Randee of the Redwoods
01-04-2006, 13:51
Patrick m.-I ended up at that junction block under the plastic cover. I've always known it was there, but just last night figured out how it interfaced with the rest of the truck. But, can that block itself go bad?
So, I pulled the starter for convenience and to replace the main starter lead(geez that thing is heavy). I found that the small 10awg lead from the right battery goes under the motor to the starter then back UP to the junction block on the passenger's firewall. That answered that question of where it went. So, I replaced it with a piece of 8awg preterminated cable I had in the garage. I also replaced the main starter lead with a piece of 1awg I had in the garage(yes, I have a lot of crap in my garage). I ran the new junction block lead up hight along the fender with the radiator overflow hose to keep it away from the hot motor and for convience. The new huge starter cable was run normal but left slack so as to give me a lot of freedom at the battery. I simplified some ghetto connections I had made and put anti seize on all the bolts I pulled out.
The aftermath. Wow. No problems rolling over that starter now. I guess I can credit that to the new huge cable. Before, especially in the cold, it would start like the batteries were almost dead. This morning, after the glow cycle, I hit the key and the starter easily did it's job. It easily has to spin up like the starter on my Mustang. Nice.
Next observnace was after a drive today. Before, when the motor was nice and hot and the alternator was nice and hot, the voltmeter would dip about 2 ticks to the left of 14 on the readout. Today, it would not dip one full tick, even with the parking lights on, the blower on high, and my foot on the brakes. Intersting. I'm initially owing that change to the new, heavier gauge junction block lead. The volts needle still responds when things happen, but it responds less dramatically. Interesting.
Hint for you guys like me wondering about gauge needle movement, replace that junction block lead and look for a difference.
I can't say if my problem is fixed until it happens or does not happen again. I was able to trace most of the output leads from the junction block. A fat red lead is for the glow relay. A smaller red lead goes down into the computer's harness. But one of those leads I know feeds the fuse panel under the dash. So for now, I've deduced that if I have a problem again, it's either a bad battery or in the aforementioned lead.
And another thing. I love, in a way, working on this truck. It's so nice to just unbolt the inner fender and have access to the entire right side of the motor.
[ 01-06-2006, 11:22 AM: Message edited by: Randee of the Redwoods ]
So, I pulled the starter for convenience and to replace the main starter lead(geez that thing is heavy). I found that the small 10awg lead from the right battery goes under the motor to the starter then back UP to the junction block on the passenger's firewall. That answered that question of where it went. So, I replaced it with a piece of 8awg preterminated cable I had in the garage. I also replaced the main starter lead with a piece of 1awg I had in the garage(yes, I have a lot of crap in my garage). I ran the new junction block lead up hight along the fender with the radiator overflow hose to keep it away from the hot motor and for convience. The new huge starter cable was run normal but left slack so as to give me a lot of freedom at the battery. I simplified some ghetto connections I had made and put anti seize on all the bolts I pulled out.
The aftermath. Wow. No problems rolling over that starter now. I guess I can credit that to the new huge cable. Before, especially in the cold, it would start like the batteries were almost dead. This morning, after the glow cycle, I hit the key and the starter easily did it's job. It easily has to spin up like the starter on my Mustang. Nice.
Next observnace was after a drive today. Before, when the motor was nice and hot and the alternator was nice and hot, the voltmeter would dip about 2 ticks to the left of 14 on the readout. Today, it would not dip one full tick, even with the parking lights on, the blower on high, and my foot on the brakes. Intersting. I'm initially owing that change to the new, heavier gauge junction block lead. The volts needle still responds when things happen, but it responds less dramatically. Interesting.
Hint for you guys like me wondering about gauge needle movement, replace that junction block lead and look for a difference.
I can't say if my problem is fixed until it happens or does not happen again. I was able to trace most of the output leads from the junction block. A fat red lead is for the glow relay. A smaller red lead goes down into the computer's harness. But one of those leads I know feeds the fuse panel under the dash. So for now, I've deduced that if I have a problem again, it's either a bad battery or in the aforementioned lead.
And another thing. I love, in a way, working on this truck. It's so nice to just unbolt the inner fender and have access to the entire right side of the motor.
[ 01-06-2006, 11:22 AM: Message edited by: Randee of the Redwoods ]