View Full Version : Radiator Rodding
StephenA
09-25-2003, 09:15
Does anyone have any tips on radiator rodding? I figure it's time to pull mine and have it rodded, although I have no experience on how to tell if it's needed or verify if the price or job from the radiator house is good. Suggestions?
The best way to get great rad service is find the shop locally that the hot-rodders use. These guys are usually the hobbyists & artisans, and learn their trade cuz they love it, not cuz its a good way to skin the public. The shop I use is honest & does lots of custom work. If they are not the lowest $ around, they don't miss it by much, and I know they know its right when its done.
StephenA
09-25-2003, 10:07
Excellent advice, UC. Would you recommend a back flush first to see what the flow is like or is 170k time for rodding regardless?
-s
Rodding is more a function of specific type of antifreeze, amount of contamination in water added initially & since, & frequency of service. The "permanent" coolants like DexCool w/distilled water should be A-OK @ your mileage. Old style coolants &/or minerals in H2O crud up the passages. But a good shop can do a series of tests for coolant flow, etc. & tell for sure.
Biggest single prob w/6.5's seems to be the space between radiator & AC condenser that never gets cleaned cuz you can't see it. Many have died young for lack of said cleaning, even after abundant attention to cleaning back of rad & front of condenser.
Kennedy or Hayden improved fan clutch is next best investment after said cleaning. Also, if you have no idea how old the thermostat is, it's time for a new one.
Journeydog
09-25-2003, 13:47
This guy not speak with forked tongue. Unless you keep this engine cooled, you are begging for a new one. I'm going through the engine transplant process right now and it all started with a major clogged radiator.
Hi Mike!
StephenA
09-25-2003, 14:16
Thanks guys! Say, before I replaced my fan clutch, the temps went up to about 250F a couple of times very briefly, with no boil over. No problems since, but how can I tell if any damage was done?
Ouch. 250 is too high, but survivable if brief & not repeated. You can do a borescope/microscope check for scoring in #8 & #6, maybe #7 too. Don't know about head/valve damage checks w/out removing heads.
And there's oil analysis. I haven't done that but others here have/do. One guy has oil bypass filtration w/synthetic oil & does oil analysis to assure safety w/ultra-long (for diesel) oil change intervals. Do a google search for engine oil analysis.
Anybody else?
StephenA
09-26-2003, 05:26
Thanks UC, I check it out.
Stephen
I'm w/Journeydog. The effects of my overheating
problems didn't materialize until 6 to 7 months
later, w/a cracked piston in #3 hole. During rebuild cooling was #1 priority then performance. Keep'em cool and maintain cooling system.
My rad was shot, but if it weren't, after the investment of rebuild, $350-375 seemed minimal. Also figured 11yrs on original brass/copper core was enuff. Just do your homework and get a good 1.
[ 09-26-2003, 07:02 AM: Message edited by: cruzer ]
StephenA
09-26-2003, 07:45
Yep, cruzer -I agree. Say, what material was your new core? - aluminum for 375? Sounds like a great price. Where can I find one?
I found it online. I typed in "Radiator". I originally purchased 1 local and got a run around w/a delphi rad that looked like it was for generic applications and looked inferior(1 row 1.5"core)to the orig brass & too restrictive. Of course they said exchange only no refund, then I told them I wanted a Visteon, I got it and stuck it in w/o looking at it closely,the filler neck was too tall, I was fed up w/the local hole in the wall & their supplier rep so I kept it. The deal was over 2 wks old by now. I ran it anyways for about 300 miles. I wanted to run the new motor & break it in. I needed the truck. The rad fit except for the filler neck, it hit the hood slightly, everything else is the same as original & the 1 I purchased on the net. Every replacement rad I found was alum/plastic. I'll have to look for the receipt. I think it was $350 plus shipping to my door. Total was like $375. I recieved it the next day.From what I recall the online supplier had serveral warehouses. My local vendor list seems to be getting smaller and smaller.
I have the taller filler neck 1 for sale in the classified section. It is a 2 row, either 1" or 1 1/4" cores. I can't remember, but it is the same phyisical thichness as oringinal copper. And it worked great.
StephenA
09-27-2003, 02:24
Thanks again, cruzer. Say, how much HP are you getting from your 92? Great year, I think. Straight mechanical...
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