Fuels costs - interesting results

[Jelisfc]

In the gas vs diesel mileage question "Where do you break even?" I am on the line. Being from Minnesota I don't use fuel costs as a factor due to blended fuel in the winter. I finally found a web site run by the Dept of Energy that gave weekly average gasoline and diesel retail prices. For gas it was since 1990 and diesel 1994. I was able to download and average prices for all DOE zones. I looked at regular gasoline and diesel average retail prices since June 5 2000 until now and was surprised.

US overall - diesel $0.02 cheaper
East Coast - Gas $0.01 cheaper
Midwest - diesel $0.02 cheaper
Gulf coast - Gas - $0.02 cheaper
Rocky Mtns - Even match
West Coast, incl AK & HI - diesel $0.07 cheaper
California only - diesel $0.06 cheaper

If anyone can post an Excel spreadsheet I'd be happy to e-mail it.

[Raptorrider2001]

A couple of years ago, Trailer Life mag. did a comparison of a big block and power stroke on where the break even point was. At 100,000 miles it was about even.

[woundedbear]

Last November, when I decided to buy a new pickup, I boiled my options down to two nearly identical K2500HD Crew Cab/Short Box's. The only difference (big difference) between the two was that one was equipped with the Duramax/Allison combo, the other with the 6.0L/Auto combo. Thankfully, I ended up with the D/A and have had an 8 month and counting love affair since! :D It may be an old line, but it's definitely the truth...you'll NEVER be disappointed when you buy the best!

Seriously, though, I made a spreadsheet to keep track of all of my fuel statistics ever since my first fill up. After every fill up, my break even point is recalculated to show me at what odometer reading fuel savings alone will pay for the D/A powertrain upgrade. It currently stands @ 199,583 miles.

The equation is a little hard to explain, but easy to see after looking at the spreadsheet. It takes into account what I paid for the D/A option, the average diesel and regular gas price per gallon, my actual MPG average, and an assumed 13 MPG average that I would have achieved with the 6.0L/Auto combo. I based that assumption from conversations and forum posts from people driving the same setup.

Lately, the break even odometer reading has been falling rather quickly due to great summer MPG's and the high price of regular gas. Not that I don't have dreams of driving this pickup 'til 400,000 miles, but when regular gas was @ $1.179 and diesel was @ $1.369 last winter, that's about where the break even point was! :eek:

[ 08-01-2002: Message edited by: woundedbear ]</p>

[crafty]

We have a much larger price spread up here in Ontario. I pay 61.9 per litre right now for Diesel. That means it would be 2.34 per US gallon. Regular gas is selling for 74 per litre so that would be 2.80 per US gallon. Gas is high right now so this spread is more than usual but normally there is about 9 or 10 cents a litre (25 cents a US gal.) difference. This means the payback is alot shorter for us. :D :D :D

[Lawnboy]

WoundedBear,

A closer match (and easier to calculate) would have been the D/A vs. the 8.1/Allison. Same gear ratio. I beleive the Diesel would pay for itself much sooner against "thirstyer" competition. Plus the tranny cost is equal. Big difference in price with the 6.0/4L80E.
Pretty cool that your tracking fuel. My Dad (Tanker) does the same with his 95 Burban. No computers though, just a log book!

[BLUMAX]

I'll probably get slapped for this ... but it has to be said. that you can't base your decission on fuel costs alone, but have to figure in everything the truck will be used for. And believe me and all of us here, this baby will do just about anything well. My previous truck had a 454 and so far my around town milage is about double at 14-15 mpg, I get 18-19 mpg unloaded hiway, 13-14 mpg pullin' the 5th wheel. Real world fuel comparisson so far is better than what was written. Bottom line is just get the best truck for the job intended. But like woundedbear said you won't be disappointed with the D/A combo because its the best truck for any job. I've had mine for 6 months and 9300 miles, and that "DMAX grin" is permanent. smile.gif

[mackin]

Ya had to bring up fuel cost on this day, the day CT put an additional . 05 cents worth of tax on a gallon of #2......Not to mention the Tankers expenses went up so CHA CHING make that . 08 cents a gallon total......Went from a ridiculous $1.39 to $1.47 overnight and I'm on empty........I should get a transflow and toss a couple 2/3 55 gallon drums in my truck and head to JERSEY.....That oughta last for a while......What a time to be BANKS'D and JUICE'D......RUN-IN ON EMPTY.......

MAC "IS" :mad:

[Jelisfc]

I agree fuel costs are just one part of a buying decision. I was just suprised that over a two year period diesel vs gas prices are pretty close. When I had my first diesel in 1988 diesel tax was way low. Now that was payback! 24 MPG highway in a 1/2 ton 2wd how could you go wrong.

[FightinTXag]

I guess diesel vs. gasoline costs are very regional and depends on competition. I drive about 10-15 miles where every station has a diesel pump because it's $1.20 there. Where I live, there's only one station I've found selling diesel for $1.46, $0.11 more than 87 octane!

I've decided in my area I'll come out ahead with the Dmax over the '01 8.1/A (4.11 rearended)C2500HD I had because at the 10mpg of $1.35 fuel I was seeing after 7000mi compared to the 17mpg of $1.20 fuel I'm getting now after 1500mi, I'm saving about $0.065/mi. In a 100,000 miles that translates into $6500, well over the $3960 difference in cost between the dmax ($4810) and 8.1 ($850). I guess it would be a lot longer to the break-even point for the D/A over the 6.0/4L80E since the Allison is such an expensive option.

If you're elligible for GMS/GMO prices you can go here:
http://gmfamilysavings.com/employee/shop/index.html

Click on review pricing info that reflects your discount. You type in the name and social security number of the person who requests your certificate and you get to go to a special GM Buypower website that shows the discounted prices. According to that site GMS Duramax option is $3992 while the 8.1L costs $745 for a difference of $3247. That means break-even for the diesel is closer to 50,000 miles at those fuel costs, mileage, and GMS pricing.

That's a great idea to get the spreadsheet to calculate the break-even point for you. You should also have a field for the $/gal for gasoline at each fillup. That way the fluctuations in gasoline costs are averaged along with the diesel costs. I think I'll do that to mine.

[ 08-01-2002: Message edited by: FightinTXag ]</p>

[FightinTXag]

I guess I should include in my break-even calcs the cost of those extra 15-mile drives to fillup along with the extra 2qts of oil every change and more frequent fuel filter changes... :rolleyes:

[midwestdmax29]

Forget about the mileage, take a gas truck with 100,000 miles and a diesel with 100,000 miles on them and compare the resale value. Now add up all the other benefits and see where you're at. No brainer......

[Tim B]

Midwest is right. To get an accurate break-even point you need to determine the extra value that the diesel AND Allison trans add to the equation. If the break-even point is at 100,000 miles as was stated in one post above, then the real break even point has got to be way below that. You just can't use fuel costs alone.
Also, you need to factor in the fact that you can go further on a gallon of diesel then on gas. The cost per mile will be lower even if the cost of gas and diesel are equal.

Tim B.

Tim B.

[fred]

hi, you also have to include tune ups,but i just like being able to have a fast truck that people think is slow because its a diesel

[GMC-2002-Dmax]

I bought the D/A because I wanted one. Don't tow much, carry a load of tile once in a while. Mostly drive it SOLO.

Wanted it, Ordered it, Bought it, IN LOVE WITH IT.

Nuff Said!!!

GMC

[Paintdude]

Milage,towing power,resale and just plain having the best truck was why I bought mine..

I get almost the same milage out of the Dmax as I get with my 4.3 S-10..Which one would you rather drive?

[crafty]

"Wanted it, Ordered it, Bought it, IN LOVE WITH IT."

I agree with you 100% GMC-2002-DMAX
:D :D :D

[Texas Rancher]

woundedbear ,
I would love to see the spreadsheet that you have comprised. Please email it to me if you get a chance. email is: trcagle@flash.net

Also, when you mention that the gasser will get 13mpg, I think that might be a little bit of a liberal (not conservative) estimate. The buddies that have gassers around my neck of the woods are claiming 11-12 mpg at best.

[SoCalDMAX]

A guy at work had a 98 1500 with a (IIRC) 350 in it and he said he got 12-13mpg avg.

He now drives a S-10 ZR2 with a V-6 and only gets 16-17mpg, which is a little lower than he expected. I like driving a much higher capacity truck with a great deal more power and getting the same avg mpg, better mpg on long fwy trips.

Throw in mileage while towing, and the only option I could see was a diesel. The looks, ride, comfort, room, 5 spd auto tranny and ease of adding power are all bonuses.

I think I "broke even" when I drove it off the lot. I also echo GMC-2002-Dmax's sentiments!

Regards, Steve

[woundedbear]

Don't take my thirst for useless, yet interesting information too seriously. I, like many of you, do not feel I need to "break even" to justify my purchase. I just like to discuss numbers when it gets to talking about trucks around a few beers. :D

FightinTXag, it just so happens my spreadsheet has been set up to calculate my per tank savings and to date, my average per tank savings with the D/A over the 6.0L/Auto is $10.20. I just like thinking about the $10 bill I put in my pocket every time I fill up, all the while enjoying the best powertrain combo GM has to offer!

As far as trade in value is concerned...it just don't matter. I will drive this truck until Wisconsin road salt disintegrates the body.

Texas Rancher, I will send you the spreadsheet via email. It has a lot of calculations that may need some explanation, so if you have any questions, just email me. One thing I will tell you up front is my "break even" calculation takes into account what I personally paid relative to MSRP, which was 88.9% I will highlight the cells that need input for the calculations to work out. Don't forget to look on sheet two where the costs per mile and hour are broken down. I know, more useless information, but heck, it's fun!

One more thing, I chose 13MPG for the 6.0L/Auto configuration due to most of my miles being unloaded commuting to work and back. Although, I really look forward to it whenever I can load it to really see it shine!