80 Cutlass with 6.2

[AndyL]

I've gotten about 40 emails on how I did this (sorry for the delay guys), here is a quick run down with some picts. My 80 Cutlass originally had an Olds 260, then a 468 Chevy, now a 6.2! Since G-Bodies also came with chevy engines the frame mount holes were already in there, but I had to move them back almost 1" for clearance.



Here is a basic pict of the engine bay:



http://www.streamlinemechatronics.com/picts/olds1.jpg



The engine had to be moved back for clearance of the power steering pump, swaybar to crank pully, oil pan and starter.



Power Steering:



http://www.streamlinemechatronics.com/picts/powersteering1.jpg



Crank pully:



http://www.streamlinemechatronics.com/picts/swaybar1.jpg



And oil pan:



http://www.streamlinemechatronics.com/picts/oilpan.jpg



Oil pan again:



http://www.streamlinemechatronics.com/picts/oilpan1.jpg



This picture is hard to get. You can see one of the shinny gold starter bolts, it is almost hitting the frame crossover. I'm using the newer gear reduction starter.



http://www.streamlinemechatronics.com/picts/starter.jpg



Check out the injector line vs. steering linkage:



http://www.streamlinemechatronics.com/picts/injectorline.jpg



The original heater box must be removed to clear the heads. At least the vehicles with AC, can't comment on ones without.


Attachment limit is 8, here is the last one:
http://www.streamlinemechatronics.com/picts/heaterbox.jpg

I installed some Pennsular Diesel super economy precups, for $65 each:eek:. I'm also running a 700R4 with 3.73s and 26.25" tall tires. Fresh injectors and IP from Kennedy Diesel. The pump is cranked and smokes pretty good when hammered! Straight dual exhaust with no mufflers!

I have plans for 3.23s in the rear. I'd like to keep my RPMs ~1800 while running 65-70MPH.

The engine is very heavy compared to the original 260 and the front is very bouncy. Moog 5664 front S10 springs did the trick, although I had to cut about 1/2 a coil off the bottom to get the height I wanted. Ended up installing/removing the set 5 times before I got it where I wanted!

Current mileage is averaging 25-27 cruising at ~65MPH @2200RPMs converter locked. I have a total of 3000 miles on the combo.

[AndyL]

And my favorite:

http://www.streamlinemechatronics.com/picts/burnout2.jpg

[AndyL]

Cannot edit my post, keeps complaining I have too many images (MP how about upping that limit :) )

The engine is from an 86 C1500, probably had 200K+ from the looks of the truck I yanked it from. The heads are secured by a set of ARP studs, I'm not a big fan of replacing gaskets :D

[More Power]

Great project!

Yes, I believe reducing engine rpms to the 1800-1900 range at your cruising speed would improve fuel economy. There must be a set of scrap 6.2L heads out there that have a good set of pre-cups....:)

I'll talk to Greg about the image limit....

Thanks for posting!

Jim

[AndyL]

Thanks! I spent months searching for Pre-Cups, called all vendors, then finally decided to order new from Penn!

This is actually stage one of the project. Basically it was too get it driving, test mileage etc.

Stage two is a complete engine rebuild and a set of twins.

I've also considered going DS4 with Lyndon's ECM package at some point. Carefull programming combined with a gentle cruise could make a very noticable improvment in MPG IMO.

[Craig M]

Test drove an 80's Cadillac that had a 6.2 installed in it. Fit up was like yours, no real big issues. Bolted right in to the mounts. Had to modify the transmission cross brace for the exhaust or some other reason. He did not have a turbo, so less issues. He had an auxillary transmission (not a Gear Vendors or US Gear, but similar) to keep rpm's down. I was tempted to buy, but body had issues.

[AndyL]

3.23 gears are on the way, 30+ MPG here we come!

[Warren96]

Awesome! Keep us posted!

[AndyL]

3.30 rear gears are now in! But i'm on vacation next week and it takes me at least 7 work days to empty a tank!

More in a couple weeks.

[AndyL]

I've now driven my first full tank with the 3.30s. Driving 65-70MPH, 402 miles at 13.9 gallons = 28.92. I'm gonna claim 29 :D This is running about 1800 to 2000 RPMs.

I'd like to somehow verify my speedometer calibration. According to my GPS I'm dead on. Following the mile markers over a 10 miles run I'm within 2 tenths. Interesting note, I've found that many of mile markers are up to 3 tents off, plus or minus. They all seem to average out though...

I'm not sure what is next for the Olds, any suggestions? The engine has at least 200K+, I'm sure I could pick up a bit of mileage changing the timing chain.

[ARAMP1]

How about a turbo!

[Chevrolet4x4s]

Im cookin up plans for a intercooled twin turbod (I hate Y pipes OK? and think it would be nice to do a twin turbo setup{adds another hundred smiles per hour:D}) 6.5 in a 2wd shortbed 73-87 and planning on using a t56 trans possibly an nv4500 dropping it adding ton sway bars and hopefully get good milage yours is an inspiration on that point espicially.
Does it stop ok with the vacume booster?
Thanks
Shane

edit gonna run electric fans in the quest for a few more mpg

[AndyL]

I have no real issues. If you pump the brakes 4-5 times you can consume the available vacuum quicker than it can build, but this is not normal practice. A time or two I have had a hard pedal, not really sure what caused it, I was able to stop but with a bit more effort. I've had thoughts of constructing a vacuum can, but I don't really think it is required.

Your vehicle will likely have a larger booster, that could effect the comparison.