Help on price checking my repair bill!!!! ***URGENT***

[dragonriot]

I just got a call from my mechanic, who I sent my truck to in order to get a faster appointment from Diesel Injection Service and figure out what's wrong with my truck... He said there's a few things wrong with it, and I grabbed my ankles and waited for the "no lube" push that I was about to receive... I think he added some money for his profit, which I understand but it pisses me off since I used to work for the guy and left on good terms... =)

I don't recall exactly what he described, but I'll do my best... The WG Solenoid controls the Wastegate and the EGR Valve... Since it is inoperable, the turbo isn't working right, and is also not allowing the EGR valve to work. The injection pump threw a code for inconsistent current or something like that, which is causing poor mileage, black smoke, etc. The crankcase valve is bad, and that is allowing oil to go through to the cylinders and causing very much consumption... (5qts low at 3500miles) Because the EGR valve is stuck open, the intake is plugged with carbon, and it needs to be cleaned...

Feel free to call B.S. on my mechanic or the shop in your replies... I don't want to get the shaft on this...

Anyway, here's the list of things that need replacing or cleaning...


Waste Gate Solenoid
EGR Valve
Intake Cleaning
Injection Pump
Crankcase Valve


Including labor, I was quoted $2200 for the job... is this a good price? I still have a $4100 loan out on the truck, and I know it will hold it's value because it's a diesel... it has 165,000 or so miles on it, and I plan to keep it until it falls apart, which should be a long time considering there isn't a spot of rust on the body anywhere and it's a 94 K5 Yukon.

[DmaxMaverick]

I would have to see the detailed bill from the shop, but it looks to me like he is competing with the dealership, and likely higher. All of those repairs can be done easily and cheap if you are capable of changing a light bulb (with a little help from TDP as necessary).

If you have one problem that led you to the shop, I think I have a problem with the diagnosis. More details needed. Although much on your list are common wear items, consistent with your mileage/age, and could need replacing anyway. I suggest you stand back and take a look at all the problems you've been having, and we can analyze them one by one. Also, all those parts can be had at MUCH less than retail, which could be the reason for such a high bill. And.....Because it is a '94, you don't need a scan tool to be friendly with the PCM. For far less money, you can convert your engine to a non-EGR. Normally, I don't recommend this for legal reasons, but at high mileage and age (like yours), they don't work as planned, and generally make emmission outputs worse than w/o. New found power and/or economy will be a result, which is EPA friendly, too.

[Warren96]

You could definately do the work cheaper yourself,but do you have the time and another car to drive while you do the repairs? For example,other than maintenance (tires batteries oil and filters),I havent spent $2200 on my truck since it was new! But I do all the repairs and maintenance,and buy any new parts very carefully. You could start by reading the codes,they will help guide you to what is wrong.If you dont know how just ask!Your Yukon is a lot like mine. Lastly, since you know the guy, ask him if the repair could be done without changing the pump tell him money is tight since its the holidays...bla bla bla you get the idea. Good luck,get back to us and keep us informed.

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

The real difficulty I see is that virtually all of us on the Page do our own repairs. So, advising what to do with a shop estimate is foreign territory. We all pretty much know how we'd proceed, but that's based on the above, plus the ability to fit it into the variables of whether its the daily driver or not, etc., & the fact that the ultimate solution to our problem(s) might take awhile, but that's OK.

A shop of necessity works on an almost completely opposite set of parameters. They have to complete the work quickly, so they sometimes have to make bigger guesses as to what might cause the symptom(s). Plus, they almost have to change out anything that doesn't look close-to-perfect, because if it fails awhile after repairs are completed, you're gonna want to know why.

Plus, most shops really don't know much of anything about diesels. The only way to know for sure is having long-term business relationship with the shop.

I/we could walk you right through all your problem(s), but it's not the same thing as dealing with a shop estimate.

On the other hand, a clear & detailed repair estimate would help us to help you. Anything less than a clear repair vs symptom breakdown makes this type of help request much more difficult.

Good Luck & Blessings!

[dragonriot]

Thanks for the advice guys... because I'm still learning, I decided to let them do the injection pump, intake cleaning since they'll have the intake off anyway and WG solenoid because if that's not replaced, they won't be able to see if everything else is working right... They are eliminating the EGR system with the use of HD Gaskets, and I'll replace the crankcase valve myself later...

I did ask them about getting a Marine DB2 250-300hp IP since it was the same price as a new DS-4, and they said they couldn't do that because it's a fly-by-wire system, and there would be nothing to control the mechanical injection pump.... Even if they are wrong (which I'm sure they are) I needed my truck done today, and seriously right now don't have enough time to even do my own oil changes...

Anyway... I'm going to school them on performance upgrades, and perhaps they'll knock a bit off my bill for showing them something cool... but probably not... heh

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

"...a Marine DB2 250-300hp IP since it was the same price as a new DS-4, and they said they couldn't do that because it's a fly-by-wire system, and there would be nothing to control the mechanical injection pump.... Even if they are wrong (which I'm sure they are)..." If this is a 6.5L turbo diesel, they are likely correct. You list your truck as a 94 K5 Yukon. The only connection between your footfeed & the IP is through the PCM - there is no cable to run an IP. Your truck has an electronically-controlled IP.

You certainly can put a mechanical IP on this truck, but it would require fabricating a custom throttle pedal assy. - your tranny (4L80-E) needs the APPS signals so the PCM can run it, & a mechanical IP needs a cable that the fully-electronic pedal assy (which includes the pots that generate the APPS signals) doesn't have. To the best of my knowledge, GM never build a pedal assy. with both.

This was done by a few folks on the Page, but I think it's been awhile, so it's possible the forums were lost when the Page's server went nuts a couple years ago & lost all the 6.5L Turbo Diesel topics (& others). This is unfortunate, because you could try a search & maybe won't be able to find the information about what this would take to do, although in your case it appears to be a moot point.

Blessings!
(signature in previous post)

[DmaxMaverick]

A properly setup and operating DS4 has a greater ability than a DB2. A DB2 can be calibrated for higher maximum volume, but you will only be pouring fuel out the tailpipe (as well as skyrocketing EGT's) Switching to mechanical just removes stuff that can go wrong.

A LOT of other mods need to take place before you can use the maximum output of either pump. A conversion is very do-able, but very impractical for all but the die-hard.

[autocrosser]

I would do all the work except the IP first and then check on how it runs. If it's still blowing black smoke drop the Cat converter at the down pipe point, if it has one and try running it. If it's clogged you will also see soot across the screen at the input. Iv'e seen several and others have found them clogged causing the black smoke problem.