View Full Version : SOL-D - DS4 Solenoid Driver & 6.5TD Reliability
More Power
10-28-2004, 09:22
SOL-D
DS4 Solenoid Driver & 6.5TD Reliability
Product Review: The SOL-D module from RemarQ is a complete redesign of the original Stanadyne FSD (Fuel Solenoid Driver) module using automotive and military grade Mosfet power transistor technology. We're interested in solutions to problems. Certainly, any innovative product deserves our full attention which promises to address the FSD related stalling issues affecting the electronically fuel injected 6.5L diesels. Visit the above link to learn more about improving 6.5TD reliability.
MP-
You should set thread this so it stays at the top for a while.
Basshopper
10-28-2004, 21:19
I would be interested in knowing how the performance and mileage of the vehicle using this new device is affected???
thanks in advance for the info
any idea whether RemarQ will be including an actual connector in future production models, or will the install always require a splice job?
More Power
10-29-2004, 14:32
Ron should be getting the sample module either tomorrow or Monday. He's planning to shoot a couple photos of the installation, then run a few tests to determine whether there are any changes in startability, driveability, and performance. His findings will be added to the introduction piece currently running, along with periodic updates for the next twelve months. Once summer arrives, we'll collect some temperature data to complement the wrap-up.
I hope this is the answer to the DS problem, but you'll get the straight scoop either way. Also, people who buy them should add their comments here in the BB to keep all of us better informed.
There are rumors of an installed electrical connector at some point in the future. Deciding whether or not to wait depends on whether you need one to solve a current problem.
MP
64Impala
10-29-2004, 15:04
I just order one. Should have it next week, Maybe my truck will not stall after it goes on.
Desert 6.5
10-29-2004, 20:08
I have been running my Sol-D for about a month now. Seems to have more power overall. The best part is my stalling and no restart problems have gone away totally. I have not checked milage difference with it yet, but am very happy with the performance. Mine came with the connector shone in the write up. 10 minute install was very cool :cool: !! With the 5yr warranty I could not see going wrong, since my Sub is past 120,000 now.
ronniejoe
10-30-2004, 05:46
According to UPS tracking, it should arrive here on Tuesday, November 2. I'll keep an eye out for it.
I thought the fsd was pat. protected.!!
It reminds me of the old ford electronic ing. not worth a darn and expensive to replace.
Now you can buy them for $35 cheap.
The fsd should go down in price some time.
I know there was people workimg on it!!!
David ;)
I have a guy in Charleston who will be subjecting my sample to as much non intercooler heat as he can soon...
64Impala
11-02-2004, 07:56
Got mine today lets see how it does.
64Impala
11-02-2004, 08:03
Also had the connector no splicing.
Mine has been in a couple of weeks now and my vehicle has been running fine. The installation was
a little harder than I expected since the original
FSD cable had no excess slack and was stuck down in the hole behind the fuel pump.
ronniejoe
11-02-2004, 10:48
The SOL-D arrived today. I should get to the install by the weekend.
I received my SOL-D solenoid today. It took longer to get out the tools than it took to install. I was pleased with the rush shipment and the tech support was good. I asked a lot of questions before my purchase and always recevied prompt answers. I will let everyone know how it works out.
smile.gif
Frank
64Impala
11-09-2004, 17:14
SOL-D module from RemarQ (FSD)has been on 7 days and no stalls. Only now my CB radio has a lot of motor noise, could be something else, I'll work on this later. Just glad it went a week without stalling.
It will be interesting to see how the SOL-D hold up to the heat and if the company is around long enough to honor any replacement warranty they have? I notice Heath Diesel now has a 7 year Warranty on their Issolator product. I will be watching this with great interest since the Beta FSD cooler was toughted to "be the answer" when it first came out and included statements such as "we know of no failures with this product". Many of us have had failuresw with the BETA Cooler. Oh where oh where could Beta have gone?
I hope this new product works and is a much better product than the Stanadyne POS. I am a skeptic having watch a number of US paying to test these electronic products in the past. Good luck to all who are "testing" this new product!
ronniejoe
11-17-2004, 20:28
The SOL-D test unit failed after only 80 miles and less than one day of use. It has been express shipped back to RemarQ for evaluation. More information to come.
RJ
You have got to be kidding...
Give details. What symptoms? Same as FSD? Just stalled?
ronniejoe
11-18-2004, 12:09
From what I saw, there were two problems.
1) descending a grade on cruise with the TorqLoc engaged produced a surging or bucking that is not present with the Stanadyne FSD.
2) parked the truck for the night on Friday, November 12 after 80 miles of testing. Wouldn't start Saturday morning November 13. Unplugged the SOL-D and plugged in the Stanadyne FSD...fired right up. Tried again later with the SOL-D, but no joy.
RonnieJoe
That's a shame :( Order one myself,should be here monday. Got this code 35 that nothing I do will get keep it from coming back.
Did a search and seen where moondog had this going on yet all my work has failed :mad:
No lose of power,just the ses light going on and off. My pump is the new R&R with close to 100K.
I just don't see the pump being the problem.
So I order the SOL-D myself.
Once posted my code 35 problem but got no feed back. Thought I had it whiped after lot's of cleaning grounds and contacts. Came back 4 days later. :rolleyes: :( :mad: :confused: So I'm giving this a try. Dont like hearing your bad deal with this new an untried prodect and can only hope for the best that I have not just spent over $450 when my fsd & cooler has been very good to me.
How can my truck run so strong yet have a bad pump.
Last time pump was replaced @ 45k it was probley an fsd issue. Dealer tried 2 rebuilds before installing a new pump. truck has 136k now.
The one thing I have not done yet is pull the intake and dive into the pump. New driver should be here monday.
I can clear the code and won't see it for a couple of days :confused:
I've got mine heading back north also. Anxious to see what happened. Also working with Cristian on connectors and couplers so they can be a clean plug/play operation. THEN if the sample unit runs I'll order stock...
John are you saying you had one fail one you too?
Billman
John loan one for a test drive,run,pull test
64Impala
11-21-2004, 12:16
19 days and still going. Sorry to hear about about the problem some are having.
Mark Rinker
11-22-2004, 08:11
My FSD solution has been a simple (and inexpensive) one. Between parts yards and friends that work at dealerships, I have two or three used FSD's on hand. All were free. There are lots more out there as these trucks and engines are going out of service daily.
Why buy new?
Originally posted by Mark Rinker:
Why buy new? When playing Russian Roulette it's good to know how many bullets are in the gun?
More Power
11-22-2004, 13:43
As Ron mentioned, our test unit had developed a problem. In an email & phone call exchange with RemarQ, here's what they said. MP
-----------------------------------------
Hi Jim,
We got the defective module from Ron on Nov.17th. After a series of tests performed on the returned module we found that one of the power diodes is
defective!!! This was very surprising, as the specifications of this ultra-fast diode (200V/20A at a temperature range -65
Mark
(Wy Buy New)
In my constructon I don't have time to shop.
My wife does :D
To All
I have been dealing with A code 35.
SOL-D Install at 6 PM.
Two HR. of test drive. No Code's.
Here we have a country side road of 6+ deg grade of up and down. Long Hill up (1/8 mile x4) and down. Could not set code. Stop and let it heat soak. 15mim. No cover.
I have a front gril cover that I put on,same test.
Now I'm running 210* coolent.
IAT at 195*, Repeat heat soak. Did this 4x times.
Wow, I was having fun. No light.
I'll be one of the test dummy (yea right) This is an early stage. Only day one and two Hr's.
Though I did put this SOL-D through HE^L. :D
I run 180 stats.
And after running 210 for 30 min. then I pulled the cover off and let it cool, I could not get the code.
Now I have reinstalled the FSD/Cooler and tomarrow I'll drive it all day,towing a bobcat,we'll see if the code 35 comes back?
My work truck is heavy 8,200# Tool's and all.
I am a person that will go for What works.
FSD/Cooler was an Ideal.
We made it better my remote mount to a cooler area.
Would it be nice to have all them Pumps that are good.
Time will tell.
Jim I'll keep track of miles, MPG. I do the MPG at every fill up. Same pump,same spot.
I have dated on this truck sence day one when I was a member.
Moondog, I have done all that you have posted about the code 35. Did not work :( Worked for you though others also had no luck.
I've bean a member longer then post date.( Do Not Let Your Membership EX,PI,ER)
When you think you got it under control'YEY RIGHT :D
We'll see what the outcome is on the failure analysis of the failed unit that I sent back.
Mark Rinker
11-23-2004, 12:12
When playing Russian Roulette it's good to know how many bullets are in the gun?
Huh ?
Nothing 'russian-roulette' about it. They all have been tested and work fine.
Mark
(Wy Buy New)
In my constructon I don't have time to shop.
My wife does
Double Huh ???
I have a used spare FSD in each truck's glove box. No 'shopping' required, as my trucks work mostly at night in the winter.
If you waited for an FSD failure to purchase a new SOL-D and cooler for ~$400, then you are truly 'shopping', and likely lost a day or two in the process - right?
Also, I am not crazy about the requirement of splicing wires to use the SOL-D. More hassle and more points of corrosion and failure over time, IMHO. (Not to mention the dealership's reaction when you want help replacing that once- warrantied IP over 120K miles..."Who spliced all these wires under here???)
JK - what were the circumstances behind the SOL-D failure? How many hours did it last?
[ 11-23-2004, 11:27 AM: Message edited by: Mark Rinker ]
Reinstalled FSD & Cooler,Code 35 came back.
FSD went 37,600 miles.
Sol-D now installed, No codes.
Now us use'er will see.
Couple of the SOL-D has not passed the test.
It did, for now clear my code 35 issue.
As other's I'll keep you posted.
I'm waiting for another test unit so we can try it again. The unit went about 2 days. I'm hoping it's just dumb luck that both my and the DP's test units were bad.
[ 11-24-2004, 08:54 AM: Message edited by: kennedy ]
Is anyone reporting improved cold start after installing this SOL D product?
Thanks
Buzz
BUZZ
This I can't add. My FSD worked,cool or hot. Once Eng. is warm I do not wait till WTS light comes on. Jump in and fire. Works. I just had the code 35. As of today,150 mile stop and go, on and off.
SOL-D has worked,where as my old FSD would of set the code.
Time will tell.
Monday I'm doing the timing that was posted.
More timing and the guy that I printed out the post said, OH YEA, I see YA :D
Originally posted by Mark Rinker:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr /> When playing Russian Roulette it's good to know how many bullets are in the gun?
Huh ?
Nothing 'russian-roulette' about it. They all have been tested and work fine.
</font>[/QUOTE]The original quastion was "Why buy new?"
My response was that with a new one at least you can hope it's not on its last days of life yet. Whith a "tested used one" you can't say it has 100% of it's life ahead of it (whatever that is...) My most recent failed FSD would have tested good the day before it failed. And, all the ones I have laying around have already failed....
Mark Rinker
11-24-2004, 14:38
True. There is a risk that used will fail quickly.
I would prefer to buy new, but hate having $600 (2 trucks) money tied up in a ready spare for each glovebox.
For everyone's sake, I hope the SOL-D turns out to be a viable alternative to OEM units.
Mark
I hear what you are saying. True test is what I call, on the road. My truck is heavy. Not like the 1500 light weight.
As with any new item,there will issue to deal with. I think we are on to a problem that,could work. I am not going to give up on the 6.5.
Mark Rinker
11-25-2004, 11:03
Just yesterday I had #3 (6.0 gasser) in for a simple bit of warranty work at the dealership.
Wandered over to the bench where the diesel specialist guy works - sure enough there is an old DS4 pump with FSD attached, sitting on his bench.
"...what happens to these, I asked?" He proceeds to explain that all pumps replaced under GM warranty are SMASHED to bits with a hammer, to make sure they don't get back into circulation...no more rebuilds, only new units go in.
"Can I have the FSD before you smash it for a glovebox spare?" I asked. "Sure...he replies, removing it from the pump.
As I happily pocket the first one, he opens another drawer, revealing at least 3 more FSDs, as well as couple of DS4 pumps. Winking, he tosses me another FSD.
"Here, have two..." he says...
I agreea used one is good for a spare, but the "primary" was new when I put it on...
Since the FSD is what fails most frequently, it stands to reason most of the used ones you'll come across will be bad, unless you happen to know the failure mode of the pump at hand.
Mark
BTW the SOL-D just plugs in.
2oo mile,no code.
Starts great and runs good.
john8662
11-30-2004, 13:01
Originally posted by Mark Rinker:
"...what happens to these, I asked?" He proceeds to explain that all pumps replaced under GM warranty are SMASHED to bits with a hammer, to make sure they don't get back into circulation...no more rebuilds, only new units go in.WHOA! I can understand that, take a bad FSD install it on your pump, come in for warranty repair, pocket your good FSD you took off and replaced with the bad one ;)
Calvin 60
12-02-2004, 12:35
I would suggest that all taking part in the testing of the SOL-D and others that have made the change post a monthly accounting of their experience with the SOL-D to include any problems with it and the mileage logged.
I have been running the SOL-D for severl weeks. I have 2000 miles and no problems. I am getting 17.5 mpg on th road. Start up in cold weather has been good. My stalling problem is gone. I have had a hypertech chip for some time and the unit seems to have more power with the SOL-D.
Frank
ol9465er
12-05-2004, 11:37
I would like to share with TDP my experiences to date with Remarq and the SOL-D FSD.
My Chev 94 6.5TD, stock 3/4T 4x4 Ext Cab with 279,400 Km (174,625 Miles) started stalling last weeks of Oct 04. Found my my OPS and FTP were bad so changed but PMD was definitely bad also - getting code 35.
Purchased SOL-D FSD (with connector) and installation was simple. Truck started immediately with no issues and seemed more responsive. Truck ran great for 9 days and 440 Km (275 Miles).
However, parked truck Friday night before a planned 600 Km trip Saturday with no apparent problems. Next morning, started truck as usual, it fired and ran for 5 or so seconds then hunted and surged for a few seconds then quit - that was it! Could not get start it again. Plugged old PMD back in (not removed) and was able to start and get into my shop.
Contacted Remarq and they were very helpful and concerned about the failure. Returned bad unit and they returned a replacement which took 4 days. Am now running on replacement and have 600 Km (375 Miles) on it. So far so good... Will keep you advised.
My comments are:
1. The unit with connector is easy to install.
2. It seems to be more repsonsive but I will check my fuel mileage and advise.
3. Remarq has been responsive and very good to deal with in my case. The advise they are aware of only one other failed unit and will advise cause of my failure as they are concerned with any failure information.
4. My major complaint (other than the failure of course), my AM radio reception is now very poor comparable to the stock PMD, other than right in the city - engine noise very apparent on the radio on all stations and drowns out radio completely in suburbs.
5. The SOL-D just quit "dead" with no signs of failure. The stock PMD was/is failing slowly so I could keep going when PMD was cold.
This of course is winter and cooler temperatures here in Vancouver, B.C. Canada but I will keep up my report during my use of this product.
Cheers,
ol9465er
1994 Chev 6.5 TD Stock (except for SOL-D FSD)
New IP at 176000 KM (110,000 MIles) when bought
truck from dealer therefore 103,400 KM (64,625 Miles) on failing PMD.
I pull older 19ft trailer with cab-over boat and lots of gear during fishing season up and into the mountains, so it gets some hot/and heavy use, also skiing in winter. Truck is used for hobby farm and recreation.
I'm told it will be mid-late December before a replacement will be sent. :( While the test subject does have a Stanadyne unit to fall back on, the delay came as a disappointment to me.
I am most anxious to get this thing validated so I can begin to sell them, but until we see it run...
This 'Miracle Replacement FSD' is having a very high failure rate.
Since this thread started 2 months ago, 6 people have posted having them.
3 Failures.
One Word.....Dud.
On Edit:
Sorry. I have posted incorrect information.
This thread is only 6 weeks old.
8 units have been tested. 3 Failures.
Failure Rate 37.5%.
Same thoughts...
Mark Rinker
12-06-2004, 06:33
Lets hope they simply received a bad batch of transistors from the supplier and can change suppliers to solve the problem. It would appear that they are 'field testing' or would have discovered this problem easily on their own. How embarassing/dissapointing this must be.
The fact that they all failed so quickly is a both a concern, and lucky since we didn't all rush out and buy them, only to find shorter service lives than the OEM units...
I think that in time, they will prove to be an excellent product, but only time will tell. All products have succeses and failures on release. Personally, I'd have rather dealt with this prior to the release of the product to the general public.
64Impala
12-06-2004, 13:19
Mine has been on since 11/2 and still doing fine.
Mark Rinker
12-08-2004, 05:13
Joey - have you noticed an increase in power, as others have reported?
JK is it possible for an aftermarket FSD to 'instruct' the fuel solenoid to pump more fuel than the OEM unit?
64Impala
12-08-2004, 17:18
Originally posted by Mark Rinker:
Joey - have you noticed an increase in power, as others have reported?I have not noticed any.
I'd have to guess yes, the driver unit could be calibrated to deliver a longer pulse based on any given ECM input, but that would only be a guess. You probably could only go so far as the low end resolution would suffer. Just an edumacated guess anyhow...
Originally posted by kennedy:
...the driver unit could be calibrated to deliver a longer pulse based on any given ECM input...I think that would depend on who calculates closure time. If the driver does, then the PCM would be none the wiser. IF the driver only detects closure and the PCM calculates how long it took, then I don't think it would work.
Doesn't the SOL-D come with a built in calibration resistor? If it does, then those who had a low resistor to start could see a bump and those with a higher number wouldn't.
My un-edjumacated guess....
:mad:
Here's one for you. Sol-d driver installed at 135,600 miles. It took care of my code 35 yet at 136,115 miles after sitting in 40 degree weather and raining for 9 hours the truck tried to start and after repeated glow cycles engine would fire go to 3000 rpms, raced, then shut down and would not refire. Reinstalled the fsd beta cooler and the trucked started fine. This fsd cooler is the one that gives me the code 35. I contacted RemarQ and they are sending out a new driver.
:mad:
Point is did I make a bad investment? :confused:
Update...
Failure rate = 50%
For those who have had a failure of the SOL-D product, what has been the additude of RemarQ Technologies Inc.? Are they willing to offer refunds to those who have had a unit fail?
:confused:
Frank
Remarq was very decent about it, however the replacement (sample) has been delayed which I guess beggers can't be choosers anyhow. Problem is, we can't evaluate the thing if we don't have a working sample.
For what it's worth, the Stanadyne unit on my 96 was installed at around 98k on the clock. It now has 155k on it and resides in TX. Originally installed on the intake on an FSD cooler, and later relocated to the inner fender, it has performed flawlessly.
Key is, the truck is intercooled..
ronniejoe
12-13-2004, 13:16
A new test unit arrived from RemarQ moments ago...
RANCHMAN
12-13-2004, 17:14
I have a 1995 K-2500HD and I have 165K on it . I have replaced the FSD 5 times since it was new. I am currently using the remote mount from Heath Diesel and it only lasted one year and this is my 2nd one from Heath. The first one made it 6 months, I'm beginning to think that there is no anwser for the code 35 problem. I ordered the SOL-D and I guess time will tell
ranchman'I had the code35. RemarQ fixed the code.
fshope, yes willing to work with us. No refunds, they want to now how it fail,under what conditiones.
JK We have samples. As members,any new Item Working with RemarQ we could have a working driver.
Our FSD seem to work on and off.
Intake mounted or remote seem's to have same result.
More Power
12-14-2004, 15:48
I received a report from RemarQ about the failure with our test unit. The good news is that is was not due to a component failure or an electronics design issue. It was more an assembly/fit contact issue that caused a diode to short (didn't cause component failure). That has been taken care of, and I'll soon have more info to report here.
MP
bobbiemartin
12-14-2004, 18:39
Originally posted by RANCHMAN:
I'm beginning to think that there is no anwser for the code 35 problem. Oh yes there is an answer. Its a DB2. In my opinion, the single best modification you can make to a DS4 equipped 6.5.
tbogemirep
12-15-2004, 18:24
Originally posted by Bobbie Martin:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by RANCHMAN:
I'm beginning to think that there is no anwser for the code 35 problem. Oh yes there is an answer. Its a DB2. In my opinion, the single best modification you can make to a DS4 equipped 6.5. </font>[/QUOTE]Easier said than done on OBD II with theft deterrent
bobbiemartin
12-16-2004, 15:13
Well, what is? It might take a bit to figure it all out, but I see no reason why it wouldn't be possible. I would think it being a 4X4 would be a bigger hassle. However, I can tell you its well worth the trouble.
I have my new driver, yes it does remove the code 35.
More to come later ;)
Work's and is doing great even at -2 below.
Wow it's cold here in IN. ;)
ronniejoe
12-24-2004, 08:27
As I posted in the other thread, my test unit is working fine now. It has a surging issue associated with cruise control and has significant interference on the AM band. I will contact RemarQ and see if they will fix these issues. Yes, it is cold here...and snowy. About 15" fell here Wednesday night. :eek:
DeezlStinson
12-25-2004, 17:09
Howdy all,
Does anyone know where one could find the actual schematic diagram of a Stanadyne Fuel Solenoid Driver? I suppose I could break one apart.
Has someone already been there/done that?
Thanks,
Rick
Contributor
Member # 59
posted 11-01-2004 05:03 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I have a guy in Charleston who will be subjecting my sample to as much non intercooler heat as he can soon..."
Hey JK,
I'm in Charleston. Is the guy your mentioning the fella that does a little web site work? (GF) I'm shopping for FSD kit and cooler and am getting mixed info on "knock off" sellers, etc. Any help anyone?
Exhaust is next.
94blue
moondoggie
12-27-2004, 11:26
Good Day!
DeezlStinson: Massive amounts of FSD/PMD information was summarized in FSD, PMD, PMD, FSD -or- It's 10 pm - where is your FSD? (http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005199#000000) (Click on the colored text.) This topic was preceded directly by FSD\PMD - BFD (http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005013#000003) & two other long topics, which was preceded by years of trying to figure these things out.
Blessings!
Brian Johnson, #5044
DeezlStinson
12-27-2004, 11:32
I have a 1994 K2500 Suburban
It's beginning to appear that the DTC 35/36 is an actual SOLENOID problem and not a solid state solenoid driver problem.
According to the GM service manual, if the solenoid becomes "faulty" it will set a DTC-35/36 code.
The FUEL SOLENOID is not the same as the SHUT OFF SOLENOID, in that the shut off solenoid is easily replaceable. It doesn't appear that the fuel solenoid is as easily replaceable.
I actually got a DTC-13 and DTC-36 when mine started stalling.
Since the PMD is not related to the shut off solenoid other than BOTH getting power from the ignition switch, I don't suspect the PMD yet. (unless it's shorting to ground). I replaced my Injection pump at 60,000 with a rebuilt from DIS in TX back in 1999. This is the first problem with it since...I have 138,000 on it now.
The problems do not seem to be heat related since it doesn't happen during a hill climb for example, when under-hood and coolant temps are at their highest....Rather, it happens on the "flat" cruising down the freeway and it's appears random.
By the way my PMD(Stanadyne #34583) uses Motorola MJ15004 PNP power transistors. According to the Motorola DATA sheet, they're good for 250w total & ...I'll have to go back and review some of my EE stuff (haven't done this in 25 years!) to determine if an injection pump mount point at about 120 degrees C or so is too hot for them. I'm assuming that the Stanadyne boys have been down this road a few times though!
More to come...
[ 12-27-2004, 11:09 AM: Message edited by: DeezlStinson ]
Originally posted by 94blue:
Contributor
Member # 59
posted 11-01-2004 05:03 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I have a guy in Charleston who will be subjecting my sample to as much non intercooler heat as he can soon..."
Hey JK,
I'm in Charleston. Is the guy your mentioning the fella that does a little web site work? (GF) I'm shopping for FSD kit and cooler and am getting mixed info on "knock off" sellers, etc. Any help anyone?
Exhaust is next.
94blue That's the guy. Still waiting on the replacement unit here.
More Power
12-27-2004, 13:27
The BETA FSD Cooler (sold by DSG, BD, JK, and a host of other legitimate dealers) was the first commercially offered remote mounted FSD cooler offered to the 6.5 community. BETA has a patent.
All others that utilize an extruded aluminum heat sink are not the original.
A coupla guys in Canada even went so far as to plagiarize my original article written in 2000 to produce a brochure to promote their knock-off cooler - changing the name of the product and of course, the author. Another fella in CA simply copied BETA's design, but forgot the anodizing and forgot to machine a flat mounting area for the FSD. There are a couple more coolers floating around as well.
I like innovation and creativity, but..... I'll leave it there.....
MP
The Beta FSD cooler has done very well by me. Moving it off the engine altogether has been a great improvement in reliability with VERY few repeat failures. Some have felt a need to add a fan, and this also can help.
I have every intention of continuing to offer the Beta unit and my kits as you can get the Stanadyne driver units most anywhere in the US.
I'll also offer the Remarq unit once tested/proven reliable. It will be nice to have an alternative to the Stanadyne unit.
All others that utilize an extruded aluminum heat sink are not the original. I'm not trying to be rude here, but I hardly believe that putting a heat sink on something that generates heat is something unique. I'm sure the BETA FSD cooler wasn't the first heat sink ever to be strapped to an FSD nor will it be the last.
Most heat sinks are made out of aluminum and most heat sinks are machined from a single block of aluminum. Additionally, most aluminum that is coated is anodized instead of painted.
Anyone who forgets to machine a flat surface for mounting is certainly not out to make a quality product. Nor do they probably know a heat sink from their left buttock.
I agree with you that creativity is good - but competition and advancement is, too. Of course, one of the by-products of that can be cheap knockoffs. Buyer beware, I guess.
DeezlStinson
12-29-2004, 08:48
I must say I agree...
Heak sinks are not unique and heat sink design is not "Rocket Science".
All one has to do is go to a company like Wakefield, http://www.wakefield.com/ and peruse their catalog of products and select a design that will work well in this application. (It appears Wakefield sells mostly extruded by the way)
Also in this case....Size is important!... It's VERY important that the heatsink be sized so it will do the job with very little air flow unless it's installed with it's own fan. It also has to designed to work with the highest ambient air temp expected. (Maybe 120F in Arizona?)
Another important consideration is that the assembly be placed in an area that will get cool air. Placing it in the hot blast of the radiator fan might make it hotter than bolting the PMD on the injection pump especially when pulling that long hill!
If you really want perfect (not possible of course) heat transfer between the heat sink and the FSD, BOTH surfaces would need to be machined to ensure good contact...then use heat conductive grease to complete the connection. (The heat conductive "gasket" is probably used with the PMD because diesel fuel would dissolve and wash away the heat conductive grease)
Most extruded units would probably be flat enough to do the job though. They could be checked with a dial indicator or a "straight edge" (be sure to check the PMD too!.... I'll bet they are no flatter than most extruded heat sinks!) These heat sinks are also not very expensive. For example: I bought a surplus 6" x 12" by 2" heat sink for about $15 to install on a piece of electronic equipment. This size would have been perfect for a FSD application. Actually half that size would have been ok if outside airflow is provided.
Although I've been a Diesel Page member for a long time, I've not paid much attention to this forum and I'm sure someone else has been over this road many times....So I apologize for stating the obvious and repeating what others have said in earlier posts elsewhere.
Cheers,
Rick
Originally posted by Shuck:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr /> All others that utilize an extruded aluminum heat sink are not the original. I'm not trying to be rude here, but I hardly believe that putting a heat sink on something that generates heat is something unique. I'm sure the BETA FSD cooler wasn't the first heat sink ever to be strapped to an FSD nor will it be the last.
Most heat sinks are made out of aluminum and most heat sinks are machined from a single block of aluminum. Additionally, most aluminum that is coated is anodized instead of painted.
Anyone who forgets to machine a flat surface for mounting is certainly not out to make a quality product. Nor do they probably know a heat sink from their left buttock.
I agree with you that creativity is good - but competition and advancement is, too. Of course, one of the by-products of that can be cheap knockoffs. Buyer beware, I guess. </font>[/QUOTE]
My 2c
As date,the # 2 unit has been good.
Power is up and I no longer have any issue with the code 35. It's hard more me to keep up with all of the post.
Also I had no issue with a new replacement.
It was sent back at no cost to me.
Receved the new driver before the faild unit could have been received.
As of now I do belived in the product.
I won't konw how it will hold up to summer heat and heavy towing.
I was close to R&R an IP. Pump is working fine.
To the man at Ramarq, Thanks ;)
[ 12-30-2004, 08:44 AM: Message edited by: Bnave95 ]
JK, thats hard to beleve :confused:
Cristian tells me that the isolation washer issue was too difficult to test/trace so they are not shipping any of the current units, and are awaiting the next production batch in early/mid February. These will also have the new harness.
How in the h*ll do you even find the wires on the FSD? Looks like I will have to remove the Manifold just to find the connetion. Can someone tell me how to get to the connector.
They say it will take 6-8 weeks to ship me the new SOL-D which may be good it may take that long to get to the connection. In the mean time I walk.
Gary
My connector was almost impossible to get to with the intake manifold on. I had to reach down deep into the depths with a flashlight and could barely snag it with an unbent coathanger shaped into a hook.
It's easy to acess on the 94-5 models. A bit more difficult with the HO cooling. I use a long screwdriver to release it, and then you need to fish it out with a wire or hemostat. No need to pull intake.
ol9465er
01-18-2005, 18:27
Happy New Year...
Just a follow-up post to my Dec 05/04 post regarding the second SOL-D FSD applied to my truck (replacement for the first failed unit).
I now have 3000 KM's (1875 Miles) on the new unit and all is working fine with no concerns to report (other than the AM radio issue as previously mentioned). The one little quirk that I think is different from my original PMD (but I can't be sure) is when the fuel pedal is released and the engine returns to idle, it has a very slight burst of rpm before finally settling down - this has been no issue though.
I still have not checked my fuel mileage and compared it with my previous checks but will do and report my findings.
Just as a mention, I have been contacted a few times by RemarQ as they indicate they are concerned with any problems that arise and want to follow the progress. I have found their service professional.
Cheers...
ol9465er
1994 Chev 6.5 TD Stock (except for SOL-D FSD)
GMC Hauler
02-02-2005, 15:04
Just an idea....
Since the PMD's like to fail, and excessive heat can cause this, would it be possible and have any benefit to parallel 2 of them and let each take about half the load?
moondoggie
02-03-2005, 06:34
Good Day!
An FSD is a circuit, not just a transistor or such. You'd have to know quite a lot about the circuitry to determine if you could do this or not. I would be shocked if this were possible. :(
Even paralleling transistors requires significant design work.
Blessings!
Brian Johnson, # 5044
autocrosser
02-03-2005, 18:45
JK's method works fine for getting the connector off the FSD. I have use this method several times putting the connector on and off the pump FSD. I used a external mounted one to get to the dealer to get my pump & FSD replaced under warrenty. I put it back on it their parking lot and coasted up to the service writer.
tommac95
02-10-2005, 19:43
ol'9465er --
You might consider renewing the antenna wire to address the AM interference issue. I say this ONLY because i was advised to change out mine for a 'bad reception' problem...on my year the lead in wire is in two pieces, and a junction (behind the coolant reservoir) tends to get wet, corrode, and lose ground sheath connection.
GMC Hauler :
Like Brian says, the circuit timing would preclude the parallel operation. However, i will blithely note that the MOSFETS [new transistor design employed by Remarque in the SOL D] in addition to being vastly more efficient , feature the ability to be readily paralled, unlike the stodgy old bipolars [earlier transistor design] which cook the circuitry in the Stanadyne FSDs.
[ 03-01-2005, 05:26 PM: Message edited by: tom mac 95 ]
ol9465er
02-11-2005, 21:10
tom mac 95
Thanks for the post. I will check this out. However, the AM interference issue started the minute that I installed the SOL-D. I regularly listened to the same AM station in the morning on the way to work, but, it won't hurt to look - thanks again. I will advise what I find.
All... just as a first post re mileage using the SOL-D. I essentially have the same fuel mileage that I had previously (well a bit less but then I have not really checked it for quite a while.) It is about 17 mpg (cdn gallons) urban and suburban driving. Have not a highway trip yet.
ol9465er
94 Chev Stock except for SOL-D
285,000 Km (178 Miles)
LB 4x4 Ext Cab
My #2 driver has been working very good.
The power has really gone up. No codes with around 3K. Smokes alot less. And the unit does'nt even get hot :D Time will tell with the replacement though Racore says he will still sent out the newest model. He said he had to scrap many,many of the other units.
So is it safe to buy a Sol-D yet? I talked to Chris from Remarq Technologies and he said the isolator problem is solved, the AM radio noise has been suppressed (by 5 times), and a Kennedy harness has been added so the unit will now just plug in. Some of the units he said have been in service for 1 year under rigorous testing with no problems. However a new Stanadyne unit should also do a year or two when mounted on a cooler in a cool spot! He also said the only way to purchase one is through the internet.....why not distribute them to retail outlets so they can be bought locally? Some of the local shops have not heard of the product and I find it frustrating to have to explain the product to them when they are in the diesel business. If I knew this product would solve the FSD failure issue for good, it would be worth the extra money. So far, I guess time will tell. :rolleyes:
Robyn C52
03-10-2005, 19:16
I just got a new Sol D from Remarq and it came ready to go and I had it on and the rig running in 20 minutes including the time to take off the plastic engine bonnet and stuff it in the garbage can. The new units come with a complete harness and all you have to do is unplug your old unit on the pump, fish the harness up on top and plug in the Sol D and then close the hood. Boom plop done. I am very happy. My Sub runs sweet like it should and with a written 5 year warranty they have my business. All Gm and Stanadyne can say is AHHHHHHH we dont have a problem with PMD's you need to see your dealer, Ahhh have you checked your fuel filter??? Hmmmmmm I dont like being insulted by these morons. Sol D admits they had a problem with a bad batch and they made it good,that in and of itself says loads about their credibility. I have two 6.5's and will soon order a Sol D for the other one.
I am a happy camper. Too bad this fine product was not available back in 94 and 95.
ol9465er
03-11-2005, 22:20
Robyn C52
Can you tell me how your AM radio noise is. Do you have one of the newer RF suppressed Sol-D's. Mine is circa Nov 04 and I have terrible radio noise since installing.
ol9465er
94 Chev 3/4T 4X4 LWB 6.5TD
Stock except for Sol-D
285100 Km's
More Power
03-12-2005, 16:49
Talked to Remarq a few days ago. They're sending an updated model for Ron to test & compare the AM radio interference issue. We'll have pics soon. This new one is supposed to have better shielding. smile.gif
MP
4.3dieseljeep
03-18-2005, 14:41
Just installed one of their drivers on a 94. The thing would not start. So I double checked the connections and still no start. Engine cranks but no fuel out tail pipe. So I plugged the stock driver back in it and it fired right up. The voltage was a little low. Not real bad but engine cranking speed was down. After I had it running for a minute, I tried the sold driver again. This time it started but not during engine cranking. It would only start after the engine had cranked for a few seconds and I let go of the key. I tried plugging the stock driver back in it and it would start every time. I figured I had a bad SOLD driver so I called and they said they had never enocountered this problem. They gladdly shippped me out another driver. New driver and the same problem. I found out if I unplugged the glow plug circuit and cranked on the engine I would get fuel out of the tail pipe but with the glow plugs plugged in it would not start. I checked battery voltage and found it to be at 12.65V During engine cranking it would pull to 10.5V Not real good, but not real bad either. I put It on the charger and brought the batteries up. The truck started right up. I did talk quite a bit to the guys at Remark. They seemed to think there was no problem and it was simply bad batteries that were the cause of the no start situation. The only problem is their driver may work good when voltage is 100% but what happens if you end up leaving your headlights on for two hours? So your truck cranks over ok but now it wont start? Seems like they have a little bit more research/work to do. They seem to think they had no problem with their product and the customer should keep good batteries in their car at all times. Does this mean carry a spare? Just thought I would pass this info. on.
tommac95
03-21-2005, 19:56
4.3dieseljeep -
Thanks for posting your findings.
You probably know much more about the '94 than me!
Based on other '94 owner's comments, the low starting voltage may indicate a weak connection at the positive starter-motor (battery-cable) stud. I'd check that and grounds...the voltage to the electronics harness/driver module may dip lower than where you've measured when cranking.
[This does nothing to explain your observation that the Stanadyne worked when Remarque didn't.A close look at connector might be in order.]
I suspect this is a function of the electronics
( if in fact there is not some other Mistry involved) Transisters work through a wide voltage range, The newer " avalanche " devices need
a higher voltage differential to trigger the conduction of current. ( I'm sure there is someone with more expertise to correct or clarify , I have been away from the electronics stuff for over 10 years, retirement is great)
In the old days ( 6 volt ) use to have a motercycle battery power the coil ( isolated with a relay on start ). Coil had full 6 volts during start, made a BIG differance. especially on a VW in cold weather.
More Power
03-22-2005, 13:42
RemarQ sent this message to me recently, and OK'ed its posting in our BB forum. MP
------------------------------------------------
We want to thank you and to all members of theDieselPage.com for expressing their points of view (laudable or critical) regarding our product. It is our policy not to respond, nor interfere or argue with theDieselPage members and/or their topics on theDieselPage.com Forum. We are just glad to have the opportunity to hear (read) what our customers and potential customers have to say FREELY about our products. They are also encouraged to address us directly through our website. We use this information to ensure that our product is serving the market in the best possible way. We understand that this is not always technically or economically possible. We understand and accept, that despite our genuine efforts, we may not please some of the members and/or customers in their demands, and therefore we accept their right to critique our product within the limits of public decency.
We are paying members and advertisers of this web site and BB forum ONLY, because it seemed to us as being the most respectable forum on the internet, applicable to our GM 6.5L TD audience. We had a look around on what it is available on the internet in the GM 6.5L turbo diesel area and decided to stick with just this forum site. In the future, we may be advertising on other sites on the internet using theDieselPage.com as a benchmark.
We have a standard advertising agreement with theDieselPage.com, and the terms of this agreement are publicly posted on the Advertising area of theDieselPage.com. There are no special arrangements with theDieselPage.com or its owners, unless they are disclosed on a public area of this forum. Should RemarQ Technologies and theDieselPage.com decide to make any special agreement, that will be first for the benefit of the forum members and/or GM 6.5L TD owners.
IMPORTANT NOTE: This message is sent to Jim Bigley of theDieselPage.com, with the only intent to publicly re-state our business relationship. It is not intended to start any forum discussion, nor as a response to any forum topic. Our message is not solicited and may or may not be posted at the sole discretion of theDieselPage.com owners. We assume no responsibility for any interpretation of this letter (email). This message is not intended to solicit business or promote RemarQ Technologies and/or its products.
Thank you again for the fairness and professionalism of TheDieselPage.com services.
Chris
RemarQ Technologies Inc., Toronto, Canada
www.RemarQtech.com (http://www.RemarQtech.com)
Tel: 647 288-7288 or 416 756-4890
Email us: info@RemarQtech.com
ronniejoe
03-23-2005, 06:15
I'm starting to think that they may be on the verge of having a really good product. If they continue to listen and refine, based on feedback here and elsewhere, they will achieve their goal.
On the starting issue posted above: my view is that the SOL-D should be able to operate under any conditions that the Stanadyne unit does. As a customer, I would not accept the answer of "keep your batteries charged" if the Stanadyne unit will start and the RemarQ unit will not. Yes, good batteries are important, but the thought of being stranded because the batteries were a little low is troubling.
This also means that I think it should perform under all operating conditions that the Stanadyne unit does including with modifications to other components (chips, boost controllers and other electronic modifications).
In conclusion, the market for this product could be quite large. If RemarQ continues to accept feedback and refine the design of the SOL-D, they will have a winner on their hands. On the other hand, if they take Stanadyne's approach that there is nothing wrong with the product and problems are something else's fault...well, we've been there. So far, RemarQ seems to be committed to making this work and has been very receptive to feedback/criticism and seems to be willing to make improvements.
Forgive me for still taking a "wait and see" approach, but I (we) have been burned before.
moondoggie
03-23-2005, 08:59
Good Day!
4.3dieseljeep: If I was in your shoes, I'd ask SOL-D for EXACTLY what the lab conditions were when they tested their FSD for power supply acceptable range. This would have to include, at the very least, what supply voltage was present, where it was measured, & whether it was tested in a lab and/or vehicle(s). They had to have designed (& hopefully tested) for a certain window of power supply voltage. They may not wish to tell you this, especially if it was overlooked during development. I would hope that they designed AND tested for a supply voltage range at least as wide as Stanadyne does for their FSD (if that info is available), or can at least tell us within what circumstances they know their unit will work.
In fairness to SOL-D, keep in mind that our trucks are known for difficult-to-fix electrical/electronic problems. If we wish to be fair, we have to be careful in our troubleshooting. There's an extremely small chance that your Stanadyne FSD works outside the range of operating voltage specified by Stanadyne, making it look like the SOL-D FSD is inferior. I strongly doubt it, but in decades of fixing electronic stuff, I've run into much weirder situations than that :( ; I try to never say "never."
As ronniejoe says, I suspect they'll be forthcoming & continue honing what might become (or perhaps already is) a superior replacement for the Stanadyne FSD.
Blessings!
Brian Johnson, # 5044
More Power
03-23-2005, 12:16
I agree with Ron, moondoggie and just about everyone else here regarding the SOL-D.
RemarQ is the first company to bring an FSD alternative to production, and for that I commend them. I think in time this could be the ultimate solution to the untenable situation we have endured with the Stanadyne FSD module. We need to encourage RemarQ, and we need to keep this thread updated.....
MP
My sample unit is enroute to SC to begin it's life of abuse under the hood of a 6.5 known for abusing drivers...
4.3dieseljeep
03-24-2005, 06:50
The truck in question ended up having a bad alternator. It would only charge 13.5V. The second I replaced it the truck fired right up. I guess that the SOLD requires the alternator to start charging the second the engine cranks. If you unplug the alternator it will not start. Talk about strange.
Yes. Congrats to Remarq for being the only one to offer an alternative to the Stanadyne unit.
But with such a sensitive subject as the FSD, You would think they would have worked out ALL the bugs before releasing.
Yes. I understand this is not always possible. It just seems that they had a high failure rate as soon as it hit the market(according to this website).
I've been negative about this product, Yes. But if infact this does prove to be a superior product, I will purchase one.
That, and of course when my Pump-Mounted unit fails...
Kudos to RemarQ for their efforts to find an end to the annoying FSD failures. Let's hope they can get the "bugs" worked out soon. The no start situation with questionable voltage drop bothers me. It may only be as simple as lowering a resistor value in the ciruitry but what else. The isolation washer issue was just bad luck in my opinion. Many a good product have been disasters when they are rushed into the marketplace. I feel some homework needs to be done on the design. I needed an FSD, found a good deal on a new Stanadyne one so am going with it. At least I know I will get 2-3 years of good service from it, may be the life of the rest of the truck, (hope not!) ;) . No surprises. If the price of the Sol-D was comparable I may have taken a chance.....I think the profit margin is a little large for the price of a handfull of semiconductors and a heat-sink. However I wish them well with the product and anyone who has or is thinking of purchasing one. I will purchase one in the future if needed, once it is a little more "proven".
ronniejoe
03-24-2005, 19:26
As for cost...
Remember, RemarQ does not have the base volume that Stanadyne does. They also do not have a major OEM (General Motors) commiting to a set production schedule for several years running. Stanadyne's investment could be recovered over a very large projected sales volume because of this. RemarQ doesn't have this luxury. Plus, their volume doesn't even come close to Stanadyne's...
Their price will be higher.
Guys,
Where I am using my Suburban at this time of the year temperature averages 30deg C and I have using the SOL-D successfully for last 3 months now.
In summer temperature average will rise to 40 (in shade, peeked @46 last year) in few month. It looks like real solution for me so far.
Regards
Francois
6.5TD Suburban 1997 K2500 4WD full float 4L80E
+Toq lock+Exhaust brake+SOL-D+265/75R16 Michelin
moondoggie
03-25-2005, 09:38
Good Day!
[i]
Robyn C52
03-25-2005, 15:30
I replaced a bad PMD on my newly aquired 94 Suburban with 230K on it. The PMD went TU about two weeks after we got the rig home from California. I bought and installed the SOL D on the sub almost a month ago now and the rig runs fine, Took all of 15 minutes to install including puting the tools away and washing my hands. The truck runs great and I could not be happier. I will gladly pay Remarq for their product as it works and they are willing to give the customer a 5 year warranty. The Stanadyne unit costs a slight bit less depending on who you buy it from but it will fail, its not if its when.
The Sol D should have been around back in 94-95 when I bought my first 6.5. I fought two rigs and finally got rid of them because we had no recourse but to step up an bend over so MA GM could poke us again. I am so glad to see a company fix this problem finally.
Robyn Church
Alias Happy Camper
Robyn C52
03-25-2005, 15:38
4.3 Jeep
Check your battery cables on your rig. The ground cables really can caues problems where they bolt to the engine. If they have a lot of time on them toss them and replace with new ones. The grounds can look good but corode in the crimp at the eye where they bolt to the engine and the voltage drop will supprise you. My 94 becqame mine because nobody at the dealer that I bought it from had the sense to look at the cables. They had told the previous owner he needed an alternator and an instument cluster aqnd a starter and possibly an ECM too. I fixed all the problems with two $12 ground cables. Charges 14V now and starts promptly and all the instruments work and the rig is getting 15 1/2 MPG around town.
(94 2500 Sub 4X4)
Robyn C52
03-25-2005, 15:42
A friend of mine just had his PMD fail and he bought a new Stanadyne unit and mounted it on a heat sink with a computer fan on it under the dash. Took a bit of work and he bought the long wire kit from Kennedy diesel. He mad the heat sink and used a large CPU fan from a computer (ITS 12V) and this seems to be a sweet fix. That pmd even with the cooler gets warm as all get out.
4.3dieseljeep
03-26-2005, 11:19
Robyn
This is John from the diesel shop. The same afternoon you were in the shop one of my customers came in with a failed PMD. On your advice I figured what the hell. I was going to talk to you about it when you dropped stuff off for Pat, but got cought up on the phone.
I just had the same no start problem as 4.3 Diesel had only after the Yukon sat for 9 days while I was on vacation. It has the newest SOL-D on it. It did exactly the same thing his did but after I started it useing the old FSD I put the SOL-D back on and just like he said, it started after I let off the key. It has started fine sence then. About 10 starts so far. I have not checked the alternator or grounds or battery cables yet. I think it is weird that the FSD would start it though when the SOL-D would not.
4.3dieseljeep
03-29-2005, 05:46
Well, the truck is coming back in today. It sat for two days and would not start. He did get it going. The guy wants to put in a small lawn tractor battery in the truck with an isolator. The truck has had 6 PMD's and he does not want to go back to stanadyne. This should be interesting.
I feel good having time on my side on this one, I have a Heath issolator with 5 plus years of backing remaining at the rate I put miles on my truck that should give me about another 110,000 miles before I have to pay for a new FSD/PMD. I keep hoping the IP just keeps ticking away for few more seasons.
" 4.3dieseljeep" what was the result of the extra battery/????
tommac95
04-09-2005, 18:39
4.3 , & LTD :
How many years and miles have your ignition switches endured?
Welp, after I decided to go ahead and keep this truck and run it out the FSD/PMD monster raised it's head. At exactly 60k on a new pump with FSD courtsey GM it started all the clasic symptoms of a failing FSD. Right now , it's a roll of the dice to see if it will start or not and then run without dying. It's left me stranded twice refusing to start until it's had time to really cool down.
So now you guys are going to have another Sol-D to track. I decided to give this thing a whirl and I feel reasonably confident that it's a good solution.
I called Chris to check availability and found him to be good to deal with. He stated he would be watching for my order and try to get it headed my direction today if he could.
I proceeded with my order on their website and found it to be a easy and logical process.
I was also pleasantly surprised to find they are using Paypal for payment. I have credit with Paypal and was able to use that instead of burning up some plastic which will now be put to good use for some other mod's I've been planning. :D
:eek: I'M SHOCKED!!
As I'm sitting here typing this my cell rings and it's Chris letting me know he's got my order and it's going out TODAY and he thanked me for my business. He also made sure that I would stay in touch with him about his product and keep him informed about how I do with it.
I'm Impressed...
If their product is half as good as their service then we'll have a winner.
I'll post up when I get it installed and keep you guys informed on how I do.
ronniejoe
04-11-2005, 16:44
Customer service is a wonderful thing!
So far so good with our test unit. Looking to bring in some stock and open up for sale soon!
My #2 unit has been been doing very good also mounted on intake. Starts good also with out waiting for glow cycle. Have less smoke than the FSD.
I can not say enough about Chris and the work he puts into making the customer happy. Sol-D has lived up to its promise of taking care of issues that develop as they relate to their product.
THANKS CHRIS!!!!!
I've had my SOL-D installed for about 4 months now and it's been working great for me. It fixed problems I didn't even know were from the old FSD. It's yet to stall, the power's good and it almost stopped smoking all together, even when shifting.
ol9465er
05-16-2005, 19:25
Just a followup regarding my SOL-D FSD.
I now have 8000 Km (5000 Miles) and 6 months on my SOL-D with no problems, and it good starts for an old truck. So far, very satisfied (except for the radio noise, however hopefully that is the small trade-off for a dependable system) - time will tell.
Have to say though, very satisfied with Remarq.
They have been very informative, plus, Chris has called a couple of times just to see how things are going. Thanks Chris...
Cheers...
ol9465er
1994 Chev 6.5TD 4X4 LWB
Stock except for SOL-D
287400 Km's (179400 Miles)
tommac95
05-24-2005, 15:36
ol9465er --
Have you tried a new antenna wire?
I'd try:
1.) New antenna/lead, with attention to clean, snug mounting screws; possibly an extra ground wire (prefer braid, medium-large) from battery to fender and frame. Definitely a good braided ground from the hood to the firewall {and maybe firewall tied to this ground}. It might pay to put an additional (grounded) braid layer over the OEM antenna lead , or at least some barbeque-grade aluminum foil.
2.) New {remote} antenna mounting, and wire lead ; antenna now mounted to cabin roof (more windage, better reception).
Before much effort try a temporarily remoted mount (to see if works).
Good Luck , and thanks for your update.
surfbeetle
06-06-2005, 19:42
I have been following the progress of sol-D with great interest. Regarding the radio issues, has anyone tried a noise suppressor? I have to run them in my race engines in my aircooled VW's because of noise from the ignition system. Without them, you get a nice hum through the radio that corresponds with the rpm of the engine. Typically, the suppressor goes inline on all of the positive wires to the radio, both constant positive and switched positive. Radio Shack usually has them. Just a thought.
Craig
AM, only problem.
FM, works.
nvmtnlion
06-10-2005, 16:09
Has anyone tried the SOL-D with an Amateur radio in their truck? I realize that ham radio operators are a dying breed, but I am one and I LOVE how RF quiet the 6.5 is. Has anyone gotten around a SOL-D with a spectrum analyzer to see precisely what frequencies it does put out?
I am sure that a new PMD is in my future soon. Mine has been on the truck for 20K miles in Nevada and I want to be ready. I would really like to try a SOL-D but I am concerned that it will wipe out my ability to enjoy my hobby.
If you did'nt know what engine was under the hood, you would thing it was Ignition noise...
moondoggie
06-13-2005, 09:21
Good Day!
Ditto - sounds just like ignition noise. I notice it when going through a tunnel here in town while I'm listening to an AM radio station. (I have the Stanadyne/OEM FSD.) This makes sense, as it's probably the FSD firing the solenoid in the IP, which would obviously change pitch with engine RPM.
Blessings!
ol9465er
07-24-2005, 07:05
Hello all...
I have just gone back to an OEM PMD, not because my SOL-D FSD was bad, but because I changed my IP. My truck blew a headgasket so while I had it apart I changed my waterpump and IP also. I changed my IP because I was getting an SES light at running temp - the encoder/sensor was faulty, so I decided to bite the bullet and change it.
The AM radio noise is now gone and back to normal with no change to anything else.
I still have my SOL-D mounted on my truck.... just in case. (I will keep it there as the backup. Still have to say thanks Remarq for their helpfulness.)
So until I have to change back I will not be reporting on this...
ol9465er
1994 Chev 6.5 TD 4x4 LWB
291800 KM (182375 Miles)
tommac95
07-27-2005, 16:08
Cool, Ol65Lr. I do hope the electrical connector on the Sol-D is sealed VERY well!
ol9465er
08-05-2005, 05:54
tom mac 95
Yes, I have secured the connector. I am going to take it off and keep in a container behind the seat...
ol9465er
FYI
I purchased the Sol-d in late June for the 94 Blazer. If you read the topic
Went thorugh summer,all though this week it's back up into the mid 80's. Now have 9,500 miles. Code 35 showen once. Must of been a soft code.
One thing I remember about my truck, with the SOL-D I have not felt that miss that makes the truck jump, as been the case with the FSD.
One reason for trying the SOL-D was a code 35-36 issue. Thought pump. IP @ 100,400 mile. Runs as good when new. A good driver may have made the pump happy :D
The SOL-D is having a good track recored and I'll give the product a 5 star :D
10K plus miles since April, No problems in 100 + degree weather. and a very easy install,
Ditto on starting better, and smoother at low RPM.
The Intake mount does not seem to bother the Sol'D
( not so with OEM PMD ),
So Far, vrey good alternative to Standyne...
Anybody having problems with cold starts with the SOL-D?
ronniejoe
11-20-2005, 11:07
Three mornings last week, we had 12 - 15 F here in the morning. My 18:1 engine started right up with no glow modification. I am using the SOL-D.
Plugged in? Left mine about 36 hours without plugging in at -2c to +3c and just cranked. Had to plug in for about 5 hours then started.
jspringator
11-21-2005, 12:28
I assumed he meant not plugged in. Wouldn't be worth mentioning if plugged in. This could be the clincher for a lot of people who want 18 to one, but don't want the hard starting thet can go along with it.
So why will the truck just crank? When I installed my SOL-d unit I replaced my batteries. I've not touched or changed anything before or after the SOL-D install. Before using the stock fsd I could go at least a day or two at +5c to -5c and it would start. I won't dare try that now.
Could it be my starter is drawing to many amps on a cold start condtion? To intertupt the supply of the min of 9v for the SOL-D to operate?
I would question the glow plus.
As with RJ,I'm up north in indiana with no trouble. Glow light stays on much longer and starts right up with lots of loud rattle :D
Hi TTM,
Check out my thread titled "No Start, Cold weather only".
I have been having "No Start" problems when the temperatures drop below freezing point.
I would suggest checking each battery voltage with them disconnected from each other. I just disconnect the Pos terminal on the drivers side battery.
Then check each battery while reconnected, there should be very little difference in the two readings.
If there is then you may have problems with bad connections or a fault with the cables under the insulation.
Connect a multimeter to the drivers side battery and observe the voltage through each stage of start up from switching on the ignition, glow plug cycle and especially when the engine is turning over.
I would recommend that a spare Stanadyne FSD be carried just in case the Sol-D can't handle the drop in battery voltage which can happen to good batteries in cold weather especially when standing for several days.
Best wishes and good luck
Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland
4.5 k more miles on SOL'd no problems except:
I Let the battery's go down one night in maine.
On purpose: Did it to test low voltage starting.
I have one new battery and one old battery,
Truck was cranking slow , but only fired
a few times, It may have started with the Stanadyne pmd , but I did not try .
Cranking was still slower than normal when both batteries charged ,as I do need the second battery replaced .
I got very quick starts at all times when batteries were normally charged, even with the slower cranking speed . Coldest start was at 4 degrees F, Engine started quickly and a had good solid idle.
I think the SOL'd is a PLUS for cold weather except in case of low batteries, ( which in my opinion is is not good for starter and engine life anyway )
ronniejoe
11-26-2005, 20:33
I posted this in Twaddle's other thread:
Originally posted by ronniejoe:
I had two "no-starts" with the SOL-D over the weekend. First was Thursday morning in Whitewater, WI (about 12F outside). Kids had left the inverter on all night and batteries were down some. No fire at all. Unplugged the SOL-D and plugged in my Stanadyne FSD on the Beta cooler and fired right up, still cranking slowly. Ran for a while then I shut it down and reconnected the SOL-D. Started fine.
Sat overnight, and Friday morning no start. Around 22F. Unplugged SOL-D, plugged in Stanadyne FSD...fired right up. Drove home today on the Stanadyne FSD. Will try the SOL-D again, now that I'm home, but didn't feel comfortable with it on the road. The SOL-D has a low voltage starting problem and cannot perform under the same conditions as the Stanadyne FSD. Had I not had a back-up, I would have been stranded until I could charge the batteries...
Robyn C52
12-20-2005, 20:59
Seems we had an equipment failure that wiped out some late posts.
I have been fighting a no start Cold on a 94 Sub with a Sol D unit Temp mid 20's F.
Heat up the Sol D in the house and boom it starts fine.
Remarq says its a wiring problem with the rig resulting in low voltage. The Sol D needs voltage above 9 to work. The wiring on these trucks places the PMD at the end of a circuit that feeds other things including the fuel shutoff solenoid. We cant be rewiring all these trucks as there are just too many of them having this problem to be "bad" wiring or connections.
GM designed the thing to work with a box that was far more forgiving of voltage drop.
here is a clean quick fix.
Trace the wiring in the PMD harness and find the pink and Black wire in the trucks harness at the PMD plug, trace it through to the Sol D harness and be sure you have the wire that is hot with the key on or in start mode. Cut this wire in the Sold harness so you can work with it. You need to use the end coming from the truck side to power a small relay and then feed full power from the battery to the Sol D through the other part of the wire you cut. I used a accessory relay from freightliner designed to handle 75 amps. A bit of overkill but is neat and clean and you can get it from NAPA stores too.
Run your power supply side of the relay to the Alt + terminal and be sure you put a 10 amp fuse in the line too. Use number 12 wire for the feed from the Alt terminal to the relay as well as to the Sol D. You will wire the line coming from the pmd harness that you cut to power the relay and ground the other terminal on the relay.
The relay I used is a constant duty unit with two spade terminals for operating the relay and two screw terminals to handle the power.
This will give you full battery power through heavy wire to the Sol D and should stop this Cold start issue. The power loss through the trucks harness to the PMD is fairly great due in part to the way it is run and the size of the wire used. The starter hogs a bunch at cold start and the rest of the electrical system suffers during the start cycle. To add insult you have just hit the batteries hard with the glow cycle. The PMD is at the end of the line that also feeds the fuel shut off solenoid too, HMMMMMM poor design in the electrical circuit me thinks.
Give the relay a try and it should solve this issue.
For you folks that live where it gets way Cold
Like -10 -20 -30 ect a small garden tractor battery mounted with a Charge guard unit will help you. Wire the supply side of the relay to the small battery instead of the Alt. The Sol D really solves the heat related failure of the PMD but this Cold issue is just going to have to be dealt with. Remarq has told me that they may redesign the unit with a power booster on the 12V feed circuit but its not going to happen tomorrow. If we just work through this we can get good reliability.
*** Note*** I have two new Gel cell 1000 cold crank amp batteries in this beast and it was still doing the no start thing.
If the starter is tired it wont help as a tired starter really hogs power.
Robyn C
Too bad we lost those old posts, but suffice to say, if this product had truly been tested in the Great White North (or anywhere for that matter) this would have been found. This is one reason why I have not gotten behind and endorsed the product. Enough people with new batteries and good cables have encountered this so the blame cannot be shrugged off as a vehicle deficiency as has been the party line.
I've even heard of 38
I do NOT know what's going on.
I live north Indiana.
I have yet to have this problem.
My truck is garaged,though it sets in the cold when at work. We had a very cold spell and I wounder if my truck would start. Guess truck is not getting cold enough? Who knows? Yes I also carry a spare. So I thought, let truck set over night @ 5deg. Cranked slow,started,rattled like a diesel. Put back in garage,opened tool box and dried out tools. Sorry guys I don't get it. :rolleyes:
Just to add. Worked in Va. Truck always out in the outdoors ,at this time we had temps down to 30* may be not cold enough? What if,? I don't know, that I have mantane my truck to the best that one good. From all that I have done from this page. Seem's my truck is different :confused:
[ 12-25-2005, 02:20 AM: Message edited by: Bnave95 ]
ronniejoe
12-25-2005, 06:22
Mine started fine in cold weather until something was left on and drained the batteries down.
Robyn C52
12-26-2005, 18:44
Well the weather has warmed up into the 50's again and the Sub is starting fine. I have decided after doing some jury rigging to test the relay idea that its does work ok but I am going to toss the Sol D and go to a stanadyne unit on a long cable extender and remote mount the box out of the engine bay where it is cool,
My other 94 with stock stuff always starts fine in the cold other than it needs 3 new glow plugs and a set of nozzles too. It coughs up enough smoke on start up to kill all the mosquitoes for 10 miles around but clears out fast and runs great after that. Gets 18MPG Hwy and 16 City so I am not in a big hurry to spend $$$ on it. I bought it off a gippo car lot for 5K and it really was sick. The ground cables were bad and it would hardly start. The alt was toast and the turbo waste gate solenoid was bad as well as the vacuum hose to the waste gate was not even there.
Took about an hour under the hood and a few bucks and poof it runs great.
I am really sorry the Sol D is not a perfect fix but they still have some squaring and jigging to do to get it right and I have better things to do than screw around reengineering someone else's electronic beast.
Best thing would be to drop in a DB2 pump and to H!@# with the DS4 POS,
The more they overthink the plumbing the easier it becomes to plug up the drain!!!!!!!!!
Later troops
I was reading the thread and had to share my fix:
I took one of my old driver modules and chipped the tops off of the transistor cans. Removed the transistor cases leaving the pins attached to the module. I then soldered wires on to the pins which I ran to two sockets on a remote heat sink. I can now change the transistors for about $1.50 each. So far it's been a year and I am still running on the original set.
To gain access for the wires, I drilled holes in my original FSD cooler and ran the leads through the holes. The new heat sink is mounted on the fire wall. The location is probably still too hot, but the transistors are cheap and easy to change, so who cares!
Mike Lang
94 K2500 129K miles, completely stock with the exception of the custom FSD modification.
GMC Hauler
12-28-2005, 17:27
We'll, at that price, you could make a quick disconnect plug, have several extra sets made up, and still come out far ahead of the competition. Want to share what transistor you used and place of purchase?
I don't have one in front of me, but as I remember they are Motorola parts. The part number is printed right on top of the transistor.
I ordered my replacements from www.digi-key.com (http://www.digi-key.com)
I will take a look tomorrow and post the part number.
Mike
Just a update, over the holiday and had only one no start with the SOL-D, didn't have the truck plugged in for about 10 hours and temps of -5 to -1C, what I did was got my heat gun placed on the manifold pointed it to the unit and on low let it warm up the SOl-D up for 10min or so. Started with some hesitation. Remember at those temps don't know about colder. What I've have found (for my truck) after shut down you can only leave it unplugged for about 3-4 hours then you have to have it plugged in. I just plug in overnight all the time.
So I've had the SOL-D for 2 months now and other than cold starts no problems. But any no start is a problem. I think like what has been mentioned before that the Sol-d is so senstive to that 9 volts it requires to operate that in a cold start condtion any other draw( wiring, batteries, starter draw) it won't work. Re-thinking the Kennedy Unit...just becaues of the Standayne FSD only requires 4 volts to operate.
Why would warming the unit help the no start?
Interesting. Now it seems there are 2 issues. One is the actual temperature of the unit and the other is the system voltage while starting.
I had a caller tell me that he found that by removing his unit and warming it up inside the house he could get it to start with no other changes/charging etc.
On this topic a cold weather mid throttle stumble, stall, like in Gas Turbines, started to occur. I suspected all the usual gremlins, LP, air, bad fuel, filter, grounds connections etc.
This is like easing on the pedal on a flooded gasser that doesn't clear up unless you unless you floor it then runs like a bandit. Starts okay, idles fine, it is a light throttle issue 1500 to 2000, cold weather. The colder it is the worse.
So I have 3 FSDs on the ride. 2 stanadynes on a FSD cooler and a Sol-D. All three are in the grill area.
I have the reported no cold start issue with the Sol-D and have used the stanadyne to light off then shut down and re-light using Sol-D.
Well as cold weather set in I developed this stumble, stall, dead spot at light throttle only. You can get past it and go fine.
Tonight for the heck of it I lit off using the stanadye and went for a drive. No stumble no stall nothing ran great, well except for the 35 that is always there with this particular fsd. So, I pulled over and plugged in the Sol-d, stall stumble was back in fine fashion.
Drove a few more miles and truck was then up to temp still stumbling along. For the heck of it I pulled over and swapped to stanadyne FSD# 2, the no hot start culprit. Started up and runs fine, no sweat.
So with all this I have a Sol-D that when running does not like cold climate.
Now I guess it is time to install a meter to check voltage to the Sol-D when running to see if I can spot any supply voltage issues.
Thought I would share.
Trouble shooting keeps the mind sharp
Buzz
Buzz, while you are checking the voltage at the Sol-D also check it at thebatteries.
If your voltage checks out OK remember and contact Chris at Remaq/Sol-D
Sol_D are always claiming that any problems are caused by voltage drop caused by our "old Trucks" wiring and connector issues.
On my Suburban I found a voltage drop of 0.14 V which I don't think will be enough of a drop to cause a problem.
Any way that you can heat/warm up the Sol-D unit to see if this makes any difference to the stalling, others have been finding that if they heat up the unit their trucks are firing up ok.
Good luck
Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland
Robyn C52
01-06-2006, 17:02
Well now
I just had the oportunity to check out my Sol D on a 99 Sub with only 40,000 miles on it. This rig is just as close to new condition as you are going to get. I plugged in the Sol D and the problem is the same as on my 94 with 258K on it.
I do believe the troops over at Remarq are stroking us. That 99 sub sure as heck does not have any wiring troubles as it looks like new and is a second car and garaged when not in use.
Lets see how much trash we can call on these folks at Remarq and maybe they will fix the issue.
Robyn
Buzz, for low to mid throttle problems, a possible fix is to pull the plug off the throttle pedal ,clean and lube with dielectric,reinstall.
worth a try Don
I think this portion of the discussion based upon the use of a Relay actually has a lot of merit. Even Kennedy's headlight harness makes use of one to ensure appropriate current is made available by using the stock wiring as merely the signal feed.
Why couldn't Remarq do the same? Utilize the feed as merely the signal? What would the tooling costs be? $15 for a relay and another $5 for additional length/splitting of the harness? Except for those of you in the Great White North & the extreme northern states, unless you have an extremely weak battery, this voltage bug could be snuffed quite easily.
BBCB
The problem is the starter dragging the voltage down.
The OEM FSD will fire at voltages where the engine
won't crank fast enough to start, IE operates fuel solenoid in IP with low voltage.
The remarq has a threshold voltage where the
electronic device will not ' fire' IE
the electronic 'driver' device will 'turn on' or 'not turn on 'based on voltage availale while engine is cranking.
Approx 9V
There is only one way to work around this problem
(that I know of) as the design now exists.
That is providing a voltage source that is not
drawn down by the starter, IE, extra battery
isolated from starting batteries when cranking.
This can be down with a small battery isolated by a diode or relay which will provide the
Voltage for the SOL'D,.
This was a common North country 'fix' back in the 6 volt days ,
A Large capacitor would also probably work, but may cause other unknown problems....
Lastly: MHO, The Standyne FSD was strictly
a quality issue..... GM should have been
class action sued, I am VERY surprised that
there has not been accidents attributed to the
stalling issue.
I for one, has had this occur , down hill
on a mountainous switch back in Tenn.
Try and steer,brake and restart in this situation.
If my wife was driving, it would have been over..
kaylabryn
02-08-2006, 15:04
I am not to up to speed on this but why not put a small regulated power source in the PMD that will keep a constant 14.4v with an input of say 8-15v. How much current does the PMD need can't be that much? This would cure most problems with power, and the power would be cleaned up quite a bit at the same time.
ronniejoe
02-18-2006, 10:44
The Suburban with 18:1 engine and my glow mod has been starting great, better than it ever has in the past...until this morning.
The overnight low was about 8F and the temp at time of attempted start was about 16F. Did my 10 s pre-glow then used the key-on automatic glow cycle. Engine cranked, speed was a little slow but it is cold and I didn't have the block heater on. NO FIRE! Unplugged the SOL-D and connected the Stanadyne FSD. Repeat the above glow procedure and the engine fired right up.
This is not acceptable performance from the SOL-D. I have a brand new starter and the electrical system is in good shape.
Ron,
can I suggest that you try warming the Sol-D unit, Don't do anything else to try and get it started just to see if the warming of the Sol-D is a cure with no other possibilities.
I recently had a Sol-D "no start". Retried using a stanadyne unit and it fired up. Retried the Sol-D unit, No start.
Tried another Sol-D unit that was in the house and the engine fired up.
Removed the "No start" Sol-D and sat it at the stove till it was warmed up, reconnected and the engine fired up very quickly.
I have spoken to Chris at Remarq and he can't understand it as the tests were carried out at minus 50.
Unfortunately we haven't been getting more than the odd couple of days with frost so I can't retry this "warm up" quick fix again.
I suggested to Chris that he contacted DieselPage member TTM in Prince George, BC Canada as TTM has been having no start problems since getting the Sol-D recently.
Can I also suggest that the battery voltage be checked from turning the Ign switch on, to glow cycle then while turning the engine over.
I also checked the voltage drop at the FSD wiring compared to the batteries and found that I had a drop of 0.14volts which is not enough to cause any problems. Also I have very recently installed new batteries and a glow plug relay to rule these out.
Is this what they research and development in the field (with customer participation)? :confused:
Regards
Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland
ronniejoe
02-18-2006, 12:19
I checked voltage back in December, but the thread was lost in the server melt down. I've since replaced the starter that was dragging.
Removing and pre-heating the unit is not in the game plan for me. I don't care right now why it doesn't work, RemarQ needs to figure that out and should have run across this before release...if they did all the testing they claim. Blaming the "older" trucks, as they have done, is also not a winner in my book. Most of the market for this device is "older" trucks so that should have been accomodated in the design.
TTegtmeier
02-18-2006, 13:35
I installed the Sol-D on my 94 K2500 GMC back in November.
The engine has run without so much as a stumble since.
There were, however 2 no-start incidents when the temps dropped to the single digits F.
After reading the posts about voltage drop, I checked the voltage at the 'hot pink' wire going to the Sol-D.
Battery voltage with the key in the run position (after the glow plug cycle) was at 12.8V - at the Sol-D it was 11V. I wasn't able to get enough 'hands' to check the voltage while cranking, but it seemed that since there wasn't even so much as a sputter while cranking that the voltage to the Sol-D was below 9V.
Using information from other posts, I installed a 3rd battery (small garden tractor size) and a Relay to provide the Sol-D full battery voltage during starting - engine started on a 5 degree F morning without the aid of the block heater.
The weather here then took a rather warm turn - with nights getting down into the 20's and days sometimes as high as 40.
I removed the 3rd battery, leaving the relay connected to the Driver's side battery - giving the Sol-D a 'direct' connection to the battery via the Relay.
There have been NO cold start problems since.
This past week, the weather returned to 'normal' with some -20F nights and a 0 degree days.
Started on a -5F morning with no block heater.
Started on a -20F morning with the block heater running all night.
I've gone nearly 6000 miles since installing the Sol-D and the $5 I had to spend on getting it to 'work' has been worth it to me - as I've said - the engine has never run smoother, and started quicker since the 'upgrade'
Tim
Just A update from my end. I've had that Sol-D since Oct 05 and experienced a few no starts as posted...but I have not done any mods to the wiring but I just replaced my alternator and have not had a cold start problem since. We just got a blast of winter down to -20C at night and no start problems. I've kept it plugged in all night from 6-8 hours every night. I let it sit two days (plugged in) and it was as longer that normal crank but it did start. Could the old failing alternator been the cause of cold no start before????? Mabey.
Ron,
I agree that something is amiss with this "cold start" problem showing itself and for what is an expensive part (Sol-D) this should not happen and the paying customer shouldn't need to help develop the product or have to install extra batteries and relays.
However if everyone was to "warm up" the Sol-D as soon as the problem occurs and try to start the engine before trying any other fixes, to my mind this would prove that there is a problem with the Sol-D unit.
I also agree totally with you that Remaq/Sol-D were aware that their market was going to be "Older trucks" and the excuse of "Your older trucks wiring is to blame" is way out of line. I have let Remarq know my feelings on this one too.
TTM,
If you can risk leaving the block heater off when you expect minus night temp's then you will find out if the engine "No start" has been cured.
With the block heater on all night the temperatures will be pretty cosy under the hood compared to the ambiant temperature so the starter will turn easier and the warmer batteries will also have held their voltage compared to being left at ambiant temperatures.
It would help to try and see if the engine won't start,if warming up the Sol-D allows the engine to fire up.
I know this is hassle but it may help to establish if there is a problem with the Sol-D in low temperature situations.
Chris at Sol-D has told me that he would like to get to root of this problem, I would willingly try some more tests to try and establish if the fault is definately with Sol-D.
I am a little disgruntled at this situation though as I paid full price for two units last year plus shipping to Scotland and import duties and taxes, so these have been pretty expensive experiments.
The second unit was for a friends truck, however due to a possible low voltage fault none of the Sol-D units would allow the engine to start (no freezing temp's either). I installed a second hand stanadyne/GM unit and the engine hasn't missed a beat for almost a year now.
Regards
Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland
ronniejoe
02-19-2006, 05:00
To me, regardless of whether warming the unit helps, there is no doubt that the problem is with the SOL-D. When the no-starts occur, all I do is pop the hood, disconnect the SOL-D and connect the remote mounted Stanadyne FSD with KD harness and try again. The truck starts immediately. The Stanadyne unit will start the truck under conditions that the SOL-D will not.
This coupled with the driveability complaints that I have (surging under grade descent with cruise on and TorqLoc engaged) leaves a very bad taste. I cannot recommend this unit with these problems. Also, the radio interference is still a significant problem.
Edited to change my statement on the radio interference problem.
[ 02-20-2006, 01:41 PM: Message edited by: ronniejoe ]
Ron,
I agree with you that there is a problem with the Sol-D unit but would be grateful if you could try warming the Sol-D just the once to see if you find what myself and a few others have found?
I have told Remarq that this problem NEEDS to addressed, I feel it is not just a nuisance but it is a major safety issue that could leave a family with young kids (for instance) stranded if a stanadyne unit is not available as back up.
If The weather conditions were more severe here in central Scotland I would be able to get more conclusive evidence quicker to back up the argument with remarq.
You(Ron) of all people are aware that you don't make a claim about someone or something without loading up the bullets (hard evidence) before making a statement, especially if like me you like to win the argument. :D
I'd be grateful if anyone else having similer "No start" problems could try warming up the Sol-D, don't try anything else so that the engine firing up is due the Sol-D being warmer and nothing else.
The thing is we only have weeks before the temperatures start to rise again and when that happens it will be next winter begfore this problem recurrs.
TTM, Did Chris at Remarq contact you a couple of weeks ago to discuss the cold weather no start problems you were having?
I had suggested to him that he contacted you as you were both having a cold weather starting fault and in an area where regular cold temperatures were encountered.
Regards
Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland
twaddle, no Chris has not contacted me regarding the no start issue....I will leave the truck unplugged tonight temps are to get to -13C tonight. I will have to get up early in the morning for if I doesn't start I will have to warm Sol-D with the heat gun and go from there. I really don't think it will start. I have a poor working standyne fsd form the dealer that I use as back up...
No go, left it not unplugged for about 12-14 hours at temps from -5c during the day to -10c at night. I cycled the glow plug twice and no go. Just cranked. I got out my heat gun and heated the SOL-D up just so it was warm and it fired.
I can say that my electrcal system is in good woring order.
Why does it help to start if the unit is warm.
Sorry (I left it unplugged)
moondoggie
02-20-2006, 13:11
Good Day!
We don't need to win any arguements. ;) Sol-D needs prospective customers to be comfortable that what they're selling will work, 1st time, every time. Based on what I've read here, I wouldn't buy a Sol-D. This device should be able to work down to 5V & -50F, & tested everywhere between, to the degree possible. One winter of beta testing with folks in places like where I live (there's lots of DP members in MN, MT, etc where it gets cold in the winter), with the beta testers simply recording accurate date, time, & temp data at the time of starting their truck, would easily provide large amounts of data between 70F & -50F. The voltage at the Sol-D input during cranking could even be logged automatically with commercially-available data loggers; heck, the time & temp could be logged by the same device. There is, however, no reason for this device to not function properly down to 5V (or so) supplied.
They should CERTAINLY look into Twaddle's concern.
This is very frustrating. I desperately wanted this to be the killer fix for this riduculous situation, where the IP OEM can't supply a reliable electronic driver for their pump. But I can't buy something that simply won't work, at least where I live. :(
Blessings!
TTM,
Thanks for going to the trouble of trying the "warm up" experiment. I'm not really surprised that the engine fired up. However -5C should not cause a "no start" situation, this is around the temperatures that I have been having the same problems.
Have you let Remarq know about this fault when it first happened and if so what did they say?
If you didn't tell them, I think they need to know. Oh I forgot they already know, I suggested they call you several weeks ago, oops silly me.
This is a major failing of this "Answer to our problems", mother of all FSD's???
In answer to your question, Low ambiant temperatures can and does cause increased resistance to electrical circuits and components which is what seems to be happening to the Sol-D.
NOT A GOOD SITUATION SOL-D, is it? How about some solutions to this FAILING????
Jim Twaddle (hoping for some more frosty mornings so I can do some more research and development tests)
Biggar, Scotland
ronniejoe
02-20-2006, 14:46
Note: I edited my 2/19/2006 8:00 am post.
I have driven since yesterday on the Stanadyne unit. I had become accustomed to the crappy reception on AM with the SOL-D and forgot what I should be getting. While the annoying popping at engine speed is largely gone now, there is a high frequency interference that can completely drown out at weak AM signal. I was amazed at how much better my AM reception was today with the Stanadyne FSD functional instead of the SOL-D.
twaddle
I will try to get ahold of Chris from Remar-Q. To see if he can provide some update or information. It would be be nice if he would post so everybody can comment.
Originally posted by twaddle:
...Low ambiant temperatures can and does cause increased resistance to electrical circuits and components which is what seems to be happening to the Sol-D... Hmm, that seems to throw a monkey wrench in the whole super conductor theory... ;)
Hi John C,
I did some research, oops I got it the wrong way round. DAH.
"* Temperature Variation of Resistance
o conductor
+ resistance increases with temperature
+ increasing amplitude of vibration - more difficult for charges to get through
+ change in size can be neglected
o Semiconductor
+ effective resistance decreases with temp
# increased # of charge carriers"
Thanks John ;)
Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland
I e-mailed Remar-Q today regarding the cold no start issue, so I hope to hear from Chris soon. I don't know if he access to the DP but in my e-mail I indicated that there has been a post devoted to the Sol-D unit.
any idea whether RemarQ will be including an actual connector in future production models, or will the install always require a splice job?
It has been this way for the las two years
It has been this way for the las two years
Crap,get home and every thing changed. Now I got to figure what I'm doing?
Did not even know there was a newer SOL-D.
So will Chris replace my unit with the newer one?
TTM,
Did you get a reply from Chris at Sol-D/Remarq, they're usually pretty good at getting back in contact?
Regards
Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland
Hi Jim, no Chris at Remar-Q has not got back to me yet.
GMCfourX4
03-18-2006, 16:16
I must say that I'm disappointed. I have been following this thread since the beginning (on and off) and the last time I checked up on it, the only problems reported were AM interference (I almost never listen to AM) and a problem starting with low voltage (I try to keep my truck well-maintained, so swapping in a styadene unit if I accidentally drained the batteries wouldn't bother me too much). I had my FSD die on me today (thanks to CharlieP for lending me a spare, I was back on the road in an hour). I was all set to spend the $$$ on the SOL-D, until I read about the cold temp starting problems. I generally don't plug my truck in, and I have, on numerous occaisions, started my truck in very cold temps (for Boston.... as low as -18*F). Aside from a lot of clatter, I have never had a problem, the truck always fires immediately. I could never put a prt in my truck that could cause starting problems in cold weather (it seems that the problems start below 32*F???). Its too bad these problems haven't been resolved.
-Chris
Hey twaddle, have you or anyone else get ahold of Chris at Remark-Q regarding the cold start issue. Nothing from my end.
Hi TTM,
No I haven't heard anything since I spoke to him via email probably 6 to 8 weeks ago when we had a very cold snap of weather and I had no start at -6 degrees C. His reply was that they would have to get to the cause of this problem. It was around that point that I suggested that he contact you as you were in an area that had reliably cold weather and a cold weather no start situation.
I have always found him to be first class so far in contacting me, even taking the trouble to phone me one evening when I originally bought two units off him.
If I was you I would keep at him (keep us posted on how things are going) as your Sol-d unit has given trouble with starting in below zero temperatures since the day you got it as I recall, which really is not on and they should respond to it and better still come up with a reliable FSD.
I do find it strange that for all Remarq's attemps at impressing us and being initially keen to get feedback from us they do not respond to this subject thread.
As I said in a previous email on this thread we only have a limited window of time during the winter to find out and report this "cold weather No Start" problem and it would be encouraging to see that Remarq is actually being seen to be responding to our situation and letting us know what steps are being taken to solve the problem instead of suddenly going quiet. These units are not cheap to buy and we should not have to be installing extra batteries and relays to make them reliable.
It is certainly a big change to the company image they seemed to wish to convey way back at the start of being all up front and open.
If anyone is thinking of buying a Sol-D I would advice that you continue to carry the spare Stanadyne FSD cause you may need it.
Regards
Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland
I contacted Chris at Remar-q yesterday regarding my cold no start issues.
He indicated that they have froze the units down to -50c placed in trucks for testing and had no failures. He also indicated (again) that the unit needed 9 volts for operation and that if there was not 9 volts the unit would not work. I told him that I replaced my batteries and altenator and the trucks electrical system was in good working order and I was still having starting problems in the cold mornings after shut off evening (which I wasn't having before with the standanye fsd). He thought that my starter could be drawing too much from the system on cold mornings therefore bringing the voltage down.
Chris also said that he would take back my unit and have it rewired; and a relay could be directly wired into the batteries. I would have to (pay) for shipping the unit off the truck and labor for the rewiring.
My two cents, the Sol-D does work; almost to good. As trucks charging and starting systems get old, the weaker they get. For the Standayne unit they need only 4 volts to operate and I have seen trucks barely turn over but if the fsd is good it will fire.
I will keep the Sol-D on my truck only cause I paid good money for it, and I have no problem with starting when the truck is warm.
JohnC.......... and others, you fellas are better at the electrical systems of the 6.5's than I so mabey you can figure something out.
My starter is original equipment so it could be weak. I will pull it this weekend and have it tested for draw. What should I be looking for 100 amps? BTW I priced out a re-conditioned starter with trade in of the old one $342.26.
Since the product was designed for older vehicles that have less than "cherry" electrical systems it should accommodate the lower voltages associated with cold weather and weaker electrical systems. Had they been thoroughly tested this issue should have been discovered.
That said, it sounds like you need a 12v to 12v transformer of sorts to feed it. Basically, a regulated 13.8v output that will accept any input voltage down to say 6v and pep it up to 13.8. A UPS of sorts.
Or:
Has anyone tried a trailer breakaway battery/charger setup? Just keep it isolated from the main system during cranking.
It's all a band aid, but it sounds like something needs to be done...
93_Burrito
04-20-2006, 07:45
$342.26 for a reconditioned starter with a core? You gotta be kidding! I don't know what the present conversion rate is for U.S. to Canadian dollars, but I bought a new OE starter two months ago for $194 and no core required. Maybe you should give these guys a call. All they do is automotive electrical work.
Dressler's Electric Service
465 Rosstown Rd
Lewisberry, PA 17339
717-938-4685
P.S. $194 U.S. = $221 Canadian today. I checked.
Andy
TTegtmeier
04-22-2006, 11:41
I have a SOL-D on my 94 K2500 - Used it all winter. It was unusually warm this season, but we did get a few -20F nights. Started with out any problems.
I did have trouble until I simply added a solenoid to allow the Sol-D to be directly connected to the Driver's Side battery.
The first phase of this fix was to add a 3rd small lawn tractor battery attached to the system with a cutoff switch so that during starting it was isolated from the starting batteries - This worked great - the truck started like it was summer -even on a -5F morning without benefit of the block heater.
I found after trying some starts on -10f mornings that the extra battery wasn't needed.
The system has been running like this for some 10000 miles with out any starting problems. A $5 solenoid and some spare hookup wire and all is good.
Tim
Hey Tim, this could be the answer...... I'm pretty frustrated........ Tim, I'm not good with electronics but I can you please take the time and give me a step by step of how you did this? Thanks
TTegtmeier
04-23-2006, 19:40
TTM,
Perhaps I should have said Relay instead of Solenoid.
I wired it like this:
I cut the 'hot pink' wire in the Sol-D harnes. The side closest to the connector is connected one connector of the coil on the relay (#86) - the other coil connector goes to ground.(#85)
The pink wire on the Sold-D side goes to a Switched contact on the Relay (#35)- The other Switched contact goes to the Battery +.(#87) I put a fuse between the battery and the relay. I think it was a 10A.
The #'s are the contact numbers on the bottom of the 30A 'trailer light relay' I used.
I didn't come up with this all by myself - there were other posts describing this eariler - may have gotten lost in that earlier BB crash.
The logic is the same as adding a Relay to the OPS/LiftPump circuit to fix issues with the Lift-pump getting enough current/Voltage.
Tim
Thanks Tim for getting back to me so soon.
You'll have excuse my ignorance but from the hot pink wire I loose you. And after the pink wire I get totally lost.
Whats the "one connector of the coil on the relay.
"side goes to a Switched contact on the relay"
What does a relay look like?
Sorry Tim, hate for ya to spoon feed me this but really but never did much electrical work on trucks before, but if i start cuttin wires and I don't know what I'm doing I don't go to work. If you could go into a little more detail that would be great.
TTM, If Chris thinks the Sol-D is not to blame for the "Cold weather No start" why in some cases does the engine fire up after the Sol-D unit is warmed up.
TTM, did you mention to Chris that you also warmed up the unit and it fired up.
Surely that rules out the starter overloading the system and dropping the voltage to the Sol-D theory as the voltages would be the same or less after warming the Sol-D unit.
Regards
Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland
TTegtmeier
04-24-2006, 20:20
TTM
The 'Hot Pink' wire is the one that supplies the 12V to the SOL-D.
A Relay is just an electrical switch used to control a Higher Voltage or Higher Current curcuit with Lower voltage or lower current curcuit.
Relays are used in the HeadLight curcuit, for example, to allow the HeadLight switch to wired with smaller (lower current) wires, while giving the Headlights the benefit of larger wires.
In this case, we are using the 12V wire going to the SOL-D (the hot pink one) to control a curcuit that will provide a direct connection of the SOL-D to one of the Batteries.
This has, in my case, provided the SOL-D with sufficient voltage to operate even while the starter is is turning a cold engine.
So, the relay is 'switched on' using the voltage supplied by the 'hot pink' wire. (The end of the wire closest to the connector) This closes the contacts in the Relay allowing the Secondary curcuit ( the other end of the pink wire - the one closest to the Sol-D) to be directly connected to the + terminal of one of the batteries.
Take a look at a simple headlight schematic - see how the 'stock wiring' is used to control a high amp (current) curcuit to the headlights.
http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/headlight-simple.htm
Tim
Hey Tim, I think I'm kinda getting it. Correct me if I'm wrong but, What I'm thinkin is that after you cut the pink wire, the wire closest to connector goes on one side of the relay, and the wire closest to the sol-d goes into the other side of the relay and the then from the relay goes a wire to the postitive terminal of the battery. Do you have a diagram?
I think I under stand the function of the relay.
Question 1 What size of relay do you use?
Question 2 What gauge of wire do you use?
TTegtmeier
04-26-2006, 10:15
TTM,
I used some Wire I had lying around. I think it was some 12 gauge trailer light wire.
I cut the wire on the SOL-D harness. The end of the wire on the connector side is 'on' when the ignition is in the 'run' position. This is used to control the relay. Connect this to Pin #86 on the relay - connect #85 to ground.
The other end of the cut wire will supply the battery voltage to the SOL-D. Connect this to #3X on the Relay - depending on the size of the relay this number will reflect the Amp rating. If you get a 30Amp relay this will be #30, a 35 Amp Relay will have a pin #35. The last pin (#87) goes to the + battery terminal. (or the terminal block on the Passenger side of the firewall)
I put a fuse in-line (10A) with the wire to the +12V connection.
I see looking at the link in my last post that it shows Pins #30 and #87 reversed. This didn't seem to make a difference in the relay I used.
Tim
Thanks for your patience Tim, your last post makes sence. I will get the parts needed and try. I'll keep in contact.
The nights have been warm lately so I don't think I will notice a difference untill nights get colder.
Looks like this topic will soon go down the list so I'm going to write my story.
11-24-04
A new prodect came out and I just had to try it as a test to see how long it would last with a 5 year warrenty.
SOL-D installed @ 135,600. Replaced FSD, Bata cooler Intake mounted with 37,600 on it and still works.(back up)
#1 SOL-D replaced, No cold and raining start,@136,115 could be the washer issues. :(
Went to back up
#2 installed @ 136,200 2-18-05 SOL-D Model#205B
Now it's been two winters and one summers with 153,500 hard miles:)
No cold start issue? Truck is garaged over night and has set out in the cold for 8+ hrs. in 10-20 deg. during the day at jod site.Always started;)
Truck starts quick,cold or hot and has great power.
Looks like for me time will tell;)
One of the last true users:p
Hi TTM,
How you getting on with the modification to the wiring for the Sol-D?
If you got it done have you noticed any difference to starting the engine when cold?
By the way I'll be heading over to Canada in 5 weeks time to write a trade exam for my Heavy Equipment Mechanic qualifications.
Regards
Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland
tommac95
05-03-2006, 10:26
>>TTM, If Chris thinks the Sol-D is not to blame for the "Cold weather No start" why in some cases does the engine fire up after the Sol-D unit is warmed up.
TTM, did you mention to Chris that you also warmed up the unit and it fired up.
Surely that rules out the starter overloading the system and dropping the voltage to the Sol-D theory as the voltages would be the same or less after warming the Sol-D unit.
Regards Jim Twaddle Biggar, Scotland
Jim-- The discovery that artificially warmed Sol-Ds oft fire in cold ambient conditions (when they otherwise don't) is almost certainly as you surmised, namely the increased semiconductor conduction with increasing temperature , (the opposite effect as increasing resistance in metallic conductors as temps rise).
The reason the Sol-Ds don't fire (at least on some/many vehicles) when cold is apparently due to the design limitation , namely that they aren't designed to operate when their input voltage drops below 9V.
Most automotive control circuits are designed to work over a wide voltage range , as 4-40 volts . I will wager that the remarque Sol-D was designed specifically not to switch output power specifically because that would potentially stress the output (driver) transistors {power mosfets} . I will dare to suggest that this was an example of 'conservative design' , which design is helpful at warm temperatures (keep in mind that heat kills electronics).
There is essentially no doubt that the operation of the starter in frigid conditions will lower all system voltages and most all circuit voltages onboard.
The relay option is maybe ok , but a solid-state patch from the mfgr would be more like it . A better design would allow the Sol-D to operate at low voltages for a period of time IFF the ambient temps are cold {the design limit would have been imposed to prevent heat dissipation from damaging the transistors (heat from high current drawn to supply adequate power at low voltages)} .
John Kennedy has demonstrated his concern for reliability by not yet endorsing the thing, and his comment to the effect that 'if it had been tested in Canadian winter , as advertised , there wouldn't be a problem' , is pretty well on target .
If some vehicles DO start in frigid ambient temps , then possibly some harness tweeks may help . I've installed ground wires from battery to starter bolts on all my vehicles since my 6V VW, which needed it . If the Sol-D circuit 'works' to start the test truck , or a reasonable portion of the target-market vehicles [in the cold temps in question] we can't blame Sol-D too much .
It represents an advance to not have to attempt to control a truck with a stalled engine , moving with negligible brakes/steering . It is a bitter solution/pill that the 'improvement' involves not starting the truck when cold!
ronniejoe
05-03-2006, 11:17
If I can unplug the SOL-D after a cold no-start and do nothing else but plug in the Stanadyne FSD and get the engine to start, how can it not be a SOL-D problem. I won't endorse this thing either.
>>
.
John Kennedy has demonstrated his concern for reliability by not yet endorsing the thing, and his comment to the effect that 'if it had been tested in Canadian winter , as advertised , there wouldn't be a problem' , is pretty well on target .
As I said when this think first came out it again appears that the buyers are the testers!
Not a good situation.
Glad to see the string is still going.
BTW-(-4 this morning about 25F) didn't plug the truck in and no start, warmed the sol d up and fired up.
Jim, I have not rewired the unit
Tom, your note hits the nail on the head. I can't remember if I told Chris about the warming of the unit. But I will though.
Bottom line after this morning I have had enough....I bought this product to replace my fsd and it's not working.....I am not going to rewire the unit for warrenty purposes but what I will do is keep in contact with Chris and THEY can find a solution to the problem and exchange my unit in for one that works. If they can't I move on to the Kennedy unit.
Jim, Tom, Tim you fellas know more about the 6.5's electronics than I and it might help if you guys talk to Chris to.
Tom Mac and TTM,
I have tested the voltages at the battery and also at the Sol-D while going through the starting procedure from turning the ignition on, checking voltage as the glow plugs cycled then when the engine was cranking over, even on a not so cold day it is suprising how close to the 9 volts that the system drops down to. The voltage drop at the Sol-D was 0.14volt if I remember.
If the engine fires up after a "no start" and the only thing that has been done is warm up the Sol-D then the Sol-D is at fault, heating up the Sol-D is not going to have any effect or improve the voltage at the batteries.
The voltage reaching the Sol-D must have been at least 9volts which rules out the vehicles system as is the case with TTM's.
I'd also be surprised if Chris at Sol-D is not keeping an eye on this thread.
It would be interesting to hear from everyone who has had trouble getting their engine to fire up on cold days with the Sol-D installed.
I still believe that this is a potentially dangerous problem that could easily lead to someone with their family being stranded in sub zero conditions with unthinkable results. If only for this reason alone Chris should get this situation fixed.
Not everyone carries a spare Stanadyne unit to start the engine when the Sol-d won't do it.
Funny, wasn't the sol-d supposed to do away with having no start faults and having to carry spare PMD's?????
I will make contact with Chris and see if he will do something about it although despite contacting him earlier in the winter I still have not been informed of any solution.
Regards
Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland
I spoke with Chris earlier this winter and he was of the mind set that the vehicle was the issue. I made a temporary fix to my rig with a small battery mounted on an isolator and run the main power feed to the Sol D from it through a small relay opperated by the original Sol D 12v feed line.
Taking the unit off and warming it up worked just as good though.
Still the idea of getting standed in the cold is not a good one.
Swap out the DS4 and replace with a DB2 and be done with it.
With my engine down now for repairs I very well may give the DB2 swap a go.
arveetek
05-04-2006, 09:23
I had FSD problems in October. I almost bought the SOL-D, but decided to go with Kennedy's Stanadyne FSD on a remote-mounted cooler. I'm so glad I did, especially after reading all these posts. I haven't had a single issue since, and the truck started great all winter. I'm really happy with my DS4 6.5L.
Casey
After close to 2 yrs are we any closer to a verdict? According to RemarQ FAQ under question #9 Were any kind of failures reported from the field?Quote "A small number of field failures were reported in November 2004."
So what's the verdict?
To buy or not to buy?
I have one on my 94 and its great. The only exception was a cold no start issue last winter and this has popped up with a few other owners too.
I can very well live with having to have a factory PMD on a cooler for the few really cold days in the winter versus the failures due to heat. My 94 just got an overhaul and it still has the Sol D on it and runs sweet.
I think Remarq should address the cold issue but we shall see.
I'm on my 3rd year. Hear in the USA,I live in the northen part of Indiana and it can get cold though I have not had the cold start issue. The SOL-D handles the Hot wheather very will and would be good where your at.
As long as your Elect. system is in top shape you should not have the voltage drop issue that has plag the SOL-D. The FSD cooler mount system is more forgiving with a voltage drop,cold temps. The SOL-D runs cooler,starting in hot temps has no effect with this unit.
ronniejoe
07-19-2006, 05:19
I personally would not recommend the unit. It has too much radio interference, surges on downgrades with cruise engaged and will not start when cold.
Thanks Ron and others.
By the way Ron I enjoyed reading your Three stage write up.
Cheers,
Noel
After a long winter this is my first summer with the Sol-D and things are going fine (warmer weather) will have a few bucks on hand for the Kennedy Unit though for when the temps start to drop.
Has any one heard from Chris at Remar-Q addressing the cold start issues?
Has anyone tried using better batteries to cope with the voltage drop, eg Optima Red top?
After a long winter this is my first summer with the Sol-D and things are going fine (warmer weather) will have a few bucks on hand for the Kennedy Unit though for when the temps start to drop.
Has any one heard from Chris at Remar-Q addressing the cold start issues?
I have E-mailed him a couple of times but he has of yet to answer:rolleyes:
Has anyone tried using better batteries to cope with the voltage drop, eg Optima Red top?
Also a good ideal. Batterys,cables,grounds,contacts and charging system are always a must with these diesel. The radio noise is on AM station that I don't use any way. RJ with the cruse issue I have not yet seen that in my truck. His Sub and my truck are the same so why the difference? Not sure.
I still see where the SOL-D is better in the heat. (IMAO) Normal life on my truck with the FSD,Bata cooler has been around 35K.or less. Granted this has also been manfold mounted where the SOL-D now sets. SOL-D is past that mark. I can't say for sure on the SOL-D, Good or Bad. I paid for one and will use it till it gives out,how long will that be? It's already paid for it self IMAO.
Saved me from needing to buy a new pump,(code 35 issue) and less starter wear. EZ'er on the batterys.
We have red top optima batteries in our 94 and I really believe the cables can be a serious issue in the cold.
The GM right side cable has the large lead that feeds that starter and the little smaller wire with it is the feed for the chassis. The small wire follows the main cable down past the starter and goes behind the engine and up into the junction block on the 94, the later trucks do it differently though. When I did the overhaul here recently I replaced all the wiring on the engine and all the battery cables, so we will see come this winter. The side terminal cables are subject to corrosion under the red jacket that you cant see and or clean. Mine were soldered into the crimp but the core of the cables was all green and corroded Hmmmmmmmmm Might have been an issue, do ya think??? :0) Interestingly my other Sub that I drive every day has horrible battery cables that have been bolted onto the terminal in a haphazard way by the previous owner/s and it always started up fine, but it has a FSD still in the factory spot. The Sol D is great in the warm weather for sure.
The only time we had trouble was at temps below 25F and then if I took the Sol D off the truck and left it sitting behind the pellet stove all night and stuck it on before the first start in the morning it worked fine.
I really am not sure why this would make all the difference if the issue is voltage as Remarq has stated???
In Closing I am sure glad to have a good O'll DB2 on my little 6.2 in my Hummer replica
Just checking the specs and The Optima Yellow Top has an open circuit voltage Fully Charged of 13.1 v where as the Red Top has open Circuit Voltage Fully Charged of 12.8V.
I wonder whether the extra 0.3 Volts would make a difference in the cold.
I rather doubt that the .3 will do it.
The issue with the Sol D is that the feed source for it comes a long way and its small wire. The voltage drop especially in cold weather is a bunch. The Sol D will not funtion if the voltage is below about 9.5.
The best way to combat this is to wire a relay to feed direct battery power the the 12V line of the Sol D eliminating all the other goodies sucking power along the way.
tommac95
08-27-2006, 20:04
>>I really am not sure why this would make all the difference if the issue is voltage as Remarq has stated???
Quite likely it would/does. The action in transistors is pretty involved , but suffice it to say that when transistors are used to amplify or switch, the activity involves a sort of "excitation" of that region of the semiconductor designed for just this activity. Heat also excites the region , and some transistors are actually designed to be activated by light! But the 'proof in the pudding' , so to say , is that in (or accompanying) our vehicles' alternators there is circuitry to protect against overcharging when the thing warms up. I think that is a key reason why the InstrumentPanel volt meter has a higher reading when driving in very cold weather than in summer conditions {the other probably being that the batteries are resistant to charging when cold}; that is , protection of the solidstate regulator against thermal run-away. Electrical engineers need consider their designs to compensate for the effects of heat on component operation. In every CableTV coax amplifier , designed to perform year-round under all ambient outdoor weather conditions, there's a feedback circuit designed to maintain the power level as set , rather than drifting with temps.
My guess : the SOL'd has an avalanche type driver
IE:
It fires when the input reaches a Specific Differantel voltage as compared to the VCC (battery)applied. Below that voltage, NO Output.
This is what makes it run cooler, and have a faster turn on time. It is not linear but more like a relay ON/OFF
Where the Standyne has a regular ordinary power transiter, IE: voltage out is referanced to voltage in.
less voltage in less voltage out, so it will work under
lower operating voltages, probably at voltages less than that would turn the starter.
I never posted this but last year I bought a Sol-D and waited a gillion years for it to be shipped. It installed easily and started right up. The only problem I experienced was a very noticeable miss at highway speeds (noticeable because my neck was constantly wobbling back and forth, but slight enough that it did not show on the tachometer). It was very irritating. I was told by the manufacturer (Chris?) that a new version was coming out that might have that issue fixed and to please wait. I waited 3 months and finally requested a refund, which they did but minus all shipping costs, which I thought was not a very classy act considering all I went through. I bought the simple FSD kit with heatsink from ssdieselsupply, which was $100 less as I recall, and I never had a better running truck (no wobbles). No miss at all, so I know it was the Sol-D. However, many others do not have that "miss" issue. Sol-D wrote back and said my returned Sol-D unit tested perfectly for them both in a truck and on their bench test. I feel bad that mine did not work because I love to support innovative ideas.
BoatDriver
10-18-2006, 07:54
About two years ago I bought a Sol D unit. The reason was, I had purchased the Kennedy's Stanadyne FSD, six months later it took a dump. I called Kennedy, very nice person, NO WARRANTY. Chris said I'll back this unit for as long as you own the truck. The day I installed the unit, the truck didn't start. To make a very long story short. I kept both units bolted to the top of the intake manifold. On colder mornings I used the Stanadyne unit to start the engine. When the Stanadyne unit dumped, I'd switched to the Sol D unit. When the first winter (Wisconsin) came, I sent the unit back to Chris. The shipping was $13. Chris sent another unit back to me, different serial number than the unit I sent him, shipping on the return from Canada was $55. Plugged in the new unit, truck started right up. The first cold snap, truck didn't start. Called Chris, he gave me the "Need a minimum of 9 volts to start." I know this to be true, when the Stanadyne unit dumped, I'd plug in the Sol D, if the engine had run long enough to heat up the engine, it started right up. When the engine was too cold, with the Sol D plugged in, the engine would start when I let the key move from "Start" to "ON" as the engine was spinning down. I didn't care, the engine was running. Last Saturday I installed the relay for the Sol D. Truck has been starting every morning since, temp as low as 35 degrees. I'll keep both units on the engine anyway.
I had one of the original SOL-D's on my 1500 95 Suburban and after about 3000 miles it gave out. This happened back in November of 04. After calling Chris at RemarQ, he sent me a replacement right out. This was one of the reworked units with the new transistors. I have 16000 miles on this unit and it works great. I don't have the interference problem on the am radio that some talk about so I am very pleased with the unit. I do replace batteries every three years automatically (I developed this practice years ago from using work trucks that sit out all the time) I also purchased a spare SOL-D just in case the one in the truck would crap out while I was away from home.
Today, my 2500 95 Suburban wouldn't start. 30 Degrees out side this is my work truck and it sits outside all the time. This truck has 153000 and I assume the original FSD.
10 minutes and I had my spare SOL-D installed and I was up and running.http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/images/icons/icon7.gif
I will probably get a couple of extension cables and spare FSD's in the future. In the meantime I am very happy with the SOL-D's
N9Phil
Adam, did Chris at Remar-Q give you a answer as to when the new version was coming out? And was the new version going to address the cold start and the 9 volt issue?
My FSD solution has been a simple (and inexpensive) one. Between parts yards and friends that work at dealerships, I have two or three used FSD's on hand. All were free. There are lots more out there as these trucks and engines are going out of service daily.
Why buy new?
Hi,
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.