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View Full Version : Easy added cold air for LBZ



moss6
04-17-2007, 18:44
I replaced the air filter on the 06' LBZ today and went ahead and removed the filter assembly when doing the change so to check out the intake tubing for any dusting. (Normal proceedure for me since finding much silica when using a K&N years ago----that product never never again). What I found on the LBZ is that the inlets that lead to the filter box from under the fender well are square inch wise, well less than the inlet into the box itself. I folded down the bottom flange of the upper inlet, the one that is ducted to the rear of the fender well. Then I used a pair of snips and cut diagonally at each corner of the lower inlet (about 5/8" each) and folded each side in and back to the inside face. This increases the total inlet volumn by 7 to 8 square inches; I didn't measure but would guess its close to or over the capacity of the air box inlet. Observation is that GM did a good job of isolating the hot air from the engine compartment----just didn't provide enough inlet volumn.

More Power
04-19-2007, 11:38
There are a number of factors that the engineers considered when designing the air intake system. Things like intake noise, water ingress, serviceability, production costs, performance, and dirt capture are some of what goes into air intake design.

A wet air filter element will shut the system down (set codes, limp mode, etc.).

Jim

moss6
04-20-2007, 11:06
This simple mode affects none of the things you mention, it only utilizes some additional space in the factory flow path; guess you'd have to look at the LBZ setup to understand.

More Power
04-20-2007, 14:42
guess you'd have to look at the LBZ setup to understand.

Like this one?

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/500/2006-16c.jpg

moss6
04-20-2007, 15:57
Yeah, you got it; but you'll have to remove the air box to get the real picture. If you are so inclined and decide to remove it to see; which is real easy but one hint might help-------there are three attachment points on the box. After removing the clamp and disconnecting the air boot lift the box up and out of the rubber grommets on the inboard side of the box then slide the box inboard (the third attahment is a slider in a slot). Once removed you can see what I'm talking about; also note that the box is designed to redirect any water infiltration away from the filter so it can drain out the two one way ports in the bottom of the box. The use of the turbine blade and cup at the box entrance directs the water against the surrounding walls, and some very elemental physics tells us that the higher the velocity of the incoming particulate, the better the chance for it to be directed to the walls of the housing. Hope this helps!