wax

[moisheh]

Ok all you Dmax fanatics,. What are you using for wax on your baby. I used to use Rain Dance, but it is hard to find. I tried Maguires but did not think it was very good.I just know that one of the forum posters knows which is the best.

[NutNbutGMC]

^.........www.zainobros.com

[TxDoc]

I recently tried Zaino (http://www.zainobros.com) and like it best at the moment. I used to like Zymol, but it didn't last very long.

[Maxxheadroom]

moisheh
It kinda depends, do want to just wax it or wax/seal it with a high end polymer urethane paint sealer...dealerships charge anywhere from $800.00 to $1200.00 for this treatment that you can buy for about $40.00 and do yourself. I've done my own truck (I use UltraCoat Protection Plus) and now I just hit the local do it yourself car wash and spray off the truck with a high pressure rinse (no scrubbing unless there is heavy mud) then fly down the freeway at 80 mph to dry it off (water just beads right off) and finish with a chamois...1/2 hour tops. Check with your local high end detail shops to see what they recommend

[GMC-2002-Dmax]

Zaino,

IMHO the best I have used.

GMC smile.gif

[Maxxheadroom]

Question for Zaino users...how long does the typical application last, does it seal, and can you use it for a winter coat etc...went to the website and it sounds like great stuff, looking for more info

[mps007]

Mothers!

O the 68 Chevelle , The 86 Sea Ray, The 00 Malibu & the 01 Silverado

No Contest - I've tried em all

[Paintdude]

Zaino....... :D smile.gif

[mattb5150]

Moisheh,

In my opinion the saying no pain no gain applies to wax. I used to do high end detailing, (Porsche, Lambroghini, Ferrari, etc.) and we always used pure carnuba waxes. Right now I'm using Meguiars yellow carnuba. It's pure carnuba with no cleaners in it. First I am using a Mother's clay bar to remove rail dust then waxing with two coats of wax. It's taking me quite a while cause I'm doing a panel a week on a crew cab long bed with a shell that my wife is always driving smile.gif

Matt B.

[mdrag]

I've been using Collinite waxes since the early 1980's, and have tried ALMOST everyting out there, but keep coming back to Collinite:

www.collinite.com/auto.htm

The #915 Pure carnauba wax or the #845 Liquid insulator wax are my favorites. The #845 will smear a bit on black, but the results are worth it IMHO. It's been a few years, but the #915 was approx $20 and the #845 ~ $10. The #845 is easy to apply/remove (other than the slight smearing on dark colors), and the #915 is your typical paste and requires more elbow grease - but still not bad.

Tastes Great!! Less Filling!!! etc. etc. :D

[slapshot44]

I have been using the Zaino products lately and am impressed with the shine and ease of application, however...

A few weeks ago I had the misfortune of driving down a freshly oiled and sanded street in my town, and they went way too heavy on the oil. As soon as I got to a clean section of road, I got out and checked the damage. The entire truck was covered with oil and sand from the beltline down, and that is not a pretty sight on a white truck! :eek:

Since I had just finished claying the truck and putting two coats of Zaino polish on the weekend before, I thought no problemo, I'll just go straight to the high-pressure car wash and just blow that junk right off. :D Imagine my horror after $12.00 worth of quarters, the truck still looked the same. (OK, a little bit of the sand was off, but the oil just sat there and laughed at me.) tongue.gif

Went home and got out the Dawn dishwashing liquid, and was really bummed, since now I would have to re-wax the truck since the Dawn would strip the polish off. I started on the tailgate, since it had the least amount of sand on it and... you guessed it, the oil was still there. It just smeared around with the Dawn. They use this stuff to clean up oil spills for cripes sake!

Now the Simple Green came out. I tried it in the wheel-well first... and still no luck, just smears. I haven't found anything yet that Simple Green didn't cleanup, so I headed down to city hall to find out what this crap was that they were using on the roads. (Of course no one could tell me what would take it off without damaging the paint.) Ended up having to take it to a detail shop, and they had some citrus-based remover (couldn't get the name of it :mad: ) that literally melted the oil off in front of my eyes, but didn't hurt the clearcoat at all. Found out the owner of the detail shop also owns a pavement sealing company, so they apparantly know what works. ;)

Anyway, I was disappointed that the Zaino didn't do a better job of making the oil easier to remove... and my question is, does anyone use a wax product that will seal the paint well enough to prevent road oil from sticking to the paint? :confused:

[ 08-19-2002: Message edited by: slapshot44 ]</p>

[deerhunter7]

Only Zaino&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;

[ItsMrBill]

slapshot44, in your situation, I do not think any product would of made a difference of having the oil come off.

Unlike a wax, the zaino product is a polish and not only gives the paint a great shine but adds protection as well. I have found my paint better protected from bird droppings, tree sap and other corrosive hazards using the zaino products.

I guess the big question is how well did the paint hold up after they lambasted it with heavy duty solvents? I would tend to think that a wax product would of been done with after washing the truck with dawn; never mind with citrus cleaner.

BTW, I have used WD40 to remove tar from my truck and it works great. It maybe a bit kinder to the paint than a citrus product.

I have tried many waxes and polishes in my time and am convinced that the Zaino product is about the best you can find.

[JimWilson]

mattb5150;

I used to do detailing as well, and I loved carnauba for how easy it went on and came off. It was also very friendly to all types of paint, whether or not it had a clear coat. But what I didn't like about it was the durability; it had none. Carnauba stopped beading way to quickly, and I found myself having to reapply it almost constantly.

Based up recommendations from a lot of people on this (and other) forums I just received my first order of Zaino. Weather permitting, I'm gonna try it this weekend. Any tips, from one expert to another? :D

[ 08-20-2002: Message edited by: JimWilson ]</p>

[01_Duramax_Dually]

&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;ZAINO&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;

The wax goes on easily and comes off clean.


If you have leather interior get their leather cleaner and softner. Great stuff.

I also use Zaino Car wash. Very nice compliment to their products and has some of the bases in it to add to the already nice shine.

I had used Mothers on my car and liked it also. WIll switch to Zaino on it soon as well.

Carry On.... :D

I wash my truck once a week.

[Vivayo]

Well, my truck is a month old and has 2,100 miles. So far, the ONLY thing I don't like is the paint job - 13.5MPG average ain't great but it's what I expected going in.
I usualy don't bother to wax my vehicles, but this one looks like it will need it. I've heard nothing but good reports about Zaino's shine but I'm more interested in protection than shine. Is there anything on the market that will improve the durability of the paint?
Thanks

[ItsMrBill]

JimWilson,

With your order of Zaino, a list of helpful tips will be provided. The most important thing is to remove your old wax from your vehicle. They recomend using Dawn diswhashing detergent.

If the paint of your vehicle contains rail dust or other impurities, you will need to clay it too. Other than that apply the Z1 let it dry and apply Z2 right on top of it. After the Z2 has dried, buff off and apply another coat of Z2.

I usually apply two coats of Z2 with the second coat remaining on overnight. The folks at Zaino mention that you can apply up to seven coats with each one building upon the previous coat. The more coats the "wetter" and "deeper" the shine.


Finally, get yourself some good cotton towels as buffing clothes. In the Zaino instructions, Sal will mention that this is one of the most important things to get in order for a great application.

[Piney]

I use the Best of Show wax from griotsgarage.com. They have an entire system from polishes to clay and I eventually intend to get their machine system.

[JimWilson]

ItsMrBill;

I've poured over the entire Zaino web site, and even exchanged a few emails with Sal, so I've seen that recommendation about the towels. He seems fairly adamant about that, so I was thinking I might head over to Walmart to see what they have. But I don't know if I'll actual do that though; I always use a buffer to put the wax on and to take it off. I have 100% cotton bonnets for application and 100% sheepskin ones for removing the wax. I'll probably keep doing it that way, primarily because a full-size CC with a cap is a heck of a lot of work! :D

[ItsMrBill]

JimWilson,

The most difficult part you will have with Zaino is the time it takes to dry. If you are looking to put the stuff on and buff it off right away, forget it. I have left my stuff on overnight. It comes off very easy without any streaks. It is just the "patient" part that slows you down.

As for the towels, if my memory serves me right I think Sal recommends egyption cotton towels. Rip the tags off them and wash them before you use them.

A buffer will do a great job with this stuff. Just make sure you have plenty of bonnets and change them often as you are buffing the stuff off.

I have heard it recommended to use their spray on agent while you are buffing the polish off. Although I have never tried it, my truck looks great just as is (two coats Z1+Z2, buff, Z2, buff).

[andy911]

I haven't come across Zaino here in Canada but I have used Zymol products (www.zymol.com) on all my vehicles for the last 5 years and am really pleased with them.

Like Zaino they have a complete care package with everything from wax to vinyl cleaner. Their products are not cheap (their wax will cost about $50 US) but I have yet to find anything that works so well and is so easy to apply.

The one thing I really like is that they use a very small amount of chemicals in their products and are mainly based on natural things like citrus, lanolin, etc. (and no, I'm not a tree hugger!!). Their wax's are Carnauba based but I have had no problems with durability provided that the paint is properly cleaned first.

Zymol have an 'HD Clense' that is a pre-wax treatment that removes old wax, oxidation and dirt in the surface of the paint leaving a silk-like finish. It's totally non-abrasive (unlike most such pre-wax cleaners :eek: ) but you'd be amazed the c**p it takes off a visibly clean and washed car. I'd recommend this product regardless of what wax you use. :cool:

My 911 was re-painted 14 years ago and I often get asked where I just had it done. I do admit that I will wax the car more than once through the summer, but once the initial clean/wax is done the extra coats go on very easily and add to the durability and depth of shine.

Just my 2cents worth. tongue.gif

Andy

[andy911]

...Oh yeah, I forgot. About the towel issue, I have used 100% cotton diapers which work really well and are relatively cheap to buy (if you can still find them!). The big issue with any waxing/cleaning cloth is that you wash them properly. Use a phosphate free detergent and don't use any dryer sheets in the dryer. My 'beloved' washes & dries them seperately - drives her nuts!! :D :D

Andy.

[mdrag]

ItsMrBill,

Sorry, I could not resist and do not mean this in a mean way, just having some fun with this topic ;) :D :

-------------------------------------------------
QUOTE:

"...two coats Z1+Z2, buff, Z2, buff..."

-------------------------------------------------

Let's see if I got that right:

T = 2 X (Z1 + Z2) + 1Z2 + 2B

Where:

T = time to complete the detailing job
B = Buff
Z1 = time to apply Zaino product Z1
Z2 = time to apply Zaino product Z2

It better look dern great after all of that ;)

Three or four coats of Collinite's insulator wax - or most other good waxes for that matter - (1 coat of wax applied every 3-4 months) will last at least 1 year plus, and I'd ventrue to say it will cost you at least 1/3 the price in terms of labor/money...(but what does this mean to someone who spent big $$$ on wheels/tires)...

But now that I've exhausted my list of mods :( , I may have the extra time on my hands...

Tastes Great!! Less Filling !

[moisheh]

THanks everyone for the replies. Looks like Dmax owners spend a lot of time and $$ waxing.

[Paintdude]

Zaino has a new product-activator for Z-5 and Z-2.....ZXF activator system...I just got my new stock order yesterday and it is used instead of Z-1...Must be mixed in small amounts and only keeps for 12 hrs in bottles they supply..

I have always used my zaino in these steps..Z-1, Z-5,Z-6 then Z-2..

I am assuming with the new activator you just use Z-5, Z-6 then Z-2..I think the activator is going to make the product not smear like it may have for some in the past and be more forgiving to non 100% cotton wife off cloths..

I will let you know when I get a chance to put another coat on my truck,car or motorcycle..

zaino rocks!!!!!

[motovet]

I have also tried MANY different products and think the Zaino stuff is first rate. The results are stunning (with a few coats) and it seems like it has slowed the paint chipping problem. The ZFX accelerator is a MUST with this stuff. With the accelerator you can skip the ZF-1 and the dry time is more like an hour or less so you can do a few coats in one day. It seems to be real durable, but then again I can't quit putting it on. I did get some fancy 100% cotton towels as directed. They are nicer than the ones we keep in our bathroom and only I seem to think that is appropriate. As already mentioned the leather stuff they carry is also an excellant product,seats always look and smell new.

[APR2000]

Paintdude,

I just used the Zaino ZFX. It accelerates the drying process of Z-5 and Z-2. Without it it can takes hours for the polish coats to dry. If it smears, it ain't dry enough yet. Now you can put on 3-5 coats in the same day. I put on Z-1, 2 coats of Z-5 and then Z-2 in about 4 hours. Great stuff! As I understand it, you don't mix it with Z-1. Zaino says always end with Z-2. All this "Z talk" may seem a bit confusing, but it all soon becomes CLEAR. You are one up on me though as you can "wife" the polish off. I wish I could get mine to "wife" mine off.

[Paintdude]

Oops..Wife off- wipe off...LOL!!!!!!I must of been thinking about saturday nite.. :D

My wife won`t touch the stuff..She sure likes her car after I Zaino it, though.. :D

[slapshot44]

I must admit that even though the Zaino didn't help with the oil removal, there is no damage to my paint from the removal process, which I will give credit to the Zaino polish for. I had the detail shop apply more Zaino on my truck instead of the polish they usually use. It looks as good as it did before the oil incident.

Since the fall semester for me starts next Monday, I will be glad to be the Zaino longevity tester, as I don't intend to apply any more until after Christmas at least. It will be just washes, with the Z6 spray afterwards. I also promise not to wash the truck more than twice a month...

My favorite thing about Zaino (besides the fantastic shine) is that you don't have to worry about all the powder that every other polish I have used leaves behind, and if you get any on the plastic, it doesn't leave any white stain behind. I used to hate waxing because I had to be so careful not to get any on the plastics, no I don't have to worry at all.

Also, JimWilson, I would'nt use a buffer to apply the Zaino with. You don't need it, that's the beauty of the Zaino. You don't have to "polish" it. Just make sure your truck is completely clean (wash with Dawn and clay bar the whole truck) before applying it. The you just wipe it on, no hard rubbing needed, wait for it to dry, and wipe it off, again no hard rubbing needed. Using a buffer would just waste a whole bunch of the polish. Also make sure you have sunglasses on when you wipe it off, or you may be blinded by the shine.

[Dinkie Diesel]

For Slapshot44,
I stumbled on a product by trying different things at work to wash our equipment. Zep is a huge company that makes some really awesome products. There are not cheap! You will more than likely see their stuff if you ever go to one of those half automated, half manned car washes. We use a product called TNT which stands for Truck and Trailer wash. If that doesn't take off the oil you speak of nothing will. I have to assume it doesn't harm the paint considering it's application. Very, very concentrated 1:200. Take a garden sprayer and put a 2 ounces of this stuff with 1-1/2 gallons of water. Spray it on and pressure spray it off immediately.....don't let it dry. I just take it with me to the self-service car wash and spray it on before I put my quarters in. It will literally take the bugs/juice completely off your windows, grill and bumper with out a trace left behind. Something about it makes the paint shine like nothing we've ever used before.

[slapshot44]

Thanks for the tip Dinkie Diesel. I was about to try the WD-40 trick, but the lady at the city office told me to go to a detail or paint shop, see what they could do, and if it wasn't too unreasonable, the city would reimburse me (they did.)

I do have other stuff that I'm sure would have taken the oil off, but I don't trust anything on clear coat until someone else tries it first. :D

I will look for the TNT at some local outlets where I've seen ZEP stuff before. Do you happen to know if it's safe for the wax coat or does it strip it off?

[Kennedy]

I use the products from www.liqui-tech.com on my HD and some day will get time to do my Dmax. I managed to do part of my '96 and could really tell the difference in the shine/depth of gloss.

On the black of the HD, the Finish Prep does a very good job of removing any surface imperfections.

[mattb5150]

The best recommendation I have for removing tar and oil is tar & bug remover from your local auto parts store. This is a regular solvent, spray some on a rag and start rubbing, then rewax. We used to use cotton diapers to apply and remove wax at the old detail shop.

Matt B.

[Dinkie Diesel]

Slapshot44,
Ocasionally I will use the TNT to get the big chunks off first and then go ahead and wash it with Meguire's shampoo afterward. It seems to continue to bead water. I do believe it has to be more harsh than car shampoo alone. Another great thing about TNT is how black and clean it makes all that plastic trim around the bumpers and door handles, etc. look. Also works great under the hood to make things look spankin'-new! I don't know what kind of luck you'll have finding it in a local retailer.

Incidentally, wouldn't using WD-40 warrant having to use something else to get the film off? I can't imagine car soap taking it off.

[Maxxheadroom]

Matt
I have been using Solvent X from P&S supply...works excellent to remove road tar quickly and effortlessly...even takes burnt on tar off the exhaust pipe in the rear in seconds

[AOPA Roger]

Instead of all the waxing, what about going to Ziebart and having them put thier paint protection on every year? I have been doing that with my D$$ge and the paint still looks pretty good!

[JimWilson]

Hey all you Zaino-philes... have you ever tried any of there products on the rims? I have the alloys on my truck and was wonder if any of it would work on those (without damaging them, of course!). ;)

[JimWilson]

Well, I test drove my first Zaino product this weekend -- the glass cleaner -- and can sum it up by saying; not impressed. Here's what I found out...

- It ain't effortless. Well, it's easy to apply/remove but it's time consuming, so perhaps that's a bit confusing. AAMOF, it took me over 2 hours to do a CC with a cap. You're essentially waxing your windows, and if done properly it takes awhile.

- It goes on differently depending upon the glass you're applying it to. For example, it spread *much* further, and more evenly, on the tinted windows then the ones without tint. I could use a very small amount 2-3 times to do the entire window for the rear doors (tinted) but it took twice that much for the front windows (not tinted). And it was completely different on the glass in the cap then it was on either type of the trucks windows.

- Don't get it on your plastic! In a few spots, especially on the dash around the windshield, a drop or two spilled. In a couple of locations the rag I was using for application wiped up against the molding. I was moving at a pretty good pace so I didn't get to cleaning it off for a few minutes, but waiting turned out to be a mistake because now it doesn't come off. I finally tried using a soft-bristled tooth brush and some hot water, which got most of it up, but there's still a stain or two. If you use this stuff near any textured plastic make sure you have a wet rag handy and wipe it off. Immediately.

- The "plasticizing" (the milky-white film that's on the inside of most modern automotive glass) it's supposed to be brilliant at removing wasn't removed good at all. Actually, it's no better then Windex at getting rid of that crap, and that's the main reason I bought it in the first place.

- Make sure you let it dry. A long time. A real long time. I applied it in the shade on an 80+ degree day and it still smeared on some windows after 15 minutes of drying time. Unfortunately, you don't see it until you look real close, so you think you're done for the day when you actually aren't.

- Make sure you have a lot of rags, more then you think you need. I tried using 1 bath towel to do all the inside and outside glass, but that wasn't enough. You could tell by the way the windows looked that it was starting to build up on the towel and made the smearing worse. I even got a fresh towel when I was all done and rebuffed each of the windows. I still see some smears.

I sure hope the polishes I bought are better, because so far I'm not thrilled with this stuff. :(

[ItsMrBill]

Jim, I have never used their glass cleaner so I cannot tell you if I have gotten the same results. However as for that film that you see on the inside of your winshield, do you use ArmorAll on your dash board? Or better yet a vinyl cleaning product that contains silicone? This stuff is the major cause of the so called "inside winshield fog" and can be attributed to how the stuff actually destroys your dash rather than help it.

You may want to try Protectant 303 as it helps preserve and delay the breakdown of the vinyl. You will see a lot less of the fog and have a better looking dash.

Many tonneau cover companies recommend Protectant 303 as it does not cause the vinly to shrink.

[JimWilson]

I don't use anything on the interior vinyl or plastic. I've found that most such products leave a film which is not only oily but attracts dust like a magnet. I go au natural! :D

Update from my previous post...

I tried the glass cleaner again last night, on the inside and outside of the windshield and the windows on both front doors. I let it sit on the glass for about 20 minutes so it would be thoroughly dry (it was also almost 80% when I did it). This morning I can see that the glass is a little cleaner, but not all the way. I'm still not impressed with this stuff... :(

[Paintdude]

The ZFX for Zaino is a must for first time users and others..I just did my S-10(110,000, black) and my wifes car(147,000, Black) yesterday afternoon...

All I can say is WOW! A quick wash, Quick claybar and apply the activated Z-5,Z-6 then the activated Z-2..Wipes off like regular wax,no more smears or waiting..

Sal hits a home run.. smile.gif

[Mark Bajus]

OK, dumb question, but never heard of it before....whats a "claybar", and what does it do?

[TxDoc]

ClayBar removes imbedded contamination from the paint finish that cannot be removed using conventional cleaning methods. It works like no cleaner, compound or chemical can and is safe for use on all paint finishes. The following contaminants are a general description of some of the contaminants that Z-18 ClayBar removes.

* Rail dust- is actually tiny, sharp bare metal shavings that can adhere and imbed to the paint finish and cause serious damage when left untreated. Over 70% of new vehicles are transported from the factory using the rail system, therefore rail dust is present on new vehicles. There are many instances where a vehicle travels or is parked near a railroad in which case the finish is infected with rail dust.
* Brake dust- similar to rail dust, brake dust is also in the form of tiny, sharp bare metal shavings. In recent years, asbestos brake pads were replaced with metallic brake pads, which are actually brake pads made from tiny metal or metallic shavings. Anytime a vehicle is braking; brake dust is disbursed into the air and onto the paint finish. Since the brake dust is now actually tiny particles of bare metal, this form of brake dust can seriously damage the paint finish when left untreated.
* Industrial fallout- is the general term used for pollution and can be found in many forms. Eventually, pollution settles onto the paint finish of all vehicles and can cause serious damage when left untreated.
* Tree sap, Road tar, Bug residue, Paint overspray, acid rain deposits and other contaminants that adhere and imbed into the paint finish can cause damage when left untreated.

Why you should use Z-18 ClayBar?

* Contaminants that are left untreated can weaken the protective properties and even cause serious damage to the paint finish after a short time.
* It is the only way to truly clean the paint finish and prepare the surface for protection with wax, polish and/or paint sealant. A "clayed" paint surface allows wax, polish and/or paint sealant to form a stronger bond to the paint finish.

From Mequiar's:

Using a clay bar to remove paint contamination.

What is paint contamination?

Paint contamination consists of tiny metal shavings from rail dust, brake dust and industrial fallout. This contamination affects all paint finishes and can cause serious damage when left untreated. Paint contamination can be felt as a "rough or gritty" texture on the paint's surface and can lead to tiny rust spots. This contamination can not be removed by washing, waxing and/or polishing.

Where does it come from?

There are three major causes of paint contamination:

1. Rail dust - produced from the friction of train wheels against railroad tracks. Over 70% of new vehicles are shipped by rail. Rail dust can contaminate a new car's finish before it even reaches the dealership. Anytime a vehicle is parked or travels near a railroad it is subject to rail dust contamination.

2. Brake dust - particles produced from the friction of brake pads rubbing against the rotor. This metal on metal friction disperses tiny particles of bare metal into the air and on the highway where it collects on passing vehicles.

3. Industrial fallout - another word for pollution, industrial fallout is a byproduct of our modern industrial age.

Prevention and removal:

Some automotive manufacturers now cover vehicles with plastic coverings during rail transportation. Unfortunately, this plastic only covers 40% to 60% of the vehicle and many vehicles are still transported with no covers.

There is no wax, natural or synthetic, or any chemical treatment that can prevent or protect against this contamination. Compounding with an abrasive polish may remove this contamination but it can only be performed a few times before removing too much of the top, clear coat finish.

The final solution, a special clay bar, was developed in Japan nearly five years ago. This clay safely removes rail dust and industrial fallout by "pulling" it off the surface. It does not "cut" or perform any abrasive action normally associated with polishing or compounding.

When clay bars were brought to the United States several other usages were found for them. Clay bars were found to be effective for removing overspray, tree sap, acid rain & water spots and a variety of other surface contaminants.

Today, clay bars are routinely used by professional detailers and body shops as a simple, safe way to remove overspray and surface contaminants from painted surfaces, chrome and glass.

New PolyClay Formulas:

The latest evolution in this technology is Pinnacle Poly Clay. These clay-like bars are made of entirely man made polymers. These bars perform all the functions of traditional clay bars but have a number of advantages:

1. Poly Clay does not dry out with age.

2. Poly Clay does not decompose with repeated applications.

3. A single non-abrasive grade works on all paint conditions yet is still clear coat safe.

4. Poly Clay is easier to work with. It pulls, stretches and refolds easier than normal clay.

5. Poly Clay leaves almost no residue on the surface making clean-up much easier.

How to use clay bars:

Clay bars should always be used on freshly washed, clean surfaces. Dirt on the surface could cause scratches.

Always use a lubricant such as Pinnacle Clay Lubricant with the clay bar. If a lubricant is not supplied with the bar you can use Eagle One Wet Wipe N' Shine, Meguiar's No. 34 Final Inspection, Eimann Fabrik Clear Pearl or a solution of 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of car wash shampoo in a spray bottle filled with water.

Work on areas about three square feet. Lightly mist the surface with the lubricant. Place the clay bar in the palm of your hand and rub it across the lubricated area using moderate pressure. (Hard rubbing is not required) You should feel a slight grabbing at first. As you rub, the bar should glide smoothly over the surface. When the bar moves freely you are done. Wipe the surface with a clean dry towel and continue in sections until the entire vehicle is complete.

As the bar becomes soiled, simply pull, stretch and refold to expose a new, clean side. When the bar becomes totally soiled (dark colored) discard it. A 2 oz. bar should clean at least 5 to 7 cars. Do not use a bar dropped on the ground.

Upon completion, spray the bar with lubricant and store in an airtight container or zip-lock storage bag.

Frequency of use:

Poly Clay will not remove paint or the clear coat finish. It can be used as often as necessary to keep the surface free of contamination and smooth.

Run your fingertips over the paint. If the paint has a rough or gritty texture it

[Mark Bajus]

wow! cool stuff, thanks Txdoc.

[TxDoc]

I meant to add this--I am skepitcal of things I have not tried and know firsthand. When I bought my first clay bar, I opened it and thought, "Boy, that was a waste of money". But, I followed the directions and think it is great. If all else fails, read the directions. So, just follow the manufacturer's directions and try it. I don't think you will be disappointed, but rather, you'll should be pleased. Good Luck!

[GBurton]

I was going to try Zaino bros wax but when I called them on the phone the person who I spoke with was not interested in talking to me. He asked me if I had seen their web page, which I had. He then told me that there was nothing that he could tell me that was not on the web page. He then asked me where I lived and gave me a name (Steve) and phone number of a dealer who lives about 200 miles from where I live. I figured that I would give it one more chance but Steve was going to be out of town for a week or two. Real customer service - right! :mad:

I then looked at the web page for Mequiar's and gave them a call. Complete different story, answered all of my questions. Real customer service, even explained some of the differences between their product and Zaino's products without putting the Zaino products down.

Guess who got my order? When will some people learn that "customer service" is what counts?

George

[mdrag]

This should liven up this discussion ;) :

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/gheumann/zaino_test/index.html

Be sure to read the reply from Zaino Bro., and the additional comments by the tester... :D

mdrag

[SoCalDMAX]

Mittie,

Stirring the pot a little are we?

OK, I'll give my standard answer: If this individual knew anything about applying wax (or performance cars for that matter) he wouldn't have bought that car.

JUST KIDDING! :D

OK, let's assume he really didn't see any difference between the 2 waxes. I've applied both brands, and IIRC, the Zaino was easier to apply and produced no residue whatsoever. I believe the Meguiars produces a little bit of powdery residue. That alone would sway me more towards the Zaino.

So far, I've waxed the truck twice and washed it 5 times in the 10 months I've had it. It always looks clean, but this color hides dirt far better than black does. The Zaino is keeping it's shine and water still beads off great, even though the poor truck bakes in the SoCal sun all of the time. I like Zaino, probably will continue to use it for the reasons above.

Stay tuned, next month he's gonna do a showdown between Collinite and Simonize... ;) It'll be your turn in the barrel. :D

Regards, Steve

[mdrag]

If it works for you and you are satisfied - that is all that really matters.

I'm just trying to present other, and IMHO, good options in this one sided discussion on car care products.

Why does everyone compare a single application or coat of Brand X to the 2 or 3 step Zaino process? A very basic and simple observation in this whole discussion is that to complete the Zaino application requires two or three different steps or applications (or more, not counting clay bar use). Then the amazement that it looks better and is more durable....

I waxed my truck ONCE with the Collinite #845 insulator wax - and that was August 2001 (8K miles ago). Frequent washings - at least every two weeks - and sometimes more often. Sure, I'm not racking up the miles like BROKER - but that mileage included 2 weeks in OH and PA with much snow and road salt, along with the searing sun/heat of OK.

I noticed plenty of beading action remaining this weekend when I washed the truck - the only place water is not beading is around the fuel filler area due to a few 'accidents' while refueling ...At this rate - three coats of #845 would last me three years :D I guess the 'silicon' oils in my wax did not boil off in the many 100+ degree days in the OK sun ;) ...

Then again, my truck is the rare light pewter and not a dark color...and it may be that the 'shine' just sticks better to it :D

Tastes Great!!Less Filling!!!

mdrag

[SoCalDMAX]

I am usually the type who has to see it to believe it. Comparisons like the one you pointed out are what I like to see, for real proof, since mfrs can (and do) claim just about anything.

So I'll take the Porsche owner's test as proof that Zaino doesn't reduce swirl marks or produce a better shine than Meguiar's Gold Class does. I also concede your point that a 1 step process is a lot less work than a 3 step process. I'll even take your word for it that the Collinite is holding up great after 1 yr. of use.

Knowing how well you research everything, I'll try out the Collinite when I get close to running out of the Zaino wax. After all, it was word of mouth that got me to try the Zaino.

Now what I really want to know is... how did you train your wife to cut the grass??... if I could learn that trick, I'd teach mine to wax all the cars! :D

Regards, Steve

[TxDoc]

I have some un-used Collonite-Super Doublecoat Auto Wax, Liquid Sapphire Auto Wax, and Liquid Insulator Wax. I used it on a black, garaged, weekly washed M-B. It repelled water fine, but had a "faded" look shortly. Let me know before you buy, and I will try to get it down and send it to you.

I have used Mother's pure carnube and Meguiar's and Zymol.

Any material has to be somewhat technique sensitive. What works fine in one's hands may be a disaster in another's. If you give ten people ten identical welders and the same metal, you will not get ten identical welds. The guy in the article may not apply and wait and remove and evaluate the results as everyone else may.

Best to try different products with your technique on your specific application (vehicle) and see what works best for you.

[mdrag]

SoCalDMAX,

Eliminating swirl marks from the finish is, IMHO, a different issue. My replies up to this point were in reply to waxes or protectants...

As for swirl marks most noticable on dark colors, waxing alone ain't gonna do it. Clay bar the finish, then use Meguires #9 Swirl Remover or #7 Show Car Glaze - applied with plenty of elbow grease/machine buffer FOLLOWED by the wax/protectant of your choice. There's no free lunch when it comes to removing swirl marks - it's going to take plenty of effort...BTW, #7 and #9 ARE used by professional paint shops. I've seen 1 week old paint jobs prepped with #7 prior to customer delivery....

Unfortunately, the very fine scratches that are the 'swirls' are going to reappear - from routine washing and drying, or even the on/off of a car cover - and the process needs to be repeated at least 2 to 3 times a year (depending on use) to keep a black vehicle free of swirls and maintain a 'show car' finish :( Since I infrequently drive my black car - this is a once every 12-18 month ritual, and not yet performed on the Dmax - the Dmax has seen only 1 coat of wax...

For the real anal types:

Washing with a mild car wash using a boar's hair brush, drying with the softest cotton towels (avoid chamois) - will delay the swirls reappearence - but they will reappear. Avoid using high pressure self serve car washes, and NEVER use automatic car washes.

The above is a BIG reason I WANTED the rare light pewter color for my truck - I've had my fill trying to keep the dark colors swirl free. Of course the swirls are occuring on the lighter colors, but much less noticable and easier to ignore...

As for the grass cutting issue...sorry, I can't reveal all my tricks... ;)

TxDoc,

I have a 17 year old Porsche (RED) and a 12 year old MB (BLACK), and both finishes are definitely NOT cloudy using Collinite's products. It sounds like oxidation may be a problem with your paint, and #9 Meguires should help considerably - followed by the wax of your choice. You did not mention the age of your MB, but I'd venture a guess that that it is older and pre-dated base coat/clear coat finishes. If not, maybe a combination of product build up caused the haziness - and buffing with #9 would still be in order...

As you pointed out, everyone's results will vary.

Next up: Waxing the exterior of a two story house :eek:

Wax ON! Wax OFF!! tongue.gif

mdrag

[AbqGeorge]

Hmmmm, two pages worth and no one mentioned "NuFinish" or "RainX"

I'm too old to spend days waxin' 'em smile.gif

[mackin]

Wax ,

My input is listen to the guys, gals with dark colored trucks that sit out and get UV blasted every day .......Not Pewter garaged truck(s) (Mdrag) that one needs a white glove to see if it's dirty, or not, even after it's driven in the rain......Never rains in southern California like the song says (Socal).......Just kidding guys, but you guys don't count with Pewter trucks...... tongue.gif Black trucks rule,in the paint department.........

The sun Blazzing surface temp on a Black truck is untouchable........This will shorten the life span of the wax extremely quick.....
"ZAINO" nuff said,Holds up the best I've seen for this.....Quality on a BLACK finish takes time..No short cuts.....I too was a big Meguires fan till I was turned on to Zaino.....Never have I heard the compliments on the paint finish that I do know with Zaino.....I have owned 4 Black trucks in the last decade...... :eek: Only two I've used Zaino on, and I see the difference.....Lead up to 2/3 coats of Z-5 ,polish it off with some Z-6 quick detailer, and this is the "SLIPPERIEST" surface know to man kind,"FLYS" will crash land or slide off the hood circle back for another approach.......

I like the quick detailer in Zaino better then Meguires leaves no haze after applying use this after a wash to bring the luster back up.....Nuff of that......


I was in Auto Zone and seen a new Meguires product ,"Scratch X"......It claims to remove swirl marks and fine scratches, all that can be done by hand only.....If it can't be done by this product then a machine buffer must be used.....I would normally use a 3M Hand Glaze product the dealers uses, or some new (My dealer's body shop uses it) funky stuff that isn't water soluble in a yellow container and I'm not going down to the garage for the name.....So Anyone try, seen, "SCRATCH X"???? Or am I guinea pigging it alone, again?????

MAC :D

It is NON abrasive and will NOT put scratches in,(so it said) but is a filler like the 3m stuff (so I say).......I squeezed a little out between my fingers and it isn't abrasive..SSSSSSHH don't tell....... :rolleyes:

[ 09-20-2002: Message edited by: mackin ]</p>

[Paintdude]

mdrag, first thing I noticed is the Porshe guy applied the zaino front to rear on the side of the unit..you go up and down on the sides all side viewed stuff..It makes a difference on getting ride of the swirls..

He should read the directions to do a real test..