Any tips to r&r ignition switch?

[CedarGrove]

I've got the fishbite thing happening. Replaced the PMD and fishbite continues. Now I'm headed for the ignition switch. Anything I need to now before I go in? I did one on the '83 a few years ago and it was a bit of a pain but I don't remember the details.

Who here has done it and what do I need to know?

Thanks,

Lewis

[ronniejoe]

Before you tear into the ignition switch, have you checked to make sure that your lift pump is working?

[rhsub]

What vehicle ?
tilt steering?
air bag?
Column or floor shift?
I broke my crystal ball:rolleyes:
Ron

[CedarGrove]

What vehicle ?
tilt steering?
air bag?
Column or floor shift?
I broke my crystal ball:rolleyes:
Ron

98 K3500
Yes on tilt
No on airbag
Column shift/auto

The fuel pump is running and pumping plenty of fuel with the engine running.

Lewis

[More Power]

The Haynes #24065 repair manual contains information on steering wheel removal and ignition switch replacement. :)

Jim

[97-6.5TD-F]

I dont pull the steering wheel, I just pull the bottom cover and knee panel, then its two screws and the harness. That is of course if you are talking about the ignition switch and not the tumbler.

[CedarGrove]

Yes. Just the switch. This is all I needed to know. I think the 98 will be much simpler than the '83 that I did.

Thanks,

Lewis



I dont pull the steering wheel, I just pull the bottom cover and knee panel, then its two screws and the harness. That is of course if you are talking about the ignition switch and not the tumbler.

[CedarGrove]

Looks like I need an inverted e4 torx driver to get to the top left screw on the switch. I have a socket that worked on the bottom right screw but the top left will not allow the socket to get in there. Do I need to do more dis-assembling to use the socket, do I find a driver that will squeeze in there, or is there a trick that I am missing?

Lewis

[diesel65]

This is the socket you need: Snapon STLE40 or anything similar

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=14958&group_ID=2358&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

I have this socket to do the distributor cap on the GM LT1

[CedarGrove]

That socket would certainly do it. I had the short version of that on hand but not the long one. I just chopped the ear off the switch with a chisel, removed the switch, then I could get my socket in there to remove the screw. Putting the new one back on, I just used a similar short phillips head screw.

It was a little confusing because I certainly had to do more than just pop the bottom cover and then take out 2 screws. I could do it again much quicker now that I know what's going on and what has to come out. Anyway...It's done, yet the fishbite problem continues.:mad:

Lewis

[TAG]

Very little help here, but mine did the fishbite thing for a long time then one day when it did it it threw a code for the crank position sensor. Replaced the sensor, still did it but didnt throw the code again. Had a feeling it could be internal to the ecm, bought a reman ecm & heaths hp4 program at same time. A long story, but the ecm is still sitting in my toolbox, the hp4 program is in, & have not felt a fishbite in ages. I highly doubt the chip had any thing to do with it, but frankly i completely forgot about it. I still would bet money the fishbite comes from the fuel solenoid sticking once in a while, but cant prove it. On the screw to the ignition switch, i think i used a pair of needle nose vise grips to remove it without removing the steering wheel. I do so much steering column work its hard to remember every application.

[simon]

That socket would certainly do it. I had the short version of that on hand but not the long one. I just chopped the ear off the switch with a chisel, removed the switch, then I could get my socket in there to remove the screw. Putting the new one back on, I just used a similar short phillips head screw.

It was a little confusing because I certainly had to do more than just pop the bottom cover and then take out 2 screws. I could do it again much quicker now that I know what's going on and what has to come out. Anyway...It's done, yet the fishbite problem continues.:mad:

LewisYou prob checked everything worth checking, but could you have a wire in the IP ,PMD circut or at the firewall plugins or grounds that is broke of inside the insulation but most times still making contact.

I had a similair gremlin on a grand am that did a hickup every now and then.
i traced the culprit on a PCM groundwire where it entered the loom in engine bay. By wriggeling and stretching every wire with engine running.
and yet that same wire tested good on continuity testing several times before.

[2000k35006.5]

I'm sure this is way to late to be of any help, but I just replaced the ignition switch in my 2000 K3500 SRW 6.5 TD. I removed the upper and lower covers, then for the upper left hand inverted torx head screw, I went to the hardware store and found a torx head cap screw that was about 2"-2 1/4" long and two nuts. Worked like a charm. It kind of helped that not much torque on screw.

[CedarGrove]

That's a good method.

Everyone can rest easy though. Fish quit biting after I tossed a rebuilt 5521 at it.

Can we close this thread?

Cheers,

Lewis