Door hinge pin/bush replacement

[chickenhunterbob]

I replaced the hinge pins and bushings on the driver's door today, took a few pictures along the way.

The door was just starting to drag on the latch.

For tools I used:
a ball pein hammer,
an assortment of 1/4 drive extensions as a punch,
spring compression tool
big screwdriver
pair of channel lock pliers
socket large enough to push bushing into
rope to suspend the door from the garage door track

First I tied the door up using a rope, if you park just so, you can sort of eyeball where to put the ropes so it swings about 6 inches out out from the body once the pins are out. A tree would work fine, or a willing helper.

Then I removed the spring, the picture here shows the spring in the tool, but I actually gave up on this gadget to remove springs, it's musch easier to just pry it out with a big screwdriver.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a180/niranira/truck/PICT0443.jpg


Next hammer out the old pins. I beat them half way through, and placed a 1/4 bolt with a washer through the first hole to keep the door in the right place. Not hard to get out at all, leave the little retainer on and pop them out.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a180/niranira/truck/PICT0445.jpg

Remove the 1/4 inch bolt and carefully guide the door out from the body about 8 inches, pull the dust boot out of the cab to get extra length of wire, there's lots there. My ropes were just right.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a180/niranira/truck/PICT0447.jpg

I settled on the channel lock pliers as the best tool to remove the old bushings, just grab above and below and rotate through the hole.

The two new bushings are different sizes, make sure the large one is on the end with the head of the pin, i.e.: top of the upper hinge, and bottom of the lower. There is a wider neck on this end of the pins.

Channel lock also to press the new bushings in. I used a bolt and washer so as to not mar them, and a socket below to allow them to be pressed in full depth.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a180/niranira/truck/PICT0451.jpg


Next line the door back up on the hinges, persuade the pins in full depth, and put on the litle retainer, I used a socket to push them on. Compress the hinge with the hinge tool, and set it in place. I think this spring would be very dificult to deal with, with out the proper tool.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a180/niranira/truck/PICT0452.jpg

Last thing, off to the carwash to hose it all of and oil it up.

[Artworks]

I am starting to have the same problem with my drivers side door and was wondering what my problem was, now I know that I should replace the pin and bushings . Where did you get the spring compression tool ? T4I ( Thanks for the Information. )

[chickenhunterbob]

Hi there Artworks,

I got the spring tool at NAPA, you could probably get them just about any parts store. I have had it for a while now but think it cost less than 20 bucks.

Bob

[redbird2]

I have replaced several set of these over the years I stopped using the spring compressor I simple compress the spring in a vise then hold it compressed with couple HD tie straps. put in place with channel locks cut the tie straps done. make sure you keep fingers out of the way and your wear safety glasses, as for holding the door up if you have a engine lift they work very nice for this job.

[RoverIIa]

I think you should get points for most trusting use of a Garage Door Guide Rail.

Have you ever tried to pull an engine with one? :D

Seriously though, that was a great series of pictures. Thank-you.

-Nate

[HammerWerf]

Bob,
How did you remove the lower pin? I have running boards installed on my 99, and they may be in the way from seeing how to get the pin out.

It also sounds like on the upper pin you left the retainer alone, and drove the pin out right through it. I would imagine that it;s fairly thin material, and is more than willing to fail if presented with some force.

The drivers door has been saging for a couple of months, and it is getting harder to open the door from the inside.

HammerWerf

[trbankii]

Timely that this post should rise to the top today - my truck is about at that point as well... :)

[chickenhunterbob]

Bob,
How did you remove the lower pin? I have running boards installed on my 99, and they may be in the way from seeing how to get the pin out.

It also sounds like on the upper pin you left the retainer alone, and drove the pin out right through it. I would imagine that it;s fairly thin material, and is more than willing to fail if presented with some force.

The drivers door has been saging for a couple of months, and it is getting harder to open the door from the inside.

HammerWerf

This is most likely your problem then. An easy test to open the door a crack and lift up on the back, any play up and down would indicate a good chance that your bushings are worn.

They are about 10 bucks for a set of (1) pin and bushings. The come individually (1 pin, 2 bushings and a retainer) but I think they generally recommend to change both.

The pins come out without too much persuasion, I used 1/4 inch drive socket extensions as a drift, with the female end on the top of the top pin, and the bottom of the lower. Just leave the retainers on, and tap the pins through them. I just looked at mine, and even if I had running boards up to the rocker panels, I would still have room to use a short extension and tap the lower pin out, I think quite easily.

Also I noted a dyslexic sort of error on the original message, and can't seem to find any edit button.

The pins go in from the middle of the door, so the top is driven upwards, and the bottom down. Consequently the larger end of the pin, and the larger hole in the corresponding bushing, is on the bottom of the top hinge, and the top of the lower hinge.

But just put them in the way they came out. , I suspect the contour of the door would make it impossible to install them in any other way.

[78Chev]

I just replaced the hinge pins and bushings on my 95. With the spring compressor it's not too bad. My driver side door still pops when you close it from the full open position to the mid position. I can see the spring-loaded deal with the lobes on it popping as it moves over center. However the lobe didn't look that bad when I had it apart and the rotating collar it rides on looked ok too. Do I need to take it back off and file a bit on the lobe? Anyone else solved this problem? Thanks.
Randy

[chickenhunterbob]

I just replaced the hinge pins and bushings on my 95. With the spring compressor it's not too bad. My driver side door still pops when you close it from the full open position to the mid position. I can see the spring-loaded deal with the lobes on it popping as it moves over center. However the lobe didn't look that bad when I had it apart and the rotating collar it rides on looked ok too. Do I need to take it back off and file a bit on the lobe? Anyone else solved this problem? Thanks.
Randy

Maybe just try greasing it up?

There should be a slight pop, or ponk sort of sound when the door passes the point where the lobe of the bar under tension of the spring passes the pin with the collar.

The intention of it would seem to keep the door open in a slight breeze or parked on an incline.

Is yours excessive do you think?

[78Chev]

It is more excessive than on the passenger side and more so on any of my other outfits. I greased her up to no avail. Thanks.