Looking for more answers....

[Shed]

Have a few more questions, Thanks again to all who have any advice....

1. Front shocks, can I replace them in my driveway by myself? I did the rears with Bilstiens before our last big camping trip and it was simple!!!! Looks like I can get to all the bolts, just don't want to take one out and have the front end "fall down" on me!

2. Developed a metal on metal slap from the rear end while on the big trip. Found the source to be a missing "bushing" or rubber piece in the leaf spring pack. It is just between the bottom leaf and the 2nd up leaf. Dealer says you have to replace the whole pack???? $317 per side. Have no problems with the leaf packs that I can see or feel while driving. Anyone know about leaf packs and if I can find these bushings. I think I can get the bushing in if I could find one.

3. When the Magnaflow exhaust was installed it runs up against my tranny line, the "out" flow pipe. I am concerned that this is raising my tranny temp via heat transfer from the exhaust. There is very little distance if any at all between the two pipes. Is there a tape I can apply to reduce heat transfer to the tranny line? If so does the tape go on the heat producer (exhaust) or the heat conductor (tranny line)? Does anyone else have a similar problem? What about "denting" the exhaust pipe in and away from the tranny line? Any distance would be better than it is now, but what will that do to the 4" exhaust? Wish I would have known more about this stuff before I messed with it!!!

Sorry for the long post, any and all help is much appriciated!!!!
Shed

[DmaxMaverick]

1. Front shocks are easy. Follow the instructions, and don't overtighten the top nut. The rubber bushing should compress between 10 and 20% as soon as the slack is taken up. Too much, and they will not last as long. Too little, and you'll develop a clunk in the front end on rough roads.

2. Not uncommon, and you have a couple options (neither one is the dealer's $317 offer). The insulators are 2 pieces, and sold as such, and aren't cheap (but a looooong way from your dealer's solution). Contact gmpartsdirect.com for replacements (I don't remember the part #'s, but they're posted here somewhere). Another option is to get the 1/2 ton insulators. They are square blocks that are driven onto the end of the O/L spring. They don't fit exactly, but work, and are a little cheaper. From what I've heard, they last longer, but I haven't tried them. If you tow heavy loads, the OEM round insulators will find a way to leave you. I stopped replacing mine when the warranty ran out. Couldn't justify the cost vs. the noise. They still slap, but I rarely hear them anymore. One thing I've thought of, but never tried, is to tether the disc part of the insulators somehow. That way, when the stud shears (and it will at some point), you don't lose the rubber disc part (which happens to be the most expensive part). Perhaps a small cable (like on trailer break-away switches) in a hole near the edge. Some imagination may be required with this one.

3. There should be sufficient clearance. Don't know why there isn't. I'd suggest wrapping both in that area, as long as you can and retain an air space between them (direct contact would be a very bad idea). Do not dent your pipe. That defeats the purpose of a large, mandrel bent system. You can get exhaust wrap in various sizes from your local speed shop, Summit, Jegs, etc.

[Mark Rinker]

Have a few more questions, Thanks again to all who have any advice....

1. Front shocks, can I replace them in my driveway by myself? I did the rears with Bilstiens before our last big camping trip and it was simple!!!! Looks like I can get to all the bolts, just don't want to take one out and have the front end "fall down" on me!

On a level surface with truck in P and ebrake set, using a floor jack and two jack stands of proper capacity, raise front of truck high enough to allow front wheels to hang with enough clearance to get floor jack underneath them. Using jack stands to support truck frame at this height - and once secure, remove floor jack. Then, use floor jack to lift each tire and provide support/adjustibility as you remove and replace each shock absorber.

2. Developed a metal on metal slap from the rear end while on the big trip. Found the source to be a missing "bushing" or rubber piece in the leaf spring pack. It is just between the bottom leaf and the 2nd up leaf. Dealer says you have to replace the whole pack???? $317 per side. Have no problems with the leaf packs that I can see or feel while driving. Anyone know about leaf packs and if I can find these bushings. I think I can get the bushing in if I could find one.

Turn up the radio louder. :)

3. When the Magnaflow exhaust was installed it runs up against my tranny line, the "out" flow pipe. I am concerned that this is raising my tranny temp via heat transfer from the exhaust. There is very little distance if any at all between the two pipes. Is there a tape I can apply to reduce heat transfer to the tranny line? If so does the tape go on the heat producer (exhaust) or the heat conductor (tranny line)? Does anyone else have a similar problem? What about "denting" the exhaust pipe in and away from the tranny line? Any distance would be better than it is now, but what will that do to the 4" exhaust? Wish I would have known more about this stuff before I messed with it!!!

If you use header wrap, it should be wrapped on the exhaust. Can the line be bent or moved slightly?


Sorry for the long post, any and all help is much appriciated!!!!
Shed


Here are my random thoughts...for what they are worth...

[Shed]

Mav, Thanks! I figured there really was no problem, the sound just irritates me! I will see what I can find!

Mark, I know that there is direct contact. If I wrap the exhaust do you think this will help? I tried to do a flush of the tranny fluid and could not move the "out" or top line at all. What is the consensus of "bending" the tranny line? Ok to do or possibly mess up the tranny? I may call the shop and see what they say, it was put on 2 yrs or so ago and they may say "too bad". Before the big trip I put on a big pan and filled with synthetic and really did not notice a reduction in temps while pulling, maybe this is the culprit?

Shed

[DmaxMaverick]

You could bend the lines. That's what I'd do, after putting some thought into it. The heat wrap may still be a good idea, after bending. However, the fitting at the trans needs to line up correctly, or it will fail after a time. It is O-ring sealed, and loosely in place. Don't try to bend it with the line connected at the tranny, and use the correct size tubing bender.