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Truckie117
06-03-2006, 18:28
Hi Guys
Am Converting to Veg Oil and I Have a few questions. What is the pressure from the lift pump to the ip?
What is the Max pressure the IP can take.
Relocating the pmd has anyone used artic silver instead of the pad that comes with the unit to mount it to the heat sink?

Thanks
I will post some Pics of the transformation as it happens.

Hubert
06-05-2006, 14:31
The OE lift pump doesn't have much pressure. 1-4 or 5 psi depending on load of engine. Some report the engine can use all the fuel supplied by LP leaving 0 psi with a few mods.

I have read posts the DS IP can take something like 17 or 19 psi (less than 20 psi) with out problem.

Truckie117
06-05-2006, 15:55
Thanks
I am using a seperate fuel pump for the VO side of the fuel delivery. I did not want to get a pump that was too powerfull.

MTTwister
06-05-2006, 16:04
I used some Jameson's Heat Sink Compound - slathered it on the FSD and screwed it down ( or up) as the case may be. edit - check the transistor nuts for "proper torque" - finger tight + 1/8 turn...

More Power
06-05-2006, 21:30
GM's stated minimum acceptable fuel pressure for the lift pump is 4 psi with the engine idling. Most electric lift pumps generate about 7-8 psi, which as noted above will drop when the vehicle is accelerating or is under load.

Jim

Bornready6.5
06-08-2006, 10:31
I recommend upgrading your fuel line size to 3/8 to the IP. I run 3/8 fuel line and made a custom fitting to go into the IP. I also switched over to CAT fuel filters.

I run the Holley Blue LP. It runs at 14 psi, and I have had no problems. The holley blue adapts easily into the fatory LP position and I even wired it to the factory LP power supply.

I dont do WVO...but I do run homemade B100.

brianblack138
06-08-2006, 15:27
A facet/purolator pump will serve the purpose, the holley blue might be a bit high pressure. I just made a second fuel system by adding an additional tank, lift pump, filter and fuel return hose and plumbed it in with 2 3-way solenoid valves. The valves run diesel by default (no power to the valves) and when I flip a switch, it engages the valves switching to VO and turns on the facet lift pump. This minimizes alteration of the stock fuel system and also lets you use a different filter for VO (which is likely to be dirtier) and heat that filter.

Really the only things you have to do are:
1) use clean VO (filtered down to 5 microns prior to putting it in your tank)
2) use DRY VO (choose good oil, remove particulates and let water settle out)
3) make sure the VO is up to 165 degrees prior to switching

As long as you do that, you can use pretty much whatever method you want.

Some things i've found in converting my 6.5 are that you need to make sure the thermostat and fan clutch are working otherwise the engine will never really heat up hot enough. Flat plate heat exchangers are excellent for heating up fuel. Try to run your system in a way that you aren't heating your diesel, as it will cause the fuel to lose lubricity if you heat diesel up to 165 degrees.

Truckie117
06-08-2006, 19:50
I will have seperate tank filter and pump start on diesel then with 2 valves to go from diesel to vo then purge the vo and back to diesel to shut down. Wish me luck.

brianblack138
06-09-2006, 10:22
I did something similar and used a modified frybrid design (you can find the schematics for free on the frybrid.com website in the forums under diagrams/images) where I looped the return back to the IP but also put in a T to a return line with a needle valve. This way the majority of the fuel loops back to the IP (reducing the volume of cold VO i have to heat and maximizing the efficiency since you don't lose all the VO you've just heated back to your tank through the return line) but there is still a path through the needle valve for any air bubbles to escape back out to the VO tank. With the addition of one extra 3 port solenoid you can rig it so when you apply power to the solenoid you bypass the IP loop and dump directly back to the VO tank. This allows you to do a "fast purge" if you don't feel like driving on diesel until the VO in the return lines is used up.

Check out the forums at biodiesel.infopop.com and also check the free schematics on www.vegoilconversions.com for a neat (and cheap) way to plumb in a temp guage to your VO fuel system.

You can get cheap flat plate heat exchangers through www.omarsales.com. In my opinion these are the best bang for the buck. They get the VO up to coolant temp in no time and are very well built. Wrap them in some silver pipe insulation, bolt to the inside wheel well, frame or firewall and hook up the hoses following the instructions and your VO will be HOTT!

You can also get a lot of quality components through neofuels/plantdrive (plantdrive.com) and they seem to be very responsive and helpful. Check around because some of their products are a bit pricey.

PM me if you want more detailed information on my setup and a copy of the schematics I used.