setting up a 2500HD/3500 for sled pulling

[mtomac]

1. Energy suspensions Hyper-Flex Urethane bushing kit for the front end (should help keep the front end straight and true going down the track)

2. Beef up the tie rods using thicker steel tubing or using cromoly tubing the same thickness as stock or possibly cyro treat the stockers (should help keep the front end straight and true going down the track)

3. Add a steering stabilizer (cuts down on steering wander)

4. Eaton e-lockers front and rear (if truck doesn't have G80) *only lockers available right now, rear e-locker to be released in '04*

5. Traction bars/ladder bars in the rear so you're not wasting power thru the springs, eliminates axle wrap (get the frame mounted bars instead of the spring mounted slapper type)

6. Ditch the stock shocks if you haven't already and put some adjustable Rancho's or Pro Comp ones on. *Put them at their highest setting front and rear for pulling*

7. *Have a set of tires and rims just for pulling and switch when you get there*
- For softer tracks get the widest and tallest MT 8-10 ply tire you're confortable with putting under the truck. Biased ply is even better (sidewalls won't flex).
- For harder tracks wide tires will float so use the tallest narrowest 8-10 ply AT tire or bias ply tire you're confortable with putting under the truck.
- Use the widest recomended rim for the tire
- Don't worry if the tires rub a little lock to lock, don't make sharp turns in the pits and remember you will be going straight down the track.

8. Build a front weight bar coming out of the frame where the tow hooks are (chevies always need to add weight to make the weight class, put all weight up front) *if hanging front weights are not allowed put some in the cab on the floor or in the front of the box*

9. Get a vertically adjustable pintle hitch style loop receiver hitch and set it at the maximum allowed height.

[ 03-28-2003: Message edited by: Micheal Tomac ]</p>

[matt-max]

thanks for the info.

what are your thoughts on tire psi and transfer case range to be used?

matt

[TN farmer]

Micheal,

Thanks for the tips some of them I had never considered changing, but I do see where it would benefit.

Here in TN they are not as strict on rules because there are not as many trucks interested. There are no weight restrictions, you can block the rearend, and run whatever hitch height you want. We also pull with gas burners and some diesels are running propane.

What were your thoughts of seeing blackjet pull in OH and is this where you got some of these ideas. Also do you know what changes he has made for hp numbers? Robert

[mtomac]

I would run high range 1st gear maybe 2nd if you have the power and the track isn't biting. Speed is the name of the game in sled pulling. You want some momentum going when the box comes up. Low range is too slow unless you're in third, but shifting is hard on the tranny and the driveline under full load in 4wd with all 4 tires biting.

I would run max pressure in back to help cut down on bounce which can come from the rear suspension and the tire. Ideally a solid suspension (blocked) is the way to go if the rules allow it. Most places require 1-2" rear suspension travel. The more the rear end squats (suspension or tires) the more hitch height you lose going down the track. I would run max inflation up front too if you have weight hanging up there. Tire pressure will vary with the track. A harder track will require more air, a softer track will require less air. Ideally you want your holes to be flat on the bottom. Too much air will give you a hole that looks like smiley's mouth smile.gif and too little air will give you a hole that looks like :(

Most of the basic pulling principles in tractor pulling are the same as truck pulling. Alot of the places I pull tractors have 4wd truck classes as well. So I've pickup up what works and what doesn't by watching and talking to some of the truck pullers where I pull.

I did realize something from watching blackjets 6" lifted truck go straight and true down the track. A good IFS lift kit has key components that are beneficial in truck pulling so adding those components to a stock truck would help tremendously.

At the pull Blackjet was running the 125hp Hot juice, DD 75hp injectors (lots of smoke) with intake & exhaust mods. He also has a 120hp PCM and a duramaximizer but I think he had one or both turned off.

[ 03-29-2003: Message edited by: Micheal Tomac ]</p>

[TN farmer]

Micheal,

Any plans to pull your truck or are you going to stick to drag racing? Your 1/8 mile time is impressive the best I could run was a 9.35, going to try it again next week with less weight in the bed.

[mtomac]

To go faster at the dragstrip I need to start stacking boxes or run propane and upgrade the tranny ATS stage I&II ($3900 installed). So I'm looking at going pulling. I think I can get the truck setup for pulling for less $$ than I would cost to do the tranny.