rear axle swap

[oilburnertoo]

I've searched and found no answer to my question so here goes. I have a '95 2500 P/U with 14 bolt FF 3.73, G-80 w/350,000 miles. I am contemplating a rear disc brake conversion because the rear brakes suuucckkk. Pricing the parts it would take to convert it I ran across a wrecked 2005 2500 Suburban with the 14 bolt FF 3.73, G-80 w/28,000 miles, I can get the complete axle for about the cost of the conversion parts. Will this fit w/o relocating the spring pads and shock brackets, etc. would it be a bolt in swap?? I've heard the late models have rotor and e-brake problems so would I be better off to just buy the parts to convert mine?? Questions,questions, what would you do??? All opinions welcome, Thanks.

[oilburnertoo]

Nobody has done a swap such as this??

[HCB]

Well, the axle SHOULD bolt right up, but I have my doubts about the brakes being compatible. However, the following place is indicating that there's the '86 and later 14 bolt full floating rear axle and the 14 bolt semi-floating rear axle. Click on each and scroll way down and check out the 'Parts List' and 'Assembly Instructions' for each disk brake conversion, and see if that helps you any. You could also try contacting these guys as well:

http://www.tsmmfg.com/General_Motors_truck_rear_axles.htm

[More Power]

A 6.5 Suburban owner did this very conversion about a year ago (replaced his 10-1/2" free-floater with an 11-1/2" AAM from a fairly recent D/A truck). He discussed all the details in either the 6.5L Turbo Diesel forum or the 1982-2000 Drivetrain forum.

Jim

[oilburnertoo]

Thanks Jim I'll try searching again for that post, maybe I didn't use the right wording in my previous search.

[Petrella]

Hey Oilburner, i was the one that did this swap about a year ago in my 1994 Sub. I purchased a 11.5" diff with 3000 miles out of a 03 duramax for $900. Originally my sub had the 10.5 FF with the 13.5" brakes. Took me a day to install it, but it DOES NOT bolt up to your 95 truck. I had to remove the leaf spring saddles and weld them both an inch toward the housing. The shocks bolt right up, no bracket mod there. The drive shaft had to be shortened about an inch(cant remember exactly) and had to weld on a bigger yoke. The 11.5 axle uses a larger u-joint. Brake lines were not a problem they screwed right into the new diff, same with the parking brake cable, they clipped right into the holes on my sub. I had to add maybe 2 feet of cable from the new parking brake lines, to the line coming from the firewall(pedal) i used 5/16 cable u-clamps to join the parking brake lines. This is the biggest turndown of the whole project, i know you are doing this for the rear disc brakes, but they will not work properly unless you change out the master cylinder and the hydro booster. I ran my suburban for about 3 months with original brake system, and i had some scary times. brake pedal must be depressed about 3/4 down before the brakes grab, and god forbid you towed something heavy, even more scarier. I towed my boat up to the lake one weekend, and i had an emergency stop, and i was so grateful i never rearended the guy in front of me. the next day i quicky phoned up the dealer and ordered a new booster for disc brakes, and a new master cylinder that went with the 11.5 diff. i had to pay an extra $900 for those parts alone, but lemme tell you when i installed the right booster and master cylinder, the truck stopped on a dime and i got the real feel of the rear disc brakes. Alot of work and money, but the truck stopped a lot better. Now if your purchasing the axle out of the suburban, you will not need any driveshaft mods, yours will bolt right up. But the spring saddles will have to be cut off and moved inward one inch. i know cause the 1999-2006 body style 1500, 2500, and 3500, series trucks all have the leaf spring center bolts an inch wider than the older trucks. If that axle has the dual plunger in the calipers, you gotta change out your booster and master cylinder for the brakes to work properly. Hope that helps, ask if you got any more questions.

Anthony
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2006 GMC Sierra 4x4 CC SB LBZ/6 Speed
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I've searched and found no answer to my question so here goes. I have a '95 2500 P/U with 14 bolt FF 3.73, G-80 w/350,000 miles. I am contemplating a rear disc brake conversion because the rear brakes suuucckkk. Pricing the parts it would take to convert it I ran across a wrecked 2005 2500 Suburban with the 14 bolt FF 3.73, G-80 w/28,000 miles, I can get the complete axle for about the cost of the conversion parts. Will this fit w/o relocating the spring pads and shock brackets, etc. would it be a bolt in swap?? I've heard the late models have rotor and e-brake problems so would I be better off to just buy the parts to convert mine?? Questions,questions, what would you do??? All opinions welcome, Thanks.

[oilburnertoo]

Anthony,
That is the info I was looking for, from someone that has been there and done it. I think I will just gather the parts and convert my axle to disc brakes as there is really nothing wrong with it other than the brakes suck instead of stop and it has the larger piston wheel cylinders in it. Thanks for the info and if I change my mind I'll probably get in touch with you for more answers to my questions. Thanks, Oilburner

[Petrella]

yeah if your axle is good, it is a lot easier just to convert it to disc brakes, adleast you wouldnt have to change out the booster and master cylinder. I know there are companies on the internet that sell brake disc conversion kits for the 10.5 FF diff, you got to search for them. But this is the way to go. the only reason why i put the 11.5 diff in my truck was cause i broke the carrier housing. If it wasnt for that i would of just done a conversion

Anthony

[RGS1260]

I've swapped the aam1150 into my 1995 aswell . I will be installing a disc/disc proportioning valve. I've also converted to 04 brake system including master. Also deleted abs.