How do I install instrument cluster?

[flomulgator]

Like the title says. I removed it months ago, don't remember it being particularly hard. It is a 1991 Suburban V1500. No matter what I do I can't get it to go back in it's hole. Its just too big as far as I can see, but that wouldn't make any sense now would it?

[DennisG01]

I'm not familiar with the '91, but some thoughts: Did you maybe reinstall something "out of order"? Like a trim piece that should have gone back in after the cluster?

Is it just not seating all the way in? If that's the case, then there's some wires in the way.

[flomulgator]

No its just a metal hole in the dash that the plastic instrument tub won't fit into. It's supposed to go down in the hole in the frame, but I just can't get it there. I redid about half the wiring (melted out, another story), but that is tucked up out of the way and the pinch point is the metal frame itself. I'm wondering if there is some "stick it in then pull back out with a twist" kind of shenningans I'm missing.

Or maybe my truck just shrank :confused:

[DmaxMaverick]

Does it have tilt wheel? If so, it needs to be all the way down. If it's still too tight, loosen the steering column (2 bolts clamp the column at the steel crossbar). The column will pull down enough to give you a couple inches extra clearance. Also, make sure all trim/bezels around the IPC have been removed. It's a tight fit, but it will fit.

[flomulgator]

All the trim stuff is forward of the plastic bathtub that is the IPC. The pinch point is currently over on the left side; the steering wheel column does not currently appear to be interfering. I will try that trick anyways. Removing the gear selector/indicator provides a little extra room.

The metal does appear to have a rolled lip that is not completely rolled. I don't think i bent the roll out (reducing hole width) but it is a possibility.

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

[flomulgator]

I figured it out. The lower left side goes behind the metal rim, which is not inherently obvious when looking at the cluster. Then it fits with only a minimal amount of manhandling. Having the lens and reflecting shield off help the IPC flex more too. Hope that helps anyone else who reads this!

[DennisG01]

Good to hear you figured it out. :)

I know what it's like to try to put something back together again a few days later - let alone a few months! I've now started to get in the habit of snapping a few digital pics, even joting down a few simple notes. It really helps.

Probably wouldn't have helped in your case - the cluster probably came out easy and then had you thinking "it came out easy, why won't it go back in easy!!!" Been there, done that, too. It can be really frustrating.

[Robyn]

Many of these clusters get broken during remove/install excercises.
This happens a lot after the plastic has been cooked in the heat for many years.

Care and patience is the key with these little critters.

Best

Robyn

[flomulgator]

I cannot agree with you more. I only took about half as many pictures as I needed during the engine swap and for some reason when I went wire hunting I didn't grab my camera. Stupid Stupid and STUPID! Especially considering how bad the Chilton and Haynes manuals were that I was going off of.

[Robyn]

The Chilton and other manuals are pretty well lacking when it comes to the model specific stuff.

The stuff like Pistons, cranks, bearings, gears etc is good but the other stuff is usually a general description if your lucky.
Even the GM manuals can be somewhat lacking. (remove screws, lift instrument cluster out) :rolleyes:

They never tell you that a slight tweek to the right of left and roll the panel slightly aft before lifting, ya know. Snap crunch :eek:

The late stuff (95 and later) are a snap. Just snap off the bezel, remove 4 scews and lift the panel out of its bucket.

Cant beat experience for sure.
My cardinal rule is this, if its plastic and it does not wnat to come out, ask first before it breaks. :)

Robyn