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Rockin
03-24-2004, 08:05
We are getting ready to use our living quarters on our new horse trailer. It is currently winterized. I've found information saying to flush the fresh water. Check for a plug in the water heater and that is it to get it ready. I've figured we also need to get propane. What else is needed to be ready to use?

1. water heater plug
2. flush water through fresh tank
3. propane
4. Cool down refrigerator 8 hours before use

What about black tank chemicals? Batteries are charged. Trailer is new so bearings are packed etc.

MikeC
03-24-2004, 09:11
Rockin,

De-winterization depends on whether it was blown out or if RV antifreeze was added. If it was blown out, just pressurize and flow water, hot and cold, to assure the plumbing is filled and all drains are closed. If it has RV antifreeze in it you will want to flush the system, again hot and cold. The claim is the RV stuff is tasteless and non-toxic but my family claims it leaves a taste behind

Chemicals for the waste tank are easy. Determine the volume of your waste tank and add as directed on the container. I always add about a gallon of water with the chemicals just to have a little volume in to start. The hardest thing is picking a product, but you can get chemicals at Meijer's, Walmart, etc..

RV TP is also designed to breakdown faster and not clump in the tank causing problems later.

If you have not used propane before you will need to bleed gas to any appliance you have. This can take a while (to get the pilot lit) so be patient.

Finally, for the fridge. Put a few items in it, like cans of pop, when you start it. They will work like a "cold sink" which makes my fridge appear to cool faster. Also, if the trailer has an RV unit you can leave it on and it will run using propane while on the road.

Anything not clear or if you need more info let me know,

Mike

DBlake
03-24-2004, 09:13
Rockin,
After having an RV for about 8 years now, I've learned to never run a dry black-water tank unless winterized. Put a gallon or two in it, then some chemicals. When using, never keep the valve open and let in drain into the hose/sewer connection. Instead, open and drain it when full. Otherwise you will get solid material built up on the sides of the tank an it will start to smell. Flush your fresh water lines with your water pump vice a "city" water connection. This ensures no A/F gets in your F/W tank. Flush cold side first to minimize A/F in your H/W heater. Have fun...

Rockin
03-24-2004, 09:52
Thank you. It is a new LQ horse trailer. I'm not sure how it was winterized from the factory. I see pink stuff in the toilet though. Guess I'll just flush fresh water through.

Any recommendations on waste chemicals? I prefer to not use really harsh chemicals if possible. Wife will really notice smells. How do you best put water in waste tank? Through toilet?

GBurton
03-24-2004, 11:38
Rockin asked "How do you best put water in waste tank? Through toilet?"

The "Black Water" tank is normally only filled by the toilet. The only way to add the necessary few gallons of clean water to the tank is through the toilet. The only exception that I know about is if you have a "Black Water" tank flushing connection. That is a system that uses outside clean water, not from the RV supply, to help flush the "Black Water" tank while you are draining it. It is an option on some trailers and standard on others. It is an option that in most cases you can add to your trailer. If your "Black Water" tank is enclosed it is a bit of a job to add it.

I agree 100% with the comment that DBlake made. Do not leave your "Black Water" dump valve open and let the tank drain while you are using the trailer. All of the fluids will drain, leaving the solids to build up. That can turn into a real mess over a period of time. Worst case is when people live in a trailer for several years and all of a sudden the toilet doesn't flush. In most cases the only solution is to replace the "Black Water" tank, FYI our local RV shop will NOT touch that type of a problem, if you understand what I mean. I doubt that a weekend will cause a lot of trouble but I have found that it is much better if you dump when the tank is better that 50% full.

George

MTTwister
03-24-2004, 12:28
Rockin - Check to see if they've plumbed in a set of valves for a Hot Water Heater bypass. Could be, would be, in the cold water feed to the hot water tank, and tying across to the hot water out line.

When you winterize the water system, diverting around the water heater will save you the 6 gal needed to fill the water heater. ( Be sure to drain the water heater for winter storage).

peachin
03-24-2004, 13:49
ODORLOS - BEST CHEMICAL - NO PERFUME

only downside, will not clean sensors - after you dump and before you drive - put in 10 gallons of water - a bottle of Murphy's Oil Soap - a small bottle of simple green and drive - nothing cleans out those tanks like that combo - Whistle clean - remember small bottle of simple green and 10 gallons of water - and the amount of Murphy's - of course the more the better.
This cleaning process is not necessary every time
maybe once every 10 dumps or when you drive off - a warm day makes everything work better.

tanker
03-24-2004, 17:00
I always put about 5 gallons of water and the chemical into the black tank through the hopper. If your wife objects to a chemical smell, wait until she smells it without! :D Just kidding. Traveling will help aggitate the solids and liquids. Low liguids, slow drainage. :eek: To help keep it clean etc., prior to going on a trip, we dump our ice-maker box into the black tank just before we leave. The ice will clean the inside of the tank from motion, and will melt. Don't mix different chemical's try to stay with one kind. Use a biodegradable tissue, or RV tissue, don't throw anything else down there, like paper towels, napkins, garbage, etc. Just human waste, and tissue.
On the hot water heater, make sure it is full of water,(pushing out the safety valve) prior to igniting. Most newer trailers have bypass valves, for winterizing. You want to drain the hotwater heater in winter for storage, then turn the 2-way bypass valves when installing the RV antifreeze.
I would not drink the water without first sanitizing the water system with bleach, per instructions in your manual. You did not mention a manual. All the trailers I've owned had a book, and booklets for each appliance in the trailer. Read it and get familiar with eveything prior to setting. Do a dry run at home. IE: sleep in it plug it in etc. then there won't be any surpises on the road. Enjoy your new home. ;)

stolley
03-27-2004, 11:08
I could not have become a full-time Rver as successfully without Phred Tinseth's "Poop Sheets". smile.gif Excellent info about everything concerning RVs. Here's the link:
http://www.phrannie.org/phredex.html
See the "Macerators and Other Sewage Stuff" topic.
Basically... I skip the chemicals and just dump about every 3 days in hot weather, 4-5 days when cold. Install a external flusher. Buy Scott Tissue at Walmart... special "RV tissue" is not needed.
Congrats on your new rig!