Turbo Oil Drain

[RoverIIa]

I'm installing a Banks kit and a serpentine drive at the same time on my 6.2. The kit is used from a salvage yard, with a re-built turbo.

I had/have to modify the oil drain line to make it fit with the bracketry for the serpentine drive. Does anyone know the best place to drain this too? I'm thinking that it likely goes to the coverplate where my lift pump used to be, but I pulled the parts almost a year and a half ago, and can't seem to get this routing right.

Does Banks put a fitting in the oil pan?

Does the return line need to be this big? Could I get away with 3/8" Fuel Hard Line? I can make those easily.

I know there is a pressure supply / gravity drain problem. That is likely why the drain is so big.

I'd welcome any suggestions, or photos of your installations.

Thanks,

Nate

[JohnC]

Yes, it has to be that big. Turbos typically flow a LOT of oil at low pressure. The seals are set up for low pressure. Any restriction in the drain will translate into elevated pressures in the turbo center section and the oil will go into the intake and exhaust.

Ask me how I know this... :o

[DmaxMaverick]

You already have a cover plate for the mech. fuel pump, so drill/tap it to accept an NPT or bulkhead fitting to mate up to the line. The large size is required to allow gravity draining, so make sure your fitting is at least that size. Banks makes/sells an adapter that replaces the OEM mechanical lift pump plate (to be used with a mech. pump), but they are REALLY proud of it ($$).

[RoverIIa]

I suspected as much, but my issue is that the metal line from the turbo does not seem to go near the fuel pump plate. I guess I'm in hose land, but I don't like to use hose in places that I don't look at often. Perhaps I will try to weld up a pipe adapter and plate. If successful, I can become very proud of them $$ ;)

Thanks for the info.

-Nate

[diesel65]

When Banks first started marketing the turbo setup for the 6.2's, the instruction sheet specified that you drop the oil pan and weld a bung on the right side front corner, then Banks made the revision to use the fuel pump plate as a return.
Maybe you have the 1st generation turbo setup.

[JeepSJ]

I have a Banks oil drail setup - brand new, never installed. I got it from Banks when I started the swap. I have the hard line that bolts to the turbo and the plate that covers the lift pump. Not sure if it is for the early or late body style kits. I'll try to post up some pics tomorrow and if it looks like you can use it then make me an offer (I'll let it go cheap, as I'll never use it).

I also have the oil pressure feed line - about 4' long, braided steel.

Let me know if you are interested.

Mark

[RoverIIa]

The story continues...

Okay! A few hours with a dremel, a die grinder, some delicate welding, and quite a bit of cussing have produced results!

First I cut off the support bracket, then bolted the drain line to the turbo and the bracket to the AC bracket on the engine. A hammer re-aligned the bracket, and the welder made the alignment permanent.

Next, the turbo drain line was cut right above the point where it curves down above the manifold. That straight cut was notched to make a not quite 90 angle going slightly down. Total angle here? Maybe 105 degrees. I used the straight end of the piece cut off, so that the curve already in the tube (where the first cut was made) went up into the area where the fuel pump should go. Some more delicate welding, and this one was good.

Finally, I ground all of the chrome off of the old fuel pump block-off plate. Note: I was willing to sacrifice the 10 HP I lost with this CHROME ACCESSORY. Holding the plate up in position allowed me to draw a line around the tube, which gave a cut line for the final joint. After bolting this all on the engine for another time, I tacked it, and then welded it off the engine. A small drill started a hole, and a die grinder opened it up for max flow.

I was worried about flow restrictions from welding all of this tube. I can't be sure if I punched through anywhere. I clamped it vertical, and poured a quart of cold oil through it. I got almost the full quart through, in about 15 seconds, before the oil backed up in the tube. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

My alternate idea was to take a piece of 1/2" copper tube and bend it to make the shape, then braze it in place. I'm still trying to avoid hose if possible.

Alternate thought #2:

Does the oil have to flow through from top to bottom? It would be really easy to put the pressure inlet on the bottom, and pipe the overflow to the valve cover.

Thanks,

Nate

[DmaxMaverick]

Sound effort, but I don't like welded tubing, for 2 reasons. The weld, even if it didn't penetrate and restrict the ID, is notorious for stress cracking (read--leak). While I share your concerns for hose, I think it would be better than what you have--in the long haul. Hose is fine as long as it's properly secured.

Another option....
You now have a fine template to fab up a new line. For cheap, you can purchase some straight tubing (stainless, even) and spend a little time with a tubing bender to fab up a perfect replacement. If you are not adept with bending tubing, have a local hydraulic shop do it for you. Should be no more than about 15 minutes for a pro. If you have no other options, you can send me your original line, and I can fab one up for the cost of materials.

[JohnC]

Don't put the drain on top. You don't want the oil to collect in the center section. It has to flow out freely by gravity.

[RoverIIa]

I may do the tubing route yet, I have to think on this one a bit. I also have the same concerns about the welded tubing, cracks, restrictions, etc... The spooky contraption that I made is definately not as free-flowing as stock.

I think I might stand firm on the hose thing. I'm concerned about heat and melting more than cracks or leaks of other types. In order to return the oil to the pump cover plate, I have to make a turn within about 5/16" of the cross-over pipe flange. The temperature is probably helped by air blowing around the engine, but a hose burst down here could mean more fire than mess.

Does anyone know a good source for steel tubing? The best I can think of is maybe a shop that does custom AC/Refrigeration work?

JeepSJ, the right way to do this is probably to buy those parts off of you. Can you e-mail me? natersxj6@hotmail.com

-Nate

[DmaxMaverick]

Can you take a pic of the "spooky contraption" and post it or send it to me? I can offer some advice on which is best to do, as far as fabbing and material. Any ag shop or machine shop should be able to help you if you want to pay someone to fab up a line. All they need is your "contraption" to replicate it.

[RoverIIa]

It will be a few days before I can get back out to the shop, but I'll post a pic at some point. The only reason I'm agonizing over this now is that the motor is out of the truck, and I know there will never be another opportunity for access like this.

I might run it down to the Cat Hydraulic shop and see if they can throw some scrap tube my way. I'm not really concerned about cost, I just don't want to have to buy a 10' tube to make a 14" line.

Thanks for the input.

-Nate