PMD revisited

[Robyn]

Well I got a PMD remote mount/cooler and extension cord yesterday in the mail.
Installed it on the Burb today and all is well, UMMMM almost.
Got two used PMD's from the pump shop.
First one I installed was a dud, engine started, reved way up blubbered a lot then reved up then died and would not restart.
OOOOOOK hooked the Sol D back up and boom run fine.
Hooked up the second used PMD and poof runs fine.

I will take the bad PMD back and get another used one to keep on the shelf.
I do believe I will before next winter buy a new Stanadyne unit and keep the one thats on it now for a spare.

Nice kit too, came with a 6 foot cable and the fiined cooler.

Took the sucker out and ran the crap out of it for an hour, seems fine.
WE SHALL SEE.

Sol D is still bolted up top right where its goona stay too.

[JohnC]

First one I installed was a dud, engine started, reved way up blubbered a lot then reved up then died and would not restart.

Folks, this is why you still need a shutoff solenoid, even on an electronic injection system! ;)

[gmctd]

Yep - it always amazes me when a tich fom an injection pump shop suggests gutting the ESO, as it is not required with the DS4\PMD system.

[gherrell]

Well I got a PMD remote mount/cooler and extension cord yesterday in the mail.
Installed it on the Burb today and all is well, UMMMM almost.
Got two used PMD's from the pump shop.
First one I installed was a dud, engine started, reved way up blubbered a lot then reved up then died and would not restart.
OOOOOOK hooked the Sol D back up and boom run fine.
Hooked up the second used PMD and poof runs fine.

I will take the bad PMD back and get another used one to keep on the shelf.
I do believe I will before next winter buy a new Stanadyne unit and keep the one thats on it now for a spare.

Nice kit too, came with a 6 foot cable and the fiined cooler.

Took the sucker out and ran the crap out of it for an hour, seems fine.
WE SHALL SEE.

Sol D is still bolted up top right where its goona stay too.

What kit did you use? I am in the market and am doing my "research" currently. Was this an Ebay item?

Thanks!

[gmctd]

Have you addressed the dreaded chromium oxide syndrome on those FSD modules, Robyn?

[Robyn]

GMCTD

Nope not at all.
The last cold snap we had was a real pain. If the rig sat over night in even 35F I would have to warm it to get it to talk in the morning.

The more research I do the more I am suspect of the Mosfet type transistor.
As the temp drops the more voltage it takes to excite the things into action.
If I jumped the batteries with the Big truck running at 14.5 line voltage off of 3 Giant commercial batteries there was no issue at all.
Its definately a voltage issue for sure.

Too much PITA.
Remarq is supposed to have a new unit that has a direct connection to the battery and they are using the original 12V line to run an internal switch that dumps a full 12V to the box.
BUTTTTTT I cant seem to get any calls back from them in about a month.
Not sure what the deal is.

Bet me that the Stanadyne engineers knew all too well what the Mosfets could and could not do in this application.

I am puzzled as to9 why the Sol D seems to be getting worse with the cold starts. I wonder if its a tendency over time and use for the Mosfet to require more voltage to excite them??


Robyn

[Robyn]

gherrell

Yes I bought a kit off ebay.
I emailed a couple of folks that had bought these particular ones and they were happy so I bought one. came with a 6 foot cable, wire ties, heat sink with fins 4 bolts with nuts and washers and some white heat sink paste too.
Took all of a half hour to do the install.
I mounted the little creature down on the inside of the front splash pan that pivots down under the radiator.

Good air circulation and protected from the elements too.

I could not get to the original PMD to see what resistor it had so I used a 5 and called it good. Burb is running sweet and strong. Starts fine cold and starts real fast even when hot and having sat for 1/2 hour, just tweek the key and its going.

The truck runs smoother with the Stanadyne unit as opposed to the Sol D

Sol D is still up, top just in case. Just wrapped the connector up and left it there. I just wish there was a permanent fix other than a DB2 conversion.

Robyn

[gmctd]

I haven't had my hands on a Sol-D to investigate any of that stuff.

I was referring to the FSD\PMD modules - loosen the driver transistor nuts, turn them down finger-tite, then 1/4 turn more with a nut-driver.

Scuffs the chromium oxide on the stainless cases, reestablishes electrical continuity.

Works fine, lasts a long time..............

To waterproof the low-mount assy, you'll need to run a bead of RTV around the module\heatsink interface, squeegee it in with your finger so you get a good 1/4" fillet, let it cure, and you're good to go.

If it's already been did - never mind...............

[twaddle]

Hi Robyn,
Have you checked the voltage to the Sol-d unit when the No start/cold weather problem occurs.
I am having the same problem during cold snaps. Sol-d have said (a while back) that the problem is low voltage (ie below the required 9 volts) but your theory is a good one as it sounds as though more than 9 volts is required during the colder weather.
I am going to rig up a test wire from the 12 volt wire to the Sol-D and try and establish what voltage is there when the problem occurs. The trouble is the weather here in Central Scotland is seldom as cold as you guys can get in the US or Canada.
I have also in the past warmed the Sol-d unit while doing absolutely nothing to the Batteries or electrical system and the engine fires up as nice as you like. So in my eyes it aint the below 9 volts fault, is it?

I have maintained that it was not a "low, below 9 volt" problem with this particular fault as stated by Sol-D. I have fitted new batteries and increased the gage and number of positive and ground cables so I know that the supply is generally good and Sol-D did know that their unit was going to be fitted to OLDER TRUCKS.

As I said in another post I would like to build a Suburban special with a non electronic fuel pump and a manual gearbox and NO COMPUTER or ELOCTRONICS.

Regards

Jim
Biggar, Scotland

[Robyn]

I have not checked the voltage at the unit as such but my truck has new batteries as well as brand new cables all the way too.
I even installed a starter relay to use direct battery voltage to run the solenoid on the starter so the ignition switch is not taking the full load. This definately will help the cause.

The Cold is an issue as can be proven time and again.
Remarq insists that the SOL D was tested to very cold temps during development and that there were no issues.

I think the testing may have been skewed to reveal the results they wanted to see.
Cant prove it, but too many folks are having cold start issues and the only thing we can get from Remarq is that our batteries or wiring are bad, HMMMMMMMMMMM

Sounds a bit fishy to me

If the Mosfet transistors were the ticket then why did Standyne not use them???

cant be that much more costly.

Again if the Mosfet was the answer Stanadyne could have switched the design around after the problems with the PMD first popped up.

I firmly believe GM and Stanadyne knew all well that the PMD and the DS4 IP was flawed badly before any trucks ever got into the hands of consumers.

This was IMHO a conscious decision to get the stuff out the door and "Let the field guys deal with it" (dealers)

Since I installed a late updated PMD on a cooler this weekend and got that hooked up the truck is running sweet.
Unfortunately our cold weather is gone now for the season.

The PMD will work fine even with much lower Voltage. I think the PMD will work at as little as 4.5V if memory serve me.


Temps were in the 60's yesterday and the likelyhood of any more cold this season is fast leaving us. We could see a frost or two in the morning up until late March early April but thats about it.

Last week we had 4 days with snow on the ground.

We shall wait and see.

[Robyn]

Jim
I agree thats why I bought the 91 Burb

It does have a small computer but its not allowed to do much so its not a big deal. The computer on this one runs the Lockup converter and the EGR and controls the cold advance. beyond that I dont think it does anything.

Going to eliminate (dummy) the egr and go to hydraulic controls on the lockup with a manual switch for the final word.

Building a fresh 6.2 Bored.75mm and installing a bank turbo
Fresh DB2 IP
Fresh 700R4 tranny with all the aftermarket updates and goodies $$$ can buy.
Going to be a sweet ride