Update on electronic to mechanical IP

[DickWells]

The Sub. is working great. Still all grins every time I drive it. Got the shifting working quite well. I can lift my foot and shift just about where I want to. Lots more get up and go.
Just found out where my tach drive wire is, (circuit #121 White at connecter #200 - under glove box. Where's the generater? Anybody willing to tell me? Can't find it in the Helm manual. The after market cruise is all in except that lousy wire to the tach. Maybe tomorrow.
Why wouldn't anyone want to (revert) to mechanical? If things keep going this well, I may have 3 FSD's and a remote harness/heat-sink for sale.
FWIW, Dick.

[MEdlin]

Dick,

Has this conversion been a real pain, or did it go fairly smooth? I have a 94 Sub 3/4 ton. Great truck, but I've been fighting a PMD problem for the last 6 months.

[CareyWeber]

Originally posted by Dick Wells:
The Sub. is working great. Still all grins every time I drive it. Got the shifting working quite well. I can lift my foot and shift just about where I want to. Lots more get up and go.
Just found out where my tach drive wire is, (circuit #121 White at connecter #200 - under glove box. Where's the generater? Anybody willing to tell me? Can't find it in the Helm manual. The after market cruise is all in except that lousy wire to the tach. Maybe tomorrow.
Why wouldn't anyone want to (revert) to mechanical? If things keep going this well, I may have 3 FSD's and a remote harness/heat-sink for sale.
FWIW, Dick. Dick

I think the alternator ("P connecctor on the alternator).

Carey

[DickWells]

MEdlin: I wouldn't say that it's like falling off a log, but based on what I've experienced with the electronics since I bought the Sub. in 98 with 64k on it, I feel right now that I should have done this in 99.
There are a few caveats.
* You need Jim Bigley's books.
* you need all the posts from the DP on the subject that you can get your hands (eyes) on.
* You need to resolve that the dread is always worse than the doing.
*You need to get a GOOD pump from someone that you can trust, that knows how to put in a marine head and rotor, and maybe even give you a new pump body, to boot. The big wear area with the DB2 is the cross-pump bore for the advance circuit. There are oversize pistons, or whatever they call the internals, that are made in steps of a couple of thousandths, so a worn bore isn't nessessarily a show stopper. But, if the shop where you get the thing isn't competent, then you could end up with a crappy running truck. The ag units for pumps, tractors, etc. are cast iron, instead of alluminum, so this bore wear thing is not a problem. I'm sure that there are other issues with the DB2 that I haven't learned about, yet.
* It's pretty well proven, by Kennedy, and others that a remote mounted FSD, on a heat sink, plus close attention to ALL of your grounds, will net you a fairly reliable 6.5. You need to keep studying the lousy thing, and remember what was wrong last time you got it back on the road.
* If you're otherwise happy with the power that you have, then maybe it's not worth the hastle.
Take a look at my profile, and note all the time and expense that I've gone through. There are things, (like the Phazer gears and big IC) that I would do before I considered changing to mechanical IP. Part of my rational was that I anticipated more power, and I think I got it. Bear in mind that I have never had an issue with transmission or engine temperatures. I would deal with any of those issues before I would think of puting in a mechanical pump.
Note that I had my pump a year ago, now, and just got around to install it. Also, my pump came from a 93 one-ton van, so my injecter lines were the right size, too. Also, my pump cost me $1200, too. You can get a new DS4 for that, I think. But, my pump is brand new, and well set up, so I'm happy. Your results may vary, as they say.
Hope I haven't confused you. Just a few notes that crossed my mind.
Good luck.
Dick
PS: I trailer all over the country every winter, and I got tired of the hiccups every once in a while, and not knowing if the next one would be the one to stop me on the road. Hopefully, with one wire to worry about, I can (maybe) relax a little on the road. Funny thing. The only time I've ever had the thing fail, was in Pheonix, in traffic, in the heat, in danger, and it cost me $137.00 to find out that the Banks chip had fallen out of the ECM! I had taken the ECM out, there on the road, to check the connections, and all I had to do was shake it and I could have heard the thing rattle in there. Could have been back on the way in five minutes, instead of five hours!

[Barry Nave]

Add another check to my trouble list,
Chip in ECM :D