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TurboDiverArt
01-02-2004, 04:15
Hi All,

I read all the articles at the top of this forum, great reading. I understand the tow ratings that GM published were a little on the conservative side. I've been told that the reason for the limitation was mostly because of the engine output being rated for a total towing weight of 14,000-15,000 lbs. (truck plus trailer).

The question is, are the tow ratings that underrated? If you increase the output of the engine (computer, exhaust, injectors, etc.) can you tow more? Is the tow rating set by GM assuming mountain towing so it'll tow anywhere in the US? I would be towing almost always on flat terrain. Maybe once or twice a year I would hit a small grade but I'd doubt it would be more than about 2-3% and only for about a mile or so at highway speed. Still mostly flat. The biggest load I would ever be towing would be a 24ft enclosed car trailer that weighs maybe 8000 loaded. Most of the time it'll be an open car trailer weighing about 5000 lbs.

I plan to eventually put some upgrades in the truck. Definitely an exhaust, injector and ECM upgrade are in the plans.

Thanks,
Art.

[ 01-02-2004, 06:01 AM: Message edited by: TurboDiverArt ]

MikeC
01-02-2004, 23:09
Art,

I currently tow a 9500# (loaded) Cardinal 31' bunkhouse. Scaled out the combo grosses at 17,000. I have about 850# tongue weight. The Burban does OK but we sure know the trailer is there. It has 3.73 rear end.

I saw no info on your truck but if it is a 3/4 ton it has 1 ton brakes so stopping should be OK with decent trailer brakes in the mix.

It seems that the rating is due to power not necessarily the ability overall to handle the trailer weights. I tow from Ohio south which does involve the mountains. My truck is in the readers rig section but the trailer I now have is heavier and taller. I am yet to tow in the mountains since my most recent add ons, but once I do there may be another article coming.

Mike

tanker
01-03-2004, 03:16
Hi Art, I also go along with Mike above. I'm now towing a higher, longer, and heavier trailer than before. My trailer empty is 9700 lbs, with a gross weight of 11,500 lbs. I weighed at a truck stop in October and truck and trailer came in at 18,200 lbs, which by GM standards is off the rickter scale. :rolleyes: I'm sure factory ratings take in horse power, torque, brakes, and a host of other so called, weak links in the chain. My previous trailer in the towing article above, was a 30' Jayco, and I grossed about 14,000 lbs. Our new Holiday Rambler is just under 34', and we have only been South into Virginia, and up into the Catskills of New York, so no big mountains yet. With our previous trailer we crossed the Rockies a few times without problems. I think the biggest problem is brakes on the GM suburbans, you must keep the rear adjusted up, have good pads up front, and have trailer brakes that work well. You should be fine with what you plan on towing, however the quest for more power will continue. Exhaust, air filter, gauges (a must ;) ) and continue on as money becomes available. You will not speed up I-78 or I-287 on those hills, but you will get there on time. Wish you well with your suburban. smile.gif
Pictures of our unit are in the photo contest above.

TurboDiverArt
01-03-2004, 20:32
Thanks for the replies. My Burb is a K2500 so has the bigger brakes. Makes me feel a little better knowing that if and when I get to use my friends enclosed trailer I'll be able to haul it. I'm never in much of a hurry when towing so if I slow down a big on hills I'm OK with that.

Thanks again for all the replies!

Art.

schamp
01-09-2004, 04:25
I tow a 33 Jayco with my 2500. Lets face it, the brakes on these things (without a trailer) are just plain weak. My stops better with the Jayco attached. One thing not mentioned above was wind resistance. Wind resistance while towing is a big factor on the transmission and engine temps. Wind at you back helps but with the high front on the trailer your pushing you way through. Guages really are a must. On the transmission. I would think you have the 4l80E. I generally tow in 3rd unless on really flat ground. The bands in the tranny for the OD are not much and IMO were not meant for towing. Around here it cost 1800 to pull and completly rebuild the 4L80E and 1500.00 to rebuild a 4L60E.
I think we all would love to have the Brembo brakes, 17 inch wheels, larger rotors, larger disks, rear disks, but at a price of aroud 4,000.00. You have to buy new tires and wheels. I have heard that the Brembo setup makes the suburban stop 40% better or stop as they should. Good luck. Spencer

Turbine Doc
01-12-2004, 19:31
Art,
On occasion I've gone as high as 18,700 with mine, GN trailer with tractor & implements, I added all mods seen on TDP plus 25K rated aux trans cooler, Roadmaster rear spring assist, drilled rotors, hi perf pads/shoes and braided stainless brake hoses, will go to 3/4 or 1T suspension once I find a good one at reasonable price. Tuned the 6.5 is plenty you should have no problems just be aware of surroundings and think ahead for stops.

TurboDiverArt
01-13-2004, 03:42
Thanks for the info. Most of my towing will be 25 miles to and from the track on flat roads. Doubt I'll ever be going faster than 50 MPH so I'll probably keep it in drive the whole way. I'm never in that much of a hurry.

I don't think I'll go crazy with the mods. Probably injectors (since mine have 120K on them), exhaust, trans shift controller and maybe an ECM re-flash if it turns out to be all that it's supposed to be.

Thanks again for the input!
Art.

MikeC
01-13-2004, 10:20
Art,

Don't forget gauges. They are the only way to tell if a reflash, which increases boost and fueling, is too much at any given time in a hard pull.

Mike

Turbine Doc
01-13-2004, 12:37
Art,
As you've seen elsewhere gauges are a must if you plan on any towing, a boost control is a cheap power upgrade once you get exhaust opened up to take advantage of it, stock ECM program clips boost just about the time you need it. Are you a L56(EGR) engine another free mod you can do is open up upper intake plenum for better air flow (which is key to making Diesel power)see this link http://myweb.cableone.net/tbogemirep/ about halfway down on my IC install page to see what I'm talking about.

HowieE
01-13-2004, 14:26
Art
Feel free to get in touch and we can set up a time that you can drive down and you can see first hand what I have done to make my truck very confortable with it's load. E mail addres on my site.

TurboDiverArt
01-13-2004, 19:15
Originally posted by HowieE:
Art
Feel free to get in touch and we can set up a time that you can drive down and you can see first hand what I have done to make my truck very confortable with it's load. E mail addres on my site. I'll do that Howie, thanks. Need to get the truck back from the dealer. Waiting for them to decide that the stalling is caused by the IP and change it under warrantee.

Art.

rjschoolcraft
01-14-2004, 20:49
See this thread (http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=005059#000028) for a discussion of my Suburban's towing performance.