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DickWells
06-10-2005, 18:26
My converter in my Sunline trailer just bit the dust the other day. My niece and her two kids were staying in it for a couple of weeks. The lights went dim, and she called me out there to take a look. Everything dead. I chased it down to the converter, and got the thing going for the night by putting a small 6 amp charger on the battery.
The begining of the rest of the story is like this. I went to the trailer dealer's place, and they didn't have the right converter. Seems Sunline uses a different one from most makes. Mine was a single output one, which is (supposed) to be a little more expensive and a little better. I guess you get cleaner power, when you are drawing from the battery at all times, rather than from the converter without the battery in-line to smooth things out, like with the dual output converter. That's what my RV DIY book says.
Well, I bought Wal Mart's best battery charger, and hard wired it into my trailer. It (seems) to be working perfectly. Keeps the battery up at about 13.6 - 13.8 V, just like my old converter did, and goes to float mode when there's no draw.
Has anyone else done this sort of thing, and if so, what was your outcome? Am I missing something here? I paid $90 bucks instead of close to $300, to get the thing working essentially the same as it's worked for five years. It runs real cool, there, under the couch, and charges at the 2 amp rate when it kicks on with no load being drawn in the trailer. It cycles more frequently, but it isn't over powering the battery.
Have I done right, or am I creating a potential problem? Any comments? Can I consider this the end of the story?
Dick Wells

DmaxMaverick
06-10-2005, 19:00
I've done the battery charger thing more than once, but it is/was temporary. They just aren't designed for the duty cycle and conditions required. In the best case, it will just stop charging or kill your battery(ies). Worse case, start a fire. The battery charger I've used temporarily is a high-dollar charger on wheels. It is adjustable from 2 to 400 amps, and has a maintenance/trickle cycle. I don't think the portables that would fit under your couch would have a chance over any length of time.

Have a look at THIS STORE (https://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/newstore/no****/index.cfm) for excellent products, service and prices. I've bought a couple converters from them, and they worked well out of the box, and still do. All the stuff I've purchased from them was, at least, RV showroom quality.

jspringator
07-28-2005, 07:34
I used a Tripp Lite aps 2012 inverter charger in place of the converter. I also have a Wal*Mart charger that is a 3 stage smart charger. If yours is like mine, there should be no problem when used as a recreational vehicle. I don't know if this or anything else on the trailer is designed for permanent living.

MTTwister
07-28-2005, 13:01
Can I ask a stupid question? If you can run an extension cord out to the trailer for the battery charger, why not just plug the trailer in?

DmaxMaverick
07-28-2005, 13:36
Originally posted by MTTwister:
Can I ask a stupid question? If you can run an extension cord out to the trailer for the battery charger, why not just plug the trailer in? Plug into what? The problem is...the converter that provides 12V power, and battery charge has gone south. A camper/TT/coach is 90% 12V power. Very little actually operates on 110V. On later models, even the appliances need 12V power to operate, regardless of the final power use. For example, Dometic refrigerators are capable of using either A/C power or gas. Problem is, the circuitry is 12V, and is required for either. Pilotless water heaters, furnaces, and refers need 12V for the ignitors. 110V ground power operates a couple light bulbs, A/C, converter (or charger in above case), and the heat elements in A/C refer and water heater.

Get it?

BTW:
Not a stupid question.