Parts/Components Identification - Help the virgin

[Jambi]

Have a few questions, mainly about what is what on my engine. I've circled and placed captions into the pics.

I have TDP trouble shooting and repair guide, chilton's repair manual, and Hayne's Diesel repair manual.

I'm just trying to learn as much as I can ATM.

Starts hard and just won't start at all unless I'm on the fuel pedal. Won't high idle at all unless I do it via the fuel pedal. Engine dies unless I "High-Idle" it at a cold start up.
Typical white smoke that clears up a after 2-3 minutes of running. Starts great after it's warmed up.

All new 60G plugs all around, I think that the wires are not making good contact at the plugs themselves, any tips on where to find new connectors/wires?

From what I've read my engine has no EGR.

Runs rough, I'm planning on having the injectors tested.

Receipts I found in the Suburban showed that the fuel was turned-up for "more power." I have no turbo but I'd like to turn the fuel back down to where it's supposed to be, better safe than sorry.

TIA everyone

SubbyengineE_1-2.jpg (http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c272/mutesch/1985%20Suburban/SubbyengineE_1-2.jpg)

SubbyengineE_3.jpg (http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c272/mutesch/1985%20Suburban/SubbyengineE_3.jpg)

SubbyengineE_4-5.jpg (http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c272/mutesch/1985%20Suburban/SubbyengineE_4-5.jpg)

SubbyengineE_6.jpg (http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c272/mutesch/1985%20Suburban/SubbyengineE_6.jpg)

SubbyengineE_7.jpg (http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c272/mutesch/1985%20Suburban/SubbyengineE_7.jpg)

SubbyengineE_8.jpg (http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c272/mutesch/1985%20Suburban/SubbyengineE_8.jpg)

SubbyengineE_9.jpg (http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c272/mutesch/1985%20Suburban/SubbyengineE_9.jpg)

SubbyengineE_10.jpg (http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c272/mutesch/1985%20Suburban/SubbyengineE_10.jpg)

[DmaxMaverick]

1 - CDR (Crankcase Depression Regulator) Diesel version of a PCV. Necessary item. Cleanable, but not serviceable. Often get blamed for excess crankcase vapor, but rarely actually fail. They get dirty inside, though (condensed oil vapor).

2 - Cruise control servo. NOT associated with the high idle. The high idle solenoid is a little device near/under the cruise servo. A little larger than a 35mm film cannister.

3 - Yep. That's a leaky injector fitting. No doubt about it. Fix it. Should be able to loosen the nut and verify the flare engages the injector squarely, then retighten. Check the line for damage, crack, or other reason for a leak. You can get a replacement line, if necessary. Make sure it is the same as what you have now, or replace all of them.

4 - Vacuum pump.

5 - GP controller.

6 - TV (Throttle Valve) cable for the tranny (700R4).

7 - NOT the fuel adjustment screw (it's under the pump cover). It's just a screw. May have had a tag attached to it at one time.

8 - High idle solenoid. Adjustable with the slot in the end. Should engage on a cold start, and with A/C on. You have to press the go pedal to engage it once the key is on, like old carburetter vehicles (will not pull the throttle in under its own power).

9 - Looks like someone spilled a little oil during a service. Clean it and watch it. Could be a valve cover or timing cover leak, but doesn't look bad, unless it causes a drip.

You do not have an EGR. If you did, you'd see the valve pod in the middle of the intake, between the lid studs, with a vacuum line going to it through the air cleaner. The 8th digit of your VIN should be an "F", indicating it didn't have one to start with. If the 8th digit of your VIN is a C, then someone ditched the EGR, and replaced or modified the intake manifold (I'd have to see it to know for sure.

That leaky injector may/may not be a cause of a rough engine. Depends on how bad it's leaking. Fix that before anything else. Replacing the injectors is always a good idea if they have high miles/time, or you don't know.

[Jambi]

Oops! :o that first picture should have been labeled as the CDR. I seems I had EGR on the mind when I was labeling the pics!

My Engine is a "J" code, at least the 8th vin digit is a "J."



Cleanable, but not serviceable. Often get blamed for excess crankcase vapor, but rarely actually fail. They get dirty inside, though (condensed oil vapor).


any particular way or tips to cleaning this little guy, I'll try to source a new one. I'm also getting some fairly wide ranging oil pressures via the OEM guage, less than 40 to a tad over 80 when I really got on it. I'll test the CDR with the clear tube trick.



8 - High idle solenoid. Adjustable with the slot in the end. Should engage on a cold start, and with A/C on. You have to press the go pedal to engage it once the key is on, like old carburetter vehicles (will not pull the throttle in under its own power).


sounds like I need to read up on the whole cold advance/fast idle stuff and confirm power is getting to where it's supposed to be when under 95f and if it is getting power, and verifying that the solenoid in functioning.

seems like I'll need to get under the pump cover to turn the fuel back down...

Thanks Dmax

this place is amazing!

[DmaxMaverick]

The CDR has NOTHING to do with oil pressure. Actually, neither does the OEM gage:) (they are notoriously inaccurate). Best used for trend tracking, rather than actual pressure indication. Your oil pressure sounds fine, even for an OEM gage. Cleaning the CDR entails nothing more than hitting it with some solvent or #2, and a toothbrush. Like I said, they rarely really fail, but get blamed a lot for something they are not responsible for. The pat answer is it's probably OK. Otherwise, just replace it, but they're not cheap. It's purpose is to prevent too much vacuum at the crankcase at higher RPM's, and allow free flow venting at idle and lower RPM's. It's supposed to be oily and messy.

The clear tube trick is for testing air leaks in the fuel system. The clear tube will go onto the return line at the IP. Has nothing to do with the CDR. If you are having hard starts with lots of white smoke and rough running, you'll use this method to check for air in the fuel system (after you've confirmed your glow plugs/controller, timing and compression is all good). That's it, serves no other purpose.

Every 6.2 I've had, I've rigged a toggle switch to the high idle solenoid. Comes on when you need it, not when you don't. Nice for idling with the A/C on (if yours doesn't do it automatically), and really cold warm ups. You can do the same with the HPCA (don't use the HPCA on a warm engine).

[Jambi]

The CDR has NOTHING to do with oil pressure. Actually, neither does the OEM gage:) (they are notoriously inaccurate). Best used for trend tracking, rather than actual pressure indication. Your oil pressure sounds fine, even for an OEM gage.


Need some real guages!



Cleaning the CDR entails nothing more than hitting it with some solvent or #2, and a toothbrush. Like I said, they rarely really fail, but get blamed a lot for something they are not responsible for. The pat answer is it's probably OK. Otherwise, just replace it, but they're not cheap. It's purpose is to prevent too much vacuum at the crankcase at higher RPM's, and allow free flow venting at idle and lower RPM's. It's supposed to be oily and messy.


That makes me feel better, I'll clean it up and be happy.



The clear tube trick is for testing air leaks in the fuel system. The clear tube will go onto the return line at the IP. Has nothing to do with the CDR. If you are having hard starts with lots of white smoke and rough running, you'll use this method to check for air in the fuel system (after you've confirmed your glow plugs/controller, timing and compression is all good). That's it, serves no other purpose.


Thanks for making that clear for me :)



Every 6.2 I've had, I've rigged a toggle switch to the high idle solenoid. Comes on when you need it, not when you don't. Nice for idling with the A/C on (if yours doesn't do it automatically), and really cold warm ups. You can do the same with the HPCA (don't use the HPCA on a warm engine).

Now that is a smoking good idea! :cool:

Thanks a million