Need help installing back up lights

[SWLA]

I bought a set of 55 watt backup lights and I need help with the wiring. Included with the kit is instructions on how to tie into wiring of the trailer harness. Here's what I want to try to do. I want the lights to come on when I shift into reverse, but I also want to place a switch somewhere so that I can turn them on any time. Here's the problem. I know next to nothing about wiring/electrical issues. Does any on have a schematic to do this? What guage wire should I use? Should I put fuses in the wiring? Any good places to mount a switch in the cab easily? Thanks for any help.

[3-Fan]

I got this from someone here on this page. I haven't done this, but sure looks like it will work. I have a schematic also is you want it, just drop me a line. Good luck and hope this helps. john6@zande.com


REAR FOG LIGHT INSTALL

Supplies needed for this project:
GM #15722980 Aux Lamps switch
Parts needed from Pioneer Electronics
1 - # 12177195 Connector for switch
2 - # 12064764 Locking tabs for #12177195
6 - #12129373 Terminals for switch
1 - #12193930 Connector for Position C4 on the MBEC
1 - #12193922 Connector for Position C9 on the MBEC
2 - #12129424 Terminals for MBEC connectors
2 standard automotive relays (diagram is marked with the standard relay terminal numbers)
Terminals for the relays
Your rear mounted lights
Some wire
Misc tape & ties, etc.

On my truck, the only factory wire that would need to be cut or tapped into would be the light green wire (backup lamps) on connector C6 on the MBEC. C6 is the 12 way connector that also has some of your overhead wiring on the uplevel trucks.

If you have a plug connected to C4, you can move that wire another terminal (let me know if you need to do this and I'll let you know which other terminals can be used). This is the +12V feed for the rear lights - it's tied to a 15amp circuit.

If you have something plugged into C9, then you'll have to tap into the wiring on that connector. These connections provide the backlighting and LED dimming for the switch.

You can run the wiring for your rear lights out of the truck via the parking brake cable grommet.

The dash switch is installed by first removing the instrument cluster trim, and then removing the blank plate that is to the left of the airbag cutoff switch. Wire up your switch and snap it back into place.

If you don't have an airbag cutoff switch, or there's already something to the left of the airbag cutoff switch, you'll need a new switch pod housing. For a 4 cavity housing, use GM #15040484 (~$5) and for the two cavity housing with a fixed blank plate across the top two openings, use #15040483 (they're real cheap at GMPD). You might need an additional blank plate to fill any remaining unused cavities GM # 15734687, they come 5 to a pack (~$2)

[SDWA]

SWLA has a Crew Cab, which means no airbag cutoff switch or switch pod. Just a storage slot. :(

If he doesn't have the worthless fog lights, maybe he could use that switch instead. Or, use a diode in the power lead to the relays and use the cargo light switch/circuit to activate the lights...

Scott

[SWLA]

As SWDA said, I don't have that airbag cutoff switch. I have come to enjoy that little storage space as my cell phone fits in ther great. I bought a lighted rocker switch that I would like to mount somewhere discrete, maybe inside the center console? I do have the factory fog lights, but I am planning on replacing them. I plan to use the factory switch. Has anyone seen the Pilot OEM style replacement fog lights? Should be a metal housing instead of the cheap plastic factory ones. I have found them on the Pilot website: http://www.pilotautomotive.com/pilot2bd.htm but I can't find anyone to order them from. 3-Fan, I sent you an email.

[SDWA]

If you don't mind having the cargo lights come on when you manually activate the backup lights, using the cargo light switch/circuit would be the best way to go... If the cargo light is positve switched it would be real easy (you'd only need diode to prevent reverse from turning on cargo light), if it's negative switched you'll need a relay to provide +12v to the backup light relay, but no diode would be necessary.

Scott

[Ranger354]

SWLA,

I put some lights under the rear of my CC a few weeks back. They are great for putting the boat trailer where you want it to go. I also have a switch installed near the reciever at the rear of the truck. Email me at Rangerjbf@aol.com and I will send you some pictures.

The lights work when the truck is in reverse and or when I flip the switch. You can also install a switch under the dash if you wish, I just chose not to. I had an interior switch in my previous truck and found myself leaving the darn lights on while driving down the highway and them burning out after extended periods of time.

Any 12volt sealed beam lights will do. I do not remember the name brand of the ones I have but they are slim lined and attach in the drain hole in the rear leaf spring housing. All my wires attach in the harness at the rear of the truck. It took me maybe 20 min to install.

Ranger

[Maverick]

On my dually I added a light also. It is negative grounded. I taped into my camper prov. wiring reverse wire. The light is self grounding by mounting it and just ran a wire from the harness. No switch to turn it on by itslf though.

[Ranger354]

I just thought the switch near the rear of the truck would be and is handy when I am getting the boat ready to launch at the boat ramp early in the mornings.

I just worry about someone turning it on when I am away.

[dmaxster]

There's alot of ways to do this.....you can use a relay to isolate it from any other loads..... seen as though a diode has a real low current rating....a 55w halogen light will take 4 amps to run and if you run two, that even creates a bigger problem....so the use of a relay would be the better choice....this how you would get this work.....one you would need a 12v relay, and still a diode from radio shack rated for 1A . the cost under 1.00 . wire the relay as follows, pin 30 would be 12v fused from trailer Aux. Power. pin 87 would go to you're halogen lamps. pin 86 would be ground. pin 85 would be your control. the back up lamps or a switch.... if you choose to use both then you need a diode. and put a diode in each of the lines, the one from the reverse lamps and the one from the switch. now if you are negitively grounding the relay then you supply 12v to the relay at all times. and then using the ground to turn it on and still need to isolate the reverse lites from the halogens using a diode. any ques, just ask. dmaxster madenterprises@itol.com

[SWLA]

3-Fan, thanks for the schematic. One problem, it looks like at least a 3 neuron process and I have trouble with anything electrical requiring more than 2 brain cells. I like the idea of using the cargo light switch SWDA suggested. Does anyone know if it is + or - switched. How about if I run a wire from the switch to a relay, and for power I run a wire directly from the battery at the red box used for jump starting to the relay. If this works, how do I get them to work when in reverse? Can I wire them according to the instructions included and splice into the trailer plug? Does that sound like a bonehead move? Do I have a clue what I'm doing? (NO) Is there a loose nut between the steering wheel and the seat? (Probably)