Update on my 94 6.2 MIL engine

[Robyn]

Well the sucker is all cleaned up now and looking good.
The lower end was a 5 alarm train wreck with all the rods, pistons and the crank going into the trash.
The block needs to get a bore to either .5 or .75mm over but everything else in there is spotless.
Even the cam bearings are fine.

This is a 599 6.2 made in 1994.

Well the machine shops around here dont have mainline bars to check the block for straightness.

HMMMMM
Dug out a fresh set of bearings and dropped a nice crank into freshly lubed bearings and torqued the mains down.

OOOOOOOH LA LA it spins sooooooooooooooo nice and has about .005" end play, SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET

Going to get the block magged and then bored and fit for the lovely set of pistons I scrounged off ebay.

Set of Sealed Power pistons with rings $175.00 and that was to my door!!

Going to go with the .75mm most likely.

Thinking maybe I will use the 92 6.5 IP and injectors I have on this build.
With the Banks turbo it ought to run good.

Going to drop the pump off at the shop and have it checked out tomorrow and then go from there.

.030 over 6.2 with the turbo should run really nice and make my old Burb HUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM right along.
Maybe the addition of an aftercooler and the 6.9/7.3 Ford wastegated turbo a little later to really liven the party up.

later troops

Robyn

[gmctd]

You should specify the absolute minimum depth to be cut with the boring bar, so as not to undercut the mains webbing any more than necessary - or talk to JK about a nice set of new mains caps, with appropriately angled outer bolts tied into the thicker pan-rails area.

IMO, of course.............

[Robyn]

I will chat with the machinist I use and will let him know my wishes.
Cost contraints are a factor here but I am planning on a stud girdle for this one.

The units DSG sells should be adequate for this engine.

This is not going to be a tow rig so I am not worried too much about ripping it up.
Just a little half ton with a BIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIG lift.

Thinking about maybe a late model 14 bolt 6 lug rear axle though, The little 10 bolt units are sooooooooooooooooooooooo small looking with them big tires under the rig.

If I go that route most likely will do a gear change too.
probably 4.10 and then swap the gearing in the front axle.
truck has 3.42's now and with 35 inch tires is no ball of fire off the line.

[mstockton]

If I go that route most likely will do a gear change too.
probably 4.10 and then swap the gearing in the front axle.
truck has 3.42's now and with 35 inch tires is no ball of fire off the line.

Haha, I just found out that I'm running 3.08's on 35's with my blazer, once the RPM's are up it scoots along alright though, but turning 1200 RPM in O/D at 60 on the highway is just barely doable. :cool:

-Martin

[Robyn]

Yup been there done that.
Mine is 3.42 and I have seen those with the 3.08's
High even with stock tires.

The 6.2 loves 3.73 or 4.10's Too little RPM seems to kill the MPG

4th in lockup at lower speeds is joke.

I am going to remove the control of the lockup from the ECM when I do the swap.
My new 700R4 thats ready to go in has the hydraulic controls as I built that box with an earlier valve body that still had the control valves for the TCC.
I am going to use a type 1 solenoid I think it is with one hot wire and bypass all the inside switches.

This will allow the 12V to be switched on or off especially around town or when doing hilly country where the TCC will hunt a lot.

The hydraulic controls work fine all by themselves except they lock up as soon as the tranny hits second gear.
The beauty of this setup is that one can use compression breaking all the way down to 25mph is second.
Having the electric control allows for a better all around setup.

Robyn