Quack_Addict
07-25-2005, 08:25
I'm no expert on trailer brakes, so please bear with me...
I have trailered my 23' Rinker twice this summer. The trailer has 10" hydraulic surge brakes on the REAR AXLE ONLY. The trailer, boat and gear together weigh approximately 7000 lb. I acquired the boat/trailer about 2 years ago and one of the first things I did was put all new brakes and a new master cylinder onto it. I towed the boat perhaps 2000 miles last year after installing the new brakes. The first trip with it this year, a 400 miles round trip, the RH trailer brake only made it 395 miles of it (the shoes bound up, broke the wheel cylinder and sprayed brake fluid all over the shoes); I had to baby it the last 5 miles home. During tear-down, the RH side was missing 100% of the brake lining, the LH side had some lining left on the shoes but was down to steel in other areas. These brakes had less than 2500 miles on them.
Anyhow, since the brake failure I have replaced all the brake components on the rear axle. I also installed all new wheel bearings. The drums were turned before installing them. I think the inner wheel bearings are 1-3/8" and the outers are 1-1/16" inside diameter. All the wheel bearings - on the axle with brakes and the one without - showed evidence of high heat. The bearings are greased (Bearing Buddy) before every trip, so lubrication isn't the problem.
This past weekend, I pulled the boat 200 miles, mostly highway. When I got to the campground, the rancid permeating stench of overheated brakes was obvious as soon as I got out of the truck. I poured a touch of water onto the brake axle hubs and the water boiled right off. The next day, I pulled the Bearing Buddy rubbers off and a bunch of the grease had pushed its way out of the Buddy into the caps.
I have done my fair share of brake jobs on vehicles and set the trailer brakes up the same as on a truck with drum rears - turn the shoe adjuster out until the pads just start to drag on the drum.
Have I done something wrong?
Is the master cylinder adjustable (or possibly out of adjustment)?
I'm almost ready to remove the brake system and simply install hubs on the rear axle to get away from the trailer brake issues.
What about splitting the break line and installing brakes on the front axle as well - will the master cylinder on the trailer push enough fluid volume to make 4 brakes work? My philosophy is that four brakes would distribute the braking force over 4 wheels instead of 2 and thereby reduce the heat in the rear brakes.
Are these axles heavy enough for this application (do they sound like 2000 lb axles)? The bearings and races on the rear axle showed more heat wear than the front axle bearings, but the front axle still got hot... I'm thinking the bearings aren't meant to handle this amount of weight.
ANY help, input and/or opinions on this matter are GREATLY appreciated!
I have trailered my 23' Rinker twice this summer. The trailer has 10" hydraulic surge brakes on the REAR AXLE ONLY. The trailer, boat and gear together weigh approximately 7000 lb. I acquired the boat/trailer about 2 years ago and one of the first things I did was put all new brakes and a new master cylinder onto it. I towed the boat perhaps 2000 miles last year after installing the new brakes. The first trip with it this year, a 400 miles round trip, the RH trailer brake only made it 395 miles of it (the shoes bound up, broke the wheel cylinder and sprayed brake fluid all over the shoes); I had to baby it the last 5 miles home. During tear-down, the RH side was missing 100% of the brake lining, the LH side had some lining left on the shoes but was down to steel in other areas. These brakes had less than 2500 miles on them.
Anyhow, since the brake failure I have replaced all the brake components on the rear axle. I also installed all new wheel bearings. The drums were turned before installing them. I think the inner wheel bearings are 1-3/8" and the outers are 1-1/16" inside diameter. All the wheel bearings - on the axle with brakes and the one without - showed evidence of high heat. The bearings are greased (Bearing Buddy) before every trip, so lubrication isn't the problem.
This past weekend, I pulled the boat 200 miles, mostly highway. When I got to the campground, the rancid permeating stench of overheated brakes was obvious as soon as I got out of the truck. I poured a touch of water onto the brake axle hubs and the water boiled right off. The next day, I pulled the Bearing Buddy rubbers off and a bunch of the grease had pushed its way out of the Buddy into the caps.
I have done my fair share of brake jobs on vehicles and set the trailer brakes up the same as on a truck with drum rears - turn the shoe adjuster out until the pads just start to drag on the drum.
Have I done something wrong?
Is the master cylinder adjustable (or possibly out of adjustment)?
I'm almost ready to remove the brake system and simply install hubs on the rear axle to get away from the trailer brake issues.
What about splitting the break line and installing brakes on the front axle as well - will the master cylinder on the trailer push enough fluid volume to make 4 brakes work? My philosophy is that four brakes would distribute the braking force over 4 wheels instead of 2 and thereby reduce the heat in the rear brakes.
Are these axles heavy enough for this application (do they sound like 2000 lb axles)? The bearings and races on the rear axle showed more heat wear than the front axle bearings, but the front axle still got hot... I'm thinking the bearings aren't meant to handle this amount of weight.
ANY help, input and/or opinions on this matter are GREATLY appreciated!