Boneyard 6.5 Or New

[DuramaxC20]

Since the Duramax swap would be costly and time consuming... I decided to go with 6.5 TD... Should I get one out of a wrecked truck and not knowing its past life and how well it was treated or should I go with a 6.5 from Goodwrench Replacement Engines and start fresh... Whats your opinions?

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

It really boils down to how much money you want to spend. Personally, if I needed a 6.5TD, I'd get it from ronniejoe (http://www.schoolcraftpowertrain.com/) (Click in colored text), but that's somewhat influenced by the fact I consider him one of my best friends. He is building 6.5's with the latest block with all the gee-whiz stuff, PLUS splayed mains.

You certainly couldn't go too far wrong with any number of our advertisers; Peninsular comes to mind. The Avants are probably doing good work too, they just haven't figured out that they need to hire someone to run their office, so it's just about impossible to contact them.

With the very good advertisers we have here on the Page, I guess a Goodwrench engine would be close to last on my list. Nothing wrong with them, but these other folks (RJ especially IMHO) are doing great work.

If it were me (I'm chronically broke) & the price was right, I might take a chance on the wrecking truck engine, especially if I could get a compression check done B4 purchase, AND ascertain whether there was any antifreeze in the oil. Keep in mind: The block cracking poll seemed to indicate that the 6.5's that cracked were worked hard, whether they were modified for more power or not; :( I doubt a wrecker wasn't worked hard.

Blessings!

[DuramaxC20]

Ronnie Joes engines look to be well built... How are the prices? I will also check into Avant and I've already checked Peninsular, they dont have their Vehicle Section up yet but I hear they are about 9k or so for one of their performance diesels... Thanks for the help so far!

[tommac95]

My favored options are those mentioned above plus the Powrbilt thru Kennedy; here's a composite post from JK:
Kennedy Diesel W3351 26 Road Loyal, WI 54446
Voice (715)255-9433 Fax (715)255-9499
E-mail: john@kennedydiesel.com
"I just picked one vendor who has the AM General longblock for $4450 plus freight. This also includes a 12mo/unlimited mile warranty. **I see 3 ways of doing it:
1) bare bones CHEAP, and dump it 2) New block reman 3) Splayed main reman
Since I do not do engines, I have hooked up with Powrbilt. They have a quality product, straight forward pricing, and the new blocks. This should prove to be the best direction for myself as I do not have the time to go through a lengthy "sales pitch" and these engines should speak for themselves..."
[I'd phone Kennedy, Ronnie-Joe, Peninsular , and AvantSalvage.]
*



I would avoid using a block or crank unless carefully magnafluxed, and suggest new heads. The firedeck needs reworked. These blocks, cranks, and heads are all fragile relative to the service they oft see.

[Robyn]

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeell now
I just cant resist the temptation to add my 2 cents worth.
If the budgit is well rounded I would look at a new unit from RJ or one of the other fine shops mentioned above.
Now if the budgit is like mine usually is I would scare up a 92-94 engine with 599 on the back and build it.
If you can get the complete engine insist on all the accessories and the serp drive too. This is a must to get everything from the Fan to the Flywheel including the starter. The early units had the AC pump on the passenger side making AC hookup a neat clean affair. Wiring is a snap too. just modify your exisiting harness to catch the AC pump and alternator. The IP will need a lead from what would have been the ignition lead.You will need to split your Power to the IP and run a line through the CCA switch on the right head and then to the Advance and fast idle. The other line goes directly to the Fuel shut off on the front top of the IP. You will need a DB2 IP for sure so a 92-93 engine will be the best all around. If you go 94 or later you will need to swap out the DS4 pump. Temp gauge sender will require the one from the original truck to be used.
you will need an electric fuel pump as the TD does not have a mechanical one. A parts store unit mounted at the tank will be fine.
I built a fine engine for my 94 Burb using its original 599 block along with a set of clear water heads and some new bearings, rings, injectors and a few other goodies.
I expect to get a good long run from this engine too.
If you can find one in the bone yard that you can hear run this is a good thing.
Otherwise I would insist they gaurantee the block and crank to be crack free. The heads are going to be junk if its got a buttload of miles on it anyway.
A set of the new IH heads or as I did a set of clear water after market units.

If you are going to run the dog poopy out if it towing a battleship a new unit from RJ with all the goodies may be a great option.
If it a grocery getter with a trip now and then to the mountains towing the ski boat I would build a used one up.
I spent under 2K to rebuild mine and am very happy with it.
OH one other thing. with the TD in an older truck the exhaust is going to need be creative to get it out of the engine bay. Not tough just some thinking is all.

Just my ramblings
Robyn

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

Ditto robyn - she has definitely been there, done that. "I just cant resist the temptation to add my 2 cents worth." It will be a dark day on the Page if you ever quit doing so.

"Ronnie Joes engines look to be well built... How are the prices?" Call & ask, I'm sure he'd be glad to talk with you.

Blessings!
(signature in previous post)

[rustyk]

I always take the approach: "Where do I want to work on this thing? In my driveway or on the shoulder of a road in 106F (been there, done that) 1,500 miles from home? (Okay, it was only 950 miles from home, and it cooled off to 99F by the time I was done)".

The chances of staying warm/cool/dry are a lot better with a reputable rebuild than with someone else's toss-away.

My experience has been that the cost is about the same for the junker vs. a quality overhaul; it's just that the junker takes your money at inopportune times at awkward places. YMMV of course. Only my 2 cents...

[Robyn]

When building up and engine one needs to use good parts and do ones homework.
To use "someone else's toss -away" without completely going through it is foolish. The toss away can however yield a very high quality engine once you are done with it.

My Old "Toss-away" was a real sad sack after it took the big poop.
I would stack my complete rebuild against any shops work and it will hold its head high.
I would certainly not recommend using a refugee from the bone pile without rebuilding it completely.
The cost to do it yourself is MANY $$$$$$$$ less overall and you know if you have issues why and also you know what went into the little beast.
Good luck
Robyn

[Bnave95]

Robyn
Could we ask how much you had in parts for your rebuild?
I'm sure a list would be alot to ask for.
Having a block already owned in good shape,what was needed to that block for new parts.
I'm sure I read about your rebuild and as a DIYS person this would have to be the lower scale of investement for a sound Eng.
You had a great right up in the 700R rebuild. http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=24728

[JeffsTowTruck]

With money as the #1 factor. Used is the way to go. But sometimes not. I just priced a used trans for the the mini van. They wanted 700 to 900.00 for ones around 90 to 100k miles. I BOUGHT a new GM reman with 50k warr. for 1400.00.
You have to compare the two and do what's best.

The IP on my truck now, is a 300.00 used one I got 4 /+ years ago. I did not have the 1800 everyone wanted for a reman. So at the time I did the 700.00 to fix my truck and could not do the 2400.00 ....(This was before I knew the black box was the actual problem.) The shop that did my work said "I lost my mine and some other NICE things " by going used. But I got my truck fixed and the used pump is still working just fine.

[Robyn]

The whole thing including machine shop work, hot tank ect was just about 2K
I could have cared less about it but I did keep a total.
I replaced some wiring, the coolant tank on the fender well and many hoses too. A water pump got a good used fan clutch as mine was leaking oil.
I replaced the block heater as mine was in poor shape. Oil cooler hose connectors, vacuum pump.
Glow plugs and injectors.
When you do the work yourself it saves a bunch

[Robyn]

There are times that I just take the easy route and let someone else do it.
But it seems that every time I do I wish I had not.
My big truck goes in for such stuff as clutches, tranny work and big stuff.
I just cant do it myself. I do all the brakes and stuff. The tires go to the shop.
Major engine work on the monster cat gets to the cat shop.
I cringed when the Sub went down but I garaged it and yanked the engine the same day it went away. took me 9 hours to get it out on the floor.
Too many bolts in hard to get to places that were rusted tight and had to be worried with.
I would do it again if need be but I would go sit in the corner and cry first.
Its a lot of work physically not mentally.
Im 54 now and being female its tough crawling over all the stuff in the engine bay and getting under on a creeper.
Its hell when you catch the boobs on something sharp.
HAAAAAAAAA I was hell on wheels when I was in my 20's

[NH2112]

The #1 problem for female mechanics!

[Robyn]

HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
Nice legs.
I am not suprised at the comment though.
Actually I think its more a factor of age than other things.
I never hesitated at all when I was in my 30's to rip into something. The 40's were a , well lets think about this a few minutes and then get going.
Now its, AWE Sh&^ do I really have to.
I used to love crawling into a project, now if its something that I dont need on monday for a driver I am still game to fool with it but if I have to have it for my driver I dont enjoy the project as much as I used too. I want to get in turn the key and watch the scenery go by.

keep the comments coming
Best to ya
Robyn

[NH2112]

Forget about fitting under the car, I wonder how she fits between the seat back and steering wheel! Can she even move her arms to turn the wheel? :p At least boobs are supposed to stick up and be in the way, my problem is my (not all THAT big) belly getting snagged on muffler clamps, the studs for the gas tank shields, and other things that hang below frame level LOL And my poor suspension is so worn out that frame level isn't all that high, anyway! Another reason to lose weight, I guess LOL

I still don't mind jumping right into something with both feet, but it seems like all my major problems happen during inclement weather or wintertime - and I don't have a shop to work in any more :( Around this time last year we had typical New England weather - wind, cold, rain and snow - and I was out in a dirt (mud, snow) driveway pulling my demolished 6.2l out and putting the 6.5l TD in, wrestling the 465 back in without benefit of a jack, modding the crossover tube so it would bolt up to the driver's side 6.2l exhaust manifold because the slave cylinder prevented me from using the 6.5l manifold, jerry-rigging the exhaust to go from the 3" downpipe to one of the 2.25" 6.2l pipes, etc. The engine crane I'd borrowed obviously wouldn't roll in the dirt so we had to push the truck forward or backward as needed. And did I mention that I'd blown the engine while hauling about 3000lb of broken chimney to the landfill so I had to unload it in a big pile next to the driveway in order for the jack to lift the truck high enough to work under? Oh, and I'd lost my job a few weeks before, too. But hey, at least my truck has an ass-kickin' engine in it now! It does burn a little too much oil, though, and blows bbbles....guess it's gonna come out again and get the going-over you described earlier, along with stud girdle, gear drive, balance & blueprint if I feel like taking it that far. Then I just need to find a rust-free 6.2l K30 crew to stick it in :)