Brake replacement advice...

[Luis]

My 2001 2500 D/A CC 4x4 has 111k and the original brakes still have plenty of pad and still work fine. However I know I will need to replace them soon and would like to be prepared with the proper tools and advice. I have a few questions if anyone could help and any other advice and/or suggestions are greatly appreciated. The answers provided will also help me determine if I should pay the extra cost and have the service performed at the shop. I have performed brake jobs on older vehicles and I have some equipment and tools.
1- Do I need special a special tool (and size) to remove the caliper bolts?
2- Do I need special a special tool (and size) to remove the caliper mounting brackets?
3- Do I need special a special tool (and size) to remove the parking brake cable?
4- Should I replace the front wheel bearing/hubs?
5- Do I need special a special tool (and size) to remove the front wheel hubs?
6- Are there any bleeding procedures I need to follow for the ABS system?
Any advice is greatly appreciated…Thanks in advance!

[linchhummmer]

#1 you will need about a 45 or 50 "torx plus" socket to remove the caliper
#2 you dont need to remove the mounts unless you want to turn your rotors or get new ones if you do it is going to be a metric bolt
#3since your truck has disc brakes you wont need to remove the parking brake cable
#4 you shouldnt have to replace the hub but check the play in the bearings and replace if nessary
#5 no just your standerd tools
#6 you dont need to take the brake lines off the calipers to change the brakes be sure to not leave the caliper hanging by the lines try to hang it from the fram or something

[Luis]

Thanks linchhummmer...I did a little more searching this morning and found the following suggestions as well:

1. Make sure you know the rear hub size before going to the Auto parts store - there are two sizes for the rear rotors.

2. Buy a T55 torx bit to remove the rear calipers, the T60 used for other GM vehicles is too big and if you have a torx set, it probably only does to T50.

3. Buy a 18MM boxend extension for your 1/2 in drive breaker bar. The caliper bracket mounting bolts have locktite on them are difficult to remove with a wrench and there is not enough room for breaker bar and socket (or air tool) between the caliper bracket and knuckle.

4. The rotors may need some assistance before they will come off the hub (the bigger the hammer the better). They did come off easier that the rotors on my 1997 K2500 did.

Question on #3 above...where do I find an 18mm box end wrench for my 1/2" breaker bar? Does it have to have to be flat surface box or 45 degree box?

[linchhummmer]

i would just put a socket on it thats what i do