Improving towing ability

[Greaser]

I have a few basic questions. I own a 1995 k2500 suburban w 283k on it, 4.10 gears. We are looking to purchase a pull behind camper next year sometime. I live in a heavy mountainous area andd would like to improve the way the truck pulls and stops:) I purchased a package from a supplier and the chip never did anything for my truck but I did install the PMD isolator kit, turbomaster, high outut fuel pump, high output inj ( I think they were the 300hp inj.) It was all purchaseed in a kit, the chip never worked so it is not in the truck. Also I have the fan clutch and fan upgrade from Kennedy on there. What can I do to improve the hauling ability? And how well do these burbans tow, will I get alot of sway as other vehicles pass or are they pretty stable? Thanks

[a5150nut]

Greaser,

When I put a chip in my truck there wasn't a real seat of the pants improvement. Where I saw the difference was in more low end torque. It would pull from lower in the rpm range.

Making one of these 6.5s work is making it breath better. Cool air to the intake and open the exhaust. They aren't like a gas motor with quick horsepower, but steady pulling and longevity.

[Greaser]

When the chip didn't work, I actually saw a drop in mpg both empty and pulling with the chip and no real difference in power, they said it was because my cat was most likely plugged. I ran a 4' straight exhaust. As for the intake I was planning to order a amsoil nanofilter, they are supposed to be better than the K&N. Thanks for the info. What kind of chip did you run?

[a5150nut]

Been so long ago that I put it in I don't recall. It is an RV rated, not competition chip. 3/4 grind I guess. Talk to Kennedy, he can spec just whay you want.

[Mark Rinker]

Here is a small detail, but one that makes its way onto every MRE work truck...no affect on empty ride, helps when you have lots of pin weight from a trailer.

http://www.timbren.com/


My Kennedy 6.5L tune made a huge difference in performance - very noticeable power increase - with same mileage. Did you add more boost to burn the extra fuel?

[Greaser]

I did not get the chip from Kennedy, I have been hesitant to buy another one just because of the last headache. I did increase boost, I set up the turbo master just as they told me to, no real improvement. I took it to a buddies shop and had him check the timing and anything else, he said it all looked good. Thanks for the site info.

[Hubert]

At 283K miles or KM's what about injectors, timing chain, lift pump health, tansmission etc. If lift pump is weak then the chip and new injection pump won't deliver thier potential.

The first few add ons seem to make the most difference ie exhaust and TM. Then chip or program. That's all the easy stuff and best bang for the buck. After that it takes a total systematic approach to build more power. The next biggest is either intercooler or better turbo. But its a long conversation and every little bit helps but nothing is going to turn the 6.5 into a modded Duramax or Cummins. Optimal timing, fuel additive, feeding the beast mod, propane, water injection your wallet is the limit. What are your expectations? And you have to watch temps closely and understand your systematic build inside and out and how it affects the limitations of the IDI 6.5.

How much are you willing to spend?

A little over my head but for brakes the usual comments are ...make sure rears are adjusted correctly, then powerslot rotors for front and quality pads, some hi pressure braided lines at the flexible lines. I have read there are some slightly bigger wheel cylinders for the rear. Prodigy or good quality trailer brake control and good trailer brakes. Torque converter lock up controller for help with compression braking.

Fill out your signature and read some others builds Ronnie joe ie school craft, Kennedy, Heath all know thier stuff as well as others.

[Edahall]

For sway control, you might consider the following:

http://www.pullrite.com/pullrite.htm

[DickWells]

Greaser: I've been off here most of the time for a couple of weeks. Hope you read this.
I towed about 90K miles with my 95 Suburban, and here is a sort of long-winded breakdown of the things I did to the 6.5 and the results.
Over time, starting at 65+K, I added a deep aluminum pan, a Mag-Hi-Tek diff cover, 3.5" Banks EX, Banks chip, K&N filter, RayCor fuel filter, B&M Tourque Lock, Phazer timing gears,home-made FSD wireing and Kennedy heat sink, Kennedy boost fooler, HD oil cooler lines, 97+ dual crossover T-stats, guages (3) GV ex brake and large SpearCo IC. Later, about 4 years ago, I changed to a brand new mechanical IP.
The Banks chip was probably the least effective power booster of all. Should have used Kennedy's.
Best bang for the buck, other than the mechanical pump,(which was expensive), had to be the Phazer gears. Solider, crisper feel, right from first start-up.
Oh, I added Firestone bags to the back. Great results.
My gears are 3.42s. Couldn't ask for anything better. Think if I had 4.10s, I'd just go for bigger tires and re-cal the speedo.
Used Michelens, with great success. 265-75s, LR-E.
Always used Baldwin filters. One Baldwin is worth 3 Frams!
Always used Castrol Syntek blend when I could get it. Still would, if I could.
Never had a heating problem with the transmission. My Sub has a huge factory cooler. Usually ran 170 or under.
Never had a brake problem, but I'm easy on brakes. I think my habit of refusing to tailgate keeps me off the middle pedal a lot. Always torqued my lugs in steps. I have the same rotors on there now that I put on at 90K. It has 186K on it now, with smooooth brakes.
I used a Reese Dual Cam hitch from the start. Highly reccommend it!
Our trailer was light to start with. 5500 lbs. For 3-4 years, though, I towed the same trailer weighing 7200 lbs, because I lengthened the tongue and put my big ole Bombardier Traxter on there. Brought the tongue weight up to 1420 lbs! Never a problem. The added tongue length made it handle that much better. I changed the dual cam torsion bars from 600 to 1200 lbs, though.
Had a lot of experience with that rig, most of it good. I still love the thing. Can't bring myself to part with it, even though I do like my GMC-DM.
FSD's and bad grounds can drive you nuts with a 6.5, but I have to admit that the thing never left me stranded on the road.
Your milleage is the only issue that would concern me, but if you aren't using a lot of oil, and your engine sounds and feels solid, with good, crisp start-ups, then I would think you'd get a lot of good miles out of it.
Good luck and keep in touch, you'll get nothing but good out of the Diesel Page.
Dick Wells:)

[DennisG01]

And how well do these burbans tow, will I get alot of sway as other vehicles pass or are they pretty stable? Thanks

I'm pulling a 10,000lb boat with mine and am very happy with the control. Yes, I'll feel it a tad bit when a truck roars by (although that don't happen all that often!), but it is never anywhere even close to scary. It's just one of those things that you notice. In fact, when I'm on a road with no one else around, I've even made some increasingly hard jerks of the wheel just to see how it handles and it does fine. The boat comes comes right back behind me.

[aloharovers]

For sway control, you might consider the following:

http://www.pullrite.com/pullrite.htm

How many folks have used this before?

Does it require any modification to the trailer tongue?

If you can rebuild an engine can you install this on your own?

thx

[DickWells]

I would think that the Tow Rite would be expensive. How much is it, anyway? Haven't met anyone that had one, but saw a home made one, once, out in NM. I wouldn't have dared to tow across town with the thing! Bet Tow Rite would have flipped if they had seen it. If the real thing wasn't at least 4X as rugged, I wouldn't touch it.
A dual cam hitch will cost you something like $700 today, and worth every penny. It works with a regular adjustable ball mount, and does everything that a weight-distribution hitch does, PLUS it controls sway better than anything but a Hensley. I once had an F-150 go by me with a very light 5th wheeler on it, and he lost it just as he got in front of me. That thing was all over the road, and bucking like a wild horse. The guy fought it down, finally, and slowed down and I went on by. The Burb didn''t even flinch when I braked hard for him and kept out of his way. There was a lot of cross wind on I-88 in up-state NY. There was one instance where the dual cam was better handling than a fifth wheel. The guy just plan had too much trailer for his horse!
I now tow with a Hensley that I got off E Bay last Spring, and it works fine, after you finally get it adjusted, but I'm still not convinced that it's a great improvement over a dual cam. Remember, a dual cam doesn't have chains to transfer weight forward. It has two very strong bars with cams to hold your torsion bars as levers to keep the tongue from swaying back and forth. No shock absorbers to hook up, no steel dampers to loosen before you can back up in a sharp turn, just a big clunk as the bar shoes hop over the cams in a tight turn. I E, just what you want from your hitch, -----control.:)
Dick Wells