
Kennedy or Hayden improved fan clutch is next best investment after said cleaning. Also, if you have no idea how old the thermostat is, it's time for a new one.

Journeydog
09-25-2003, 13:47
This guy not speak with forked tongue. Unless you keep this engine cooled, you are begging for a new one. I'm going through the engine transplant process right now and it all started with a major clogged radiator.

Hi Mike!

StephenA
09-25-2003, 14:16
Thanks guys! Say, before I replaced my fan clutch, the temps went up to about 250F a couple of times very briefly, with no boil over. No problems since, but how can I tell if any damage was done?

ucdavis
09-25-2003, 18:28
Ouch. 250 is too high, but survivable if brief & not repeated. You can do a borescope/microscope check for scoring in #8 & #6, maybe #7 too. Don't know about head/valve damage checks w/out removing heads.
And there's oil analysis. I haven't done that but others here have/do. One guy has oil bypass filtration w/synthetic oil & does oil analysis to assure safety w/ultra-long (for diesel) oil change intervals. Do a google search for engine oil analysis.
Anybody else?

StephenA
09-26-2003, 05:26
Thanks UC, I check it out.
Stephen

cruzer
09-26-2003, 06:43
I'm w/Journeydog. The effects of my overheating
problems didn't materialize until 6 to 7 months
later, w/a cracked piston in #3 hole. During rebuild cooling was #1 priority then performance. Keep'em cool and maintain cooling system.

My rad was shot, but if it weren't, after the investment of rebuild, $350-375 seemed minimal. Also figured 11yrs on original brass/copper core was enuff. Just do your homework and get a good 1.

[ 09-26-2003, 07:02 AM: Message edited by: cruzer ]

StephenA
09-26-2003, 07:45
Yep, cruzer -I agree. Say, what material was your new core? - aluminum for 375? Sounds like a great price. Where can I find one?

cruzer
09-26-2003, 09:16
I found it online. I typed in "Radiator". I originally purchased 1 local and got a run around w/a delphi rad that looked like it was for generic applications and looked inferior(1 row 1.5"core)to the orig brass & too restrictive. Of course they said exchange only no refund, then I told them I wanted a Visteon, I got it and stuck it in w/o looking at it closely,the filler neck was too tall, I was fed up w/the local hole in the wall & their supplier rep so I kept it. The deal was over 2 wks old by now. I ran it anyways for about 300 miles. I wanted to run the new motor & break it in. I needed the truck. The rad fit except for the filler neck, it hit the hood slightly, everything else is the same as original & the 1 I purchased on the net. Every replacement rad I found was alum/plastic. I'll have to look for the receipt. I think it was $350 plus shipping to my door. Total was like $375. I recieved it the next day.From what I recall the online supplier had serveral warehouses. My local vendor list seems to be getting smaller and smaller.

I have the taller filler neck 1 for sale in the classified section. It is a 2 row, either 1" or 1 1/4" cores. I can't remember, but it is the same phyisical thichness as oringinal copper. And it worked great.

StephenA
09-27-2003, 02:24
Thanks again, cruzer. Say, how much HP are you getting from your 92? Great year, I think. Straight mechanical...