Sorting out the bugs with a 2007 PJ trailer...

[Mark Rinker]

Bought a low mile (~5K miles advertised) 2007 PJ 14K gooseneck trailer a few months back. Owner had purchased a government surplus lot of reman 6.2L diesels in metal shipping cases, and used the new trailer to haul them home. After hearing his story, and doing the math, I wondered if the miles he originally claimed were understated, but the original rubber still looked really good, so...

Trailer was DOT'd when titled, got a clean bill of health, with one small exception - one tire had a sidewall 'bulge' on the inside where you'd only see it if under the trailer, or had the tire off. In retrospect, this should have been overloading history RED FLAG #1. Replaced that tire - couldn't match brand through my tire dealer, and figured all was well. A few long trips later, another 'bulged tire', this time on the outside where it was obvious. Replaced. In retrospect, this should have been overloading history RED FLAG #2. Contacted PJ to see if they'd do anything on the factory tires. No response. Previous owner offered to reimburse me without me even asking. Took him up on it. In retrospect, this should have been overloading history RED FLAG #3.

A Minnesota to Florida boat haul presents itself - 28' cruiser on a non-licensed 'yard trailer' (read junk trailer) for a marina owner that I know and like. Never giving it a second thought, we load the 12K of boat and trailer and I head off for the sunny southlands.

In central Georgia Sunday morning, I am cruising about 62mph when I hear a huge BOOM, the trailer jumps, and out of my passenger/ditch side mirror I see a tire, wheel, and brake hub flying off into the Georgia swamp...at least 25' in the air at is apogee...:eek: Looked like something out of NASCAR highlights.

After pulling over, flashers on, and getting the triangles strung out (you NEVER wait to do this, if a secondary accident happens and they aren't out, you'll be in deep trouble keeping your CDL) I had no problem finding the wheel and tire - just followed the plume of steam coming out of the frog water. Went for a wade. :cool:

Bearing failed on right rear corner. Beavertail ate the tire and rim on the way out the back. Spindle looked like someone took a torch to it. Backing plate 2" from cement, so retrieved triangles and limped up to exit 109 I75 in 'lovely' Vienna, Georgia. Surveyed the landscape and pulled into the cheapest motel with the largest back lot under lights. Within an hour, had a guy from the trailer park next door hired and he brought a compressor, air ratchet and impacts. Bought two 6"x6" 12' timbers from his next door neighbor and cut them into 12 2' blocks for suspending the trailer. (What, you don't carry your chain saw with you? Its right next to the generator and the 3ton floor jack in the back seat if you are from Minnesota and haul boats!)

Pulled the axle and strapped it to the back of the Kodiak. Made a few calls and located Macon Truck and Trailer as the best shop in the area for heavy stuff. So today was all about working with them and and canvasing the area for a new axle. None were located, but the good news is PJ Trailers has agreed to send a NEW complete replacement axle, built out with new hubs, bearings, and brake hardware to boot. :p

Bad news is it will be 'two or three days'... :(

I think the trailer may have seen ALOT of heavy overloading in its short life with the first owner. Either that, or axles by Quality Manufacturing aren't using Timken bearings. I'll find out when I see the new one.

"Dexter 7Ks with oil bath hubs...Dexter 7Ks with oil bath hubs...Dexter 7Ks with oil bath hubs..." thats how I'll fall asleep tonight. <<<Begin shameless Dexter plug: My 2004 bumper pull trailer has over 250K on these axles and has gone through two sets of springs without a bearing replacement. End shameless Dexterplug>>>

Spent my afternoon chasing down a rim and a couple new skins. Inspected brakes and greased remaining 'good' (now questionable) hubs on front axle.

Life goes on. More soon from lovely Vienna! Sounds better than it looks, trust me.

[EdHale]

I now know what happened. What was this you said Saturday afternoon about having plenty of time to make it to your destination in sunny Florida? Ed

[ISEEDIT]

Big bummer :eek: . You seemed to be pretty prepared (chainsaw - I'll be useing that trick). Not that it helps, but I've never been partial to PJ. They are lower priced for a reason. I bought a gooseneck from a dealer in Iowa that offers a selection of good, better and best priced/manufactured trailers - PJ was entry level and not talked up highly. Maybe that junk boat trailer would have held up after all? Better luck for the rest of your trip . . . .

[Mark Rinker]

Nobody that builds or sells trailers talks up anybody elses trailers. Its a profit motive thing. Actually PJs aren't a cheap trailer by any measurement - if you paid more than a new PJ, it must be some trailer. Is it a MacLander perhaps?

I have seen alot of two and three year old PJs that have held their paint longer in salt country than others - that was one consideration in the purchase. Enclosed wiring, good welds, excellent triple ramps and general construction techniques were the other. Couplers, chains, light fixtures, wheels and tires are all common stuff - most are using good brands today.

As this situation points out, brand and lubrication method of axles is key. A $15 outer bearing failure can cripple ANY trailer, regardless of all other factors good or bad. I would venture a guess that the weak point in this case will be a non-Timken brand bearing set used in the Quality Manufacturing axles. If so, they will ALL be replaced in short order.

Question for consideration: Would your Iowa manufacturer drop ship you a complete axle (hubs, bearings, brake hardware) free of charge without questioning load or miles under the same circumstances? Alot of small trailer shops would be giving me the run-around on this one, even if the the load its hauling today isn't too heavy.

Right now I can't say much bad about PJ for standing behind their product. It might not even be their fault, but they are stepping up, regardless - no questions asked.

[trbankii]

Sorry to hear of your misfortune. Found myself alongside the road down in WV the other week due to a idler pulley that went south with no warning signs. Unfortunately, parts availability in the middle of nowhere meant an overnight stay for me as well. Then an hour after I got back on the road I had the belt jump again - the tension seemed good and the original belt was retained when the pulley was replaced. But I was able to get the belt back on and limp to a parts store for a new belt - which was significantly shorter and increased the tension. I've had no problems since replacing the belt and in hindsight it should have been replaced with the pulley just to be safe.

But I'm definitely adding to my onboard tools and a set of flares and triangles after that experience.

[SoTxPollock]

Mark, sorry about your trailer luck there, wow o wow, it could have been a lot worse. Good thing you didn't panic and jerk the wheel and flip the whole rig, man don't even think about it.
I suspect you may have encountered some cheap Chineese bearings, which are notorious for failure. I'd suggest replacing the rest with Timken's. Think about it why should a bearing suspended in oil ever fail. It shouldn't. My trailer has Dexter 10K's I sure don't expect to ever replace the bearings, now you've got me wondering about the lubricant. As long as everything stays sealed it should not deterioate, except over a long, long time with moisture condensing inside the housings. I'v seen a lot of PJ's going down the interstate, I doubt its their manufacturing, but you might inquire where they purchase their bearings from, especially about the time they manufactured that particular lot of trailers. They may learn something in the process that could benefit them and others too.

I assume you were on I-10, I can still hear that thunk a thunk a thunk sound in my head from traveling that route a few years back. Shocks really take a beating on pavement like that, and I guess axles do too. Enjoy the southern hospitality as much as you can, there are a bunch of good folks in that part of the country. that really know how to cook.

[EdHale]

Mark, I hope that you have your axle by now and are getting your delivery made. If you should be traveling back up I75 Saturday afternoon the invitation is open for you to stop by Spring City, TN and we have a nice warm bed for you on a houseboat on Watts Bar Lake. Tyler and I will be up there this weekend and will probably take the houseboat out for a nite on the water and cook a few steaks. If you are going north on I75 in Tennessee you would exit I75 at mile 52 and go west about 20 minutes and you are there. I will give you more detailed directions if you can make it. I will be heading up that way Friday after work. Ed

[cowboywildbill]

Glad to hear you didn't wreck because of that. I have dexter axels on our trailers, I hope they have timken bearings on them? I hope they don't use junk. I am due to repack them next spring.

[Mark Rinker]

Resolved. Got the complete axle on Thursday afternoon, installed, and boat is now floating in Cortez, Florida. On the way home. Will definately be replacing the bearings in the front original axle...and keeping a close watch on the new one!

I noticed that the original axles were center drilled 'EZ-Lube' with a tab style castle nut retainer. The new axle has an offset drilled 'EZ-Lube', and a cotter pin style castle nut retainer...

Any opinions on which style is better?

[rustyk]

First the E-Z Lube - I've never been a fan of this (or the Bearing Buddy) because it's impossible to tell where the grease is actually going. Not to mention, that one can overgrease the bearings with a system like that. Further, I don't like the E-Z Lube's putting the spring-loaded seal at the back, where it can't be seen. The Bearing Buddy at least allows on to see when the ensemble is filling with grease.

Actually, speaking as a reformed fuels and lubricants engineer, bearings actually need very little grease to be protected. Prelubed at the factory, those axle bearings probably got <1 oz. of grease, and that would be plenty.

All that said, the Bearing Buddy or the E-Z Lube do provide a way to inject lube into the bearings without pulling the wheel, and that's more likely to cause folks to grease the bearings. As for me, I pull the wheel so I can inspect the bearing and clean out the old grease. But then, I've never been one to make things easy on myself :D.

For castellated nuts and tabs vs. cotters, I've always favored the cotters. It's pretty easy to replace a cotter - ever had to find a tab collar when the tabs break off?

[arveetek]

First the E-Z Lube - I've never been a fan of this (or the Bearing Buddy) because it's impossible to tell where the grease is actually going. Not to mention, that one can overgrease the bearings with a system like that. Further, I don't like the E-Z Lube's putting the spring-loaded seal at the back, where it can't be seen. The Bearing Buddy at least allows on to see when the ensemble is filling with grease.

Actually, speaking as a reformed fuels and lubricants engineer, bearings actually need very little grease to be protected. Prelubed at the factory, those axle bearings probably got <1 oz. of grease, and that would be plenty.

All that said, the Bearing Buddy or the E-Z Lube do provide a way to inject lube into the bearings without pulling the wheel, and that's more likely to cause folks to grease the bearings. As for me, I pull the wheel so I can inspect the bearing and clean out the old grease. But then, I've never been one to make things easy on myself :D.

For castellated nuts and tabs vs. cotters, I've always favored the cotters. It's pretty easy to replace a cotter - ever had to find a tab collar when the tabs break off?


I completely agree with all the above statements.

Being in the RV business, we see a lot of the E-Z lube axles. The biggest problem with them is that the customer will pump too much grease into the cavities and then blow out the grease seal, causing grease to end up all over the brake linings. This results in no brakes!

I also prefer the cotter pin style axle.

Casey