Headlights

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

So recently, got all my aftermarket marker lights to work. The switch is being funny. When towing the trailer, with all lights on, it will start clicking, (like a realy), and then the high beams will cut out, and go to driving lights. If I flick off the highbeams, I can run the regular lights for a while, and then those to click and go off, leaving me with the driving lights.
Is there a relay for the headlights? Or if not, is it easy to put on in? I have had the switch apart before. If all the power for the lights is being drawn off the one pin, then I think I need to do some modifications.

[DmaxMaverick]

If you have a bunch of aftermarket lamps powered by the OEM headlamp switch, it's the circuit breaker tripping. Next will be the fusible link, then no lamps. Install a relay on the circuit to run your aftermarket (and OEM lamps for better performance), and you should not have the problem. The OEM switch is taxed to the max as it is with no aftermarket lamps.

[Robyn]

I had this happen a number of years ago with a rig I owned.

Same scenario exactly.

I used the main feed from the switch to run a contant duty HD relay that was connected directly to the battery with a suitable fuse on the feed line.

The light switch then runs a very low draw relay.

I had installed many more lights including a set of 4 H4 high output head lamps.

Easy fix.

Best

Robyn

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

OK, so I finally got into this.
Canadian trucks, ( I don't know if American trucks) have three headlight settings. When the e-brake is popped up, the high beam bulbs are activated very dimly. Then there is the regular driving lights activated by the switch. Finally are the hi-beams activated by the stalk.
I put relays in on the hi and lo beam wires. I was hoping to be able to switch on all four when I turn on the high beams. I can get it to work so that the four lights will come on when the hi beam activates. But then either the lo beams won't work, or the hi-beams won't turn off. Is there a switch or a relay somewhere that has to be bypassed? If not, whatever, at least I have my lights. But I would like to run all four if possible.

[opto]

There is really no Idea running all four when using highbeam.

Because if you have the driving lights on when in highbeam they will light up just in front of the car and it appears as you have a better light and have better vision

BUT what happens is that it "blindens" you and lowers your ability to see further away

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

not really sure what you are saying. I don't want the hi-beams on when they aren't supposed to be. But when I switch the high-beams on, I want the low beams to remain on as well. Late night driving through a mountain highway, the low beams will do a lot for lighting up the sides of road due to their position. I know there is a way to do it, and that guys have done it and reported that it does increase visibility, due to more light.

[DickWells]

Sitting here at the laptop, I can't quite visualize the whole scheme, but I know what you want, and that it can, of course, be done. I think that you'll need a four-way relay to do this, or maybe two relays to run your two different curcuits (beams). From what I can see somewhere back behind my eyes, you're probably not able to separate your beams with just the one single action relay. I know that the more astute members can tell you right off the top of their heads. Just nead to have one of them see your post, and you'll get some better help.
Good luck.
Dick Wells:)

[DmaxMaverick]

You don't need any special wiring or relays to get "all 4 on". Only a diode, a place to mount it, and some wire. However, I do not recommend this, although a bunch of folks have done it. The OEM headlamp switch is overtaxed as it is (just like the rest of us....).

JK sells a "Headlamp Booster Kit" on his site. It includes a complete harness, relays, and the diode for all 4 on (an option to use it or not, remove it when you don't need all 4). I have the kit on my 2001, and it works as advertised. The headlamp power is relayed from battery power, only the relays are powered by the headlamp switch, and each headlamp set has its own ground. The result is brighter light, less load on the switch, and fewer, less noticeable power dips (dimming lights when RPM's drop or acc's are turned on). Very neat and professional kit, and easy to install.

As far as the light distribution goes, I also live/drive in the mountains. You can't have enough light! High beams alone won't light up the shoulder and curves, but the low beams do. The best of both worlds. Driving lights and fog lamps (unless it's foggy) are pretty much worthless.

[opto]

OK, I know what you want to do and it's really easy to do it, if you'd like I can help you with a schematic

In my previous post: with driving lights I really meant low beams.

However, I still think that using low beams, light up to "near" the vehicle and that you would be better off with some auxiliary lights pointing right and left a little further away (than the low beams) if that's what your after

[DennisG01]

you would be better off with some auxiliary lights pointing right and left a little

That's what I was thinking. Just put a set of aftermarket driving lights on their own switch. The bottom of the front bumper has some nice holes that you can use as mounting points. If their light pattern doesn't spread out as much as you think, just angle them a bit. This way you can still use your highs/lows as normal. A set of $35 lights from Autozone has been working fine for me - about 2 years, now.

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

I already have a relay on each circuit. So, ya I am missing something.

But now I am not sure. I would probably be easier to hook up some aftermarket lights, but I don't know where I would put them.

The air intake holes already have some marker lights mounted in them.

Wondering where else I could mount some A/M's without them looking to out of place.

[opto]

http://www.hagberga.com/xljus.jpg

[a5150nut]

With the composite headlights you can get ice covering the high beams while running on lows. Hit the brights and it all goes away. I just put a relay on the wire to the bright side, ran power from the battery to the relay that powers the low beams while brights are on. I think Kragens used to sell as a kit. I looked at what they had and just bought a relay and some wire. Might not be as sophisticated as Kennedy's, but it works. :rolleyes: