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RB
11-14-2004, 07:16
...plentiful on this board, I'm seeking yours. :D
I've been mulling over some things and I want to see what you guys think.
I've had my Z now for 6 years and thanks to the TDP and it's members this truck has served me well and been a joy to drive and own. You can see the few mods I've done to it and it has done everything I've asked without complaint. It currently has 176k on the clock and I've kept it in well maintained condition with regular fluid changes and so on. It's due right now for plugs and injectors but starts and runs well.
I'm at a point where I need to squeeze a little more out of it and I'm considering a chip and exhaust upgrade. Something midrange not radical, just to get some help on the hills and in the mountains when I'm towing my Jeep and gear.
I'm tired of everyone running off and leaving me. :mad:
My concerns are...
1. Is this truck too worn at 176k to be turning it up?
2. Am I going to create some problems or concerns elswhere?
3. If it were your truck, what would you do to it to improve it or would you?
There's a Dmax in my future but I need to make this one work for about a year. Even when I get a Dmax I'll probably keep this truck so I'm not afraid to spend some money on it.

Thanks for your support. :D

markrinker
11-14-2004, 07:47
I am in exactly the same position with my two 1994s...

From my point of view, I'd take save your 'mods' money for a larger downpayment on a newer and lower mile Duramax, and then do the same mods to that motor.

rjschoolcraft
11-14-2004, 08:26
Well, at risk of being the "yardstick" again, I didn't start trying to pull power out of my Suburban until it had over 160,000 miles on it. It now has over 220,000 and makes more power now than it ever has.

I've spent a lot less on this truck than on a new Durabux, although, I would like to have one. It's just not in the budget for now.

Dvldog 8793
11-14-2004, 11:44
Howdy
My .02 .....
1- Open the exhaust
2- open the intake air path as much as possible, remove EGR system ect...
3- Then rechip
This just what I would do after the experiences I've had with my rig...
Have fun!
L8r

Billman
11-14-2004, 13:31
Chip it & open the exhaust.

You'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner...

matt-max
11-14-2004, 18:19
i wouldn't hesitate to put $1500-ish into it for exhaust, gauges, reprogramming if you got it to spend....you will definitely get your money worth in additional grins and less stress (on the truck and yourself) while towing.

i bet the truck will last as long or maybe even longer with those mods as it will have lower egt's and not have to work as hard.

knowing of a few 200k mile plus 6.5td's around, i'd go for it!

and if it craps out, sell the mo' power goodies to somebody on the board......

RB
11-14-2004, 20:57
Ok, Ok, you guys talked me into it. :D Like I needed alot of convincing.
A "yardstick" is kinda what I was looking for, somebody that's been there, done that.
And based on everyones suggestions it sounds like I'm heading in the right direction.

One thing though. Somebody mentioned the EGR.
I've disconnected the line running to the valve on the intake and plugged it off. Is there anything else I need to do with the EGR?

matt-max
11-15-2004, 04:32
yes! get yourself an upperintake gasket and egr gasket and a dremel or air-grinder and follow the egr-mod instructions in kennedy's web page. unplug the relays and/or use a thin piece of metal to physically block off the egr valve. do a search on this site and you will find plenty of info and pics on what to do....

i see you already have gauges....you can do a custom intake setup. (haven't done it yet myself, just running k&n's in factory airboxes modified as shown on kennedy's website.) at least one person is using a modified cummins plumbing setup with a relocated passenger side battery since nobody makes one for the 6.5 in the aftermarket. i will be doing something similar sometime soon.....

you can have your L56 programming upgraded to factory 1999+ L65 programming and get a duramax or powerstroke or aftermarket exhaust (i love the sound and response of kenndy's product!) and you will have added 40hp to around 170ish.

alternately, run kennedy's chip with electronic boost-controller or heath's chip with mechanical turbo-master or wester's chip with no boost add-on and you will be adding another 30+hp to around 200ish.

since you tow pretty heavy, an intercooler or water-injection would help a bunch and greatly help in keeping it all cool and in one-piece. the 1500's are a bit more complicated to add an intercooler to, but there are plenty who have done it using either powerstroke parts or an aftermarket setup....either way, lots of work and at least $1000-1500, but the guys who have done it swear it's the best time and money they have spent.

my 1500 tahoe can't take an intercooler down in front where the skid plate usually goes because of the snowplow mount....personally i don't like that location because of risk of damage from road debris or obstructions anyway. since i don't tow heavy with it much, i went the water-mist-alcohol injection route with it. bill heath is probabaly the most knowledgeable regarding this product and can set you up with a system for $500ish i think.

again, do a search on any or all of these topics, call or email the advertisers and suppliers and even the people who have tried these power and cooling improvements and you'll find plenty of info from those that have gone before.....

matt

matt-max
11-15-2004, 04:35
oh yeah, since you're gonna do injectors anway, probably would be worth the effort to install the high-flow or high-pop units at this time....

markrinker
11-15-2004, 06:31
Clarification: I am very happy with the mods and results done on #2. I am still a fan of the 6.5 diesel (properly modified) and will keep my old '94 plow/tow rigs around for at least another winter or two of plowing duty.

However, when I look at the cost of the mods and maintenance of an aging fleet combined with the plummeting resale value of 6.5 trucks in general (not to mention my poor mileage results due to the 4.10 gearing and a heavy foot) the Duramax replacement purchases loom near. Used 2002/2003 Duramax 2500s with 40-60K miles have fallen into the low 20K pricerange. Occasionally, high milers and cab/chassis flatbeds are selling for high teens. Pretty attractive considering the $40K pricetags fore new and with partial 100K drivetrain warranty remaining...

Since it sounded like RB was also close to making the Duramax jump, it seemed reasonable to save the money and build a better Duramax.

However, I re-read your post more carefully, and since you are planning to keep the 6.5 in addition to the Duramax purchase, the mods are definately worth the cost!

[ 11-15-2004, 05:54 AM: Message edited by: Mark Rinker ]

Marty Lau
11-15-2004, 14:07
Originally posted by ronniejoe:
Well, at risk of being the "yardstick" again, I didn't start trying to pull power out of my Suburban until it had over 160,000 miles on it. It now has over 220,000 and makes more power now than it ever has.

I've spent a lot less on this truck than on a new Durabux, although, I would like to have one. It's just not in the budget for now. Hey Ron I'll hold the other end of the stick for you!

RB;
I did several things too with higher mileage 155,000 and wish I did sooner but moeny isn't always there when we want. I am happy with the upgrades. I have been thinking of some sort of Charge cooling and right now leaning to water injection as I do get along pretty well without as I don't tow heavy very far. I would do the glow plugs and Injectors and get an exhaust. I think if you check Pinical/Jardine may still have a "special" on their systems going.

rjschoolcraft
11-15-2004, 18:19
Originally posted by 16ga SxS:
Hey Ron I'll hold the other end of the stick for you! Thanks, Marty! smile.gif

RB
11-15-2004, 21:35
Ok, I've searched here and JKs website and I'm not finding much about removing the EGR.
In some of the threads that I did find, I noticed a reluctance to discuss this topic. Does anyone have some links on this subject?
Please e-mail them to
rbbt1@cox.net

Also, Don't the "chips" bypass the EGR? If I chip this truck is it still nessecary to remove the EGR?

[ 11-16-2004, 03:13 AM: Message edited by: rb ]

Marty Lau
11-16-2004, 09:37
rb;

I have the Heath MaxiTork 2.0 and TM set up and I am very happy with it and would do it again. Bill Heath is a great guy to deal with. I know others are alos very happy with JK's chip too and like it. The BD chip people don't seem to give as good of reports from.

matt-max
11-16-2004, 09:58
go to kennedy's website and click on tech tips, then 6.2/6.5L tips, then air intake modification and look for the pics of the modified upper intake manifold

email me if you still have questions

matt

matt-max
11-16-2004, 09:59
oops

mwstuebe 'at' bluemarble.net

matt

David Brady
11-19-2004, 08:40
RB,
I can vouch for the intake changes. I actually replaced mine with the non EGR manifold and was very happy with the seat of the pants feel. If you compare the two you can see why the L56 is downrated.

RB
11-19-2004, 09:55
I get the part about covering the hole for the EGR. Where I'm lost is why I need a dremel/die grinder and the relays that need to be disconnected.
Also, are these mods needed if I install JKs chip?

:pssst: go ahead and tell me, the emmissions police aren't listening... :D

Turbine Doc
11-19-2004, 10:40
Ditto to spending a little more to get some oomph out of the old girl, even if you go as far as I went it's easier to save a couple of hundred here and there and upgrading as you can afford it, that new/newer truck note will come EVERY month.

stroll thru my web link in the sig you can see modded EGR intake

jspringator
11-19-2004, 13:47
Resale is always a consideration, but I am so far into mine now I can't afford to sell it. I had a transfer case and transmission go out within 2 months of each other. Then I rear ended 4 cars, had to pay my deductible, then got new front calipers and lines. About $5000, all told. Your analysis changes when you are so far into it, and they want to give you $5,000 in on trade. When it is paid for, its sole job will be to tow the trailer and boat, and maybe get a little exercise on weekends. I don't know what the realistic life of the chassis is. Most (if not all) of the mods will still be usable with a new engine. Despite my earlier dismal proclamations, I think this is a vehicle that you have to be committed to keep in order to make out.

RB
11-19-2004, 20:56
^^^^ Ok, thanks for all the advice but read the first post.
Money is not the issue nor was it in the question. I'm keeping the truck and I don't mind spending some money on it. There's no way somebody could give me what this truck is worth to me as a good reliable vehicle. I don't mind spending a little money on it to make it perform better.

RB
11-19-2004, 21:07
Tim, nice write up. Lot's of pictures. I do better when I have lot's of pictures. :D

rjschoolcraft
11-20-2004, 16:53
rb,

Here's where mine stands now. (http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=006650) It's fun to drive these when they run as well as this one does.

Mark Rinker, please don't get mad.