RV APPLICATION FOR THE 6.5l

[dene57k]

I am interested in any experience out there with the 1997 Chevy 6.5L in a Motor Home. I am currently reviewing a Trek Safari with 19000 miles, and would appreciate anyone who knows of someone who has owned such, has information regarding experiences that could assist in my decision to purchase this vehicle, and upgrade it. The square structure is definitely a "lead sail" when it comes to pushing thru the air.It is the wind resistance, and potential heat build up which I wonder about. Appreciate any input ASAP

[MTTwister]

dene... You will probably get more hits if you post in the 6.5 forum, and maybe the towing / 5th wheel forum. Also, you're probably into it, but the search feature should turn up some discussion. one was a guy across the pond ( east) with a 6.5 motor home.

[dene57k]

I am looking for some insights from anyone with RV experience with the 6.5L, particularly the Trek Safari( nice square building on wheels)..a real wind pusher.
The unit I am reviewing( as a novice) has 19000 miles, and the owner recently installed a Banks exhaust system 4" down pipe , air scoup, and air cleaner.
The GVWR is listed at 14,800 and the GCWR at 19000 lbs for this front engine with 26' of coach.
If anyone out there has any experience with these units I would really appreciate your advice. I hear there are some developments on the horizon for these RV's, and the issue becomes cost effectiveness of the application. I have an immediate decision to buy or pass on this unit ..so thoughts appreciated ASAP

[dene57k]

You mentioned a guy with a Motor Home. Where Do I find him, and you mentioned " across the pond east"..as a location. I did not connect on that, and guess I have not found the search engine your referred to...cheers...KD

[MTTwister]

Dene - I did a serach on motor homes and came up empty. I know there was a guy from the Netherlands that had a 6.5 in a motorhome. Some cooling problems associated with it being a rear mount, and a "pusher" I believe, so air flow wasn't ideal.

Maybe try RV.com and see if there's any info over there, and check back frequently for real info.

Sorry 'bout that.

[PatW]

I own a 1999 Trek.

Heat is the major issue with these units in my opinion. both in the units cooling system and how the unit was driven (if a heavy pedal is not increasing speed then get your foot off it). Also the year of the model makes a differance, I beleive late 99 had the cooling improvements.
The 4" exhust tells me the previos owner was looking to improve performance and or exhust gas temp- thats a plus.

Groups.msn.com\TREKTracks is a great place to research everything you want to know about Treks.

Penisular Diesel is finishing my engine replacement as I type. Spun bearing in prev engine. They are a great source of info on these units also.



PatW 1999 safari trek peninsular

[Cowracer]

These were two separate posts on the same subject by the same author.

Tim

[Trek 6.5 TD Pusher]

I own a 30' 97 Safari Trek 6.5 TD Pusher on a 95 Spartan Chassis. Just replaced the engine at 24,000 miles with a 2001 AMG block rebuild with 18:1 pistons, a new injection pump, a GM4 Turbo and the 97 cooling upgrades. I moved the transmission cooler to the front and added 2 axillary oil coolers, a Heath max e torque chip, turbo master boost controller and an inter cooler . The engine temp is now under control. Moving the transmission cooler to the front and out of the front of the radiator probably made the biggest difference in the water temp. I still need some additional oil cooling. The rig is now much more drivable. Before these upgrades it was a PITA to drive. You still have to drive with one eye on the EGT gage to avoid melting the thing down. Be prepared to make some upgrades. The pros recommend 10 HP per foot or 1 HP for every 70 lbs of gross vehicle weight. The 6.5 come up short of either unless it is upgraded significantly. This means it is worked hard all of the time and under stress continuously. If you drive it hard the longevity is in question.

Ken Finchum

[BillCarry]

PatW

I posted a reply but it went as a new post - my mistake.

Bill Carry

[PatW]

Ask the prev owner how he drove the Trek. Did he do a lot of driving in the mountains? Did he tow a vehical. The engine my not have been taxed to hard as of yet but it will be if you plan on driving it much.

I really like the Trek motorhomes, and if you are getting a good deal on one it is worth spending some money on upgrages.

Griffen in Sc is making a new radiator for the Trek with 1.8" inlet ( you have 1.4) . You have less than 200sq in of opening in the grill, a second grill can be cut into the bumber ( as was done by factory on gassers ) that provides an additioal 140sq in.

Add an oil cooler, egt gauge,and trans temp gauge.
changing stock exhaust would also have been a recomendation, but I understand previos owner has already done.

PatW

[dene57k]

thanks for the imput on the Trek RV, Ken , Pat . I would like to talk to you personally if possible on the modifications you have engaged, and what results are evident. Jim has indicated that upgrades will come in at about $13-14K to get maximum results. I am curious as to what happened to your engine Ken on the Pusher Trek. The unit I am looking at is a front engine with a total length of 27".
Not knowing what the pros know on the issue of weight to horsepower, I would be interested in what you guys have found by experience and would advise. It appears that wind resistance in this Trek design is a real issue to contend with. thanks again

Sure appreciate the imput guys...

[BillCarry]

I purchased, new, ordered by me, a 1994 Georgie Boy Swinger, 30' motor home with the 6.5 T, Electronic IP. I think it was very nearly the first one made and I'm sure the first one produced by Gerogie Boy. It now has about 135000 miles on it. The motor home weights about 14500 lb. fully loaded.

I had the usual injector pump problems. The pump was replaced by a "green Tag" pump at 16000 miles and again at about 76000 under the GM warranty/policy adjustment campaign. No problems wiith the IP since then.

The FSD was replaced at 38000. At 131000 I was getting nervous and purchased a new FSD and a remote cooler from John Kennedy. I installed this inside the motor home.

At about 90000 miles I had cylinder head cracking. Changed them both - but I think only one was really leaking. I did not pay attention to all the folks on the DP warning about coolant pump capacity to my own peril. After getting the new heads I installed the 130 GPM pump, etc.

At the same time I discovered that my radiator was plugged up with cotton wood tree cotton. Have a bunch in the neighborhood. The stuff passes through the A/C condenser and lodges in the radiator. Now clean this out once a year.

I replaced the glow plugs and injectors at about 75000 and the harmonic balancer and pully at about 105000 as precautionary measures.

The engine uses about one quart of oil every 1800 miles or so and has since the beginning. I have been careful about changing the oil and filter every 2500-2800 miles. I have used Rotella exclusively.

I'm happy with the performance. I owned three gas powered motorhomes prior to this one (two Dodge 440's and one Chevy 454) all of which were slightly smaller. I don't find any significant loss of acceleraton or hill cllimbing capability.

I installed a boost gage and an EGT gage (before the turbo) very early on and do watch the EGT on long climbs etc.

I have checked fuel consumption on four trips to Florida from Michigan and consistently get 11.5-12 mpg, including a month of local driving around Florida. The gas motor homes consistently gave about 7-7.5 mpg for the same trips. I do drive about 60-63 mph on interstates.

I plan on keeping this thing for a long time.

Bill Carry

[BillCarry]

I did not mention that my unit is a Chevy P-32 front engine, not a Spartan pusher.

Bill Carry

[dene57k]

thanks Bill for the imput on your experience with the 6.5L. It appears that your 30' unit is lighter than this Trek Safari 25..that is really 27 ft.
It does appear that heeding the warning of the Diesel Page gang is good medicine. I just spoke with a diesel specialist in Vasalia, Ca, and Matt at Peninsular who have a grip on what has to be done to make these units run..not limp or walk. I believe the evidence is clear, trouble is ahead, even given care that the 6.5L must have the upgrades to function sufficiently to make life enjoyable therein..Thanks for sharing your experience...and costly education! cheer..kd

[Trek 6.5 TD Pusher]

My e-mail is finchumnm@hotmail.com if you want to contact me directly. I will be glad to provide you with any information on my upgrades.

Ken Finchum

[DIRTYBIRD]

I have a 93 Safari KALAHARI on a Spartan chassis and much experience with overheating. I would enjoy a conversation with KEN FINCHUM or others with these coaches. Russ Warren "DIRTYBIRD", wrussell6_@msn.com.

[rustyk]

I have one of a very small number built of the '94 Barth 28' Breakaway 6.5L TD (DB-2 mechanical pump) diesel pusher, Spartan chassis, 4L80E transmission, Dana 80 diffy. ('93s and older used the Cummins 5.9L 160-230HP). Placard GVW is 16,000# (Actual capacity is 18,000#). GCVW is 19,500#. Current weight (loaded, ready to travel) is 15,500#.

Since I bought it in January, I've put about 8,000 miles on it, at about 9.5-10 mpg.

In June, the Mag-Hytec trans pan and diffy cover went on. This model has a very large crossflow radiator with 2-1/4" inlet/outlet. In 106F weather in the midwest, the Mag-HyTec mod to the tranny showed a noticeable (~20F) lowering of temp. On long grades at over 100F ambient temp, tranny never got above 220F and rarely even hit 210F. This RV does not have an external transmission cooler, and the A/C condenser is mounted on the side of the coach with its own fan. Engine temps rarely exceeded 210F (195F thermostat).

While the Kennedy Diesel cooling upgrade kit was mostly a breeze to install, I had to mod the Kennedy bracket to fit the throttle and cruise control cables to the original location. This took about 10 install-measure-remove-hack cycles, but it was tedious, not difficult. It took some research to find the correct lower radiator hose, but NAPA had an exact-fit.

Bench tresting showed the tensioner to be quite busy. I noticed that the belt would rotate back and forth into the mechanical stops - not good, so it got a new crankshaft pulley/damper, and the tensioner s quite relaxed. I just finished road-testing it with the cooling kit completed, and the effectiveness is quite noticeable (the temp gauge barely twitched on a grade), although the ambient temp was only around 94F - so it hasn't been stress-tested yet.

I consider all three upgrades to be well worth the trouble.

I'm not very familiar with the Treks (although when it boiled down, I was looking at a '97 28' Trek and the Barth; I prefer a pusher due to easier access to the engine, quietness when running, and the fixed bed in the Barth vs the Magic [drop-down] Bed in the Trek).