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Ironoxide
12-02-2006, 07:29
I'm new to diesels ,and pulling campers for that matter!- I just purchased an 06' Sierra 2500HD D/A ext. cab, so please bear with me. I ran a search and really didn't find an answer to my questions, so here goes. I would like to pull my camper (8500lbs.GVW - 1500lbs. tongue weight) after loading my Harley Ultra in the bed (900lbs.). All thing's considered, I'm at ( or just above) the GVW of 9200lbs. I weighed my truck full of gas and it came in at 6600lbs. Also, it should be noted that I added Firestone airbags to the rear suspension. If I weigh out at say 9450lbs.:eek: , am I in any danger of causing vehicle damage? Is safety an issue at this weight?

On a seperate note, I see that the 3500 single rear wheel vehicle is rated at 9900lbs. What is the difference in vehicles? Can I modify my 2500HD meet the higher weight capacity?

Thanks in advance for the help,

DmaxMaverick
12-02-2006, 11:40
Welcome to the Forums!

As far as upgrading your 2500HD to 3500 SRW Capacity, you already have. The airbags put the axle capacity past that. The difference is the springs. The axle is rated by AAM up to 10,500#, and is the same as the 3500 DRW axle, and the brakes are the same, too. The problem now is you are limited by the tires. I can not recommend anyone load beyond the manufacturer's weight rating, but if you do, upgrade your tires. The OEM's are 245/75/16E, rated for 3042# each. The 3500 SRW comes with 265/75/16E, rated at 3415# each. Much safer with a more broad capacity margin (not to mention they fill the wheel wells so much better). If you haven't thought of it yet, consider upgrading your shocks to Bilsteins. Night and day difference, especially when real heavy. The OEM shocks are junk, for lack of a better term.

Ironoxide
12-03-2006, 19:34
Welcome to the Forums!

As far as upgrading your 2500HD to 3500 SRW Capacity, you already have. The airbags put the axle capacity past that. The difference is the springs. The axle is rated by AAM up to 10,500#, and is the same as the 3500 DRW axle, and the brakes are the same, too. The problem now is you are limited by the tires. I can not recommend anyone load beyond the manufacturer's weight rating, but if you do, upgrade your tires. The OEM's are 245/75/16E, rated for 3042# each. The 3500 SRW comes with 265/75/16E, rated at 3415# each. Much safer with a more broad capacity margin (not to mention they fill the wheel wells so much better). If you haven't thought of it yet, consider upgrading your shocks to Bilsteins. Night and day difference, especially when real heavy. The OEM shocks are junk, for lack of a better term.

The 265's I'll buy right away! The Bilsteins will have to wait a bit... I'm out of "play around" money for now.

DmaxMaverick
12-03-2006, 19:50
The 265's I'll buy right away! The Bilsteins will have to wait a bit... I'm out of "play around" money for now.

Good plan. Safety first. You'd be amazed at how many rigs roll down the highway with underrated tires.

265's also come in C rating. Be absolutely sure you get E rated tires. E rated 265/75/16's will have a single rating of 3415# on the sidewall. Check them all yourself before you leave the tire shop.

Ironoxide
12-03-2006, 21:19
Good plan. Safety first. You'd be amazed at how many rigs roll down the highway with underrated tires.

265's also come in C rating. Be absolutely sure you get E rated tires. E rated 265/75/16's will have a single rating of 3415# on the sidewall. Check them all yourself before you leave the tire shop.

I didn't know that:eek: . I've got a lot to learn. I'm glad I found this site:) .

Thank's again

rustyk
12-03-2006, 22:24
Good plan. Safety first. You'd be amazed at how many rigs roll down the highway with underrated tires.

Off-topic alert! That's SO true - a friend of mine bought, three years ago, a $275,000 (cost at a steep discount) motorhome. The wheels and tires gave him less than a 500# payload with full fuel and water...he made the manufacturer replace the wheels and tires with ones appropriate to the coach.

Unfortunately, many motorhomes are sold this way, especially the cheaper ones. Then of course, many old pfartz of my age don't bother to check tire pressure, or they lower it to "improve the ride" :mad: . But that's another topic...:cool:

HowieE
12-06-2006, 17:45
When you installl the new tires do not inflate them as per the sticker on you door post. Chech the manufactures chart for the inflation rate based on the weight you will be hauling. It will most likely be about 60% of the sticker pressure. If you just inflate to the sticker you are often riding on a ball bearing and the control will reflect that.

Ironoxide
12-06-2006, 19:36
I'll remember it. Thanks!

cowboywildbill
12-08-2006, 04:25
We have a 3500 c/c dually 06. I just found out that our gooseneck LQ horse trailer has a pin weight of 4,000 lbs. The empty weight of the trailer is 12,600 lbs. It is 39' 9" long. I know that the recomended pin is 3500 lbs. for the truck. I have pulled this trailer about 1,000 miles with no issues with the truck. Do I need to upgrade the rear springs or add airbags ? I had no idea it was this heavy. The truck pulls it with no effort and doesn't bottom out, and truck sits level when hooked up. Any idea's. I have heard that some fifthwheels can have up to 4,500 pin weights. Why do they build stuff like this and tell you that it is made for a 1 ton truck to tow? I was told this trailer only weighed in at 10,500 and 2500 pin weight. I found out on the scales it ain't so.

DmaxMaverick
12-08-2006, 10:59
You need to hook it up and load it up to about the max you will when hauling, and get it on a scale. Weigh one axle at a time (actually, you roll onto the scale one axle at a time). You need to know how it is loading. If it is too heavy on the rear axle, you may be able to adjust it by moving the pin placement forward. On the other hand, you may not be close to the 4000# pin weight, and everything is just fine. Once you get a weight ticket, we will be more able to help you.

Airbags are a good idea, even if you are not loading heavy. Having that adjustable rear spring is very handy, and will improve handling. The beauty of it being able to adjust according to your actual loading.

cowboywildbill
12-11-2006, 06:09
A mechanic at a dealer "I won't name them for obvious reasons" told me that the truck really shouldn't have an issue with up to 800 even 1,000 lbs or so more pin weight. But that he couldn't recommend it due to legal issues. He said that it was physically capable of the additional loading as long as tire and axel limits weren't exceeded. But that DOT might have a field day if stopped. I'll let you know what my outcome is after I get it weighed. And an RV dealer said that some of the big slide in camper units can weigh up to 4,000 lbs. That is a lot of weight in the bed.

cowboywildbill
12-20-2006, 06:47
Well I put the gooseneck on the scale and it has a pin weight of 4150 lbs. I am still under the rear axel weight listed on the door. The truck sits level when hooked up.
I guess airbags are next. I am running stock tires. I can't move the pin any more forward. Any other suggestions ? Thanks

6.5 Detroit Diesel
12-20-2006, 23:13
Just a question also. My '93 2500 has the 8-bolt axle on it. My GVW is 8600. I was wondering, what can the axle take for weight? The tires I have on now are good for factory rated 3,250lbs each. I want to put a custom air bag system in. Just wondering how much weight the axle could safely take. Thanks