Rering in Vehicle

[darkroad]

Hi Is it posible to get your engine high enough to remove the oil pan? I need to do a quick re-ring and piston swap in my 1990 v2500. Can I reuse my rings? They have about 10,000 miles on them. In an emergency situation I honed it heavly and had to throw it back together last year. The pistons were not in the best of shape. I have a really good set of used pistons that I am going to top off to lower the compression. I don't have time for a complete rebuild but need it to last at least a year. Can ARP studs be put in while the block is in the vehicle? I need this ready in about three weeks so I can't pull the motor and still have time to install the banks turbo kit and finish all the other things on my list before the trip.

Thanks for any help

Darkroad

[mstockton]

Everything I've been taught would tell me that you can't reuse rings that have already taken a seat, I don't know if you'd ever get good sealing. I've been taught to build things to a spec though, a good backyard mechanic might tell you otherwise.

-Martin

[JohnC]

If it was a C/K I'd say you're crazy for not pulling the engine. I'm certain you cannot put the heads on in the truck with studs. Not enough room. And, if you pull the engine you get all the cursing over in a few minutes, whereas if you try to do it in the frame you'll be cursing from start to finish.

But, you have a van. You could be crazy no matter how you go about it...

PS: Don't reuse the rings.

[Robyn]

On a 90 Burb you can do an inframe if its a 4X4

Jack the sucker up as high as you can and block the frame and let the front axle down with the wheels off and you should have plenty of room.

Use a bottle brush hone and dust the bores lightly.
Clean the bores with a clean rag soaked in solvent and then finish with brakkleen.
Oil the holes lightly with a clean rag soaked in engine oil just before you stuff the jugs in.

Use a new set of rings though. Too bloody much work to risk a bunch of blowby and or an oil sucker.

As far zas doing a stud kit in the rig, forget it.

If you have help you can crawl up into the engine bay and have your helper hand you the head.
Be sure the gasket is set on the dowels correctly and set the heads down and go after the bolts.

No problemo


Good luck

Robyn

[JohnC]

Oops, I confused "V" with "G". I thought burbs were C/K series, no?

All the more reason to pull it, not the PITA a van is...

;)

[DmaxMaverick]

Oops, I confused "V" with "G". I thought burbs were C/K series, no?

All the more reason to pull it, not the PITA a van is...

;)

GMT-400 (1988+) brought in a revised designation for trucks. Before, there was only C/K for trucks, which included any vehicle on a "truck" frame. There were some exceptions, so I won't try to make sense of that. The 1987.5 (actually 1988 M/Y)-1992 years were a huge gray area, as was the 1999-2001 GMT-400 to GMT-800 transition, and now the GMT-800 to GMT-900. The HD's, vans and SUV's has traditionally lagged in the tooling (body style) upgrades, and for a second time, "Classic" is a part of the badge (referring to truck body style, not just a model name).

[EWC]

Previous to the 88's , the C/K series was the box style trucks . When the new body style came out , the box style was now the R/V series up to and including 91 and the rounded style was now the C/K series . R - 2wd , V - 4wd . Kinda like the S-10 trucks , S - 2wd , T - 4wd .

[JohnC]

Well, now I'm really confused. My '76 Blazer was a K1500. My '95 C/K series manuals covered the Suburban...

[EWC]

Maybe an easier way to remember is that the newer body style has the IRS diff in the front for the 4wd and the older box style has the solid front axle . Hmmm , then again maybe not .

[DmaxMaverick]

Well, now I'm really confused. My '76 Blazer was a K1500. My '95 C/K series manuals covered the Suburban...
1976 should have been the C/K 5 (Blazer), 10, 20, 30 series. Like I said, there are exceptions, and I couldn't/can't make sense of some of them either. There was also a period (don't recall) when models ending in 0 were 2wd, and 5's were 4wd. Before C/K? But the K5's been around longer than that???

We all know, but what really is a Chevy II? Durango (before the Dodge)? Tahoe? Silverado used to be a trim level. So was Classic. What do the numbers mean? Last I checked, 1500# was 3/4 ton, 2500# was 1.25 tons, etc. Why did GM change from 1-2 digits to 4? Why did Dodge change from 3 digits to 4 (copied GM)? Make sense of it.......Marketing isn't sense.

[DmaxMaverick]

Oops! Way off topic. Sorry, Darkroad.