Not sure where I went wrong......

[eroessler]

Let me start off by saying that I am no mechanic, just a guy who likes to work on his own vehicle and save money by DIY'ing things with the aid of manuals and a decent working knowledge of mechanical type stuff.
That said....
:D
I finally, successfully installed my 6.2 into my '89 Blazer. Everything went into place better than expected(I think there is a family curse that started with me). The engine cranked and actually started..... and that is where my problem began.
:mad:
The old truck rumbled to life and then proceeded to to redline and wouldn't shut off. I turned off the key hoping that it would shut off, but no luck. the engine continued to run (wide open) until I could stop the fuel flow.
:(
As far as I can tell, I followed the directions in the manual (haynes), but I am at a loss. I could understand if it ran rough or had a slow idle, but the complete opposite happened.
If anyone could give me pointers, it would be greatly appreciated. The motor that I put in was a surplus military 6.2 that was rebuilt and all parts were switched from my old 6.2.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Eugene
:o

[Chevrolet4x4s]

check the power wire to the I/P make sure it is hot when the key is in start and run and no power when the key is off.
Shane

[eroessler]

I checked the power in the run and start positions. The power is there when the key is turned and absent when in the "off" position.
If you have any other leads, Iwould appreciate it. Still a little gun-shy to try starting it.
Thanks,
Eugene

[daustin]

I'd look at the shut-down soliniod on the I/P. Did you use the I/P off the civvi 6.2? Military ones are usually 24v.
Don

[eroessler]

:oI'm not sure where the shut down solenoid is located. Haynes is not so great about detailed parts break-down.
Also, I swapped the govenor cover assemblies from civi IP to the other.
Kind of thinking now that it is going to need to be changed....
Thanks for the info.
Eugene

[daustin]

The govenor swap may be part of the problem. On my '93 mechanical IP 6.5 DB2 pump (very similar to the 6.2 DB2 pump) the factory service manual warns against installing it incorrectly. Say's that "engine runaway will happen if installed incorrectly". Might be exactly what you have. I can bring in the book to work and scan those pages for you, it also has instructions on how to swap/install that without the special tool they list. If you want those pages, PM me and i'll email them tomorrow.
Don

[eroessler]

:rolleyes:Man that sounds familiar..... engine runaway..... (AKA - screaming 6.2 liter and panicking idiot trying to shut it off). Pretty sure I could have won some money if my wife had had her video camera.
That would be awesome if you could send me that info.
My e-mail is firedude451@hotmail.com
I really appreciate all of your help.
Thanks,
Eugene
P.S - Do I need to pull the IP or will it work if I just adjust the metering valve and replace the govenor cover.

[daustin]

If i remember correctly the cover, solinoid and govenor are what's involved. No IP removal required unless access to the cover is restricted. I'll bring the big book in tomorrow and email you those pages. Didn't look to hard, just a little particular. Speaking of jumping around a running engine. 2 weeks ago i was starting a new engine in my '69 camaro, carb flooded a little and it backfired (didn't have the timing right) and started a little fire in the intake manifold. I ran around like a crazy man (hood was on) trying to find something to put it out with, didn't but pulled off my t-shirt and smothered it. Wife & 13 year old son walked out to the back deck, asked if i was ok and if i messed up the car/engine and why i didn't have a shirt on!!! T-shirt was in my hands smoking slightly at the time. LOL I'll help out a fellow texan, moved here from a little outside houston. :o)

Don

[eroessler]

Really appreciate all of the help. The Haynes manual doesn't go into specifics on how to re-install, just that it should "click" when 12v source is applied.
Once again, Thanks!
Eugene

[DmaxMaverick]

Sounds to me like you have TWO gremlins at work here. The FSO solenoid is not stopping fuel flow, and the governor is not installed correctly or is out of calibration (something came loose when you have the cover off??). The FSO should be correct for the voltage, and will just not allow fuel or burn up if it's wrong.

Any time I start an engine after messing with the IP (or other components that can cause runaway), I always have an emergency stop plan. Usually it's a board (1/2"+ plywood) I can drop on the intake to stop airflow. Shutting off the fuel doesn't always work. If you have a problem with crankcase venting, where the crankcase oil gets into the intake, it will run away until it runs out of oil supply, grenades, or seizes. Stopping the air is the only way to shut it down safely. Anything can happen, and it usually does. This is not your issue, as stopping the fuel stopped the engine. Still, have a good method of stopping the airflow handy the next time. It's quicker than starving the fuel, and will drop the RPM's immediately. It may also be a good idea, before you start the engine again, to pull the valve covers and confirm you haven't bent a pushrod(s). An overran engine will very often bend them, very quickly. Running an engine with bent pushrods can cause all kinds of other problems, like broken valves, etc. Much depends on how fast and how long the engine ran.

Note: Toss the Haynes manual. More often than not, they are less than helpful, and can mislead you on many procedures. The Clymer's or Chilton's manuals are better, but not by much. Helm is the one to have, if you can find it. Try Ebay. Other than that, TDP is the best resource.

[daustin]

I scanned my factory service manual pages this am for that stuff, emailed it to you. Hope it helps.
Don

[Robyn]

OH Yeah, SCEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEM :eek::eek::eek:

Any time you take the top cover off the IP you must be sure to get the little linkage parts back in place right.

The check is to listen to the pump and connect and disconnect the power wire. There should be a distinct CLICK when things are right, NO CLICK DONT START IT.

The chapter on doing the work on replacing the FSO is adamant about this issue.

Glad you did not grenade your engine.

There is a writeup here at the page on turning up the Fuel flow on the IP and there is a section on reinstalling the cover and the very issue you encountered.

I remember the first one I changed and I was a little skitish after reinstalling things. I knew all well I had done it right buTTTTTT I have heard the HOROR stories and that was enough to make me a tad jumpy.

Check it out carefully and I think you will see where things went askew.

Best and good luck

Robyn

[eroessler]

:D:D:D:D
Well, after disassembling, re-assembling and another screaming start, I was finally able to find the gremlin. When I pulled the pump cover off, I decided to compare the two covers to each other. Apparently, when I incorrectly installed the pump cover, I inadvertently bent the shut-down lever. This made the cover feel as though it was going in properly, but was not engaging the linkage hook. Therefore, I was able to hear all of the proper "clicks" but it still would not function properly. I removed the good lever, replaced the bad lever, installed the cover, listened for the "clicks" (several times over), said a prayer, crossed my fingers, said another prayer, turned the key and winced in fear and....... IT WORKED!!!!!!!
I still am going to remove the valve covers and check the condition of all of the pushrods, etc... But I wanted to let ya'll know my findings in case anyone else may run into this problem in the future.
I also wanted to take this opportunity to thank everyone for all of your assistance in chasing down the gremlin. Your help has been so greatly appreciated. (especially the plywood idea, wow did that work quick).
Thank you all and God bless you,
Eugene
;);););)