Experiences with POR 15?

[GoremanX]

I've been all over the web trying to find CONCRETE results for POR 15's effectiveness. All I can come up with are POR 15-sponsored tests, and some reviews that basically state "Wow, this stuff goes on well. Can't wait to see how it holds up!"... with no follow-up after that.

My '93 Suburban's body will be up on a rotisserie shortly. I'll be sandblasting the entire frame and the underside of the body until there isn't a spec of rust left anywhere. I need to decide what to paint the surfaces with! I want to prevent rust from forming anywhere on the frame or the underside for a long, long time to come. Everything I read says "use POR 15" or "use Rust Bullet" or "use the best epoxy primer and a good chassis polyurethane". Right now I'm leaning towards the POR 15.

So does anyone have any REAL, long-term experience with this stuff? Does it prevent rust for years and years and years? I've been doing Kenworth frames with epoxy primer/chassis polyurethane for years, so unless POR 15 is the miracle product the company claims it is, I'll likely fall back to that time-tested option.

Thanks,

[More Power]

In late 1998 & early 1999, I used POR-15 on the 6.5 Project's battery trays - after first stripping them, using a wire wheel and using a rust remover. The trays held up very well for the next six years and 200K miles.

You should be warned though about the tenacity of this stuff. Get it on your skin, and you'll need to wear it off. Once cured/dried, it is impervious to thinner, paint removers, acetone and so on (that's why I used it on the battery trays). Don't get it on anything or anywhere where you don't want it (i.e. floors, clothing, skin....).

I heartily recommend it for a supremely tough finish. :)

Jim

PS. There are to this day some drops of the stuff on my shop floor.

[tommac95]

I've never used POR , but i got as close as buying some twice.
Its' strength is that it does not require good surface preparation to function; it works remarkably well for a year or few.

It doesn't work nearly as well as a good commercial protective coating in demanding conditions. If you have the time/money/equipment to sandblast, use coal tar epoxy {decent price, proven for long periods on auto frames in salty environments; used successfully in electroplating baths!!} or one of the other options you've mentioned.

Gritblasting is the preferred prep for protective coating of steel ... the coating should be applied soon after the blast. Salt in the grit will contaminate the metal surface.

finishing.com is relevant site

[vaceros]

saw a documented test by an enthusiast who decided that eastwood brand works better than por-15. maybe if you worked in an air-conditioned shop with low humidity the por would work fine.

[GMC]

I was trying to decide between POR-15 and Eastwood Rust Encapsulator for the frame on my 1972 LWB Chevrolet that I'm restoring. I went with the Rust Encapsulator because of the easy application. I have seen plenty of POR-15 on other people's projects and it's definately a nice product.

[JeepSJ]

There are lots of Jeep guys that swear by POR-15. Just follow the directions and use their Metal Ready surface prep. I used it on the skidplate for the gas tank on my CJ - I have not been able to get it to chip or peel, even with dragging it over rocks. The stuff is tough.

[Craig M]

I used POR-15 on the engine compartment of a Suburban. Followed their instrtuctions. Within a year rust started to show through.

[GoremanX]

saw a documented test by an enthusiast who decided that eastwood brand works better than por-15. maybe if you worked in an air-conditioned shop with low humidity the por would work fine.

I remember reading such an article a few years back. The guy was happier with the Eastwood stuff. But I can't find the article anymore, and I've seen no other unbiased comparative reviews. Even the manufacturers' own test results can't be compared... they all use different parameters and testing methods. This is becoming aggravating.

So far I'm leaning towards the coal-tar epoxy primer; I'm familiar with it, used it countless times on big truck frames that do 300,000+ miles a year, and it's cheaper. It's also the same stuff they use on the bottom of big boats that stay in salt water for years. And I'll be sandblasting the frame and underside of the truck anyways. I've never been a big believer of applying stuff over existing rust.

The rotisserie is almost finished! I'm just waiting on the casters, and then I'll be mounting the Suburban's body to it.

[trbankii]

Auto Restorer Magazine did the article in November 2003 - Eastwood has a copy of it on their site: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=852&itemType=CATEGORY&code=1CJBAN8

[Arlie]

So far I'm leaning towards the coal-tar epoxy primer; I'm familiar with it, used it countless times on big truck frames that do 300,000+ miles a year, and it's cheaper. It's also the same stuff they use on the bottom of big boats that stay in salt water for years. And I'll be sandblasting the frame and underside of the truck anyways. I've never been a big believer of applying stuff over existing rust.

I think your reasoning is sound. I have some experience with POR type products (not actural POR 15). They help if you have to paint over rust. If you don't have to paint over rust don't! If you don't have to paint over rust don't use a POR product. Go with what you know.

Just my 2 cents.
Arlie