PDA

View Full Version : Not strictly Duramax, but...



JohnC
04-20-2006, 07:55
I want to mount the brake controller in one of the cubby holes in the center console. Can anyone give me a 20 step process to get access to the back of the console?

Thanx...

SoTxPollock
04-20-2006, 10:13
ARE YOU SURE? I mounted mine just to the right of my stearing wheel underneath the dash that way the little light doesn't shine in my eyes at night and all I have to do is move my head a little forward and look down to see it all is well. Also I can reach the controller with my right hand very quickly if need be and there are times that you may not want to apply any truck brake but just trailer brake, like when you blow a rear truck tire running down a long mountain grade, it'll save your life if you can get to the controler and apply the trailer brakes without trying to use the truck brakes. Just something to consider.

JohnC
04-20-2006, 13:58
The reasons you cite are precisely why I wanted it in the console! Really, it's only about 6" to the right and a little closer to me. And I don't have it so close to my knee.

So, I figured it out. I'm just leery of pulling to hard on something if I don't know for sure how it comes apart. Turns out you have to pull the panel bezel part way off then pull the section with the cubby holes off. Piece of cake.

Caution! The tag that comes with the wiring harness says that if you have the optional second battery, you don't use the included fuse. They even give the option code. Well, the second battery apparently is not the optional battery, so the RPO code was not there, so I figured the fuse was required. Well, it's not. The red wire is hot as soon as you plug the harness in.

So, if I short this thing out, what will I blow?

SoTxPollock
04-27-2006, 10:33
I did all the control wiring first and checked it out with a meter for continuiety before I ever plugged in the harness to the truck, just to be sure, but if you shorted somethig out it would probably be the tail light or park light fuse or something small like that. I noticed that after I plugged in the harness that I did not have any power to the auxillary power prong on the back plug, but I don't know if it ever did before I plugged in the harness, but like you said we have no auxillary battery they're both hot all the time.

JohnC
04-27-2006, 11:34
... I noticed that after I plugged in the harness that I did not have any power to the auxillary power prong on the back plug, ...

That was going to be my next question...

So, what if anything protects the circuit for the trailer brakes and what do you have to do to get power to the "+" connector in the trailer plug?

DmaxMaverick
04-27-2006, 12:19
The trailer lighting/braking has their own fuses in the underhood fuse panel. You will need to install a fuse in the same panel to get 12V trailer power. The fuse should have been bundled with the OEM trailer brake harness, with instructions. There is a note about not needing one with an "auxilary battery", but as said above, the Diesels don't have this feature. A gasser with a second battery would apply.

JohnC
04-28-2006, 10:15
OK, call me stupid!

I figured, since I was installing the brake controller harness, that the attached fuse was for the brake controller. Duh! Imagine my surprise when I found that the wire I was working on was hot the whole time. Then, when I went to wire the interior lights to the "+" terminal, I found it was dead.

So, as far as I can tell, the fuse is for "Stud 1" which is the "+" terminal in the trialer plug, and the fuse for "Stud 2" powers the trailer brake controller.

So, I hav always used a self resetting circuit breaker for the brakes in the past. Any idea if there is one made that fits where the fuse is? Or should I break into the wiring after the fuse and put a jumper in place of the fuse?

DmaxMaverick
04-28-2006, 12:25
OK, call me stupid!

......So, I hav always used a self resetting circuit breaker for the brakes in the past. Any idea if there is one made that fits where the fuse is? Or should I break into the wiring after the fuse and put a jumper in place of the fuse?

There are other CB's there, just grab a # off one, and adjust the amperage accordingly. You'd do better using a connector (or modify a fuse) to allow an inline CB if you can't get a pop-in. No need to break into the wire harness. Be sure to use a HD, slow trip CB, to accommodate peak surges...but I'm sure you already know that.......

JohnC
04-28-2006, 13:46
OK, one more question. I'm always trying to find reason amongst chaos, so, tell me, why would they install the fuse for the brake control circuit, which may never get installed,and NOT install the fuse for the factory installed trailer plug, and attach that fuse to the harness for the brake controller?

DmaxMaverick
04-28-2006, 15:17
Liability. Plain and simple. GM wouldn't want some yahoo to hook up his brake controller, assume it's working, then drive off a cliff because his brakes didn't work as advertised. On the same note, it wouldn't be a good idea to have a 12V hot wire haning under the frame if it isn't being used. The 12V for the brake controller is inside an access block, not a loose wire terminated nowhere. The only selectible option is the camper harness, which is a bundle of dead end wires tied to the frame near the front of the bed. Trucks may, or may not, have this, depending on the RPO. Not everyone wires their truck/trailer IAW the industry standard.

JohnC
04-30-2006, 12:51
On mine the trailer plug was already installed and wired. No loose wires hanging under the truck. The pin marked "+" was dead. Meanwhile, while I was merrily working away on the brake controller, fuse in hand, assuming it was not live, it was in fact hot the whole time.

DmaxMaverick
04-30-2006, 13:58
On mine the trailer plug was already installed and wired. No loose wires hanging under the truck. The pin marked "+" was dead. Meanwhile, while I was merrily working away on the brake controller, fuse in hand, assuming it was not live, it was in fact hot the whole time.

Does your truck have the camper accommodation option? If so, you still have a dead end wire bundle near the front of the bed on the driver's side. I didn't see where it was a selectible option for 2006. Perhaps they've included it with the towing package?

Rhoward225
05-01-2006, 02:44
Does your brake controller have an inertia switch?

JohnC
05-01-2006, 07:57
Does your brake controller have an inertia switch?

Not really a switch, but it has an inertia sensor. Tekonsha Voyager

Rhoward225
05-01-2006, 08:45
I LIKED THE IDEA TO MOUNT THE CONTROLLER IN THE "CUBBY" / " "POCKET".
THE ONLY THING i WAS THINKING WAS IT WOULD BE HARD TO ADJUST FOR INERTIA IF IT WERE MOUNTED THERE. LIKE IF YOU HOOKED UP TO SOMETHING HEAVIER , AND IT SUNK THE BACK END OF THE TRUCK WHICH WOULD AFFECT YOUR REGULAR SETTING. CUZ MOST ARE ON THE SIDE OF THE UNIT.
I CRANKED MINE ALL THE WAY, SO MINE DOES NOT FUNCTION. IT GOT ON MY NERVES. I HAVE ADUAL STAGE, AND WHEN INERTIA SWITCH TRIGGERED, HALF OF THE TIME IT WOULD TRY TO LOCK THE BRAKES UP.
JUST A THOUGHT.........