Manual Glow Controller :)

[Mikeandwendy74]

So I did it yesterday, got some good copper wire, a Ford starter solenoid from a 1970's Big Block, a nice illuminated spring loaded toggle switch, and some good electrical connectors from the electrical supply house.
I can't take credit for the design but there are a few things I learned here. Being an electrician, I know the importance of a good solid electrical connection. There's no substitute when doing anything electrical, never cheap out and buy rinky dink connectors. If using stake-on fork or ring terminals, buy a GOOD set of crimpers don't hack it in with cheapo pliers.
Anyway, I followed some info I got in one of the post here, and ran a new number 6 copper wire from one side of the new solenoid direct from the battery. Then from the other side of the solenoid to the factory 1988 glow plug controller. Use a 1/2 inch wrench to remove the 2 little grey wires on the load side of the factory controller. CLEAN them with a small file, then install your brand new wire from the solenoid to this controller then reinstall the 2 grey leads which feed your glow plugs... make sure you have a good lock washer in there.
I ran a number 12 stranded wire into the cab of the truck for the switch with an inline 20 amp fuse. Come back off the switch from the ACC thats stamped on the switch to the new solenoid small terminal marked "S". Leave the one marked "I" alone. The old ford solenoids are grounded through the base of the solenoid so if you mount this against a good grounded piece of metal under the hood there's no need to run a ground back to the battery. The BEST thing to do here would be to find a good grounded piece of metal accesible from both sides to nut and bolt the solenoid to. Then run a number 12 awg wire from one of the mounting bolts direct back to the battery. Make sure you ground the switch inside the cab if neccesary.This is simple run a new number 12 awg wire from the ground terminal on the switch to a nice shiny spot that you just scraped with a file under the dash and connect a nice new ring terminal to finish it off. Guess what, when you just strip the wire about an inch and crank a screw down on it thats hack, give yourself a good ground.
Now comes the good part and a comparison too. Turn on ignition, let factory glow controller do its thing, but watch the volt guage on the dash. It jumps down quite a bit. After factory glow cuts out bang your new switch and watch the meter again, it comes down half as much, this is EXACTLY what you want. This also allows you to glow your plugs before even turning on your ignition. But wait, the way we wired it the WAIT light on the dash still comes up :) Nice.
Its a fairly cold day today in Rhode Island, about 27 this morning when I started up the dually, it never started so good. I glowed it with AC60g's for a while and it started up within 2 revolutions, with zero smoke, what a blessing. Ill post some pics in about an hour or so. Total time to install, about a careful hour. And don't forget to be careful with the factory glow controller when working on it, one side of it has 12 volts waiting to bite you hard at all times if you don't disconnect your batteries. Hope this helps.

[allformike]

could you email a copy of the digram or whatever you used to do this. thanks

allformike@comcast.net

[mstockton]

This is exactly what I was looking to do, anybody done this with a 82-84 system? The controllers seem much different, or can you just tap into the relay on the fender? I suppose some further research and wiring examination is in order, sounds like a terrific mod though...

-Martin

[More Power]

This is exactly what I was looking to do, anybody done this with a 82-84 system? The controllers seem much different, or can you just tap into the relay on the fender? I suppose some further research and wiring examination is in order, sounds like a terrific mod though...

-Martin

The 1982-84 glow systems are the easiest to convert to manual glow. The separate relay is already there... Just wire in a switch to the control terminals on that relay (switched 12v ignition & ground). The "Wait to Start" lamp on the dash receives power from the harness that powers each glow plug, so it'll work like you expect without doing anything special. :)

Jim

[BAD5oh]

The 1982-84 glow systems are the easiest to convert to manual glow. The separate relay is already there... Just wire in a switch to the control terminals on that relay (switched 12v ignition & ground). The "Wait to Start" lamp on the dash receives power from the harness that powers each glow plug, so it'll work like you expect without doing anything special. :)

Jim


Which of the 2 small terminals would you wire in the power side? Wire color? I would like to do the same in my 84 since I installed 60G plugs with the factory controller and relay before I found this site. It starts in 30deg weather but she struggles if its not plugged in

[joed]

It should be like the original one on my 82...

The terminal toward the front of the truck is hot when the key is turned to run. The terminal toward the windshield is grounded to close the relay contacts, so the easiest way is to wire a momentary push button switch to the back terminal, connected to a suitable ground.

To use it, turn the key to run, push the button to complete the ground and the glows activate. This should also turn on the glow plug light on the dash.

Hope that helps.

Joe.

[Low_Bridge]

I'm on the road w/ the 6.2 Command post C30 Van In Gulf Shores AL. Before Holiday FL (400 Miles) I left I tightened the Alternator belt and didn't have a problem until I got of the interstate 30 Miles form my destination. My 82 has manual glow I learned how to do from here maybe 5 years ago-


Here's what I need:

I've noticed a time or two the glow plug light comes on after the truck is up & running.-

I drop off the high way start driving at stop & go speeds & the controller start lighting the glow plugs every once & awhile-

And when it does & the lights are on Sqeek city on the belt - took 15 extra minutes getting to my destination.

Upon inspection the belt had stretched some more- the alternator hadn't slipped-

I went to NAPA & bought the premium belt and I'm about to put it on -

When the belt is not slipping the alternator charges right up against the red

Once my truck is warm it will start with out glow- so I don't have to to a R&R & on the road- to manual controller switch-

The Big Question: What is the easiest way to "disarm" the controller from glowing. Is there a spot on the fuse box?

I don't want the thing to go hay wire on the trip home (kinda want a quick fix & get back to family time- Remember it's in a van? I do New G60 Plugs install I'll go put the belt on & check back in

Happy New Year!

[Chevrolet4x4s]

Toggle switch in the power wire to the inhibit switch,Had one on the dash of my 85,Virtually ended the glow plug issues,GM had the winking eye system(I think thats what it was called) which would kick the glowplugs on while going down the road.
Shane

[Low_Bridge]

Might you recall what color wire that winker was?

[Chevrolet4x4s]

No I dont remember what color the wire was,Just find the power wire for the inhibit switch,IIRC, this will keep it from kicking the plugs on.
Shane

[Busted]

My '82 dually has the same issue, glow plug light fades in and out while driving. What's the inhibit switch--is that the 6-pin cylinder toward the back of the engine?

[flomulgator]

So I can't seem to make a new thread so I am posting in this one, the closest subject I can find.

After months of work I have finally replaced the engine in my 91 burb. An old 6.5 repower went out, an new 6.5 repower in. 6.5 block, all original 6.2 components. Now that I'm at the finish line, I can't get it to start. Followed TDP air-lock guidlines, no luck. Cranking power is weak near the end but I figure that's to be expected with the starter and batteries being used again and again. Still never caught even once, so I don't think that's the issue.

So I checked the voltage on a glow plug. I put the + on the glow plug wire and the - on the - battery terminal. Nothing (on "ON" cycle of engine when glow plugs normally light). Should that circut work that way? Is that indicative of no glow plug action? Can't really check the dash light as that is in pieces. Would no glow plugs lead to no start ever?

Also, I'm worried that if it is not lighting the glow plugs it may be that the controller is not properly grounded. The old studs on a water passage cover that it mounts to were replaced with new ones that are coated black. Not paint just that black color that some bolts come in. Could this color/coating be inhibiting my ground and thus the controller?

After months of hard work I just want to here that diesel roar to life and this final frustration is killing me! :mad:

[DmaxMaverick]

So I can't seem to make a new thread so I am posting in this one, the closest subject I can find.

After months of work I have finally replaced the engine in my 91 burb. An old 6.5 repower went out, an new 6.5 repower in. 6.5 block, all original 6.2 components. Now that I'm at the finish line, I can't get it to start. Followed TDP air-lock guidlines, no luck. Cranking power is weak near the end but I figure that's to be expected with the starter and batteries being used again and again. Still never caught even once, so I don't think that's the issue.

So I checked the voltage on a glow plug. I put the + on the glow plug wire and the - on the - battery terminal. Nothing (on "ON" cycle of engine when glow plugs normally light). Should that circut work that way? Is that indicative of no glow plug action? Can't really check the dash light as that is in pieces. Would no glow plugs lead to no start ever?

Also, I'm worried that if it is not lighting the glow plugs it may be that the controller is not properly grounded. The old studs on a water passage cover that it mounts to were replaced with new ones that are coated black. Not paint just that black color that some bolts come in. Could this color/coating be inhibiting my ground and thus the controller?

After months of hard work I just want to here that diesel roar to life and this final frustration is killing me! :mad:

The 6.2/6.5 Tech Forum is not open to new threads by general members. Admin's and Mod's only. Replies can be made by any member, though.

I copied your post to a new thread in the 6.2L forum. Although you have a 6.5L, it is in a 6.2L configuration, which essentially makes it a 6.2L (only with bigger holes).

[flomulgator]

Oh thanks! I didn't know about that rule, and it didn't give any hint as to why I couldn't post (since I'm a n00b I thought it was my account or something).

[Mikeandwendy74]

So I did it yesterday, got some good copper wire, a Ford starter solenoid from a 1970's Big Block, a nice illuminated spring loaded toggle switch, and some good electrical connectors from the electrical supply house.
I can't take credit for the design but there are a few things I learned here. Being an electrician, I know the importance of a good solid electrical connection. There's no substitute when doing anything electrical, never cheap out and buy rinky dink connectors. If using stake-on fork or ring terminals, buy a GOOD set of crimpers don't hack it in with cheapo pliers.
Anyway, I followed some info I got in one of the post here, and ran a new number 6 copper wire from one side of the new solenoid direct from the battery. Then from the other side of the solenoid to the factory 1988 glow plug controller. Use a 1/2 inch wrench to remove the 2 little grey wires on the load side of the factory controller. CLEAN them with a small file, then install your brand new wire from the solenoid to this controller then reinstall the 2 grey leads which feed your glow plugs... make sure you have a good lock washer in there.
I ran a number 12 stranded wire into the cab of the truck for the switch with an inline 20 amp fuse. Come back off the switch from the ACC thats stamped on the switch to the new solenoid small terminal marked "S". Leave the one marked "I" alone. The old ford solenoids are grounded through the base of the solenoid so if you mount this against a good grounded piece of metal under the hood there's no need to run a ground back to the battery. The BEST thing to do here would be to find a good grounded piece of metal accesible from both sides to nut and bolt the solenoid to. Then run a number 12 awg wire from one of the mounting bolts direct back to the battery. Make sure you ground the switch inside the cab if neccesary.This is simple run a new number 12 awg wire from the ground terminal on the switch to a nice shiny spot that you just scraped with a file under the dash and connect a nice new ring terminal to finish it off. Guess what, when you just strip the wire about an inch and crank a screw down on it thats hack, give yourself a good ground.
Now comes the good part and a comparison too. Turn on ignition, let factory glow controller do its thing, but watch the volt guage on the dash. It jumps down quite a bit. After factory glow cuts out bang your new switch and watch the meter again, it comes down half as much, this is EXACTLY what you want. This also allows you to glow your plugs before even turning on your ignition. But wait, the way we wired it the WAIT light on the dash still comes up :) Nice.
Its a fairly cold day today in Rhode Island, about 27 this morning when I started up the dually, it never started so good. I glowed it with AC60g's for a while and it started up within 2 revolutions, with zero smoke, what a blessing. Ill post some pics in about an hour or so. Total time to install, about a careful hour. And don't forget to be careful with the factory glow controller when working on it, one side of it has 12 volts waiting to bite you hard at all times if you don't disconnect your batteries. Hope this helps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJq5LdAGor0

heres a video of the controller very easy to make.

[btrapr]

This is a great post!

I watched the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJq5LdAGor0

but I am curious if anyone knows which wire and what size resistor to use to lengthen the cycle to around 10-12 seconds.

thanks

[MajMike]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJq5LdAGor0

heres a video of the controller very easy to make.

Does this apply to the '82, wondering as another post here said that one was simpler?

[Kennedy]

On my '84 I used the 85-93 glow controller and then added the resistor mod. Both of these were outlined in the Feature articles back in the day. This combined with my Quick heat glow plugs got me fully automated reliable and consistent cold starts at about any temp. It also made it so I could trust just about anyone start the truck without fear of issues.