Nudging the pump w/out special wrench?

[CedarGrove]

Anyone here ever nudge a pump one way or the other without kicking down for the special pump turning wrench? If so, what did you use? Any tips?

Lewis

[a5150nut]

Had to loosen the injector lines to get mine to move. Then it was by hand.

[DmaxMaverick]

Yeah. Never needed a "tool" to adjust the pump (other than an end wrench). If it needs more than hand pressure, the lines need to be loosened, then tightened after the movement. Once it is where you want it, the lines need to be loosened/tightened again to relieve stress. You don't want any stress on the lines.

[CedarGrove]

Don't you need to remove the manifold to loosen all of the lines?

Let me re-phrase...

Anyone ever nudge the pump without the special tool and without r & r'n the manifold?

[a5150nut]

Don't you need to remove the manifold to loosen all of the lines?

Let me re-phrase...

Anyone ever nudge the pump without the special tool and without r & r'n the manifold?

IIRC, yes. But they seal up real easy. Not like a Gasser where you are dealing with vacuum since you have a turbo.

[93_Burrito]

You should be able to nudge the pump just by removing the upper intake plenum, not the main manifold piece itself. The plenum has the elbow that hooks into the turbo... with 6 bolts that fasten it to the manifold.

[Warren96]

The only way I could loosen or tighten the THREE nuts holding the pump down was with a rachet wrench 15mm .The pump moved by hand for me. Good luck keep us posted on your prgress.

[JohnC]

Buy a cheap 15mm combination wrench. Heat it about 2 inches from the box end and put about 30* of bend to the right. Mark the current position of the pump, loosen the three nuts holdng it to the timing case and rotate it by hand. You're only turning it a degree or so, so the lines don't need to be loosened. They can be springy, though, and it may snap back to the original position on you, so watch the marks!

[CapnAmerica]

Ol' Cheapskate that I am, I made a wrench, about 20" long, from some 3/4" square tubing and a couple of 3/8" studs welded in the appropriate spots at the end. The unthreaded part is almost the same diameter as the IP holes made for that purpose. Some duct tape and an old bicycle handlebar grip complete the ensemble. I had to give it a bit of a bend so it would fish down through the connectors, oil hoses, and other interferences.

It surely is nice, when trying to hit the last number of -1.94 deg :D, to be able to tweak it "jes' a smidgen". Seriously, I never have gotten the last .04 deg, but it IS easier to get it where you want it with a wrench. If you have to remove the intake manifold (Yes, it is required to loosen the tubing nuts.) each time you tweak the pump - WOW!!! - talk about tedious; and a long time doing the job! The job is trial-and-error, after all, whether you, I, or Mr. Goodwrench does it; and time is $$$! If the nuts were properly tightened to begin with, and the pump set somewhere in the center of its adjustment, the small amount of torsion applied to the tubing by moving the adjustment is negligible.

The worst part, as pointed out by JohnC, is getting the 3 pump bolts loose, then tightened back up after all is complete. I recommend a ratchet wrench with a "fine" clicker, and a "half-moon" (Google it) box wrench, both in 15mm...or heat the handle of the ratchet one and get the curve you need to get to the bottom bolts. Get them long enough to reach...and tie a wire in case you drop one down under the manifold. it's a real pain to fish out!

Good luck!

[CareyWeber]

These wrenched may help with the 6.2/6.5 pumps.

http://gearwrench.com/catalog/wrenches/ratcheting/half_moon_reversible/

http://gearwrench.com/catalog/wrenches/ratcheting/s-shape_reversible/

Carey