View Full Version : Update!! Starter cranks at about 2 rpm
About 2 weeks ago, I started having some trouble starting my truck when it was hot, crank but no start, so I changed my FSD (manifold mounted on an FSD cooler). It started fine, but the next day it wouldn't start. It was about -15
Can you check to see how much current is used when you engage the starter? Some owners in this area have reported a lot of starter bearing trouble. Worn bearings could cause your symptoms.
K.D.
What is voltage drop at starter when cranking.
If ok, Drop The Starter,
BAD THINGS happen when Pushing a Sick starter to far, Real Bad Things, Like broken Bolts,
Did you put the front strap on ?
Also, You gotta heat them desiels for long life....
Can you check to see how much current is used when you engage the starter?I don't have any way to tell how much current draw is, but
What is voltage drop at starter when cranking.I don't see the voltage dropping more than normal either, so it suggests that the current draw is normal. The starter bushings were replaced at the time of rebuild.
Did you put the front strap on ?The front strap is on. The starter bolts are still good.
Also, You gotta heat them desiels for long life....I've owned this truck since it had 19,000 kms, and it's been in the great white north the whole time. It has 225,000 kms now, and I seldom try it unheated. -15
Barry Nave
03-06-2005, 06:45
Had this once,one of the battery went south.
Cranked slow,soon after the starter went out,melt down :eek:
If you have a Auto Zone near by you can have it check out today ;)
dieselbegreat
03-06-2005, 18:48
Yes, you can have AutoZone check your stuff out. Could be one battery developed a short (which would cause both batteries to discharge), the cable or connector at the starter melted, or the starter partially burned out (my vote).
Unfortunately, we don't seem to have Auto Zone in Canada. at least not in or near where I'm at. I'm taking the batteries back to where I bought them, and if they have to wait for an Interstate rep to come, I'll wait. The truck isn't a daily driver, I use it more for pulling our 5th wheel than anything else, so it's not an emergency. It's just got me befuddled right now.
I had a similar problem with my '84 once. It would crank slow but the batteries were good, good ground, etc. I tried a substitue starter just for kicks and low and behold, it cranked over like new. If you have a spare starter, try that as well.
Be sure and check the battery ground cables where they bolt to the engine. They will corode over time and the area where the copper wire is crimped into the loop that the bolt goes through will turn green and it will really mess things up. I bought a 94 Suburban last week and the guy who owned it before told me that it had always been hard to start and had other electrical issues.
Checking things out revealed two bad ground cables (engine end) and after repairing those all the other problems except one went away. It also had a code 78 and a new waste gate solenoid fixed that up quick. These little beasties have to have good cables and top notch batteries or youuuuuis fouled.
Best fix for these rigs is to use welding cable and solder on the copper eyes so there is no place for corosion. I have one of mine done now and the other truck is soon to follow. I used top terminal batteries with the threaded post and copper eyes and brass nuts and washers and then do the grease thing over them to keep the fungus from growing.
INTERSTATE Batteries.
Had a " Threaded barrel " loose in an Interstate
battery, It took me months to find, Would crank slow until I tightened up the right positive cable,
than a few weeks later, same problem.
Did the battery terminal fix, Could not get bolt out of battery, Threaded barrel was loose and turning in the battery.....
The " Fix " ( bolt with Jam nut ) is worth doing...
INTERSTATE Batteries.
Had a " Threaded barrel " loose in an Interstate
battery, It took me months to find, Would crank slow until I tightened up the right positive cable,
than a few weeks later, same problem.
Did the battery terminal fix, Could not get bolt out of battery, Threaded barrel was loose and turning in the battery.....
The " Fix " ( bolt with Jam nut ) is worth doing...I have an Interstate battery that that happened to. Fortunately, it is a 'dual' connector type battery, so I got an adaptor to use the top post. The Interstate rep says he has never heard of that before. I say B.S. Anyway, the batteries I have now are also 'dual' post type batteries, but I haven't tried the top posts yet. I will, and if the truck works, they can have their batteries back. The batteries tested fine today. I took them to a different place than I bought them at, since the place I bought them had no 'load cell'. I reinstalled them, and it was the same. Even after I switched the batteries side for side. I do have the "Fix", with the bolt and jam nut on them, have had for over a year.
Can someone clarify for me, where the positive terminals for each battery goes? I know the passenger side battery goes to the starter, and the alternator, but where does the driver side battery go to? Everywhere else? Last year when I was having starter problems, the Neutral start switch was replaced, and I had no further trouble, till now. I checked all the fuses under the hood, and all are good. How does one check the relays for the starter, and ignition, besides trial and error?
I am buying another starter. I've had the original one rebuilt twice. I will likely get welding cable, I had that in a Bronco I owned back in the mid 80's, and it worked real well. I have checked the ground cables, but I'll check them again. I've been bitten by that in other cases.
[ 03-07-2005, 11:20 PM: Message edited by: KallyI ]
When I changed my starter:
I added wire length to the Soleniod " Engage " wire.
and ran a " emergency " jump wire up close to the battery.
Reason: 1. I can remove the Big Red Plus wire from the battery and with the extra wire lenght; the starter can be droped without taking off the wires from the starter solenoid
2. IF NO START: I can jump the solenoid
to the battery, bypassing the
starter sw in the column.
I HATE TO GET STRANDED IN THE WAY BACK.
Originally posted by KallyI:
[QUOTE]INTERSTATE Batteries.
Can someone clarify for me, where the positive terminals for each battery goes? I know the passenger side battery goes to the starter, and the alternator, but where does the driver side battery go to? Everywhere else? Last year when I was having starter problems, the Neutral start switch was replaced, and I had no further trouble, till now. I checked all the fuses under the hood, and all are good. How does one check the relays for the starter, and ignition, besides trial and error?Positive on the drivers side hooks directly to the positive on the passenger side which then goes down to the starter solinoid. Passenger ground is grounded to the block as is the drivers side.
I used #2 welding cable when I redid my battery cables. Since you are in Lacombe, go to Acklands in Red Deer and pick up the cable plus the top mount terminals made for soldering. Make sure you use non acid core solder. Get connectors for the opposite end of the cables to bolt to the starter and block.
Acklands has a top mount terminal shaped like a "T" for the positive cable on the passenger side. In this terminal, the positive cable from the drivers side is soldered into one side and then the cable to the starter is soldered into the opposite side. It slips onto the battery on the passenger side nicely. Use some liquid electrical tape to cover up any seams or exposured welding cable once you are done soldering. Also, protect the cables from rubbing with that plastic wire loom stuff. Last thing, once the terminals are mounted and tightened onto the battery posts, coat them with grease or battery terminal spray and they will not corrode. Do this and you will never have another failure with your cables.
Do not use the side mount terminals as from my experience they are garbage and prone to failure. Top mounts are the only way to go.
This is an update to this problem. Since I have a couple of other vehicles, the truck was not a priority to get running, so I left it for a while. Also, I had no way to get it into my garage, and it was cold out in March, And a lot of April, here in the "Great White North", so I didn't feel like freezing my butt off to fix it. I bought a new starter of of eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=7963792885&sspagename=STRK%3AMERFB%3AIID
It took 3 weeks to get to me, and then I had to wait another 2 weeks to get the time to install it, but I got it on yesterday, and what a didfference. It starts better than it ever has, since it was new. One revolution, and the engine is running. What a change!! I'm a happy camper. Now all I have to do is get my intercooler on, new ball joints, tie rods, etc.... LOL.
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