conversion questions

[btmurph]

OK folks, I'm converting my 1970 Chevy p/u to a 6.5L and I have a couple of questions with more to come I'm sure! Eventually (when things are finished!) I'll post a whole conversion thread with pics. I finally got my motor from the rebuilder and is outfitted fully Humvee.

First question, what the heck is the fuel line coming out of the TOP of the lift pump?
http://picasaweb.google.com/btmurph/TruckPictures/photo#5186517289904658546

Second, which oil cooler port is the outlet and which the inlet?
http://picasaweb.google.com/btmurph/TruckPictures/photo#5186516168918194194

Third, can I just block these coolant ports and pull that brass barb on the crossover?
http://picasaweb.google.com/btmurph/TruckPictures/photo#5186517285609691234

Fourth, can I just pull the elbow (covered by the green thingy) and put my oil pressure gauge tube in that port in the block or do I need an oil pressure sender for anything on the motor?
http://picasaweb.google.com/btmurph/TruckPictures/photo#5186516151738324962

Finally, do I need to secure the fuel lines over the valve covers, if so, how?
http://picasaweb.google.com/btmurph/TruckPictures/photo#5186518393711253682

Thanks ahead of time everybody!

[Robyn]

(Fuel Pump)
That line is the fuel feed line to the filter. Looks like it has a short hose on it??? The Civy stuff has a metal line that screws in and the line lays up along the engine and goes back to the fuel filters.
Get creative. :D

(crossover ports)
You can plug the two ports on top of the crossover with some pipe plugs or use one for feeding coolant to >????? or for installing a manual gauge

Normally the temp gauge goes into the LH head at the front outside corner

(oil cooler lines)
Depending on what sort of cooler you use it wont make any difference which you hook where.
If the cooler has specific in and out ports just get things ready to go and see which line oil squirts out of when you spin the engine over.

During initial startup procedures you can spin the engine with the glow plugs out to make getting the air out of the fuel system easy.
While doing this the oil pump is going to be priming the system.
Have a helper run the starter while you watch the lines up front at the cooler and then you can get it handled.

(Oil pressure port)
Yes you can attach your oil pressure gauge tube at that fitting

(attaching fuel lines)
There should be some little sheet metal brackets that bolt to the upper VC bolts that provide a place to secure the fuel lines.

They may have been lost during the life of this engine.
Some mechanics dont replace this stuff as it takes time and the military motor pool guys may have ditched them.

You should be able to scare some up at a bone yard.

These brackets normally attach to the stud top bolts on the VC's


Hope this helps.

Best

Robyn

[DmaxMaverick]

The little hose on the fuel pump is a vent. Civilian models have only a weep hole, but the military version needs the vent hose for deep fording and a higher rate of dust/debris. You can either remove the hose, leave it, or plumb it into the intake. Don't plug it, or the pump will pump less efficient, and fail prematurely. It probably wouldn't hurt, if you don't plumb it, to install an elbow to turn the opening down (prevent dirt from "falling" in).

Very nice looking engine! BTW....If you don't plan on using the fan clutch and/or the pulleys that came with it, I'd be happy to take it/them off your hands. They may not fit into your chassis.

[btmurph]

OK, guy & gal thank you much so far! Temp guage is installed on the front left head, http://picasaweb.google.com/btmurph/TruckPictures/photo#5186517268429822002
One lead goes to my temp gauge and one to the IP, right?
Good to know things should be straight forward as far as plugging the crossover ports and plumbing the oil cooler lines.
DMAX, I hope the pullys and clutch fit, they just look too cool! I'm putting this into my 2wd truck which had a fair amount of clearance in front of the old motor (a couple of inches)
http://picasaweb.google.com/btmurph/TruckPictures/photo#5173547275401130082
and had a big block option and I think I can even move the engine crossmember back and inch or two if necessary (there are other bolt holes in the frame) :)
A pick n pull is definately in my future for brackets and other things (I still have to get an air cleaner and glowplug wires!).
My biggest issue I can see right now is I can't figure out how to mount my clutch z-bar as there's no mounting holes on the new engine like on the old one
http://picasaweb.google.com/btmurph/TruckPictures/photo#5173548306193281202
see the bolts near the oil filter? I'm trying to not completely rework the clutch system (hydraulic or cable actuated) and trying to save the z-bar setup for cost reasons. Any ideas? I'm hoping when I test fit the motor there'll be enough clearance to do some sort of a-frame out of 1/4" steel mounted horizontally to the frame... or maybe a hydraulic clutch is in my future? <sigh>
Thanks again, I'm sure I'll have loads more questions for all! ;)

Brian

[DmaxMaverick]

......DMAX, I hope the pullys and clutch fit, they just look too cool! I'm putting this into my 2wd truck which had a fair amount of clearance in front of the old motor (a couple of inches)......

The clutch isn't viscous. It needs pressure plumbed to it, or it won't work. You'll need a thermostatic valve, and plumbing for the source, valve, and clutch.

[btmurph]

pressure source from? bummer, I may be interested in selling then... I'll have to check a few things