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MVDyken
11-09-2005, 18:36
Hi there this is mainly for mr kennedy but others are welcome . Should I be concerned about a 93 short block that has around 20,000 miles on it and in Amboy Illinios thanks for your help

tbogemirep
11-10-2005, 22:13
In what regard, tons of stuff to be on lookout for, can you narrow it down a bit, better answers the better the question

Kennedy
11-11-2005, 09:00
So you are looking at a used short block? I really can't comment much on this as there is no way of knowing condition. Seller could promise anything, but without seeing and hearing it run...

Why is it for sale, and why short block vs long block?

You'll have to weigh the cost vs. a known good warranted long block. We just set up Greg at Lube Specialist with a long block and from what I gather he's been impressed. Greg has had a rocky road in getting a good engine for his (former) 95 that his son? is now driving.

$4450 gets a top shelf long block in a NEW casting latest edition block built to OEM factory stock specs and a 2 yr warranty. Sorry, no options.

LanduytG
11-11-2005, 14:22
Well thought I could report that its up and running but the phone started ringing about 1pm and didn't stop. But all I have to do is put on the turbo and cross over in the morning.

This engine is new. Meaning new block, heads, pistons and rods. The rest might be new but its hard to tell. I got to seen the place when I picked the motor up and its a first class operation. They are moving intop a bigger place and were installing new test dynos. Every engine built gets run. The best part is the unlimited mileage warranty. For someone that drives a lot like my son is now its worth a little extra.

I wish I had done this 2 years ago. But 30K miles and 2 motors later I did.

Will keep you posted on who she runs tomorrow.

Greg

MVDyken
11-12-2005, 09:11
I am in need of a short block because I want to start a 6.5 project and keep the original motor in my 6.5 so I can keep on driving it. I want everthing done as perfect as possible so this will take a long time to complete. For the project I had in mind of twin turbos dual alternators 18:1 pistons girle kit splayed main caps custom oil pan ported and polished bored out alittle so a bluprinted blcok is what I am really trying to say. It on ebay and was for a 94 pickup but never got used. It is also the only one on ebay too. web page 6.5 short block (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6-5-Chevy-Chevrolet-Diesel-Short-Block-4x4-NR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33613QQitemZ80131752 06QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)

LanduytG
11-13-2005, 04:38
Well the new motor is up and running great. After priming the fuel system it only cranked a bit then fired.

Oil pressure is the best this truck has ever seen. Its even better than when the truck was new. At warm idle it runs about 12psi. Anything above idle and it moves up quickly. At 2000 rpm its running 50psi and if you run it to red line it will get up the 60psi. The last motor had trouble from the very start and even getting to 40psi wide open. I complained but to no avail.

After driving it hard for the first 45 miles the blow by is almost gone and oil is still so clean you really have to look to see it. The other motor had trouble blow by and oil was turning color almost right away.

After driving it the 45 miles I put the vacuum gauge on the dip stick tube and we had a vacuum and the CDR held it to 4". The other motor always hasd a positive pressure and I was always having to repair leaks because of it.

Also seem very snapping and performs better than the old motor.

Started it this morning and it barely turned over and was runnning. But thats because of the stock compression, but its also a better ring seal.

I will be driving it around today and be changing oil in it. It will then be going back to my son who will be putting at least 500 miles a week on it. So the miles will add up quick and we can see how it does.

I have a very good feeling about this one. I highlyt recommend anyone doing a rebuild to call JK and get one these great motors. If you are going to stay stock this is the only way to go. I spent way more money on 2 motors than I did on this for all practical purposes new motor. Oh well live and learn. Also the warranty is better than ANYONE elses.

Greg

JoeyD
11-13-2005, 14:54
12psi at idle? Isn't that low?

LanduytG
11-13-2005, 14:58
Not at all, the other engine didn't make any more than 8psi. Should be 40psi at 2000rpm and this is way over that.

Greg

ronniejoe
11-13-2005, 15:06
Originally posted by MVDyken:
I want everthing done as perfect as possible so this will take a long time to complete. For the project I had in mind of twin turbos dual alternators 18:1 pistons girle kit splayed main caps custom oil pan ported and polished bored out alittle so a bluprinted blcok is what I am really trying to sayMake sure you read this article. (http://www.thedieselpage.com/members/features/schoolcraft2.htm)

Kennedy
11-14-2005, 13:21
Originally posted by LanduytG:
Well thought I could report that its up and running but the phone started ringing about 1pm and didn't stop. But all I have to do is put on the turbo and cross over in the morning.

This engine is new. Meaning new block, heads, pistons and rods. The rest might be new but its hard to tell. I got to seen the place when I picked the motor up and its a first class operation. They are moving intop a bigger place and were installing new test dynos. Every engine built gets run. The best part is the unlimited mileage warranty. For someone that drives a lot like my son is now its worth a little extra.

I wish I had done this 2 years ago. But 30K miles and 2 motors later I did.

Will keep you posted on who she runs tomorrow.

Greg Just wanted to clarify that the only definite new parts (promised) are the block and pistons/rings/bearings etc. Heads/rods/crank may be reman units, but it sure seems like many of them are new...

Kennedy
11-14-2005, 13:25
Originally posted by MVDyken:
I am in need of a short block because I want to start a 6.5 project and keep the original motor in my 6.5 so I can keep on driving it. I want everthing done as perfect as possible so this will take a long time to complete. For the project I had in mind of twin turbos dual alternators 18:1 pistons girle kit splayed main caps custom oil pan ported and polished bored out alittle so a bluprinted blcok is what I am really trying to say. It on ebay and was for a 94 pickup but never got used. It is also the only one on ebay too. web page 6.5 short block (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6-5-Chevy-Chevrolet-Diesel-Short-Block-4x4-NR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33613QQitemZ80131752 06QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW) The picture is of an electronic engine by the looks of it. I think I can see the reluctor??

Not that it makes a difference, but inconsistencies can some times lead to more questions.

Blocks are hard to find, but a used short block isn't really worth that much IMHO, especially if it is disassembled.

twaddle
11-14-2005, 23:11
Greg,
Can I suggest that you check the engines oil pressure using a calibrated test gauge just to compare with your trucks gauge readings.

12psi IS too low for a rebuilt engine. My 96 Suburban has over 147000 miles on it and is no where near 12 psi at idle. If it did drop down to that figure I would be expecting to be doing some work on it some time soon.

Regards

Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland

LanduytG
11-15-2005, 01:45
Those tests are with a guage. 12psi is not low at idle, thats more than enough. When this truck was new in 95 it was never any better than that.

Greg

MVDyken
02-12-2006, 20:52
I don't know 12Psi does sound a little low My 94 with 140,000 idles with 32 or so psi and about 50 at 2500 rpm Just a thought though

rlvelin
02-13-2006, 07:37
I've always understood that 10 psi per 1000 rpms is all that is needed. Of course that was for gassers, maybe a little more for diesels would be good but with 12psi at 700-800 rpm I think should suffice IMHO.

With respect to the engines JK sells, I put one in back in June and it has been great (have about 10,000 miles on it). Since the block is supposed to be an improvement on what has been produced in the past, if it holds up then it is worth the price. If you want to build the 'perfect' engine then you've got to start with a good foundation (the block).

All the other components looked to be either new or excellent quality remanufactured. It had a remanufactured (I think) high volume Melling oil pump which produces 30-40psi at idle and up to 80psi when accelating. The crank looked new and John can correct me if I'm wrong but I think they also promise a new cam and lifters. I don't know if the heads were new or reman but I couldn't find any gouges, scratches, other tool marks or dings to suggest they were used.

Ryan

[ 02-13-2006, 06:59 AM: Message edited by: rlvelin ]