Calling anyone with body work experience

[jmpidgeo]

So, today I was going to start a little project - remove fender flares, sand down below the trim, and coat it with bedliner. Anyways, I started to remove the flares, and other than the screws around the bottom edge of the flare, it seems there are little tabs that go through the fender and attach with a nut on the inside. I can't seem to figure out where these nuts are...are they under the inner fender well or what?

Here is a picture of my truck to show the type of flares I am talking about.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/xj_man_646/DSC00932.jpg

Anyone have any insight on the subject of getting these flares off?

[DmaxMaverick]

They should be held on with 3M double sided tape. Nothing a little laquer thinner or acetone won't handle. They should go back on easily with the same method.

[diesel65]

From the factory the flares are bolted on, you need to remove the fender to get at the nuts. To be honest, I pulled a fender to change a flare but I didn't take notice if it could be done by just removing the fender liner.
On the Suburban you need to remove the interior side panels to remove the rear flares.

[jmpidgeo]

wow...pulled a fender? GAY.

3M tape or bolts...I don't know who to believe, haha.

[redbird2]

pull the fender to get to the bolts and most still have the 3-m tape also best of both worlds have fun

[jmpidgeo]

pull the fender to get to the bolts and most still have the 3-m tape also best of both worlds have fun
oh lord...that does not sound fun at all.

how about the rear ones? fender liner or what?

[sidehackbob]

Your truck looks great now!
I worked in a Chevy body shop in the early 90s. These flares will eat your hide to remove the set.
There is nothing to gain by spraying bed liner under the flares.

[jmpidgeo]

Your truck looks great now!
I worked in a Chevy body shop in the early 90s. These flares will eat your hide to remove the set.
There is nothing to gain by spraying bed liner under the flares.
well, i can see rust starting under the rear ones as it is, so i figured i'd remove them, and fix what rust is there before it spreads

[chickenhunterbob]

For the rear you remove the inner fender to get at the bolts, for the front remove the fender itself.

It may be futile however, so far as I know, nothing short of new sheet metal will stop rust, once it starts.

[Robyn]

Hello

Rust is nasty, especially if you live in salt country.

Remove the flares as has been described above.

Use copious quantities of warm soapy water to get rid of the salt.

Follow up by removing any and all loose rust and then treat with more soapy water and a rinse.

Now treat all the rusty areas with a product called "Rust Mort"

This stuff is great. It soaks into the rust itself and turns the rust into a Black Oxide that is paintable.

If there is any orange or untreated rust it will continue to spread if not treated.

The big issue is to treat the area once the rust is killed with a material that will not allow further penetration of the salt laden spray during the winter.



Hope this helps

Robyn

[ratman]

Good grief, you gotta pull the fenders to get those flares off? I thought these trucks were made by chevy, -not ford! Ok, rant over......

I'll second Robyn on the rust mort, -it is great stuff, -and really works. I resurrected a '73 chevy cab (and we all know there was lots of rust to deal with), and used that stuff in areas where it wasn't practical to cut and weld patch panels, it worked excellent. As extra proof that it works, I know where that truck is today, -and there isn't any sign of rust-related paint problems, -and it was done over ten years ago.

Another product that I used to seal up the treated/repaired spots was PPG "DP" epoxy primer. It ain't the cheapest stuff, but it adheres and seals very good. And because it is a catalyzed product, it is very durable. Not that it matters, but when using the PPG epoxy primer, no sealer is required for top-coating or base-coating, -it's that good.

The newer version of the stuff is called DP/LF. It isn't quite as good as the old stuff, but is still some of the best stuff you can buy.

My .02