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robscarab
05-20-2007, 14:05
Looking for a little advice please. I bought a 93 1ton dually with a broken crank and will be building a Hi Perf 6.5TD for it this Spring. For now I have purchased a used 93 6.5 TD that was supposed to be a running take-out from a wrecked 93 3/4 ton. I felt I could just drop it in for now while I built my bad boy torque monster.... I decided to tear into it after getting massive leak-down on 7 of 8 cylinders during a leak-down test! #4 was holding @ 40%. I pulled the heads and found large accumulations of carbon including many pieces stuck under valve seats etc. The injector paterns look terrible so obviously they were dribbling and not burning properly. The engine had been sitting since last Fall so perhaps the carbon was knocked loose when I tried the initial cranking compression test. (0psi in 6 of 8 with air blowing out of the intake ports mostly). I have good heads on my broken crank engine so I will just install them.

My question is regarding the piston/bore clearance. The bores are all measuring 4.057 to 4.058. I have measured 4 pistons so far and get 4.049 to 4.051. I do not have my turbo diesel page rebuild book yet so I would like an opinion on reringing this engine or does it need a rebore? There is a SLIGHT ridge in the bore that I can feel if I really concentrate. My measuring equipment is not accurate enough to measure the difference there. The bores are less than 1 thou out of round. (1/2 a thou at the most larger on the thrust areas).

The bottom end looks really good including the bearing surfaces and no detectable cracks anywhere. I am going to rebearing it and reseal it. (they came with the engine).

The block has K stamped on the op rails at every bore except for #7 wich has a J stamped there. The pistons have a K on the pin boss and a J on the J cylinder. I assume that these are slight under or oversize bores/pistons selected to fit nicely with their corresponding partner? There is also the #2 stamped ajacent to the main bearing webs. Precise bearing sizing?

I would rering this if it was a gas engine but obviously they have spent much more atten. to detail while assembling the Diesels.

If it is reringable than can I use a regular drill mounted hone or does it have to go the machine shop for this? Bottle brush type or spring loaded stone bar type?

This engine is only a temporary mill to get me going and test the rest of this truck for any maintenance so it wont have to be perfect. It will be buying me some time so I can read and learn about how to build the 6.5 that I really want under the hood of my dually. I was just going to drop it in based on the previous owners remarks that it was very powerful and ran perfectly...
It will serve as a parts/spare engine after I install my new one. It was claimed to only have 110,000 miles on it.

Last question: what type of rings should I buy and how much do they cost roughly?

If there is a thread or threads with this info, perhaps a link could be suggested? I have searched but not really getting too much on this so far..

Thank-you kindly

Rob

More Power
05-21-2007, 10:32
Unless you discover a problem with cyl finish, I'd just de-carbon the pistons and rings, and re-install them in the original hole. This being a temporary engine, and all....

As you discovered, the "J" & "K" stamps indicate the size of the bearings and pistons. This is a "select fit" engine - meaning GM pulled bearings and pistons off the shelf that best fit the journal/bore during assembly.

Jim

robscarab
05-21-2007, 13:04
Just out of curiousity,how much size difference is there between a new J or K bore ? How many different "select fit" bore sizes are there? Its nice to see GM was so meticulus in building these motors...

john8662
05-21-2007, 13:38
For now, mark your pistons to what bore they belong to.

The bore size isn't excessive, but is beyond STD bore for sure.

The stock bore size is 4.055"

.003" is quite a bit in reality, but for a used mill it'll work. At this level, you'll see a slight ring ridge at the top of the bore, but only on the upper portion, not the lower portion (these engines wear un-evenly). You'll feel it with your fingernail.

If the bottom end is crack-free, I'd HIGHLY recommend installing a DSG Stud-girdle kit on the bottom end to keep it that way, in case you need a crack-free block later on down the road...

J

arveetek
05-21-2007, 14:05
Unless you discover a problem with cyl finish, I'd just de-carbon the pistons and rings, and re-install them in the original hole. This being a temporary engine, and all....

As you discovered, the "J" & "K" stamps indicate the size of the bearings and pistons. This is a "select fit" engine - meaning GM pulled bearings and pistons off the shelf that best fit the journal/bore during assembly.

Jim

I second this bit of advice. The GM diesels rarely give any trouble on the lower end bearings and surfaces. I'd just pull a couple of caps and check to make sure the bearings aren't shot, and just assemble the short block as-is. The rings for these diesels aren't cheap (couple hundred bucks), so perhaps pulling the pistons, checking for any broken rings, cleaning, and then reassembling with current parts is what I'd do. Install new headgaskets and known good heads and put 'er back together. Save your dough for the real build.

I've rebuilt two GM diesels with high miles, and in both cases the bearings looked like new.

Casey