First oil change on the LBZ

[Quack_Addict]

I performed the first oil change on my `06 LBZ on Saturday before leaving on a 200 mile each-way cruise to pick up my boat. Granted, this is my first brand new vehicle, so I don't know if this is normal...

1. I was unable to remove the drain plug by hand - I ended up having to give the wrench a couple taps with a dead blow hammer to get the plug loose.

2. The oil filter was ridiculously tight - the sides of the filter collapsed 1/2 way around the OD while trying to loosen it with my strap style wrench. Just about the time I was starting to think I was going to have to put a screwdriver through the filter (and/or cut the can off the filter with a die grinder and use a chisel on the filter flange), my wrench broke. I've been using this same wrench to change oil for at least 10 years, never a problem. I have an enormous pair of Channel-Lock type pliers that finally got the filter off.

3. The gasket on the production filter stayed glued to the oil filter flange - always looking for the gasket in the filter after the filter is removed definately paid off here. I had to peel the gasket off the flange with a pair of needle nose pliers and clean the filter flange with a razor blade and Scotchbrite pad.

All this with 4800 miles on the truck. Use to this point had been break-in driving (unloaded) and one 200-mile run pulling the boat up north in July. I shudder to think what could have happened if I would have left the job up to the guy in the pit at the oil change shop.

[More Power]

Good post! You were right to do the first service yourself. I bet just about everyone here could report some sort of PIA experience with even routine service performed by someone else. I know I could... :rolleyes:

Jim

[cowboywildbill]

I changed our oil and filter at 1200 miles. The plug was tight but a couple of good hand taps on the wrench did the trick. The filter was on pretty good also, but came off with a good long pull on the strap wrench. I find that the srongest place on some of these filters is right at the bottom. I have had to cut filters off before on other applications so I know what you are saying and what a pain that can be. At least on the LBZ it is easy to get to. I did notice that a couple of days after I had changed the oil, I had a little spot of oil on my garage floor. I got under the truck looking for the cause, and it was comming from the oil drain plug. I checked, and I had put the nylon washer back on plug and it was tightend pretty snug. I wiped off the pan area and re-tightened it a little more than it should need to be. So far I haven't seen any more spots. I might put a little teflon tape on it next time I drain it.
When I first got the truck, the rear was two quarts low on gear oil and the trans was 1 1/2 quarts low on ATF. You have to wonder why the dealer charges for the veh. prep.

[jevanb]

sounds like me @ 1k miles, took 1/2 hour and 3 different wrenches and a lot of cussing to get the filter off

[mark45678]

welcome.... there is a few more things you should do ASAP.... Change the rear end fluid , change your transfer case fluid and put a new spin on filter on your allison. Trust me you will not be sorry or think your wasting your time when you see the color of the fluids that come out ! there is a drail and fill pug on both the rear end and t case to make it easy.

[Dave]

I'll have to agree.

Drain plug I needed to hit the wrench with a dead blow.

Oil Filter I broke the first filter wrench. Then crushed the filter with the next to get it off.

However it was not much worse on the 06 duramax than it was on the 01 duramax or 05 duramax. I knew what to expect. Some idiot putting the filter on with way more torque than required.

[cowboywildbill]

When I changed the transfer case on my 02, I replaced the fluid with transynd instead of the Dexron III that came in it. I think it is a definite advantage to changing the engine oil at least by 1,500 miles and all the other fluids before 5,000 miles. And replacing everything with a good synthetic. Except for the engine until it has broken in and then go with synthetic after the break in period also. Also I noticed that it is easier to get to the transfer case fill and drain plugs on the 06. The cross member was real close the the 02's plugs. On the 06 it is spaced farther back.

[FBJR]

Just did mine at 1300 miles and couldn't believe how dirty the oil looked! Did the trans spin on too.

Filters were solid needed lots of pull to get off. Plug was firm but came off easy enough.

Don't tow yet and plan on doing it all including the Rear with a HD cover by 5K.

FB

[David Proske]

Both the drain plugs on my 03 and 06 were way too tight. I used a 3/4 drive breaker bar to get them off after breaking a old 3/8's drive rachet i had. I don't know how they get them that tight without stripping them at the factory.

The oil filter wrench I use is my dads that we have been using for 20 years or so without incident. I bent it up on my 03 to remove the factory filter. I bought a heavy duty strap wrench for the 06 since I knew what to expect. It took several long hard pulls to get it off.

When I over tighten a filter like that it leaks due to crushing the gasket. How do they do it at the factory? The guy putting them on must have arms like a telephone pole.

[DmaxMaverick]

I don't think it's a matter of too tight at the factory. Many reports (including my experience) has shown the gasket is stuck to the adapter when the filter is removed. That indicates to me the gaskets aren't lubed when installed. It wouldn't take much adhesion to make them that hard to remove.

I suspect the same thing with the drain plugs. That plus some paint on the outside will freeze them in.

[jbplock]

...That indicates to me the gaskets aren't lubed when installed. It wouldn't take much adhesion to make them that hard to remove...

I think DM nailed it http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/images/icons/icon14.gif...

A while back I switched from using oil on filter gaskets to Parker Super-O-Lube (http://www.manuf-rubber.com/superolube.htm), Silicone Grease (http://www.articleinsider.com/article/51086) works too (i.e. Permatex Dielectric Grease (http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/b_lubricants/specialty_lubricants/auto_Permatex_Dielectric_Tune-Up_Grease_1.htm)). Just a touch is all that's needed. I also remove the gasket-oring and lube both sides. Filters always come off easy with out a problem ... works well on other gaskets too - air filter, fuel filter, door gaskets, etc ...

:)

[FBJR]

Remember too when these are put together they are cold. Add a few hundred heat cycles and that can glue about anything solid.

I bet all the filters are spun on pretty fast too, maybe even by machine. That can cinch something down pretty tight without deforming it.

FB

[Barkbuster]

Ok so I`m about ready for my 1st oil change and have read many recommondations about synthetic motor oil but mines not yet run in enough to switch yet, unless it came with it. I`m almost at 1800 mi. now so what should I run when I change it? I will also change the tranny filter and rear end. thanks for any replies l8r bb

[Kennedy]

Did you perform this change on a hot engine? Cold filters can be a real pain to remove...

[Quack_Addict]

I would say the engine was luke warm, not hot. I have this thing about getting hot oil on my hands... ;)

[Kennedy]

I always run to full operating temp and get the filter as soon as I can stand to hold it. I don't generally use a wrench on my vehicles except for the first change...

[mb5451]

Is it just for the 1st fluid change, or should I not trust the Chevy's oil life and filter life computer indicators? What happens if you wait till the computer tells you to change the fluids?

[TOAD2]

try making a strapwrench from a old seatbelt and 1-ft length of pipe,the width of the belt gives it better grip and can be used in tight spots such as removing fuelfilters.

[colt49]

After we all get the factory first filter off for the break in oil change we must all cuss the ape who put it on wrong no lube of 300 lbx. tork...I bought the K&N oil filter HP3003 for the LBZ/06 it has the 1 inch nut on the bottom that fits so nice in a socket you can put on with correct torque. The K&n has the anti drain back feature in it which I like. The last thing I use is the safety wire on the 1 inch nut head after torqued on to keep it there if it does come loose from the low pressure HIGH VOLUME PUMP. Had an oil filter loosen up on my C-12 Cat and started using safety (keeper wires). In racing they mandate safety wires on lots of nuts etc. for keepers. The K&N HP3003 was 9 bucks at NAPA. The other pisser was the Allison filter for change out on break in. I went to dealer in Ft. Collins,Co. Markley Motors to get the little filter for the Allison since I was by it one day. The Parts guy got it and set it at the counter and said that will be $58 dollars! I said no it wont That's an insult to me!!! If you think I'm paying that much for that you are an idiot!! I walked out and drove over to NAPA and bought the little filter for $11 it just didn't have GM paint on it. Never go to that dealer if you are in this town they will rip you off for each and all items!!! I didn't get the LBZ there for reasons of there is always another charge that costs more there when you buy a vehicle and they make$2k more on these people who think it's a deal.

[colt49]

After we all get the factory first filter off for the break in oil change we must all cuss the ape who put it on wrong no lube of 300 lbx. tork...I bought the K&N oil filter HP3003 for the LBZ/06 it has the 1 inch nut on the bottom that fits so nice in a socket you can put on with correct torque. The K&n has the anti drain back feature in it which I like. The last thing I use is the safety wire on the 1 inch nut head after torqued on to keep it there if it does come loose from the low pressure HIGH VOLUME PUMP. Had an oil filter loosen up on my C-12 Cat and started using safety (keeper wires). In racing they mandate safety wires on lots of nuts etc. for keepers. The K&N HP3003 was 9 bucks at NAPA. The other pisser was the Allison filter for change out on break in. I went to dealer in Ft. Collins,Co. Markley Motors to get the little filter for the Allison since I was by it one day. The Parts guy got it and set it at the counter and said that will be $58 dollars! I said no it wont That's an insult to me!!! If you think I'm paying that much for that you are an idiot!! I walked out and drove over to NAPA and bought the little filter for $11 it just didn't have GM paint on it. Never go to that dealer if you are in this town they will rip you off for each and all items!!! I didn't get the LBZ there for reasons of there is always another charge that costs more there when you buy a vehicle and they make$2k more on these people who think it's a deal.

[JeepSJ]

if you want to safety-wire your filter and don't want to spend the $$ for the K&N, simply slide a hose clamp over the filter and tighten and viola...instant attachment for safety wire (and it is reusable!). We do that on our desert racer.