Shuck
05-27-2007, 18:40
As a fellow sucker for punishment, I just bought my 3rd 6.5TD. It's a 95 K2500 with 159k miles.
When I bought it, it had a service engine light and needed to be cranked 15+ seconds to start. It was also VERY noisy, which I suspected to be poor timing (probably due to whatever was causing the SES light) but it ran smoothly once started and has good power. The owner had also just replaced an oil cooler line because the serpentine belt broke and cut one of the oil lines.
I took the truck to a local diesel shop to have the timing checked and the codes read. The only code was a crankshaft position sensor code and the timing was way out of whack. They did a quick TDC learn and the engine quieted down a LOT to much more normal levels, but we decided to wait to do a proper timing adjustment since it was a lot of work just to get the truck started (starter was actually smoking). Once the code was cleared, the truck starts much faster, but still kind of stumbles through the start process.
I haven't replaced the crank position sensor yet because I'm not 100% sure it is faulty (and they are like $80.) In continuing to operate the truck for a few days to shake it down, I noticed that the serpentine belt was starting to wear on the non-grooved side about 1/8" in from the front edge. Upon observing the belt with the engine running, I discovered that while the belt was turning, it was actually riding up on the front lip of the vacuum pump pulley. I'm not 100% sure which part to blame for this.
I took the belt off and rotated all of the accessories. They all rotate freely, except the vacuum pump, which increases in resistance until a point and then releases the resistance. I think this is how it's supposed to operate, but it does seem to require me to turn it pretty hard to get it "over the hump."
When the belt is installed, it appears to line up with all of the pulleys except between the crank pulley and the vacuum pump. It appears that the crank pulley is slightly forward of the vacuum pulley. The vacuum pulley and A/C pulley seem to line up fine. The crank pulley and water pump pulley seem to line up fine, so I'm a little confused. If I were able to move the vacuum pulley forward about 1/4" I think the problem would be solved, but it makes me wonder if there isn't a bigger problem.
The previous owner didn't exactly maintain the truck well. It also has 4.10 gears which means this engine has gone around as many times as a truck with 3.73s and 200k miles.
If the crank pulley and/or harmonic balancer needed replaced, would the pulley slide forward like that? Would a bad harmonic balancer cause a crank position sensor code? How hard is it to replace the harmonic balancer, crank pulley, and crank position sensor?
I'm thinking that I should probably replace the harmonic balancer due to the age of the engine and the potential crank problems they can cause. Schuck's Auto parts has one with the crank pulley for $109.
Any experts care to speak up on what they think might be happening here?
Thanks!
Ryan
When I bought it, it had a service engine light and needed to be cranked 15+ seconds to start. It was also VERY noisy, which I suspected to be poor timing (probably due to whatever was causing the SES light) but it ran smoothly once started and has good power. The owner had also just replaced an oil cooler line because the serpentine belt broke and cut one of the oil lines.
I took the truck to a local diesel shop to have the timing checked and the codes read. The only code was a crankshaft position sensor code and the timing was way out of whack. They did a quick TDC learn and the engine quieted down a LOT to much more normal levels, but we decided to wait to do a proper timing adjustment since it was a lot of work just to get the truck started (starter was actually smoking). Once the code was cleared, the truck starts much faster, but still kind of stumbles through the start process.
I haven't replaced the crank position sensor yet because I'm not 100% sure it is faulty (and they are like $80.) In continuing to operate the truck for a few days to shake it down, I noticed that the serpentine belt was starting to wear on the non-grooved side about 1/8" in from the front edge. Upon observing the belt with the engine running, I discovered that while the belt was turning, it was actually riding up on the front lip of the vacuum pump pulley. I'm not 100% sure which part to blame for this.
I took the belt off and rotated all of the accessories. They all rotate freely, except the vacuum pump, which increases in resistance until a point and then releases the resistance. I think this is how it's supposed to operate, but it does seem to require me to turn it pretty hard to get it "over the hump."
When the belt is installed, it appears to line up with all of the pulleys except between the crank pulley and the vacuum pump. It appears that the crank pulley is slightly forward of the vacuum pulley. The vacuum pulley and A/C pulley seem to line up fine. The crank pulley and water pump pulley seem to line up fine, so I'm a little confused. If I were able to move the vacuum pulley forward about 1/4" I think the problem would be solved, but it makes me wonder if there isn't a bigger problem.
The previous owner didn't exactly maintain the truck well. It also has 4.10 gears which means this engine has gone around as many times as a truck with 3.73s and 200k miles.
If the crank pulley and/or harmonic balancer needed replaced, would the pulley slide forward like that? Would a bad harmonic balancer cause a crank position sensor code? How hard is it to replace the harmonic balancer, crank pulley, and crank position sensor?
I'm thinking that I should probably replace the harmonic balancer due to the age of the engine and the potential crank problems they can cause. Schuck's Auto parts has one with the crank pulley for $109.
Any experts care to speak up on what they think might be happening here?
Thanks!
Ryan