Engine oil cooler line repair kit

[Robyn]

It is my understanding that there is a little clamp kit that is available to repair the anoying leaks of the factory cooler lines.

I asked the guys at the NAPA store and got blank stares.

If anyone knows about this a part number and or idea where to buy it would be sweeeeeeet.

Jim told me that Napa sells a clamp for this purpose????

My lines are fine accept for the little drips coming from the front crimp area.

Thanks

Robyn

[JeepSJ]

Not sure if there is a "kit"... Someone posted up a while ago where they just used a cutoff wheel to cut off the crimps and replaced them with hose clamps.

[Robyn]

If I cant find something I am going to buy a couple split set collars and toss them suckers in the lathe and make a set of special clamps to swedge them crimps down tighter.

We shall see.

[DaveNY]

Search Oil Coolant Lines (Shikaroka 3/07)

[Robyn]

I dropped him a PM and we shall see.
I read the posts on the subject. Seems far better to me than replacing the lines.
I have new lines but want to wait until such time that the engine is out to do the swap.

I will have time to really clean things up then as well as do other tinkering.
But for now its stop the oil leak time. :eek: driiiiiiiiiiiiiiiip drrrriiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiip

Thanks

Robyn

[deiseltranstech]

They are called "millor" or "milor" clamps(not sure if that is spelled correct or not), GM tried them a few years back as a way to quick fix cooler lines without replacing(in alberta)and they are not worth the effort as far as I'm concerned, regular hose clamps work better.

[Robyn]

Regular hose clamps?? as in stainless clamps like you use on heater and radiator hoses or ???

Did you cut the crimp ring to allow for more crimping or just tighten the clamps up om the exisitng ring as is???


Thanks

Robyn

[rjwest]

3/4 inch , look like small muffler clamp, I believe they are water hose clamps,
Napa has 2 kinds, exhaust and other ( waster hose ),
water hose is cheaper,

Install over the crimp, re tighten several times, oil leak will eventially stop.

[Shikaroka]

The ones I used were made for the air tubes on catalytic converters.
One of the guys at my local NAPA looked them up in his book for me. They looked like small exhaust clamps. I think I kept the boxes, I'll try to dig them up.

[KallyI]

This looks like what you are talking about.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=26849&highlight=clamp

[Shikaroka]

This looks like what you are talking about.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=26849&highlight=clamp


Yup, that's it. And, it has the NAPA parts numbers in there. That ought to help.

[Nobby]

Air Tube Clamps
The 3/4" Napa Part# is 732-1147

cheers
Nobby

[Robyn]

Thanks folks

This is definately going to beat snaking out the old lines for now.
I purchased a fresh set of lines but I want to wait until I have the time to yank the engine for a freshen up and then do it while the engine is out of the truck.

I have an 18:1 engine in mind for this truck.
Been snooping and want to get my little paws on a new AMG block and maybe a steel crank.
I have a complete 506 engine that is apart now and its OK but not the foundation I want to build a performance 6.5 on.

The rest of the parts can be reused in a fresh block.

For now though I dont want to mess around with any more than need be to get the truck reliable.

I hate oil leaks and the mess they leave so this is one area that has to be fixed.

Robyn

[Subzilla]

Jim B did a TDP article about 3 years ago or so. He totally removed the crimped connectors then double clamped the hoses onto the barbed fittings. I believe Dr. Lee suggested wiring the clamps to the hose to prevent popping off. I did the double clamping (using Ideal hose clamps) on my Blazer a few years ago and they have been leakfree. Took a little bit of effort but it was much cheaper than factory replacements.

[97-6.5TD-F]

http://www.dieselservices.com/html/gm_diesel/6_5_Turbo_Diesel/gm-diesel-special/dsg_heavy_duty_oil_cooler__line_kit_p132.cfm

The factory lines are junk in my opinion, will always leak. I say spend the money like I did and get this setup. Eliminates the factory clip style connectors with threaded fittings and stainless braided lines. Also comes with a high cap cooler:cool:

[Robyn]

I am watching all this very intently :D :) :rolleyes:

I like the braided line and the absence of the cheeeeeeeeeeeeezy crimped lines.

Once I get ready to do another engine the chances are very good I will toss the factory stuff and go after market.

thanks folks

Robyn

[twaddle]

Hi Robyn,
I have tried the stainless steel jubilee clips on my M1008/K30 cooler lines a while back and it did work for a bit. The main problem (as I see it) is the fact that GM use alloy tubing (too soft a metal) and not very thick which eventually gives way when clamped and causes whichever kinda clamping to eventually to become ineffective.

On my M1008 I got some Hydraulic system spec hoses made up several years ago, no problems since. My 6.5 Suburban is badly needing the cooler hoses done, I tried the stainless jubilee clips a long while ago but I shall maybe get some hyd spec hoses made up.

I personally think the alloy tubes on the GM hoses are a waste of time, may also be made worse by increased heat/cooling induced expansion and contraction of alloy compared to steel, but the main problem is the metal is too soft to maintain the clamping effect on the hose.

I think your eyes lit up at the thought of some shiny Stainless steel braided hoses on your new posin' cruiser, just be careful as this will make every other hose look DULL, so you'll have to invest in somemore SS braided hose and associated SS clamps.

Good luck and have fun

Jim

[Robyn]

Well I am not sure I will go the stainless route but probably just use commercial grade Hydraulic line with the reusable fittings ???

Not sure just yet.

I dont want to buy a new cooler so I may just machine some little adapter tubes from steel stock and braze them into some JIC fittings that have been worked over.

I can rob the nuts off of the original fittings and then duplicate the end that goes into the cooler with the O ring and braze it into a JIC fitting that has had the back side counterbored.

Will be an easy part to make in the lathe.

Thanks Jim

Robyn

[stingthieves]

Well I am not sure I will go the stainless route but probably just use commercial grade Hydraulic line with the reusable fittings ???
Will be an easy part to make .
Robyn

Then I started - and I HAD to install a remote oil filter Using the premium Canton racing products rotating billet oil filter adapter - and that had to be modified to clock into the correct position. Days later - now with a 2 quart remote oil filter - lines to that - lines to the new H7B Hayden hi BTU scrub oil cooler,,,,, I was back off the hoist.

RETROSPECT -- Just buy the kit from Greg..Commercial grade fittings are far larger and clumsier than the ones in the Lube specialists kit. Yes they are commercial grade and I could likely snag the contraption with a J hook and extract myself from a ditch - but unless your time is free and you have a hoist to work on for a few days - just buy the kit and be done in 2 hours.

Robyn--- are you still contemplating a chip? 30 or 60 hp as Websters web site advertises?

[Nobby]

Hey Robyn,
I went with the stainless braid and re-useable fittings, now not to spoil your machining fun but I was able to source metric straight thread to NPT adapters from parker for my existing cooler. Problem here is that as I understand it the earlier vehicles had 1/2" lines and a different thread on the cooler fitting.

My cooler was M27 x 2.0 which I adapted to 1/2" NPT so I used the following parker part#
222P-8-M127

Parker does make adapters that go to flare however there was nothing from
M27 x 2.0 to a -10 flare which is what I was using for 5/8" hose.

I have the parker catalogues here so can potentially find you the adapter part# if yours is a different thread.

Oh yeah whilst I was in there I installed a flare T just before the cooler for a bypass filter.

cheers
Nobby

[Nobby]

Oops I take that back, Parker does have an adapter that goes from
27 x 2.0 straight male to a -10 (5/8") SAE 45DEG male flare.

Straight 48F-10-MI27
90 DEG 149F-10-MI27
45 DEG 159F-10-MI27

Ahh now I am remembering why I could not use these, the Field attachable fittings that I used with the Stainless Braid Teflon hose only came JIC 37DEG and as already stated there was no 27 x 2.0 to -10 in JIC

That is why I went via the NPT style.

Now further to this I just found my notes, my research found that there were two types of cooler used one was metric (27mm on the nut flats) the other was imperial (7/8" on the nut flats).

Now for the 7/8" I am willing to bet that the straight thread 7/8" x 14, double check this, if so which gives the following parker adapters in -10 (5/8") JIC.
These are male/male

Straight 10 F5OX
45 DEG 10 V5OX
90 DEG 10 C5OX

Also I also was going to use regular Hyd. Hose of some description but chose the Stainless Braid for its smaller diameter, the run up by the engine mount is real tight.

hope this is off some help.

cheers
Nobby