D-TECH Mounting question

[JFerg65]

I'm ready to mount my spare PMD on a new cooler. In the D-Tech box with the unit was a gasket they said to mount under it. Is this for mounting to the IP?

I thought you mounted the unit directly to the aluminum cooler with the heat sink compound.


Just looking for some clarification

Thanks

[More Power]

The unit was designed to mount to the injection pump, but they also offer/produce a small heat sink for remote mounting.

Personally, I'd use one of the better remote coolers and extension harnesses, and would use whatever DTech recommends for a gasket, heat transfer pad, or whatever.

Mount it where it's easy to get to and it receives a good flow of outside air.

Jim

[Robyn]

I have my Dtech mounted on a remote cooler using the gasket provided by Dtech.

The better/Bigger the heat sink (within reason) the more heat that it will soak up and remove from the unit.

Just be sure that whatever heat sink you use that its FLAT. I have seen some heat sinks that were not flat.
This will effect the ability of the unit to contact the aluminum surface and the excessive stress placed on the unit to get it bolted down tight could damage the internal components.

A quick check with a straight edge across the heat sink going on the X and Ym as well as diagnonal to make sure its flat.

Some offerings are just raw finned heat sink stock that is cut to length and drilled and tapped to allow attachment of the PMD.

Just a heads up.

The units that supporting vendors sell are all good stuff.

Best

Robyn

[JFerg65]

Thanks for the info.

I seemed to have for once, "lucked out" in regard to timing of things. I ordered my cooler and D-Tech as a spare to carry. My 96 Suburban currently has a remotely relocated PMD and cooler, but had no idea how old the thing was. It has 149,000 on the clock

I got my PMD in the mail the day before mine crapped out on me. Initially I thought I had run her out of fuel. It was 11:00 at night, but again had some luck on my side. Thankfully I got a restart and made it to the top of my development, before it crapped out again. This time I had gravity in my favor and coasted to within 300 feet of my driveway. Got one more restart, got it into my driveway where it finally died. I towed it the last 50 feet with my jeep. So the next morning, I picked up a diesel can and put in 4 gallons. I ran a couple of miles to my parents and all seemed good with the world. On my way home, it crapped out again. So I climbed out and bled it and it fired right up for about 1 minute, before crapping out again. Luckily, I had the new PMD sitting on my passenger seat. I unhooked the old, hooked up the new set it on my fender well and she fired right up and home I went. Later that day, I held my breath and headed out to put on some more fuel. I made it home it home with no issues, but did decide to put in a new fuel filter, and re-bleed.

By this time I had now mounted the new cooler and PMD and strung the new harness. I tried one last time with the old PMD, and it ran for about 2 minutes and died. I made the switch over to the new PMD and I was back in business.

I headed back to top off the tank to see if I had really run out of fuel in the first place..... Nope... I had a good 7 gallons left in the tank.

So a long story short... Always carry a spare PMD. Now I have to turn around and pick up another spare!!!

If it had not have been for this site, I would have been screwed!!! I can't begin to tell you how much time and money everybody has saved me over just the last year!!

Thanks Everybody

Jeff

[rustyk]

Just be sure that whatever heat sink you use that its FLAT. I have seen some heat sinks that were not flat.
This will effect the ability of the unit to contact the aluminum surface and the excessive stress placed on the unit to get it bolted down tight could damage the internal components.

The heatsink can be lapped using 300-400 then 800 sandpaper on a flat piece of glass. It doesn't have to be glossy, just flat. Then pick up some thermal paste (a/k/a "heatsink compound") at Radio Shack. Just a dab will do it. Then you don't have to mash the two together.

[Stratosurfer]

I have my Dtech mounted on a remote cooler using the gasket provided by Dtech.

Robyn,
Is the gasket a heat tranferring gasket? I just got mine in the mail and figured I'd clamp it to the cooler w/thermal compound as the Stanadyne units.
Would there be any issues in using thermal compound rather than the gasket?
Would there be any issues in using thermal compound -and- the gasket.
I suppose doing it the way D-Tech says is reasonable, but with all the heat issues we've all had with the original unit, and living down here in Texas where it gets fairly hot...
The last heat spell in early August toasted my last Stanadyne PMD so I lean toward trying to keep this component cool.

[Robyn]

The heat transfer compound will work sweet.

I have done it both ways. The last time I had to mount one I had a small tube of white paste for a Pentium 4 in my drawer so I used it. :)

Best

RC

[Stratosurfer]

The heat transfer compound will work sweet.

I have done it both ways. The last time I had to mount one I had a small tube of white paste for a Pentium 4 in my drawer so I used it. :)
RC

Did you use the gasket also? (Gasket PLUS Thermal compound?)
I can't understand why I shouldn't use only thermal compound, that is w/o the gasket.
Thanks

[JFerg65]

When I got my D - Tech unit, it came with a cooler. It had the paste with it, so I just used it and not the heat transfer gasket. I figured, if the heat sink paste wasn't working, I would just clean up the PMD and slap the gasket under it.

So far no problems with just the paste.