View Full Version : Front Wheel Bearing/Hub Failures
movemyrv
05-30-2008, 16:51
62K miles, gentle use, mostly on road, and I wiped out a driver's side hub unit. $500 bucks later (not happy!), all set.
As soon as I mentioned it around, right away everyone I know with a 2500 from 2003-2005, gas or diesel has been down the same road from 40k to 90k miles.
Is this a frequent problem as far as anyone knows? GM customer service, of course played dumb about the whole thing.
Myabe if there are enough of us in this boat, it will be the next thing GM sends a letter out about?
Mike
Mark Rinker
05-30-2008, 17:11
Hmmm...I have only one example for you to ponder: Our 2002 K2500HD, at about ~250K miles - was first to have front hubs replaced that I've owned.
We've operated eight GM 2500/3500 series trucks from 1998 to 2006 model years in last eight years, diesels and gassers, all have been equipped as plow trucks that get banged around into curbs. I've been amazed at how durable they have been, considering the use and abuse.
Maybe the difference is our trucks in MN and plow duty get used in 4WD alot...not just when snowplowing, we run in 4HI if snow on road is more than 1/4" at any speed, and even in heavy rains when towing.
Could your truck have been submerged and gotten water into the bearing?
movemyrv
05-30-2008, 19:43
Mark,
Two of the other trucks I mentioned are 2005s that do commercial construction and plowing. They got both sides replaced at around 40-50k on both trucks.
My only use that is stressful is trailer towing, which i do a fair amount of.
I don't have any reason to believe its ever been even close to being under water. I have put nearly every mile on it.
Maybe New England is just tough on these parts?!?!?!
I sure wouldn't complain at 250k!
Thanks,
Mike
Mark Rinker
05-30-2008, 20:50
Come to think of it, I didn't own the '02 until 130K...could have had a set before then...maybe I have just been lucky!!!
Turbo Al
06-02-2008, 14:47
Lucky too I guess BUT only got about 60,000 miles on it. A large portion is off road in four wheel drive, lots of towing (@ 6,000lbs) mud, water, snow and major bumps and hits most of the time with 1,000 lbs in the box, meduim size winch mounted (since new) on front.
The skid plates plastic and metal ones have been hit hard and at one point I ripped the rear shock and mount completely off. I have NOT had this one in the Pine river YET too much electic bs for that.
I am guessing I qualify for HD use LOL
AL
Not just GM. Ford, Dodge and Toyota also! Usually big $$$. Our shop has replace several in all models.
Hook_'em_Horns!
06-02-2008, 20:59
Yep, got me too, at less than 80k. 2wd and heavy towing,
I had the dealer do a complete brake job, replacing the parking brake and flushing the system.
A month later the ABS light started up with intermittent skidding detected on dry level pavement. Diagnosed as a failed Driver’s side hub bearing (Sealed, not serviceable).
Since it’s over $600 to replace and at such a low mileage, you can see why I questioned the validity of the problem. The top guy confirmed it, anywhere between 40k-100k will get you a failed bearing, and it’s usually the driver’s side.
One of the Drawbacks of ABS, it keeps you from wrecking but it comes back to haunt you later.
Gapper_ca
06-07-2008, 08:58
Replaced front passenger side @ 160 000 kms. damn sealed bearing setup. picked up a used one from a wrecker for $200.... so far so good had a strange vibration, thought that it was a u-joint going, checked them all good then happened to grab whell and had a little play, took of wheel then spun the hub, damn if the chatter did not show up then. find it hard to beleive that you con not press out the old bearing and put in a new one... another example of brillant engineering so that the dealer gets the repair work....
DmaxMaverick
06-07-2008, 11:08
The bearings can be replaced in the hub. Problem is, it probably isn't worth the attempt for the shade tree mechanic. They can be pressed out with an arbor press (not a small one) and the correct die. If you have a mill/lathe, you could fab a die. The bearings are about $20 ea. We (a friend and I) tried this a couple years ago. There was a degree of uncertainty remaining after, so we abandoned the idea. The tolerances are very close, for what it is, and a catastrophic failure would be, uh... catastrophic. Still, I don't understand why we don't have reman hubs available. This isn't a new part concept. They've been used by GM for over 20 years, with little change. There must be a reason for no reman's. Reliability/dependability, perhaps?
Turbo Al
06-07-2008, 18:46
Now you guys got me looking forward to when mine fails LOL. I gota say I have pressed in somewhere around 5,000 bearings. Also converted hundreds from non greaseable to geaseable -- it is the same bearing different part number the race will have a groove in the center and a hole in the middle of the groove. So pretty simple to drill and tap a grease fitting into most machines. I will let you know how it goes when I do mine -- could be a while though I am still driving the car untill my leg gets better -- so the truck has been parked beside the 93 for six months now.
Al
I also pulled the bearings out and was going to rebuild the hub. Never pursued buying the bearings as the races are part of the hub and not replaceable. Also the bearing that holds the ABS sensor ring might be hard to find.
Mark Rinker
06-08-2008, 20:56
You guys have me nervous, now! My 2006 does click and pop occasionally, not sure if I am hearing bearings, ujoints, or ball joints.
I was happier when I wasn't thinking about these things, 7 states away from home....
i have replaced the drivers side hub assembly twice on my 01.first time around 80k,and again at around 180k now it has a napa lifetime in it for $270.00 much cheaper than my dealer. so far so good 223k
CrashTestDummy
07-05-2008, 13:24
Being a late-model GM, I was kind of afraid of that sort of setup. This is a common issue with 4th Gen Fbods. The roadracers can eat a set up a year. Same setup, sealed, non-serviceable bearing hubs. I know of a couple of people who are trying to build serviceable units, but they're still in the testing phase.
I'm wondering if it may be something to grab as a spare and hide under the back seat for that rainy day? <$300 from NAPA would sure be better than >$400 from GM, or not obtainable until Monday, should you be towing out of town.
Gene Beaird,
'02 GMC 2500HD D/A
Pearland, Texas
BlackMaxAlly
07-09-2008, 19:59
Just replaced one today, passenger side though, 48K on the odometer, 2500, '05, 4x4. I wished I saw this thread, I'd have a few bucks left in my pocket. Just gave the stealership $600.00 to to do it, $500.00 for the part.
ronniejoe
07-10-2008, 08:51
This is interesting. My 95 Suburban has over 280,000 miles on the original front hubs. It's been worked pretty hard towing and off-road around the farm here.
I know that the design is a little different because the rotors on a 2001 are much easier to change than on my older gen vehicle.
SoTxPollock
07-11-2008, 10:13
The thing about it is Ronniejoe, your older vehicle probably didn't have Chineese bearings in it, the one that went our at 48k probably did.
An old Engineer friend of mine once told me the story about bearing designs and how certain American machinery was used to make Submarine bearings, this while he was working research at Lawrence Livermore Labaratories for the Navy, No one in the world could equal American bearings, it gave us a distinct advantage in silent running of the Subs. I suspect the same may still be true. I just chringe when I see made in China on any bearing I purchase now days, I will go a long way to find American made when it comes to bearings.
mikennola0515
11-18-2008, 09:29
I was notified by my local tire shop today when I went in for my free rotation that my driver's side front hub is shot and must be replaced. I'm no mechanic, but I politely told him that I'd be shopping this $500 repair around (estimate is for $487, $306 for the part). The service manager asked me if I'd noticed any vibration (I truthfully haven't). He showed me the play in the wheel (top-to-bottom) albeit with only 2 lugnuts tightened. Is this definitive proof?
This seems a bit premature as this truck is never used for its intended purpose (very little towing and never anything to really tax it) and has less than 65K on it. Usually just me and my laptop.
Any recommendations for this problem (I'm assuming the whole assembly will need to be replaced based on this forum), especially a reputable independent shop in the Dayton, OH area.
Thanks in advance.
Mike
I had a mechanic that is north of New Paris, OH charge less for the labor than what I paid for the wheel bearing assembly at Advance Auto parts. Let me know if you want contact information. Passenger side failed on mine about 15K ago. Just waiting for the drivers side to fail.
mikennola0515
11-18-2008, 10:10
New Paris is a bit far, but thanks.
Mike
just replaced drivers side,,112000, was $225.00 at local parts store, took about 1/2 hour to change, really simple!!
gophergunner
11-18-2008, 20:54
Just last weekend I noticed a bit of noise (almost a squeaking sound) when I was coasting to a stop. This noise was present even when I wasn't riding the brakes. At 135 000 km's maybe its already in need of some new bearings?:confused:
mikennola0515
11-19-2008, 06:18
just replaced drivers side,,112000, was $225.00 at local parts store, took about 1/2 hour to change, really simple!!
Was this the hub and bearing complete? This is about what I was quoted over the phone
it was the complete assembly..even with the sensor...
Mark Rinker
11-19-2008, 20:36
BTW - just 5 months after crowing on this thread about how we never have wheel bearing problems - I bought a 2006 K3500 SRW - with a bad driver's side wheel bearing! It had 57K, the previous owner replaced it.
DmaxMaverick
11-19-2008, 21:01
Sounds like you still haven't had a bearing problem.
mikennola0515
11-20-2008, 06:30
I realize I may have really opened myself up on this one, but the assembly I was quoted from the closest dealer was $336 vs $225 for an after-market part. The first couple of independents must have been quoting the GM part based on their parts/labor breakdown.
Given the commoditization of auto parts manufacturing, isn't it possible they could even be made by the same producer?
From the independent's shop's perspective, what's the benefit of using the GM part vs. an aftermarket?
Mike
DmaxMaverick
11-20-2008, 09:07
Keep an eye on the independent shops. If you are paying for an OEM part, make sure you are getting an OEM part. Often, they will charge at or near GM list, and install an aftermarket part. Not the case every time, but I've seen it too often.
You can negotiate with GM parts. I pay jobber price (the price an independent shop pays) for most parts I buy at the dealer, or I go to another dealer. Especially now, sales are down, and they need to move product to make money. Many of them realize making a little is better than none. I tell them so. The last bearing I bought was around $200-250 at GM (it's been a while). www.gmpartsdirect.com sells parts for about 60% of GM list. Their price is currently $161-246, depending on model.
I've replaced both front bearings on my 2001, at around 100K, about 6 months apart. I've replaced several of these over the years, and have never seen a catastrophic failure. They seem to always give enough warning, even when towing heavy. I don't think I would trust an aftermarket imported bearing.
BTW.....
These bearings only come in one flavor. A complete assembly, with the sensor attached. There may be a time when an aftermarket will sell it w/o the sensor, but the bearing will always be a complete assembly. After bearing replacement, keep at least the sensor. Your new sensor or harness may be damaged in the future. Replacement is simple, and GM doesn't sell the sensor w/o the bearing, the last I checked.
I have worked in a GM dealer and have friends who have or are working in a dealership. Dealers are good customers of local parts stores. Dealers use a lot of parts from local parts stores if their own parts dept is out or just does not stock a slow moveing part, alot of people would be surprised. So if you want OEM make sure the dealer is useing OEM. Now that said, if the part used is a warranty part it will be 99.9% of the time OEM, but if customer pay it could be from around the corner parts store.
We are a Delco shop and try to use Delco/GM parts whenever we can and specify ACDelco sometimes but other times just get us a quality part and get the customer done, he/she can't make money with their vehicle in the shop. bob.............
mattb5150
11-26-2008, 14:32
A friend of mine just had to replace the drivers side assembly on his wife's 2001 Yukon XL at just over 100k miles.
I just replaced my passenger side hub at 190,000 miles. So I think I got my money's worth out of it. :)
D.
Just last weekend I noticed a bit of noise (almost a squeaking sound) when I was coasting to a stop. This noise was present even when I wasn't riding the brakes. At 135 000 km's maybe its already in need of some new bearings?:confused:
gophergunner,
Did you find the source if the noise? I had the same squeaking kind of noise today that you described. It showed up after a 3 hour trip to gramma's house for thanksgiving. I jacked up the front end and checked the wheels for play but they seemed tight. I also didn't hear anything when spinning the wheels by hand... made it back home without any more symptoms. In the morning I'm going to put the truck on jackstands and run it in 4WD to see if I can find the source of the noise. I also did a quick look for any pump-rub leaks on the transfer case and didn't see anything.. Anyone have similar symptoms with a bearing failure?
DmaxMaverick
11-28-2008, 20:34
gophergunner,
Did you find the source if the noise? I had the same squeaking kind of noise today that you described. It showed up after a 3 hour trip to gramma's house for thanksgiving. I jacked up the front end and checked the wheels for play but they seemed tight. I also didn't hear anything when spinning the wheels by hand... made it back home without any more symptoms. In the morning I'm going to put the truck on jackstands and run it in 4WD to see if I can find the source of the noise. I also did a quick look for any pump-rub leaks on the transfer case and didn't see anything.. Anyone have similar symptoms with a bearing failure?
If it squeaks while rolling, and the bearings are tight, check these:
U-Joints
Tranny output yoke (seal may be dry, lube it)
CV joint boots. Use some silicone spray lube on them (not WD40). They May make noise when at certain angles.
Loose lug nuts
Worse.....
Just did a 2006, 3500 Dodge about 80,000 miles, front ball joints, carrier bearing and driveline u-joints, front axle pinion seal (leaking) and oil change. Had to remove front bearing/spindle for ball joints.
WOW, one bearing already previously replaced, the other would not come out. Torched the ball joints and used press to remove bearing from spindle. Bearing OK. Ball joints very loose, u-joints locked tight on one cross each joint, carrier brg because customer wanted new carrier. Dodge driveline --- PIA. Front bearings usually not easy on Dodge. Pushing big $$$.
Not just GM or even Ford and Dodge.
Toyota V8 Tundra. Head gasket leaks. Head bolts pulling threads out of blocks!!! $500 kit being marketed to repair Toy and Honda blocks, head bolt holes!!!
DM, Bob,
Thanks for the suggestions.. On the trip home today there was no bearing howl type noises and the squeaking was gone at low speeds. I'm thinking it may be the Tranny output yoke or possibly u-joints.. I've been getting a clunk for a while when backing in to the garage after a long run and assumed the yoke needed some grease .. hopefully that's all it is but I'm going to give a good check tomorrow ..
just changed out front wheel bearings. was getting a noise, like a stone that gets caught in the tread. the noise comes and goes now. cv joint maybe???
I took a closer look at mine yesterday .. started by jacking up and spinning one rear wheel by hand with the tranny in nuetral .. drive shaft turned with no noises .. u joints seemed tight. Step 2. .. put the truck on jack stands and spun the front wheels at full left to right extremes .. I did notice a slight rubbing sound from the CV boots but not loud enough to hear when the truck is running.. sprayed them with Silicone and it went away. Step 3. Started up in drive with 4WD ... no noises with all 4 wheels turning.. Step 4. Pulled the front wheels and rotated each hub by hand while listening carefully ... found a muffled squeak on the passenger side which seemed to come from the hub .. put the wheels back on and took a ride around the block with the windows down and it squeaks loud when turning and is slightly noticeable going straight. I guess the next step will be to replace the wheel bearing/hub assy.
gophergunner
12-01-2008, 19:27
I haven't been paying too much attention to mine lately. I haven't checked out the noise yet, but maybe next weekend when I change oil I shall have a look around at all of the previously mentioned spots.
I did pick up a hub assembly at NAPA today......for a good ol' $460:(.......but its one of those things I will even be able to change on the side of the road if I had to, as long as I have it with me.
What would happen when the bearings really do fly apart in the hub? Would I lose a tire and go skidding down the highway on the frame of the truck? Or would I get some severe wobbling and pulling to one side or another before a tire flew off?
DmaxMaverick
12-01-2008, 19:36
I've never heard of one flying apart, or any type of catastrophic failure. They give plenty of warning. The design of the hub prevents it from just coming off. It will sit down and grind on itself long before separating. You'll know it by then.
gophergunner
12-01-2008, 19:42
I've never heard of one flying apart, or any type of catastrophic failure. They give plenty of warning. The design of the hub prevents it from just coming off. It will sit down and grind on itself long before separating. You'll know it by then.
Good to know. Thanks!!!
I changed out the passenger side front hub-bearing assy today on my 03 and the squeak is gone.. fairly simple repair .. After reading that the caliper bracket bolts could be a problem I picked up a heavy duty 24" breaker bar and had the oxy-acetylene torch ready ... Using just the 24" breaker bar with a 6-point socket , both the caliper bracket bolts and hub mounting bolts came off with no problem (no heat needed).. If anyone is looking for replacement hubs I found a good price on USA made Timken SP580310 hubs at www.dmaxstore.com (https://www.dmaxstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=62&products_id=91&zenid=0de6489260b3fb7bfaa491ab32be80f3) .. bought two at $179 each including shipping .. the price has increased a little since I bought mine but still a good value IMHO .. Autozone lists TIMKENs for over $300 each .. TIMKEN is also the OEM for the GM labeled parts ..
gophergunner
01-11-2009, 17:26
Well the time has finally come. My truck was getting some vibrations and a bit of noise from the front end for the last couple weeks. It came time to do an oil change so I figured I'd check the hubs while I had the truck inside. Of course the driver's side was a bit loose and the passenger side was nice and tight.
So I changed it out......seems to ride like new without the noise and vibrations from before.
143 008 km's on that front wheel hub.
BlackMaxAlly
01-23-2009, 18:16
Well, my Passenger side went bad at 59,000 miles, and the stealership here in Central PA., charged me 700 clams! I needed the truck fixed, and should have consulted this forum, because I just did it myself on the drivers side for a whole lot less! It has 66,000 miles and the drivers side went bad. I got talked into buying a rotor as well, a bit over 400 bucks for both. I might just keep it as a spare. Those pads look like they have very little wear on them though. Gotta love the tow button for going down hills, some say they last past 90,000 miles.
Now, if they could only build better bearings, or at least have a way of rebuilding them!
I do have extra weight since I replaced that tin foil front bumper with a beefy Ranch Hand REAL bumper which probably tips the scales at < 250 lbs.
If you have ever replaced front brake pads on any vehicle it's only 3 steps more, and you are done with the job. Just follow what this fine gentleman provided for us at his link ...
http://www.mcratracing.com/wheel_bearing.html You'll be glad you did!
I just replaced my drivers side bearing and ball joints at 59,500 mi on my '03 HD. I used a GM bearing (I can get it at my cousin's cost) and Moog ball joints. The ball joints were tight but the boots were split. I figured while it was appart. Not that difficult as long as you have the right tools (but it was a little costly).
Well I had the thumping vibration in front right wheel, jacked it up and sure was loose...not too bad...ordered two from dmaxstore.com at $229.00 each with no shipping charge. Delivered within a week, and first warm day I installed both in 4 hours. (2.5 on first and 1.5 on second) I can do it faster now that I know all the little things to do.
Jack up both wheels off floor.
A good breaker bar is the handle to the floor jack.
Use RED LockTite on Caliper mounting bolts on installation.
4WD...remove one wheel at a time; put in 4WD to remove (36mm) axle bolt. I had to wedge a piece of wood between the tire and floor too keep the wheel fron turning while removing the axle nut fom the opposite side.
Be Careful removing dust covers from hub.
Turn wheels to make access easier for calliper mounting bolts.
BE sure to install rotor dust shield in the proper direction! Not just facing forward but flaired side turned outward...Trust me I KNOW NOW...cost = extratime...:eek:
Not a bad job...easier than I expected...but save a boat load of money...
Have any of you seen a bearing go bad and just make noise, but not allow 'slop' in the front tires? I have had a strange noise from the front end for a while (10k+ miles). It's definately vehicle speed dependant. Doesn't matter if in 2wd or 4wd lock or on the brakes or off the brakes or on dirt or on pavement or on snow or straight or turning (although it might be a touch worse on a gradual left turn) and it did it with my old tires and now my new tires (different rims, too!) and I've done front brakes in that timeframe with no change. Also done T-case fluid and front diff fluid recently with no change (and old fluid looked good). It's a low pitched Wahh wahh wahh that you can hear and feel. Truck has roughly 100k on it. (2003 2500HD D/A CCSB)
I've checked the bearings by jacking the truck up and pulling on top and bottom of the tire and found no slop. I've seen frapped bearings before on other vehicles and this one doesn't feel or sound like what I've experienced, but I can't figure out what the noise is. I've had it for quite a while and it hasn't really gotten worse, but it's getting on my nerves more now. Bearings are too expensive to just replace 'em.
Thoughts?
Have any of you seen a bearing go bad and just make noise, but not allow 'slop' in the front tires? I have had a strange noise from the front end for a while (10k+ miles). It's definately vehicle speed dependant. ... It's a low pitched Wahh wahh wahh that you can hear and feel. Truck has roughly 100k on it. (2003 2500HD D/A CCSB)
I've checked the bearings by jacking the truck up and pulling on top and bottom of the tire and found no slop.
Mine had no slop when they went bad, just noisy .. It started with a low frequency howl when slowing down on an exit ramp after a long run on the expressway.. It then developed into a squeaking noise that was most noticeable on slow turns... Seeing that you have a 100Kmi on your truck bearings would be a likely suspect.
Mine had no slop when they went bad, just noisy .. It started with a low frequency howl when slowing down on an exit ramp after a long run on the expressway.. It then developed into a squeaking noise that was most noticeable on slow turns... Seeing that you have a 100Kmi on your truck bearings would be a likely suspect.
Scrap my previous comments. After I posted, I went out to run some errands and jacked up the truck when I got back to see if I could detect bad wheel movement. Left front wheel bearing is the culprit. Dunno if it needed to be warmer to show some movement or not (last time I checked was in Feb when it was cold out), but needless to say, I think I've found the smokin' gun. Guess I have me a little project for tomorrow PM.
Thanks for the response anyway.
We see bearings all the time noisy but not particularly loose and bearings that sometimes are loose and not noisy, goes both ways. The only constant is if given enough time/wear bearings will be loose. Of course loose bearings are almost always easier to find, though sometimes noise helps a lot. bob................
Well, the good news is that when I replaced the left front wheel bearing, it only took about an hour (after I found the rotton 36mm socket for the half-shaft nut on my work bench, which suffers from "horizontal surface syndrome")
The other good news is that the loose bearing on the left front is taken care of and is now nice. The bad news is that the noise is still there. I'm not ready to swallow another $250 to do the right side when it's not loose and I can't prove it's the source of the noise. Grrrrrrrrrrrr!
I will probably wait a few weeks and just plan to do it before I hook up the 5W for the first real trip this spring/summer.
hapaschold
04-17-2009, 17:04
had mine 3500 in few weeks ago, wanted to get a few things done before 3 year/36000 ends may 5th..
had looseness in front end for last 2 year... and 1 st trip they replaced steering something ?
this trip was the drivers hub, they claimed passenger hub was ok, but i still get the loose feeling in steering and little noise from passenger side.
also had tranny cooler lines replaced and the tsb done for the leak around the blue turbo hose.
dealer had problem lifting truck up...i weigh in at about 8600lbs total.
gotta get this addressed before 3 year part run s out.
Well, the good news is that when I replaced the left front wheel bearing, it only took about an hour (after I found the rotton 36mm socket for the half-shaft nut on my work bench, which suffers from "horizontal surface syndrome")
The other good news is that the loose bearing on the left front is taken care of and is now nice. The bad news is that the noise is still there. I'm not ready to swallow another $250 to do the right side when it's not loose and I can't prove it's the source of the noise. Grrrrrrrrrrrr!
I will probably wait a few weeks and just plan to do it before I hook up the 5W for the first real trip this spring/summer.
Well, my plan changed after I posted the above. I had the dreaded rust under the wheel speed sensor causing the ABS to dump brake pressure to one wheel at 5mph. I figured it should be semi-easy to remove the sensor, clean things up and replace the sensor. Yea right....
I removed the sensor from the right front...well, most of it. Part of it broke in the hole and I spend half an hour getting it out. Then I cleaned up the surface nice, pulled the sensor from the hub I replaced earlier in the week. Best I can tell, I busted that one removing it too (not my day), so off to the parts store I go to buy another hub. I didn't feel too bad as I suspected that it was the cause of the noise that I'd been chasing and it was only a matter of time before I swapped that hub anyway. Well, now both hubs are swapped. I also did a tire rotation while I was at it. Brakes work like they're supposed to, but I still have the noise.
Whatever....At least the brakes work and I know the noise isn't a wheel bearing. Since I can't for the life of me figure out what else would cause the noise, it must not be a problem, right? :-D
mattb5150
04-26-2009, 10:24
Did any of you guys notice specific tire wear issues due to the bearing failures?
My wife's Suburban is cupping the drivers front tire even after new Bilstein's and an alignment.
Matt
Yes, a bad bearing may allow the wheel camber to change enough to wear the inside or outside edge of the tire. However the alignment shop would normally have caught the bad bearing if you are talking recently on the alignment. I have seen bearings that had no loose movement but made noise; in the early stages of going south, therefore the alignment shop would not have seen a loose condition. Cupping probably would not, but could happen due to loose bearings. bob.................
More Power
05-22-2015, 11:29
Resurrecting an old thread....
I've noticed a noise and a slight vibration in the steering wheel for a while now. To eliminate some possibilities, I rotated the tires this past weekend. The somewhat aggressive tires had worn in ways that made them more noisy.
Rotating the tires helped with tire noise, but not with what I believe is due to a bad passenger side wheel hub bearing.
I came to that conclusion because taking a slight right-hand corner at anything over about 30-mph will unload the passenger side of the truck just a little, which eliminates all of the suspect noise and the vibration (feels like you're driving over some gravel spilled onto the highway) in the steering wheel.
I'll be replacing the passenger side hub bearing assy next week.
Thanks to everyone who posted in this thread.
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